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2G Crank but no start after head rebuild

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ishnish

10+ Year Contributor
940
152
Jun 26, 2011
Modesto, California
Hey guys, so I finally completed my head rebuild on my car. It's sat for four years and I finally got it back and had the funds to do these things. I should be posting up a build profile soon as well. Anyway, everything went great with it and I double, triple, even quadruple checked things to make sure I wouldn't have any regrets. I'm ocd about perfectionism and on top of that this was my first time ever pulling apart things on a car so I took every safety measure possible to make for the smoothest process.

Yesterday, I finally got everything buttoned up, put fluids in, and then cranked her up the first time in 4 years. Cranked a bit to prime the pump first with some electrical connections disconnected. Then plugged it all back and cranked it to start. Nothing but just cranks. Any idea what it could be?

So my checklist is as follows:

- I checked to make sure the pump was working. Through ecmlink I was able to activate the fuel pump and it was functioning just fine.

- The fuel filter was replaced with a new oem one.

- I did undo the return line at the end of the fuel rail and it for sure had pressure as fuel started to squirt out before I could even fully loosen the second bolt holding the fpr.

- spark plugs and wires were brand new. Checked to see if the car was firing by checking the spark plug end of the wires. It was.

- I made sure NUMEROUS times that my car was times perfectly correct. I took every precaution to check the marks and they were correct, I even counted the teeth of the old timing belt and set the new one exactly the same and held it down with zip ties, wrapped the rest around the.other lower sprockets, and when I tensioned the belt, everything sat correct. Nothing was off a tooth.

- It definitely SOUNDS like it's getting compression. I have no sure way of checking because I don't have the tools to check. But anyway, the car had perfect compression on all four cylinders when I first stopped driving it. It was never an issue.

- I plugged in ecmlink and I have no CELs. Everything is fine.

- I verified that the CAS is sitting correctly for sure.

- Messed with the spark plug wiring orders by using the order I had last which is the EPROM ecu order and then the stock 2g order. Both did the exact same thing, just caused the car to crank the same way. No difference.

What wasn't checked yet :

- I guess you can add compression on the list because I never checked as of now because I have no way of doing so. A mechanic I knew checked it a couple of years back when I stopped driving it and said it was perfect though. That's all I can go by. I'm just positive that isn't it though. It even sounds like it when the car cranks .It sounds like it really wants to start but just wont.

- I am not able to pull the spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel on the bottom because I was borrowing spark plug removal sockets and I don't have access to them anymore.

Some extra notes:

Because I mentioned that the car sat for some years, I did drain the gas tank and ran the fuel pump until all the fuel came out. It got to the point where it would only very occasionally have pulses of very little fuel coming out so I stopped it at that point because I figured that's enough and it was practically empty. Is it possible that the car is still using that old fuel? I put in two gallons of new fuel and I would think it's enough to dilute the old fuel (whatever little is left of it if any at all). The thing is, I did not drop the fuel tank and clean it out and all that. I really didn't think it'd be necessary and don't have the tools needed to do so. I have to work on my car outside because I don't have a garage and only jackstands that I borrowed and a floorjack.

I also plugged in ecmlink while cranking and logged it. Everything was practically flat on the graph other than just the injectors which were pulsing. The injector duty cycle was 3.5%. Should it have been higher??

I'm honestly stumped guys. I'll try remembering any extra details that I left out but any ideas as to what's wrong?

Thank you so much
 
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Okay so I found out my Idle Switch is inside of my tps. I'm not sure if any of this points to my ecu possibly being bad or just an issue with my tps or something. It's definitely not the battery because it was new when I first started to crank it. It's just starting to die now because of all the cranking.
 
Thought I would update:

My buddy has a friend who let me borrow his ECU to try it on my car and see if it made a difference. I plugged it up and WALLAH! Started right up. This tells me that it was definitely something with my ecu.

Only thing is, his friend's ecu was tuned for 750cc injectors and I'm not sure if this had something to do with it or not but my car was idling at over 2k rpm...

Any idea as to why? I screwed in my biss screw all the way in and the idle lowered to 2k flat... Still VERY high. Could it be something with the ISC? I swapped in the one from my 2g into that of my 1g nt tb that I put in. I guess there's an o-ring in there but I didn't change it out. I also installed an FIAV bypass but I doubt it should make THAT much of a difference.
 
So which ECU did you get from your buddy's friend?

The IPS operation is critical part of adjusting the TPS. The adjustment is based on where the IPS switches.

Make sure the throttle butterfly is all the way closed and that the cable isn't pulling it open.
 
It is another eprom ECU that was socketed. I had to use his chip though because my chip wouldn't work with it.

I thought that I don't have to worry about any idle position switch because I'm using a 2g tps. So how would I do this then?

I'll check the throttle plate but I'm pretty sure it's closed Because a few days ago I checked it. I'll do so again.
 
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So which ECU did you get from your buddy's friend?

The IPS operation is critical part of adjusting the TPS. The adjustment is based on where the IPS switches.

Make sure the throttle butterfly is all the way closed and that the cable isn't pulling it open.

Also, a little weird but my air filter is making a super loud high pitched sound. Idk what it is but I'm pretty sure it's coming from the air filter.
 
It could be a bolt fell into the intake tube and is scratching the intake blade on the turbo, or as drastic as the turbo oil feed line is not connected or blocked

High idle is caused by too much air and not enough fuel. It could be a vacuum leak. Usually a vacuum leak makes a hissing noise you can hear, I usually find them by wiggling hose connections around the intake to see if the hissing noise gets worse. You can also spray brake cleaner or carb cleaner around the intake area to see if the idle drops when you spray a specific spot. Usually for me on a fresh build I can hear an injector seal leak and it cures itself when I wiggle the fuel injector.


I would take off the intake tube and peer into the intake blade of the turbo to check on everything. Usually using your phone to take a picture of the intake blade is the easiest way to inspect it

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I will do this asap thank you! I have a huge feeling it's an injector seal. They're super stiff and not soft like how they're supposed to be when new. As far as the high pitched noise, idk. But I'll look It over next time I have The free time.
 
It is another eprom ECU that was socketed. I had to use his chip though because my chip wouldn't work with it.

I thought that I don't have to worry about any idle position switch because I'm using a 2g tps. So how would I do this then?

I'll check the throttle plate but I'm pretty sure it's closed Because a few days ago I checked it. I'll do so again.

Something seems to be wrong with your ECU then. Pack it off to ECMTuning and have them check it out.

The IPS on the 1G TB is only going to be acting as the throttle stop with the 2G TPS but you still have to adjust the TPS correctly for the ECU to see the IPS inside working correctly. I'd adjust it the same way you do on a 2G by inserting a feeler gauge between the 1G IPS and the pulley then adjusting the TPS to where the internal IPS just switches off making sure then it switches back on when you take the feeler gauge out.
 
Something seems to be wrong with your ECU then. Pack it off to ECMTuning and have them check it out.

The IPS on the 1G TB is only going to be acting as the throttle stop with the 2G TPS but you still have to adjust the TPS correctly for the ECU to see the IPS inside working correctly. I'd adjust it the same way you do on a 2G by inserting a feeler gauge between the 1G IPS and the pulley then adjusting the TPS to where the internal IPS just switches off making sure then it switches back on when you take the feeler gauge out.

Yup I sent it out 2-3 days ago. I hope the estimate won't be too much..

Thank you, I hope that is not too hard to do. I found a thread that you were involved in with someone explaining the steps of adjusting for a 2g. I'll try it out. But first I will wait on my ecu just to make sure I can check everything off the list of possibilities. The ecu I tried apparently has something on the board burnt that controls the isc motor from what I was told.
 
Hey guys, just an update long over due:

My ecu that I sent over to link came back and I was told they I had no issues whatsoever. What did end up starting my car though was my friends stock injectors. Any time I put mine in it Just wouldn't start. So I'm keeping his.

Same problem with the super high idle on my car though. I've been out of the country the past month so that's why I haven't been able to work on my car. First thing tomorrow though, I'm changing my ISC O ring since the one I have on right now is idk how old (ever since I bought the car in 2011).

Second thing I'm gonna do is a boost leak test.

Third thing will be to switch out my injector seals for brand new OEM ones (because I'm positive they're leaking)

And then I will get on to the adjustment of my TPS, SAS, and BISS.

Is there ANY WAY I can set my TPS without using a multimeter??

Thank you
 
Yeah just observe when it is at 0% on link

Buy a cheap air compressor from harbor freight, $40 or so, and do a boost leak test

I put a 1g gasket on my 2g and caused my car to idle at 1500rpms.

The boost leak test will find your problem

I'm sorry but what am I looking at on link for the 0%?? I found a thread post that I was gonna use. Could hi verify if this would be a good method for adjusting my tps without a multimeter?:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-adjustment.457984/#post-153212008

All I have is a tire 120v inflator and I hope that's good enough as funds are very tight right now for me.

I used the right stuff for the tb gasket for my 1g nt tb because so many people recommended it. I really hope that isn't the problem because it's literally the only gasket in the entire engine bay where I substituted the right stuff in place of a gasket LOL.

I'm definitely gonna check for vacuum leaks like you suggested long ago because sure that might be it.
 
Is there ANY WAY I can set my TPS without using a multimeter??
I forget at this point, but if you have DSMLink it will happily be your Multimeter for you. Log the IPS switch and TPS voltage in real time.
 
Thank you! Being that I'm a 2g, this is perfect.

It rained all day yesterday and is raining all day today as well (plus my classes start today) so I will report back tomorrow on how this all goes.
 
Guys this is killing me.

UPDATE:

Ended up doing a BLT and I had HUGE leaks from the FIAV and my injectors. Wheb I put my head over my injectors to check for leaks, it felt like an ac system blowing in my face LOL. Anyway, I fixed both of those issues and no leaks now. I installed an FIAV bypass plate and the bottom part of the plate that sandwiches with the FIAV was metal-to-metal (whoops) so I fixed that by sealing it up and that fixed that leak.

My ISC checks out perfectly fine with all the coils so that eliminated that.

Being that I am installing the 1g nt tb, I'm not sure if that's what's causing my issues with idle. Anyway, I adjusted my sas like how the Manuel says to adjust it (screw in SAS until it touches the throttle lever, then turn 1 1/4 turn) and from there I adjusted my tps. Got TPS Volts to 0.63. I checked for continuity on pins 3-4 and adjusted the TPS VERY slightly until the exact point where continuity was lost.

Here come the problem. At this point, checking pins 2-4, I should be at 400-1000 mV. Instead, I'm at nothing.. Also no matter how much I turned the TPS, I could NEVER get my Idle Switch value on ECMLink (IdleSw) to 1. It did not budge from 0.

Starting my car, it idles at 2k rpm all over again:banghead:

But messing with it more and going back to adjust my SAS all over again, I got my throttle position to 0%, got my TPS volts to 0.63 and my IdleSw to (you guessed it) 0. You obviously know my dilemma with the dang idle switch. Anyway, with that, I checked my "Enable TPS adjustments" on link and put TPS offset to 0 and TPS Scale to 100% and I also checked the "enable idle switch operation" box. This finally got my idle switch to get the value of 1 with the car idling. Car is idling right around 750ish.

Sounds all dandy, but the problem is I cannot for the life of me get my ISC position to 30!! No matter what I do. I have it screwed all the way in and it sits at 19 but the car idles right at 750.

You guys think I have a bad tps?
 
Scratch a lot of what I said. I'm actually in a worse position that I thought. Every time I tap the gas pedal, the rpm goes up to 2k almost and stays there. Throttle goes up to 4% or so and gets stuck at that value.

Not sure if this means anything but when I shut the car off and do the same thing. The throttle doesn't get stuck or anything. It goes right back to 0%
 
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