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Newbie with a 95 gsx. Need help with air filter

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elitespecialkid

Probationary Member
14
0
Oct 20, 2011
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Hi guys, i just picked up a 95 gsx about a week ago. It has issues with the airfilter, and i'm trying to figure out what the guy that had it before us did to the air filter. i have no idea if the entire air system is stock or not, its missing the air filter housing, and it has what looks like a k&n filter on it, but i can't find the same filter anywhere. it bolts on to what seems to be the stock housing for the air sensors. Need help or suggestions on what to do. i'd perfer to just clean the filter i have or to find a replacement of the same. Thanks guys, and i'm looking forward to enjoying my dsm!
 
Sorry, the car does not idle very well,if at all with the air filter on, but as soon as you take it off, the car idles fairly clean. i got the car for $2000 and it seems very clean, but looks like the previous owner wasn't the best with maitence. It needs the oil changed, and some other little stuff like that, so i'm just going the whole 9 yards and doing plugs, oil & oil filter , fuel filter, etc, etc. The air filter is fairly dirty and i didn't want to just start washing it and completely destroy it. I did go to the k&n website, and couldn't find the same air filter or similar one that bolts on to the sensor housing. Thanks guys,
Mark
 
Well the filter is probably a cone filter hose clamped onto an adapter that bolts to the stock mass air flow meter, which is that stock air meter you were talking about. If you can go to an auto parts store and get another K&N of the same size it should be able to go right on that adapter that should be there. Also check to see if the blow off valve is recirculated which if it is not could be another reason for the rough idle.
Hope these tips help you!
 
the filter in the link is not the same as the one i have, and the one that was on my car doesn't use an adapter. it just goes straight on to the housing. i believe the waste gate is recirculating.
 
You mean the blow off valve is recirculated?It's easy to tell if there is a pipe from the blow off to the intake pipe.If you could upload a photo of what exactly your looking for we can help you better,and if someone just hacked a filter over the maf i would fix that.
 
sounds like the previous owner didnt take care of it

The car looks stunning, thats the part he took care of. i'll have to double check if it is recirculated. Sorry, i am new to turbo's. The extent of my mechanic work is on dads old chevy pick up and my old dune buggy, which is a two stroke. Also relized that there is too much oil in it, so my next thing will be draining and changing it. Now with the air filter off, it idles, but pretty rough. very very low rpms and feels like its missing. i do have spark from all 4 wires, and i did put in 4 new plugs right before i fired it up. My second cylinder has a compression of 94 i belive (did the test a few days ago) when in the higher rpms (2500's and up) but my gauge would show zero just idling. I have a buddy who was helping with the car that was a former mechanic, and he thinks it may have a sticky or stuck ring. But, i have had the car idling fairly clean at around 1000rpm, and it didn't feel like it had a miss a few random times when i've started it. Any guesses or suggestions?
 
On the K&N, just buy the cleaner kit and follow the instructions, it's really easy.

On the bad idle problem, try unplugging your Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) and see what happens.
 
You said there is to much oil in it make sure it's just oil and not other fluids too like radiator,gas etc..That compression on #2 is low what was the others at?I would also suggest doing a boost leak test im sure you will find a heap of them.

All the other cylinders were in the 130's. The gas guage is at about a quarter tank, haven't checked coolant yet. I will also try unplugging the mass air sensor and see what it does. thanks guys
 
My second cylinder has a compression of 94 i belive (did the test a few days ago) when in the higher rpms (2500's and up) but my gauge would show zero just idling.

I'm sorry, but are you saying here that you were doing a compression test with the vehicle running...? Because if that's the case, you may want to do some research on how to do a proper compression test.
 
If your compression is that low than something is wrong. Make sure you ont have any coolant in the oil, is the oil a milky color? And you dont do a compression test with the car running. You pull the wired off of theplugs, take one plug out at a time and crank it over untill he guage stops moving. It generally takes a few cranks but no more than 4. Read the guage and record the number. I usually let the guage sit a few. minutes to make sure its holding. And do you have any dtc's present?
 
If your compression is that low than something is wrong. Make sure you ont have any coolant in the oil, is the oil a milky color? And you dont do a compression test with the car running. You pull the wired off of theplugs, take one plug out at a time and crank it over untill he guage stops moving. It generally takes a few cranks but no more than 4. Read the guage and record the number. I usually let the guage sit a few. minutes to make sure its holding. And do you have any dtc's present?

Incorrect, this way you can fry sensitive components. I've seen distributors and coil packs fail from doing this. I dont know if it's some kind of feedback due to the spark not traveling as its supposed to or what not, but i wouldn't take the chance.

You want to pull the ECU fuse, and fuel pump as well if applicable, then remove wires and plugs one at a time to administer the test.

With the gauge hooked up, and the throttle wide open you crank the car until the gauge stops moving. Normally it stops around 4-5, but as long as it's still building compression continue to crank, otherwise your reading will be off.

I normally either lay my gauge on my valve cover sideways so i can see it from inside the car, or have a buddy watch it for me to tell me when it stops.
 
Well not to rain on the K&N parade here but i did replace my K&N which was 60$ from O'Reilly and they had to order, with a MAS adapter and a Spectre cone filter. My car does run noticeably smoother and it did help lean my fuel issues out. I from trials and such have noticed if you are going open intake (i.e. cone filters) then the brand doesn't really matter. More the material, price, and durability.

Also on other issues, make sure the guy before you didn't mess with the Calibration screw on the bottom of your MAS this can cause serious issues with your idle and running if it has been moved at all. Also you can start your car let it get to temp (fan kicks on) and unplug your TPS. If nothing seems to change it could be because your ECU is in "limp" mode because of bad components. Others please chime in!

But i wish you luck and welcome, if anyone can help you with your car its these guys here.
 
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I finally did find out that my airfilter is a spectre. I bought the k&n cleaner kit to work on the air filter. The car now has low oil pressure, it looks like its leaking out of a line from the bottom of the turbo into what i believe is an oil pan on the bottom of the engine and several spots from the bottom end of the exhaust manifold and the pipe towards the beginning (engine end) of the pipe. The oil pressure seems to run normal (middle of the stock guage) once i get past roughly 2500 rpm. I also did my compression tests with a mechanic. He said to try it running just for kicks and giggles. to be fair, it did reveal that cylinder #2 has some sort of issue.
 
The spectre filters are kinda cheap paper ones.I think your talkin about the turbo oil retun line.Get new gaskets for it make sure the bolts are tighten properly and no leaks, I hate oil leaks.
 
The spectre filters are kinda cheap paper ones.I think your talkin about the turbo oil retun line.Get new gaskets for it make sure the bolts are tighten properly and no leaks, I hate oil leaks.

Okay, should i try and get the gaskets for the leaking exhaust parts as well?
 
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