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Newbie with a 95 gsx. Need help with air filter

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elitespecialkid

Probationary Member
14
0
Oct 20, 2011
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Hi guys, i just picked up a 95 gsx about a week ago. It has issues with the airfilter, and i'm trying to figure out what the guy that had it before us did to the air filter. i have no idea if the entire air system is stock or not, its missing the air filter housing, and it has what looks like a k&n filter on it, but i can't find the same filter anywhere. it bolts on to what seems to be the stock housing for the air sensors. Need help or suggestions on what to do. i'd perfer to just clean the filter i have or to find a replacement of the same. Thanks guys, and i'm looking forward to enjoying my dsm!
 
If you have not done any maintenance or don't even remember the last time its been done, it won't hurt to change anything.
 
If you have not done any maintenance or don't even remember the last time its been done, it won't hurt to change anything.

Will do if i can get all the parts tomorrow, don't know if any of the local parts stores will be open tomorrow by the time i get off work
 
Two things. First off check your oil pump, where your oil filter goes for some odd reason under weird conditions that seems to come lose. Also if you go to O'Reilly you can get a turbo gasket set for that car for around 30-40$ If you don't have a O'Reilly, go to RockAuto Auto Parts very cheap prices and reliable parts all which are OE. Replace every single one of those. I dont know if it comes with crush rings or not if not they have some universal copper crush rings there too for a decent price you can pick up and replace all of those as well. Make sure your sensor plug for your oil is hooked up properly and not just hanging by a thread. Exhaust should be the last thing you fix at this time seeing how you are weak in cylinder 2 and pissing oil.

Good luck!
 
Alright, well after looking over everything, i'm going to try and look in the tubo and see if its leaking oil there. i have a feeling its leaking somewhere around there. If not, no harm done, and i'll keep looking, i will check the oil filter and see if its leaking there first. Thanks guys, hopfully i can figure this thing out. it started idling better. i ran seafoam in the oil to try and unstick a ring in the second cylinder.
 
Ok to do your compression accurately you need to unplug all your wires and remove all your plugs. as to the problem with ruining distributors or coils due to spark feedback just unplug your coil or your crank sensors which determines spark. Run the gauge on each cylinder to it stops, like they say usually around 4-6 times. usually 4. If you end up with low compression in number two still do a cylinder wash in it. Which is take some motor oil or tranny fluid and pour just a lil bit in the cylinder and trun it over alil bit. Like 6-7 times put some rags over the cylinder to keep it from splashing fluid everywhere. And see if that increases your compression. If not and you think you have sticky ring issues, turn it over till the cylinder is near the top but not all the way and pour some tranny fluid in it and let it sit over night. Then next day turn it out like when you did doing the cylinder wash. If you still have cylinder compression issues you may want to have a block test done on it to make sure you don't have a blown head gasket. As for the oil leak find out where it is and if its coming from one of the turbo lines or any screw on line undo the line and wrap the line threads in teflon tape or use ultra grey silicon on the threads on that should stop any leaking. Just be extra careful screwing it back in as to not to strip the line as it will be hell to fix if you do. Don't take the turbo apart thinking its leaking internally though as if it were the car would smoke and plus the turbo is pressed together so not really any need in trying to separate it. But like dude said go to the parts store and buy that gasket kit and replace the what gaskets you can. Hope this helps.
 
Ok to do your compression accurately you need to unplug all your wires and remove all your plugs. as to the problem with ruining distributors or coils due to spark feedback just unplug your coil or your crank sensors which determines spark. Run the gauge on each cylinder to it stops, like they say usually around 4-6 times. usually 4. If you end up with low compression in number two still do a cylinder wash in it. Which is take some motor oil or tranny fluid and pour just a lil bit in the cylinder and trun it over alil bit. Like 6-7 times put some rags over the cylinder to keep it from splashing fluid everywhere. And see if that increases your compression. If not and you think you have sticky ring issues, turn it over till the cylinder is near the top but not all the way and pour some tranny fluid in it and let it sit over night. Then next day turn it out like when you did doing the cylinder wash. If you still have cylinder compression issues you may want to have a block test done on it to make sure you don't have a blown head gasket. As for the oil leak find out where it is and if its coming from one of the turbo lines or any screw on line undo the line and wrap the line threads in teflon tape or use ultra grey silicon on the threads on that should stop any leaking. Just be extra careful screwing it back in as to not to strip the line as it will be hell to fix if you do. Don't take the turbo apart thinking its leaking internally though as if it were the car would smoke and plus the turbo is pressed together so not really any need in trying to separate it. But like dude said go to the parts store and buy that gasket kit and replace the what gaskets you can. Hope this helps.

Please do not use teflon tape, or silicone on anything that threads into anything having to do with the passage of oil. If you by chance get a piece that squeezes into the line, and gets caught somewhere its not supposed to, there goes your turbo, or even worse your motor.

They make a special paste to put on threads for applications like this that wont hurt oil/hydraulic systems. Find it and use it, it's cheap insurance.

The reason i say to unplug the ecu and fuel pump fuse is because that stops both spark, and fuel, both of which are bad for a compression test.
 
Please do not use teflon tape, or silicone on anything that threads into anything having to do with the passage of oil. If you by chance get a piece that squeezes into the line, and gets caught somewhere its not supposed to, there goes your turbo, or even worse your motor.

They make a special paste to put on threads for applications like this that wont hurt oil/hydraulic systems. Find it and use it, it's cheap insurance.

The reason i say to unplug the ecu and fuel pump fuse is because that stops both spark, and fuel, both of which are bad for a compression test.

If done properly you actually don't have to worry about any of that as you only use enough silicone to fill the threads which is not enough to push into the passages to block anything. And neither silicone nor teflon tape is strong enough to mess up any engine component. If you use teflon tape and tightly wrap the threads only a max of three times it has no way of getting in the way of the passages as your only taping the threads. Of done both methods on many cars and not had a single problem with any. I've worked on cars for a living since i was sixteen. My dad who is 63 has been with cars since he was 17, i work with my brother who is two years older and has been doing it for three more years than i have would say the same my oldest brother is an excellent mechanic and specializes in the chrysler turbo cars and owns four of them and is thirty and has done car work since before my age as well would do them same. as my second oldest brother who is a honda nut and has been working on cars since about my age and is 26 now would also agree. Just depends on if you do it properly or over due it. If done properly you willl never have any problems with it. As I've done many times with zero problems resulting from it.
 
If done properly you actually don't have to worry about any of that as you only use enough silicone to fill the threads which is not enough to push into the passages to block anything. And neither silicone nor teflon tape is strong enough to mess up any engine component. If you use teflon tape and tightly wrap the threads only a max of three times it has no way of getting in the way of the passages as your only taping the threads. Of done both methods on many cars and not had a single problem with any. I've worked on cars for a living since i was sixteen. My dad who is 63 has been with cars since he was 17, i work with my brother who is two years older and has been doing it for three more years than i have would say the same my oldest brother is an excellent mechanic and specializes in the chrysler turbo cars and owns four of them and is thirty and has done car work since before my age as well would do them same. as my second oldest brother who is a honda nut and has been working on cars since about my age and is 26 now would also agree. Just depends on if you do it properly or over due it. If done properly you willl never have any problems with it. As I've done many times with zero problems resulting from it.

While I'm sure you may never have had a problem with it, using a tool not meant for the job is not doing it properly.
 
While I'm sure you may never have had a problem with it, using a tool not meant for the job is not doing it properly.

well if can get the paste you can use it and that's cool. I'm not saying anything against what you said to use just saying I've done it that way many a times without any problems. Either way works dude.
 
So, i haven't been able to look at the car in the last few days between work and being in the negitives and what not. I'm just trying to guage my opinions here, but if the turbo is leaking, should i put a new turbo on? or rebuild it? Also what would be a good way to service the the parts of the turbo? i obviously need a few gaskets for the return lines and such. Also, it holds its oil pressure when the car is cold and idles quite clean. Is it just that the oil is thicker and everything hasn't expanded with heat? thanks
 
Alright, oil filter was a little on the loose side, so i tightened but no difference. Is it possible that it could lose all and i mean all of its oil pressure of of the return line off of the bottom of the turbo to the oilpan. If not, then i think it might have blown a bearing or seal.

Anyone?
 
Common issue with those setups is the oil lines is clumpy from hard boost turn offs. This is also a way to get a lot of build up in the oil lines causing weak flow or even sometimes no flow. When doing the gaskets it is a good idea to flush those lines and take a look inside. If the turbo is gone the best way to deal with this is a new one or an already rebuilt one. You can get a new 16G for around 600 or a used for around 200-300, the price to rebuild a T25 properly is around 750-900. In all honestly i like going used rebuilt because it is already heat treated from being around all the heat and there for has less issues IMO.

In addition if you have a blown bearing your shaft for your turbo will have in and out play from the cold side. If you have blown turbo seals you will have plenty of oil in your intercooler and lines. This wont cause a lot of oil pressure issues. And about the oil filter being lose, be sure it is your filter and not your oil pump.
 
I have decided to sell the car, i'm selling it to a friend who can do more with it than i, and i will keep my eyes out for another eclipse. I perfer the looks of the eclipse over the talon (no offense to the talon fans) and any other car that competes with the eclipses is stuipidly expensive in my area. So i suppose case closed.
 
LOL they are the exact same car.. bout the only thing different is maybe the bumper covers and tail lights...

I know they are, but thats what i don't like about the talon is the front bumper. Don't know why, i just wasn't a fan. I just perfer the eclipse over the talon, no offense LOL
 
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