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newbie! need help with stalling problem

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DSMprotege91

Probationary Member
5
0
Jan 25, 2012
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
hey im so new to this dsm thing, just got my first one which is a 1996 eclipse gst. i bought it cheap off a friend and it needs work but the biggest concern is that it stalls out when i give too much throttle. if im cruising like city speed it wont stall but once i hit the highway and i let go off the gas like in between shifts the rpms drop quick like it wants to stall and once i let go of the clutch to go it'll be fine. then it starts idling really high at like 1500 and then drop to 900 for a few minutes and then shoot right back up to 1500-1600 few a few minutes again. really need help on this.

oh btw i know the greddy blow off valve is not recirculated im working on that and someone mentioned that it may have a boost leak which explains why i have no torque or power. some good advice and help would be amazing thanks.
 
It sounds like you know the answer, go to autozone. Buy some kind of thick hose and recirculate it.

If you have no tester, a simple way to find boost leaks (not 100% of course) is to simply listen for hissing air.
 
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You would be surprised what a good boost leak test will show and help man.
My friends car was idling at like 3000 rpm and
We couldn't figure out why.
He had 3 huge leaks once we fixed them his idle droped 1700 RPM!
 
Thanks you guys. I know a non recirculated bov doesn't help this situation, not the first you're I had a stalking problem because of it big did this is my first dsm I have no clue but would a non recirculated bov really screw the idle on these things this much?!?!?!?!
 
Not trying to be mean, but you could have just used the search option and figured it out in less than five minutes. Then you'd know that not recirculating is what kills 4g63's. It makes them run like crap. Well 99.9% of them. Some actually aren't too bad. There are so many threads about the exact same thing. There's a right up somewhere around here to make a boost leak tool and how to test your system.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
 
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There are only 2 times you should vent to atmosphere, if you have a GM maf or speed density. Because with a standard maf, you losing air thats been metered. I had good luck with my 1st dsm venting to atmosphere as it was a 5speed and did great for me. However, my auto now could not vent to atmosphere as the BOV opens at off throttle times and the car would run like crap on the highway. Recirculate it.
 
Thanks you guys have been a lot of help. I'm going to recirculate the bov and I'm going to replace the factory intercooler. I didn't some looking around underneath and found my factory intercooler all torn up. You can hear the hissing from the turbo trying to spool right from the intercooler. My friend had an OEM 1g intercooler sitting around so he just gave it to me. Gonna mod it to make it for till I can get a front mount.
 
had same problem, same fix. just looked in the frequently answered questions threads. there it was! easy fix.
 
Ok so I'm sorry about the thread I know I should have searched harder but I was just getting aggravated but I recirculated and it runs great but it still feels kinda sluggish. I feel like I should have a hell a lot more torque. If I'm wrong about these things having torque someone tell me please. And the idle is weird now too. Sometimes it stays at normal idle then all of a sudden idle will jump up to 1200 and back and forth. It's weird ### I never seen this before.
 
The idle surge may be a vacuum leak on the manifold. Extra air sneaking in via cracked vacuum lines, PCV lines, brake booster hose, the emissions nipples on the throttle body, and the throttle shaft seals will cause idle to jump up like you backed out the base idle adjustment screw. Boost leaks also cause weird idle issues and poor performance. These are pretty powerful cars, even at stock, compared to most. I would bet you have a lot of little leaks and crappy maintenance issues to deal with if the previous owner thought venting the BOV to atmosphere was a good idea...

There's a possibility it could be your idle adjustment control valve on the bottom of the throttle body also, but you should make sure your leaky pipes are fixed first.
 
Ok well I finally was able to boost leak test my car after finally getting some free time and I am leaking and from the OEM intercooler. The fins on the side closes to the intercooler inlet are shot. I knew buying this car was going to give me some work since I got it cheap and the guy I bought it from had no idea what he was doing with cars. I'm no car newbie, I work at a dealership, just never worked on a dsm EVER!!!! So I don't know really much about any ecu, mechanical or electrical problems that could exist in this vehicle. That's usually what I do first when studying cars.

But anyways, I can slowly start to feel more power coming out if this thing, its like all the despot stuff that it rode off of is finally starting to clear up. I can actually pull out of first and go back in my seat. So I wanna replaced the intercooler but don't wanna stick too much money into this thing because I don't plan on doing anything big with it. If anyone can give some pointers as to what I can do to substitute it then let me know. I do have a 1g OEM intercooler but I was told it wouldn't fit.
 
^^Yup. +1

That's what I did. Stuff a Supra MK4 side mount in the IC pocket and you'll be set. It is rated for more HP than most DSM's ever get to, isn't hard to modify to fit, and does and EXCELLENT job of cooling things off.
 
i really want a sleeper too but just browsing through the "how to" link.. intimidating. i guess an air to water intercooler is even more work though.
and no one builds smic kits for these cars anymnore right?
 
Supra IC fitting is EASY. Don't let a walkthrough make you think its any more complicated than flipping around one of the end tanks, making sure it is sealed, stuffing it in the IC pocket, trimming and screening the wheel shroud so air gets through better, and maybe trimming away a little metal for the piping. It's really that simple. The plumbing to and from it doesn't really change, except the slight angle at the inlet down low. It is an afternoon swap.

The water to air IC is the same way. It sounds intimidating... It isn't really that bad. I will be switching to a W2A flow through IC when I install my 20g. 2.5 gal tank in the trunk, pump pulling from tank to IC, IC flows to small radiator in old IC pocket, radiator flows to tank. Plumb the turbo to the IC and IC to throttle body as short as you can, and stick the BOV on the pipe somewhere. Easy as that. :D
 
There are only 2 times you should vent to atmosphere, if you have a GM maf or speed density. Because with a standard maf, you losing air thats been metered. I had good luck with my 1st dsm venting to atmosphere as it was a 5speed and did great for me. However, my auto now could not vent to atmosphere as the BOV opens at off throttle times and the car would run like crap on the highway. Recirculate it.

Sounds reasonable! I'll follow your advice for sure. :thumb:







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