new motor low oil pressure

[b00stAdict]

im sure this has been answer multiple times and i HAVE researched for hours but i haven't got the answer im looking for as my situation is a little different.

So i have a BRAND NEW MOTOR, new bearings (main and rod) new pistons, new rings, polished cranks, bored .030 over. rebuilt head (stock rebuild with 3g revised lifters), new oil pump, bs eliminator kit, oil filter housing IS ported, arp head studs, ported 2g ex manifold, NEW Big 16g turbo, polished o2 housing w/ external dump stage 4 pressure plate w/ unsprung 6 puck disk, 3" turbo back exhaust w/ greddy muffler... i think thats about it i might be forgetting something.. but i got the main stuff.

Either way i have about 1200 miles on everything and my STOCK oil pressure gauge reads low but not all the way to the left but my AFTER market gauge reads near zero after its at normal operating temps.. literally at zero sometimes.

While cruising in 5th gear at 3k rpms its near 60ish psi, 4th gear at 5k rpms its near 80-100psi depending on wot or not. using 10w30 NON synthetic right now as i've only got 1200 miles on the motor.

Im just curious if this is normal or if i should be worried... do i have a faulty gauge? my wires are connected well to the gauge so i know its not that.

It runs PERFECTLY, runs smooth as can be, im only at 10psi right now because i haven't got around to installing my eprom ecu, maf-t, and injectors, along with my fuel pump and re-wire. im waiting to get 3k miles on the motor to be on the safe side.

so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[kcs]

i dont know if it will help but you might check the connection at the fuel pump i have alot of problems with the wire when it gets dirty or has a bad connection

i ment oil pump sorry

 

[evileagleawd]

I would be worried if my oil psi gauge was at zero during idle! First off where is your oil psi gauge tapped in at? Second what kind of oil psi gauge do you have? I would recommend using a mechanical gauge and tap it in at the oil filter housing! I would not go by the factory gauge my oil psi was at 100 and the factory gauge read low. Your 3k and 4k reading dont sound to bad!

 

[99gst_racer]

Is the aftermarket gauge mechanical or electric? And are you sure without doubt that it's reading accurately?

Is it possible that you ported the OFH too heavily?

 

[BoostedBeaver]

If you had 0 pressure, your motor would be trashed. The ideal HOT idle pressure is 15psi or so. More pressure does not equal more lubrication, so when you are hitting 100psi that is not good. More pressure means that the oil pump is having a harder time flowing oil through the motor in turn reducing flow. It is not always about pressure but flow as well.

With that being said, you should double check your gauge with another aftermarket unit. Check the wiring for the sender and gauge as well.

At 5k I am at 70-72psi and stay there until redline with no OFH porting. You say the filter housing is ported but how much? I would say too much, but you reach pressures of 100psi. At this point it really sounds like the gauge or wiring is your culprit. Where is the sender tapped in at????

Robert


Darn these guys are fast.

And are you sure without doubt that it's reading accurately?

Is it possible that you ported the OFH too heavily?

First off where is your oil psi gauge tapped in at?

What this says, again man yall are fast.

 

[b00stAdict]

i dont know if it will help but you might check the connection at the fuel pump i have alot of problems with the wire when it gets dirty or has a bad connection

i ment oil pump sorry

im almost positive my connections are good but i will double check for sure. thanks

I would be worried if my oil psi gauge was at zero during idle! First off where is your oil psi gauge tapped in at? Second what kind of oil psi gauge do you have? I would recommend using a mechanical gauge and tap it in at the oil filter housing! I would not go by the factory gauge my oil psi was at 100 and the factory gauge read low. Your 3k and 4k reading dont sound to bad!

my gauge is tapped in at the oil filter housing, same spot where the stock gauge went. and i wasn't going by the factory gauge i was just using it as reference. i have a "t" with both gauges connected but then eliminated the factory gauge. i do have an electrical gauge not a mechanical gauge just for the simple fact i didn't wanna run an oil line thru the fire wall god for bid it breaks i don't want oil all over my interior.

Is the aftermarket gauge mechanical or electric? And are you sure without doubt that it's reading accurately?

Is it possible that you ported the OFH too heavily?

im not 100% sure it's reading accurately, i just assumed it was since driving it, it reads some what normal readings, just at idle is worrying me. and i guess it is possible i ported it to big but i followed VFAQ instructions.

If you had 0 pressure, your motor would be trashed. The ideal HOT idle pressure is 15psi or so. More pressure does not equal more lubrication, so when you are hitting 100psi that is not good. More pressure means that the oil pump is having a harder time flowing oil through the motor in turn reducing flow. It is not always about pressure but flow as well.

With that being said, you should double check your gauge with another aftermarket unit. Check the wiring for the sender and gauge as well.

At 5k I am at 70-72psi and stay there until redline with no OFH porting. You say the filter housing is ported but how much? I would say too much, but you reach pressures of 100psi. At this point it really sounds like the gauge or wiring is your culprit. Where is the sender tapped in at????

Robert


Darn these guys are fast.






What this says, again man yall are fast.

This was another concern of mine that at WOT that it was near 100psi. i've heard it should be above 85ish-psi unless its cold. or cold start. i might order a new oil filter housing to be on the safe side.


** also i have an auto-meter gauge
thanks for all your responses.. let me know what you all think with the facts givin.

 

[BoostedBeaver]

I would check the cheap things first (gauge, sending unit, and wiring). If all else fails pull the OFH and go from there. Again, if you had or have 0 pressure, you will be building another motor soon, so get this fixed

 

[b00stAdict]

I would check the cheap things first (gauge, sending unit, and wiring). If all else fails pull the OFH and go from there. Again, if you had or have 0 pressure, you will be building another motor soon, so get this fixed

the thing is i know i have some oil pressure cause when it's running i pop the oil cap and it splashes oil everywhere so i know i have atleast 7psi or however much it takes to get oil into the head..

 

[evileagleawd]

i would get a mechanical gauge! Barrow one from a friend just to check your psi! You dont have to do a full install to check your psi! Just run the line and tape the gauge to the windshield! That what i would do on a customers car if they did not want to do a full install. Mechanical gauges are accurate from my experience! Better to be safe then sorry! Also yes your oil psi should not be hitting 100 psi so you may have trim a little off your oil psi control spring! I had to do it on both my engines i did balance shaft eliminations to! But first get a good reference first with a decent mechanical gauge!

 

[b00stAdict]

i would get a mechanical gauge! Barrow one from a friend just to check your psi! You don't have to do a full install to check your psi! Just run the line and tape the gauge to the windshield! That what i would do on a customers car if they did not want to do a full install. Mechanical gauges are accurate from my experience! Better to be safe then sorry! Also yes your oil psi should not be hitting 100 psi so you may have trim a little off your oil psi control spring! I had to do it on both my engines i did balance shaft eliminations to! But first get a good reference first with a decent mechanical gauge!

ill do that first thing in the morning thanks! do you have any pictures or a site reference about trimming the spring, wouldn't wanna cut to much off.

 

[MichaelSuch]

I've had bad luck with electrical oil pressure gauges. Had one prosport and it lasted a few months before it started reading bad. In my case it seemed to always stick and read 50 psi at idle. Try a mechanical gauge for sure. I do have a few questions. Who built the engine? What are the clearances on the engine? And was the BSE installed correctly (oil ports blocked off, etc..)? Are the oil squirters still in or were they blocked off?

 

[b00stAdict]

I've had bad luck with electrical oil pressure gauges. Had one prosport and it lasted a few months before it started reading bad. In my case it seemed to always stick and read 50 psi at idle. Try a mechanical gauge for sure. I do have a few questions. Who built the engine? What are the clearances on the engine? And was the BSE installed correctly (oil ports blocked off, etc..)? Are the oil squirters still in or were they blocked off?

hmm ill have to keep an eye out for that, and get myself a mechanical gauge for sure.
-my motor was built by this machine shop called "spit fire racing"
-im not exactly sure what the clearances are as i left all that up to them.
-i did install the BSE kit correctly put the bearings in without the port holes to block the oil ports off.
-and also the oil squirters are still in

 

[BoostedBeaver]

do you have any pictures or a site reference about trimming the spring, wouldn't wanna cut to much off.

I have heard (and seen threads here) about doing 1 coil at a time. This should be one of your last solutions as it will affect all pressure ranges to some effect. So say your idle psi is 10 the you cut one loop off I know that this will have a greater effect on the pressure up topaha but keep in mind it may have a minor impact on your idle pressure.

Robert

 

[BogusSVO]

Do you have lifter tic from the head at start up or warm idle? or any time that the oil gauge reads 0psi?

 

[b00stAdict]

Do you have lifter tic from the head at start up or warm idle? or any time that the oil gauge reads 0psi?

no lifter tick what so ever, zip, zero, nada.

so im kinda leaning towards faulty gauge or oil filter housing.. have yet to come across a mechanical gauge i may end up having to buy one

 

[Sumopower87]

Do you have lifter tic from the head at start up or warm idle? or any time that the oil gauge reads 0psi?

I'm going to take the chance to revive this thread. @ BogusSVO. What would be the downside of lifter tic? Reason why I ask is because, well I have it. I'm in the same boat with low oil pressure readings. Sometimes at idle my AEM digital gauge reads 10 - 13psi and the car wants to stall.

Car has in a used HKS Oil Pressure Thermostat. Everything else is pretty much new in the motor.

Manley Crank
Scat Rods
Mahle 86mm (.40) Pistons
B&M Oil Cooler
Ported OFH
Oil Pressure Gauge is hooked up to the OFH.
New OEM oil pump
New seals & gaskets
Balance shaft delete
Blocked off oil squirters

Thanks in advance.

 

[JacksonAuto]

10 psi at idle (800-1000 RPM) isn't abnormally low. Does it increase with RPM?

Lifter tick is just an annoying noise and is a sign that something else could be wrong.

 

[BogusSVO]

Sumopower... 10-13 psi at what rpm? with the stall, I would guess you have the idle a touch low.

Like JAM said,

Lifter tick is just an annoying noise and is a sign that something else could be wrong.

The lifters are the last to get oil, so if the oil pressure or flow is not what it needs be, they will show the signs first

 

[daplatano91]

Question what type of oil filter do you have on the car?

 

[GSXTasy005]

bs eliminator kit

Was this installed correctly? is it the stub shaft, or the AMS Performance unit?

 

[Sumopower87]

10 psi at idle (800-1000 RPM) isn't abnormally low. Does it increase with RPM?


Lifter tick is just an annoying noise and is a sign that something else could be wrong.

Yes. It increases with rpm.

Sumopower... 10-13 psi at what rpm? with the stall, I would guess you have the idle a touch low.

Like JAM said,


The lifters are the last to get oil, so if the oil pressure or flow is not what it needs be, they will show the signs first

As the pressure drops so does the rpm. My idle is right under the 1000rpm mark.

Question what type of oil filter do you have on the car?

I have on a NAPA GOLD oil filter #1356

Was this installed correctly? is it the stub shaft, or the AMS Performance unit?

Yes to this too. I put in the stub shaft and we rotated the bearings 180 degrees.

 

[JacksonAuto]

10psi at idle and 80+ while cruising- I don't think you have a problem.

I would pull the valve cover and take a peek at the valvetrain and verify that nothing is out of place causing the lifter tick. If everything checks out ok then drive it. I didn't see in the previous posts what cams and springs your using, but for reference, stiffer springs (especially duals) and larger cams will make more noise than stock parts. Also, if the geometry is off it will cause noise. Your ticking may not be the fault of the lifters at all.

 

[cliffkemp]

For reference, I just rebuilt my engine and changing the crank and rod bearings helped increase my oil pressure but, make sure the stubby shaft you put in has/had a grove in the middle. Some aftermarket stubs are solid and will eat out the oil pump. This can cause low pressure as it wears out and it will not take long at all.

Since you had your engine rebuilt, you should have had the shop write down the specs on the engine as they were putting it together. Bad tolerences can cause wierd things to happen with oil pressure.

Before I rebuilt my engine, I had about 12 psi and lifter tick at 1000 rpms.
Now, I have about 13 psi at 750 rpms and around 50 psi at 2500 rpms and 75 psi at 5000 rpms. Before the rebuild, I only had 55 max at higher rpms. Rebuilding and cleaning out the engine made a big difference.

 

[fosforito95]

im dealing with the same issue but only when the engine is fully warmed up. im using 10w30 and have an electrical oil pressure gauge. im guess i should change to mechanical gauge first and see what happens because when i first start the car the oil pressure is fine but as it warms up it drops down to zero. or maybe i ported the ofh too much.

 

[Sumopower87]

10psi at idle and 80+ while cruising- I don't think you have a problem.

I would pull the valve cover and take a peek at the valvetrain and verify that nothing is out of place causing the lifter tick. If everything checks out ok then drive it. I didn't see in the previous posts what cams and springs your using, but for reference, stiffer springs (especially duals) and larger cams will make more noise than stock parts. Also, if the geometry is off it will cause noise. Your ticking may not be the fault of the lifters at all.

I have some HKS 264s in there, and possibly some HKS or JUN springs. The car came with them from Japan.

For reference, I just rebuilt my engine and changing the crank and rod bearings helped increase my oil pressure but, make sure the stubby shaft you put in has/had a grove in the middle. Some aftermarket stubs are solid and will eat out the oil pump. This can cause low pressure as it wears out and it will not take long at all.

Since you had your engine rebuilt, you should have had the shop write down the specs on the engine as they were putting it together. Bad tolerences can cause wierd things to happen with oil pressure.

Before I rebuilt my engine, I had about 12 psi and lifter tick at 1000 rpms.
Now, I have about 13 psi at 750 rpms and around 50 psi at 2500 rpms and 75 psi at 5000 rpms. Before the rebuild, I only had 55 max at higher rpms. Rebuilding and cleaning out the engine made a big difference.

Well if this helps I bought a OEM bs delete kit, because like you said some dont have in that "special" grove. A friend and I built the motor and everything was tight and in spec. We bought the green and red plastiguages but eneded up only having to use the green one. The clearances were spot on.

Down here we don't have shops that build motors but if I had the $$$$ I would send a block up to graveyard motorsports or someone who can build a 7-bolt.