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Need some advice... :(

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talon2gbuyer

10+ Year Contributor
1,118
2
Sep 24, 2009
Aston, Pennsylvania
Hey all, so after having a no-start issue for the last few weeks, both Brian and myself have been mulling over what this could be, and neither of us can get a real positive idea. So here is what we came to:

-all plugs generate spark
-Timing at the cam gears was spot on (cant say for sure about the lower timing marks)
-When cranking I'm sometimes getting smoke from over by the timing belt area?
-Also heard a huge POP today, sounded like a gunshot, Fuel detonation?
-ECU was checked, no corrosion at all.
- Compression:
#1 - 154
#2 - 152
#3 - 148
#4 - 140

(those are cold block results btw.. but proves it isn't a HG.)

Now this afternoon I checked the ECU and found it was damn near perfect, no blemishes of any kind. Then i went and replaced the Coolant Temp. Sensor as that can be related to the no-start issue. Still no change. So now my thinking is that the crank sensor or CAS needs to be replaced, does anyone have any other suggestions for me? I do not have access to a multimeter or I'd check injector resistance (gonna order one in a few weeks along with Link... FINALLY) and when I pulled the plugs after trying to turn her over tonite there was black fluid on the tips of the plugs as well as smelled heavily of Fuel (so im guessing I have fuel as well, although i'm going to check return line fuel pressure tomorrow to ensure I have fuel going to the injectors properly) so I guess my question is, does anyone else have any suggestions on what I should check that I have not already?
:hmm:
 
Just realized that I did the compression test with-out WOT.. now I've read on other turbo sites that doing it WOT only gives you an added maybe 5psi on top of what I originally got without WOT? can anyone verify that this is either true or not?
 
cool story... LOL.

well I just threw in some NGK BPR7ES copper "one step colder" plugs and still had nothing.. could really use some ideas here, no matter how off the wall they may be.
 
MB, it was a pop with a puff of smoke from the head/fuel rail area. I was there helping him in person and I think it was unburnt fuel sitting on top of the piston that ignited all at once. I had the same thing happen to my car and it shot a 2-3' flame out of that area! But it sounded and looked the same and was from the same area.


Go to WalMart and pick up one of the yellow GE multimeters. It's what I use and will do the job just fine. Then start reading up and poking around.

You swap those injectors yet to eliminate that as a potential issue?
 
- Compression:
#1 - 154
#2 - 152
#3 - 148
#4 - 140

(those are cold block results btw.. but proves it isn't a HG.)

Just for clarification, a perfect compression test doesn't do much to rule out possible HG issues. A headgasket can fail in several ways that will never show up on a compression test.

MB, it was a pop with a puff of smoke from the head/fuel rail area. I was there helping him in person and I think it was unburnt fuel sitting on top of the piston that ignited all at once. I had the same thing happen to my car and it shot a 2-3' flame out of that area! But it sounded and looked the same and was from the same area.

I knew that flamethrower thing sounded familiar. LOL
 
FWIW Craig, he loosened the head bolts in plans to remove the head to check the gasket, but then realized he had to undo all the timing belt stuff so he torqued them back down in two steps, I believe. I told him to do a cold compression test as that'd at least tell him if it didn't seal back up (i.e. 0 psi in a cylinder). Maybe I was incorrect in this quick test. But that's at least the back story as to why I had him do that.
 
I gotcha.

The only problem with that is that once the engine heats up on the re-torqued bolts and a stretched/compressed gasket, things might like to move around a bit as everything tries to find it's new happy place. :)

If the bolts were all loosened and then re-torqued, it may have allowed the gasket to shift ever so slightly, or worst case...pinched a fire ring when it was torqued back down (probably not likely). It wouldn't hurt to re-check the torque with the engine warm, and then do a normal warm compression test.

EDIT:

It wouldn't hurt to re-check the torque with the engine warm, and then do a normal warm compression test.

Once you can get it started of course... :)
 
After re-reading your first post and talking with Brian a bit...

This sounds to me like you may have caused a small problem of some kind while doing all of these mods, which has now been compounded by taking a shotgun approach to fixing it.

I think you need to take a step back, clear your mind, and work methodically through everything you've done. Carefully check all of the wiring and the changes you made, and then start with the basics... blown fuses, battery voltage, leak-down test, fuel flow, injectors firing, spark, etc.
 
This link should help you. Honestly for what you'll be using it for is just checking voltage (V with 3 dots and straight line above) and resistance (Ω). Voltage will obviously check if things are receiving proper voltage and resistance will check if signals make it from ECU to sensor. If resistance is too high, then there's an issue with the wire.
 
I got one, not too shabby. Its a Innova digital multimeter, but i'm gonna wait until next week when it gets a tad warmer, as my hands freeze way too damn easily LOL. Thanks again guys for the tips and advise, I was really starting to think i'd never get this damn thing running LOL
 
pulled the plugs out tonite, fouled full of black shit again. Replaced with new ones and I'm going to wait till tomorrow (when it stops snowing) to try and turn it over again..
 
I know this sounds stupid but did you check to see if the cas is 180 out?
 
Then on top of what Brian was saying, I have no idea how it would have been out of sync, as I never touched it. The car ran great prior to this stupid turbo coolant hose rupturing, then when I replaced it and started upgrading things, can't get it to turn over anymore ROFL

I'm gonna test the CAS connector tomorrow once it clears up now that I have my spiffy new Multimeter. Is there any no-no's for testing that? like voltage supplied that it shouldn't exceed?
 
This link should help you. Honestly for what you'll be using it for is just checking voltage (V with 3 dots and straight line above) and resistance (Ω). Voltage will obviously check if things are receiving proper voltage and resistance will check if signals make it from ECU to sensor. If resistance is too high, then there's an issue with the wire.

I just now clicked on that.. you smart ass. :hmm:
 
could it be 180 out if you put it in with the crank not at tdc 180 out?
 
I don't think so since there's no putting it "in" anything. The sensor looks like the picture below and there's a plate behind the gear that passes by the sensor, just like the plate on the crank with a 2gb CPS sensor.

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O ok I see. what all did he do before this?
 
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