Need help with head gasket

[90_gsx_88]

Sorry guys I know I have a blown head gasket I'm trying to figure ot how hard it is to change it and what I should replace it with do I need new head bolts? Do I need to have it machined? How long and hard is it to do I just recently purchased a 90gsx with alot of money into it I was driving it home late at night and realized it was running really hot so I stoped and pulled the thermistat or of it since it failed on me and put new antifreeze in it it is filling the oil with antifreeze and smoking white like head gasket im just learning this car inside and out I've been american muscle my entire life and just recently got into the 4 cylinder cars should of done it long time ago ive changed sbc and sbf head gaskets and one on my vw fox if like to know what to get as a replacement and how much time it takes

 

[Talondvr]

I'm doing the same. I will be going with this. Make sure you get you're head checked to make sure it didn't warp. I would recommend getting ARP head bolts. Well worth the piece of mind. Good time to do the timing belt if it hasn't been done lately.

How long and hard is it to do I just recently purchased a 90gsx with alot of money into it I was driving it home late at night and realized it was running really hot so I stoped and pulled the thermistat or of it since it failed on me and put new antifreeze in it it is filling the oil with antifreeze and smoking white like head gasket im just learning this car inside and out I've been american muscle my entire life and just recently got into the 4 cylinder cars should of done it long time ago ive changed sbc and sbf head gaskets and one on my vw fox if like to know what to get as a replacement and how much time it takes

Also, Please use proper grammar. That was a bit of a challenge to read.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

While it does sound like a blown head gasket, I would recommend verifying it by doing a leak down test before you tear it all apart. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html.

I wouldn't recommend a Top Line head gasket. I would stick with either the OEm Mitsubishi composite head gasket or the Fel-Pro composite head gasket. Please don't use a MLS (Multi-layer steel) head gasket unless you are getting both the head and block deck surfaces refinished as they require a very fine surface to properly seal.

As mentioned good time to to a timing belt job and replace the water pump if you don't know how long it has been. This is an expensive and time consuming job but if the belt slips or breaks it becomes even more expensive and time consuming. Don't risk it. Check out the timing belt articles under the engine tab on the VFAQ: Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

APR head studs are great if you are looking to run more then stock boost. They are cheap and work great. I run them and recommend them.

 

[90_gsx_88]

The timing belt and components were just recently done about 4 months ago this is a fresh engine with about 10k to 15k miles on it it does have arp head bolts but my next question is can you re use the head bolts or should I get new ones this will be my first time doing a dohc engine head gasket I've done chevy and ford ones do I have to remove the timing belt cover completely or just the cam cover and can I do it while its still in the car

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

The timing belt and components were just recently done about 4 months ago this is a fresh engine with about 10k to 15k miles on it it does have arp head bolts but my next question is can you re use the head bolts or should I get new ones this will be my first time doing a dohc engine head gasket I've done chevy and ford ones do I have to remove the timing belt cover completely or just the cam cover and can I do it while its still in the car

APR studs are reusable. It is a good idea to measure them prior to installing them so the next time you pull them you can check for stretching.

You will have to remove the timing belt and the head, but the head gasket jpb can easily be done with the rest of the engine still in the car.

 

[SkyGrowsCold]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/185236-head-removal-mini-engine-rebuild.html I used this as well as vfaq.com site as guides and to triple check my work.

 

[BogusSVO]

Good to see you can do some wrenching!

Did SBC and SBF, good deal.. now put away all your SAE tools and grab the metric!

Surface finishes are diffrent on the Alum head of the Mitsu than the cast iron of the fords and chevys you have worked on in the past.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

You will check the head and block for warp, like you do any other head

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html


Also keep a record of how thick the head is
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-measure-4g63-cylinder-head-thickness.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

Hope this helps!

 

[90_gsx_88]

Ya I know the insides and outs of a SBC and SBF I could do them with my eyes closed but this car is completely new and have so many questions about this car I have been doing alot of research on the car but everything is still confusing I've been reading alot of the other forums on here and gaining more knowledge to the point my brain if smoking and having to re read them a few times to make since but just not real sure about doing the head gasket but I'm starting to get more confident about it

 

[BogusSVO]

Read all the links posted above, and you will be 90% there

The timing belt is going to be the tricky part, but the rest is just nuts and bolts

 

[CornBoosted]

Make sure you use ARP lube on the head studs not just engine oil.
Sorry, I just got my first dsm. I need posts.

 

[mx730md]

putting the timing belt back on probable the hardest part. isnt that hard get it torn down to the head gasket. just take your timing putting back together and double or triple check the timing is correct before starting.

 

[stuckwithgsx]

Do 1g's have the same oil cooler style as the 2g's?

I remember very similar problems with my 2g and it turned out to be the oil cooler. Then after that I found stock size pistons in a bored block, and a bunch of other things

All i'm saying is if you're getting coolant into your oil or vise versa then check all the places where they have a possibility of meeting. If it comes down to a bad head gasket then I would also have the head checked for cracks.

 

[90_gsx_88]

The car dosent seem to miss or run rough it runs very smooth and has no issues running I just recenly put br8 plus in it and gaped them to 30 was told it might be blowing out the spark with that big of a gap and that cold of a plug for it to start sputtering at around 6000 it didn't do it till after I put the new plugs in it but the oil just seems to get fuller and fuller and has a green tint to it I know it goes from normal running temp to maxing the temp gauge out sitting there for a few seconds and repeating it over and over

Ive put 3 different caps on it 4 difference thermostats and its still doing the same thing

 

[sykko]

oem gaskets all the way or u could use a metal but u need to resurface ## head and pulling the head off isnt too bad did my self in like a hour

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Get some buddy's and a case of beer
And just get it done.it's not to hard but take
Your time and before you know it your
Done.

God luck

 

[ENICKB]

Basically you remove the valve cover, remove pcv valve (may be a good time for a catch can now) pull your pullys and disconnect the exhaust and intake manifolds, pull timing cover, remove timing belt, slightly raise motor after removing drivers side motor mount and pull the head (may have missed a few slight details). it takes a few hours if the bolts have been turned within the past 10 years.
I personally would always recommend taking the head to a machine shop to be resurfaced. its less than 50$... and very worth the seal..
If you are planning on running less than 27psi, OEM head gasket is the way to go, its time-proven again and again, and you dont have to resurface the block as you would with a mls.
I would recommend brand new bolts, ARPs... and if you have ARPs, they are reusable, just compare threading and make sure they arent stretched. You can send them to ARP to be tested.
Also REMINDER!!! while your head is off, be sure to pull your oil filter housing, and change the gasket if you have driver side OIL LEAKS.. and while your at it, port the oil filter housing releif valve!!! this is good advice to anyone whos already done the work to remove the timing belt... also, check your alternator and power steering belt for wear. and check all your pulleys for resistance, or for wear and tear( if it wiggles when you shake it the bearing could be failing). Also remember you can easily add a catch can now and lower head pressure.. Also you can shave your valve cover while your waiting for the machine shop!!
And be sure to get your timing belt only slightly tightened.. you dont want to over tighten your timing belt, its a common mistake in the dsm community, which lessens the life of your timing belt and pulleys etc.
I have done many timing belt jobs... if you have any specific questions, feel free to PM me and i will try to respond asap with good advice!

 

[Ferrarieater]

You can do this trick when pulling the head if you know that your timing was set right. Just use the tool to compress the tensioner at TDC and zip tie the belt to cams and then unbolt the cam sprockets and bungie to the side.

 

[superorange]

^ nice trick i am definately stealing it

 

[bryanwheat]

That's cool and all, but it takes 15-20 minutes to remove the mount, water pump and crank pulleys, ac tensioner and lower timing belt cover. You also have no way to test the tensioner height and adjust if needed.

 

[olddsmer]

Do not drive your car anymore if there is coolant in your oil. The coolant will kill the lube qualities of the oil and you will spin a bearing. Pull the head and have it checked and decked at a machine shop. use a composite gasket. Jackson Auto Machine sells an upgraded composite good to 450 HP. I believe you said you have a 90 car so you shouldn't have an oil cooler on your filter housing which is good. If you do, get a oil filter housing that doesn't have a cooler on it. That sandwhich oil cooler on DSM's is nothing but trouble. If you want an oil cooler, get one that mounts in a remote position.

Regards
Greg

 

[DarkOne57]

You can do this trick when pulling the head if you know that your timing was set right. Just use the tool to compress the tensioner at TDC and zip tie the belt to cams and then unbolt the cam sprockets and bungie to the side.

That is a nice trick. When I replaced the head on my Saturn, it used a timing chain that had 4 black links. 2 at the top to lay across the timing marks on cams and 2 at the bottom to lay across the crank timing mark. Talk about easy. After working on DSMs most of the time you can appreciate that sort of simplicity.