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1gG-SEX

15+ Year Contributor
54
0
Aug 7, 2006
greenfield, Wisconsin
i have a 91' gsx, i want to reach 400whp and the ultmate goal is 500whp..here are my mods...

balance shaft removed, rebuilt head with a mild port, stanless valuves and retainer,3g lifters, evo 3 big 16g, tubular maifold, 3in down, 2.5catback no cat..nock off tial bov but i have a turboxs to put on and a 255walboro in the tank..i need a tranny for it it drive but the seal is dry roted and it leaks everywhere...fmic with 2.5piping

im not that far off but i dont no what my turbo will push for power and what im gonna need to do with bottum end.. and i need a little help with what else to use for supperting mods.im thinking a dsmlink? maybe new turbo to reach these goals.. thanks for the help:dsm:

p.s im kinda in a $4000 spending limit and im wonderin how possible this is to do?
 
A good transmission rebuild will eat up a large part of your budget, but your goal of 400hp is very attainable. There have been plenty of people make 400hp on a stock 6-bolt bottom end. Good tuning is the key. DSMLink is certainly a good tool to have. You may also want to look into a 2G maf. I wouldn't touch the bottom end until I had to. If it ain't broke, don't blow money trying to fix it. You just mainly need a good tune to be very close to 400hp right now.
 
You will need tuning, injector's, AFPR, MBC, boost guage, clutch/PP, intake pipe. Is the transmission fine, or is it just the seal thats rotted? You plan on sticking with the 16G? Are you trying to reach this "400 HP" goal on pump gas, or race gas? You might want to look into meth injection, cam's.

Why not set your goal's a bit lower, I can't tell you how many times Ive heard, " I want to make 400whp, or 500whp", how about modding your car well, and doing mod's that will compliment each other. Also in that 4k spending money you might want to include repair's. Whats the point of spending all your money to make xxx amount of HP, just for the car to break, and you don't have anymore money to fix it.:rolleyes:
 
You will NOT make 400whp nor 500whp with that setup...

I recommend a larger turbo (50trim -> gt30), dsmlink, a set of cams, larger injectors and a 3" catback..

Altho theres still a lot more involved, I would also make sure you have a very healthy aftermarket clutch for all of the abuse!

Honestly, don't even think about what it takes to hit 400whp or 500whp when you aren't even close to hitting 300whp!

In the long run if you wanted to hit those goals and by that time knew what you were doing and how to build a powerful dsm, I would recommend running an FP30 series turbo, perhaps a 3052 or 3065 which properly tuned would allow you to hit 400whp on pump gas and 500whp on race gas
 
You will NOT make 400whp nor 500whp with that setup...

I recommend a larger turbo (50trim -> gt30), dsmlink, a set of cams, larger injectors and a 3" catback..

Altho theres still a lot more involved, I would also make sure you have a very healthy aftermarket clutch for all of the abuse!

Honestly, don't even think about what it takes to hit 400whp or 500whp when you aren't even close to hitting 300whp!

In the long run if you wanted to hit those goals and by that time knew what you were doing and how to build a powerful dsm, I would recommend running an FP30 series turbo, perhaps a 3052 or 3065 which properly tuned would allow you to hit 400whp on pump gas and 500whp on race gas

First off id reccomend getting a full 3 inche turbo back. Also a healthy clutch and tranny are deff in the market for a setup like that. As for the turbo id reccomend getting a scm5031e or something along those lines. Also what kind of engine management are you using? Id say go with a dsm link if anything.
 
You will NOT make 400whp nor 500whp with that setup...


I recommend a larger turbo (50trim -> gt30), dsmlink, a set of cams, larger injectors and a 3" catback..

Altho theres still a lot more involved, I would also make sure you have a very healthy aftermarket clutch for all of the abuse!

Honestly, don't even think about what it takes to hit 400whp or 500whp when you aren't even close to hitting 300whp!

In the long run if you wanted to hit those goals and by that time knew what you were doing and how to build a powerful dsm, I would recommend running an FP30 series turbo, perhaps a 3052 or 3065 which properly tuned would allow you to hit 400whp on pump gas and 500whp on race gas

i never said i wanted to hit that much power on that set up i did ask what it would take to hit that goal..i said the ulitmate goal was 500whp i understand its alot of work and money to hit a goal like that..i did mention changing the 16g i would like to go with a 35r...but how could you say im not even close to 300whp? id say im right at about 300whp,with maf and maf translater and a aem wideband...i did for get to mention that i have an exady stage 2 clutch and findezza flywheel..the tranny right now is fine but the seal is dry rotted and it has 130k miles on it soo with the power im pushing i dont no how it will hold?

p.s i did forget to say i have a boost controller and a boost gauge and greddy turbo timer..sry

it just feels like i kinda got attacked and you come at me like i know shit?:dsm:
 
You will NOT make 400whp nor 500whp with that setup...

I recommend a larger turbo (50trim -> gt30), dsmlink, a set of cams, larger injectors and a 3" catback..

Altho theres still a lot more involved, I would also make sure you have a very healthy aftermarket clutch for all of the abuse!

Honestly, don't even think about what it takes to hit 400whp or 500whp when you aren't even close to hitting 300whp!

In the long run if you wanted to hit those goals and by that time knew what you were doing and how to build a powerful dsm, I would recommend running an FP30 series turbo, perhaps a 3052 or 3065 which properly tuned would allow you to hit 400whp on pump gas and 500whp on race gas

Also, just so you know the FP 3065 is capable of about 680hp as fp claims when properly tuned :)
 
the fp 3065 in a dual bb center right? i used to know somebody that had a 89-91 mirage converted to awd and running an fp3065 it was 405whp on the dyno!:thumb:
 
You will NOT make 400whp nor 500whp with that setup..

I don't know exactly what you meant by this, but the EVO III 16G is easily capable of 400 hp on race gas with good tuning. It's proven time and time again. It's also one of the sweetest street turbos I've seen for a DSM. I'd stick with the EVO III until I was getting everything possible out of it and concentrate on supporting mods for it.
 
You should look into picking up a good Holset turbo. They are extremely cheap and will pound out the power for you. They are great turbo's, I have several. You could pick up a Holset that will make the power for you and not spend that much on it. You could then use your money to fix your tranny, buy injectors, afpr, full 3" catback, and some form of tuning control like dsmlink. That will get you where you would like on a good tune of course. That would take care of getting you where you want but I would DEFINATLY get a clutch that will hold and you may think about a flywheel while you are down there. Make sure your car is in good running condition or it will break. Good luck with your goals and car, Keith.
 
That's 400 estimated crank horse on the E3-16G, not wheel.
As I've said before, make 200 wheel before shooting for 300 wheel. And don't go for 400 until you've hit 300 strong, and have done your homework. It's a pretty large AWHP number to be hitting, especially with how lossy our trannies are, given that a stock dyno usually comes back with between 120-140whp, on a 195 crank hp factory tune.
It's easy to jump in with both feet, try to go straight for the top, buy all the wrong parts (or all the right parts), but not have any idea how to properly tune the engine, and waste them all as the engine makes an unpleasant popping noise for a second or two.
 
I'm sorry? Perhaps I should have specified, the EVO III is capable of 400 AWHP on race gas with proper tune. It's a 550 cfm wheel. As bad as I hate to use them for a reference, even SBR broke 400 whp with it: Graph I do agrre that you have to crawl before you walk, so making 200 and then 300 before shooting for 400 is sound advice. There is no need for another turbo to make 400, though. As I said from the start, just supporting mods and good tuning.
 
That's funny. I can count one hand's worth on this page alone. :rolleyes: It've said since my first post that it would be pushing it, but I believe in getting everything possible out of a set-up before upgrading. You'll be a better tuner for it, too.
 
That's funny. I can count one hand's worth on this page alone. :rolleyes: It've said since my first post that it would be pushing it, but I believe in getting everything possible out of a set-up before upgrading. You'll be a better tuner for it, too.


Good job comparing SBR's setup to this one...I don't see a FULLY BUILT 2.1 Destroker and EMS in his mod list
 
Didn't SBR do that w/ a 2.4 stroker?

Nevertheless. Race gas DOES make 400 whp *possible* w/ the evo3 16G. He MUST have cams. And boost to kingdom come (for an evo3 16g). I don't see the logic behind buying a turbo and spinning the snot out of it to reach it's end all, be all potential. What if it blows? A good used evo3 16G can sell for about half of a new 500+ hp PTE turbo.

However, since he already has this turbo. Getting a good set of 212 duration (@ 0.05" lift) or bigger cams would be in order. PERHAPS the 2.0 at 7500 rpms can draw 550 cfm w/ good cams. BTW, the small 16g flows enough for 520 cfm. Isn't this enough for 400hp? The 14B even has enough in the compressor for 500 cfm. It doesn't last long when flowing this much.

The evo3 hotside (7 cm^2 td05H turbine wheel) is a clamp. A clip or a larger turbine housing or a td06H wheel is ALWAYS recommended when running any compressor larger than an evo3 16g; where 400 awhp is not such a high spinning chore for such wheels. Many guys are even getting great success w/ clipping the 05H turbine wheel w/ a big 16g which is a bit smaller than the evo3. This shows just how clamped the EVO3 16G is on the stock hotside.

Likely a SMIM is in order. ALL of these things are good investments for your goal anyway. They would help lower the boost neccesary to meet such an ultimate goal. The psi neccesary to reach your goal is much more important than the efficiency of the wheel chosen (as long as the compressor and turbine can flow enough). A well chosen hotside, cams, SMIM, and perhaps a tubular header should allow you to achieve thse results at a low enough boost to keep pump gas in the pic. Otherwise, water/alky injection should be your next purchase. I've seen excellent results w/ injection.
 
Good job comparing SBR's setup to this one...I don't see a FULLY BUILT 2.1 Destroker and EMS in his mod list

C'mon, man. I was simply demonstrating that the turbo was capable of making the power.

I'll tell ya'll what, soon I'm gonna prove (or disprove) this once and for all. I found a '92 6-bolt/4-bolt car for one of my buddies a couple of months back. We're in the process of collecting parts for it right now. We're gonna push the 14b as far as we can and then switch to an EvoIII 16G. Here's a list of the parts we've got piled up so far: Pillar pod, boost gauge, JoeP Pro-Z mbc, 3G maf w/ harness, HKS filter, K&N, EVO injectors, EVO I/C, 3" turbo back exhaust, Stealth TT fuel pump, 2G ported exhaust manifold, 7cm exhaust housing, ACT 2600.

We're pretty much down to an O2 housing and a few small odds and ends. I'll start a new thread once we actually get around to installing parts and link it from here. I'm much more interested in times than dyno numbers, but once we get a 16G on it and tuned, I'll throw it on the dyno one time. Our goal is 12.3's on the 14b and low 11's on the EvoIII 16G.
 
I really don't think anyone is debating that 400 hp CANNOT be sucked from an evo3 16g w/ a 2.0 block. All you have to do is raise your rev limit w/ a good set of cams, add SMIM, and your block will definately be demanding that flow at 22+ psi. But, considering the tools and finances at the disposal of most, you'll see that such a goal is far outside of realistic. A build head and a built tranny is a built setup. You're not going to reach 400hp w/ a stock shortblock and stock valve train. Don't bother. But you WILL have a fun car that will probably put a smile on your face! And be around 375 hp w/ a dynomite tune. That's plenty fun. High to mid 11s is possible w/ a little over 350 whp.

To get the evo3 16g to such a goal, you'll definately need cams and a better intake manifold. You'll need engine management that can raise the rev limit. You'll need a valve train that can handle the high rpms. . . And good luck utilizing that power curve on the street because a stock tranny will be grinding its heart out trying to rev so high. . . A better option is a bigger turbo that is less restrictive on the turbine side. Accept the lag (and down shift). Get a bigger compressor wheel to match. and now you have a setup that can POSSIBLY attain the goal on pump gas, stock cams, and stock intake manifold. Many turbo choices that fit this bill see full boost a bit before 4K so the stock tranny is still somewhat useful.

I'll say it again, I don't see the logic behind buying a turbo and spinning the snot out of it to reach it's end all, be all potential. Pick a hp goal. Start w/ the hotside and match that to your potential. Match a compressor wheel w/ flow and stick to the "within-10%-in-diameter" rule. And you're done.
 
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