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ECMlink Need help getting my car to be driveable

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dugan33

Supporting VIP
396
8
Jun 11, 2011
Madison, Wisconsin
I just put a new cylinder head on and a whole bunch of other new performance parts including a rebuilt throttle body. I cannot get the car to idle on its own without the throttle cable partially advanced. There aren't any boost/vacuum leaks at all and the only remaining problem I have yet to fix is a leaky radiator. Can someone look over my log and tell me whats strange or needs attention so I can get this thing to a tuning shop that knows how to make this perfect.

Beyond Redline told me these settings were a base setup for my car but they have lied about more before

My car has e85 in it 880pte injectors walboro 255 fuel lab afpr 264 crower cams supertech springs big 16g turbo
ets fmic setup and greddy f/v to atmosphere.
 

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I havnt a clue I paid beyond redline 4k to break my car this is supposedly a tune for my car that they charged me 4 hours for. but, the arp head studs they didn't torque down kept me from ever trying it out. The car has a new throttle body and I've adjusted the throttle down a bit just to keep it alive at idle. TPS is set to .48v cant adjust bliss. No vac leaks though. The coolant temp sensor plugs were broken so I soldered new terminals but the wires may be switched. do you know what color goes where? I just need a base tune to get this thing to make it to Chicago.

I cleared the dtcs and they didn’t come back, but I don’t know if that means they aren’t still there. Im putting a new radiator in Friday, hopefully making certain the coolant temp sensor is wired correctly and fixing my 90 tach with 92 ecu/coil/transistor, and then if I get a driveable tune ill try going around the block, but the way it is right now it wants to stall and the idle doesn’t sound healthy at all. I’m afraid I really don’t know what im doing with ecmlink and I don’t have a lot of time to figure it all out. Anything else I should look at Friday.[DOUBLEPOST=1415866459][/DOUBLEPOST]
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this is video of this log...
 
My car won't maintain a proper idle on it's own without dying so I can't get the bliss to 30 cause I will stall under 1000 rpms[DOUBLEPOST=1415889966][/DOUBLEPOST]I read somewhere in a forum on 90tb wiring that it was supposed to be .48-.52v for green/white wire from Steve
 
I had to re-wire my coolant temp sensor on my 90. Can’t get the picture to load but black wire goes on the left vertical post and the red wire goes on the horizontal post.

Here it is.
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Robert
 

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Thanks Robert that's almost exactly what I needed except you have new wire does the green/black wire go on the left! I have the bliss screw adjusted about 3 turns out im sitting at 1000rpm idle warm. It's a rough idle though I wouldn't drive this car 150miles I'm probably going to have to tow this there. It has to be related to my ecu settings. I'm gonna rewire the coolant temp sensor because mine was backwards, install a new radiator and try driving it around the block and go from there. Is there a link to base tunes for e85?
 
Had to peel back the loom and electrical tape but I found this:

green with black stripe = the black wire = vertical post
orange with green stripe = the red wire = horizontal post
 
Had to peel back the loom and electrical tape but I found this:

green with black stripe = the black wire = vertical post
orange with green stripe = the red wire = horizontal post
Thanks so much for your help! I got them wired that way now. It's too late to start the car up. I'll have to wait til tomorrow morning. A friend told me they aren't polar so they don't matter what goes where. Not sure if that's true.[DOUBLEPOST=1416094137][/DOUBLEPOST]Not sure if the coolant temp sensor had a bad connection or not but the car runs a little better. still have the throttle cable adjusted to about 3% at 1200rpms. Anything lower and it wants to stall. Going around the block i could feel it want to stall upon deceleration and the throttle cable seems stiff. Here's the log
 

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