need a new turbo..some advice!!

[gsx187]

Well like the title says I'm looking for a new turbo.. this will be the third turbo on my car...first one was leaking oil and I got it rebuilt and the rebuild started leaking as well after 3 months....

I am looking for a turbo that will pull hard and obviously be reliable...I called the person who rebuilt my turbo and he told me "to check the oil lines and inlets and get bigger ones and the leaking happens because it's the nature of the beast".......I do have all the correct inlets and oil lines / water lines to connect the turbo...

My car is currently at the shop and will get a call from them Monday for a quote on tunning and adding some mods to it...We will also see if the guy who rebuilt my turbo will fix it or not!! Current turbo that is on my car that is leaking is a T3/T4, STAGE 3 TURBINE T04B/E 50 TRIM.

Over the winter I saved some money and purchased some more mods below, sorry did not update my profile..updated mods and current mods are the following.

-Apexi N1 full 3 inch exhaust
-downpipe
-External Tail wastegate 38mm with o2 dumptube
-Vibrant FMIC and stainless steel piping (short route)
-Stainless steel intake pipe with K&N filter
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-Turbosmart type 3 dual port 32mm BOV
-turbosmart MBC
-new transmission
-880cc injectors not installed
-custom four puck Kevlar disc with 450 hp pressure plate
-NGK spark plugs and wires
-evo cast iron manifold
- aeromotive AFPR not installed
- AEM EMS with speed density setup not installed

Car was not really driven that much because because I had no way of tunning it with the 50 trim and was running on stock injectors when I had it rebuilt because I was saving money for DSMLINK or AEM.

Moving on my goal for now is anything above 300awhp and eventually later on go bigger...I have a stock 7 bolt with 114,000 miles on it..last compression test was 160 across all 4 cylinders.

With the mods above and running lets say 20psi max (still on stock head gasket and bolts) what turbo should I get that will be efficient in this range and will get me over 300awhp by 20psi or less? The shop mentioned to get a ball bearing turbo like gt35r which is overkill because i do not plan on running over 600 hp anytime soon and plus the engine is stock as mentioned before it would be just a waste of money to use that turbo and not run it in it's efficiency range. Just want a fairly quick spooling turbo that will pull hard and be reliable and put me over 300awhp at 20 psi or less with a good tune.

Been looking at he following turbo's
-gt30r
-Ball bearing 50 trim (which one is good?)
-Evo 3 big 16g
-20g

Sorry for the long post.
Any inputs would be great!!
Thanks

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Why in the world did you buy such an expensive tuning device??

Anyways. Nobody has ever said you can go wrong with a gt30r. So theres my vote.

 

[avengerKid]

A 16g or 20g can also net you that horsepower with a good tune and are fast spooling turbos. I'm also wondering why you went with the AEM over the Dsmlink?

 

[Sik95TSI]

16g or 20g can't go wrong!

 

[92AWDHX40]

I say the 20g, aem wow i never knew anyone to use that especially in a dsm.

 

[gsx187]

Well was going to get link but found a good price for the AEM for like 750 used and bought that instead. Maybe should of went with link but oh well. The gt30r is ball bearing will it outlast the journal bearing turbos? and will my stock 7 bolt be able to handle it at 20 psi with a good tune / will it pull harder than the 16g or 20g at that psi level? Thanks

 

[Cold Chill]

GT30r. You will need a oil pressure regulator. Garret reccomends. 50-55lbs of oil pressure on the ball bearings.

 

[teejayDSM]

If it were me I would try to sell the AEM for more than what I paid and go to DSMLink. From the research I did when I got mine it came down to ease of use vs things you can do. DSMLink is getting more and more versatile and it's a lot easier to start with. As for a turbo, if you are going for 20psi then I would go 16g for cheap or gt30r if you got the money, BB turbo is more reliable and would spool faster. 20 psi is 20 psi, it's how quickly you get there. Also, is your oil being fed from the head or from by the oil filter? you may have too much pressure if it's not from the head and causing oil to squirt out the turbo in bad places. If you're running hard and shutting down before cooling down you may be coking the bearings as well which could cause turbo failure.

 

[gsx187]

The oil is not fed from the head it's fed by the oil filter. Thanks for the info, I will look into this. I don't really drive it hard just once in a while I boost it. I have a turbo timer in the car so it idles for at least 2-3 minutes before it shuts down...I'm leaning towards the gt30r turbo as mentioned which is BB and more reliable as stated because I want to buy once not twice or pay for another rebuild and will have room to grow in the future. Another thing will my engine handle the 30r on 20 psi with a good tune? As "Cold Chill" stated above where would I find a good oil pressure regulator? Any other inputs on this turbo and my set up will be awesome!!Thanks !!

 

[avengerKid]

The gt30r will definitely give you more room to grow but so would the 20g it has also been known to make good power. The 16g and 20g can last just as long as the gt30r depends on how well its taken care of an maintained. There are a lot of factors in the life of a turbo not just if its a journal bearing or ball bearing. Just my opinion.

 

[pantherballhp]

If it were me I would try to sell the AEM for more than what I paid and go to DSMLink. From the research I did when I got mine it came down to ease of use vs things you can do. DSMLink is getting more and more versatile and it's a lot easier to start with. As for a turbo, if you are going for 20psi then I would go 16g for cheap or gt30r if you got the money, BB turbo is more reliable and would spool faster. 20 psi is 20 psi, it's how quickly you get there. Also, is your oil being fed from the head or from by the oil filter? you may have too much pressure if it's not from the head and causing oil to squirt out the turbo in bad places. If you're running hard and shutting down before cooling down you may be coking the bearings as well which could cause turbo failure.

dont think so. depends on how much air the turbo can flow. 10 psi on a 16g and 10 psi on a gt30r is gonna be two different animals. plus the 30r is a quick spooling turbo. that sucker would definitely get you moving

 

[JusMX141]

TD05H 20G, without a doubt.

OEM fitment and reliability, 42-44 lb/min airflow capable, all while spooling about 100rpms later than an Evo III 16G. What's not to like?

I'm leaning towards the gt30r turbo as mentioned which is BB and more reliable as stated because I want to buy once not twice or pay for another rebuild and will have room to grow in the future.

Perhaps- but a 16G/20G rebuild kit can be purchased for under $100 while a 30R cannot be rebuilt...it must be sent back to Garrett for service at a price of $450-$850 depending on how much damage is done. So if you over-oil a ball bearing turbo, it's not as simple as changing the turbine seal...it's a $450 service. Blow your engine and send metal through the 30R? $450-$850. Suck something into the intake and destroy the compressor wheel? $450-$850.

You get the picture.

plus the 30r is a quick spooling turbo. that sucker would definitely get you moving

Despite being a ball bearing turbo that is 52 lb/min capable, the 3076R still does not spool as fast as an Evo III 16G....so at 10psi you may very well get more airflow out of the 16G because it spools quicker and is closer to the compressor's efficiency range.

 

[pantherballhp]

TD05H 20G, without a doubt.

OEM fitment and reliability, 42-44 lb/min airflow capable, all while spooling about 100rpms later than an Evo III 16G. What's not to like?


Perhaps- but a 16G/20G rebuild kit can be purchased for under $100 while a 30R cannot be rebuilt...it must be sent back to Garrett for service at a price of $450-$850 depending on how much damage is done. So if you over-oil a ball bearing turbo, it's not as simple as changing the turbine seal...it's a $450 service. Blow your engine and send metal through the 30R? $450-$850. Suck something into the intake and destroy the compressor wheel? $450-$850.

You get the picture.


Despite being a ball bearing turbo that is 52 lb/min capable, the 3076R still does not spool as fast as an Evo III 16G....so at 10psi you may very well get more airflow out of the 16G because it spools quicker and is closer to the compressor's efficiency range.

i'm strictly talking about 10psi vs 10psi. not what rpm they reach that at. you are correct on the spool.

 

[JusMX141]

i'm strictly talking about 10psi vs 10psi. not what rpm they reach that at. you are correct on the spool.

Actually, I'm seeing better low-boost performance from the 16G...so your 10psi comparison theory is out the window.

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[avengerKid]

I'm running a 16g right now on my laser low boost is 13psi high is 17psi an even at 13 this turbo packs a good punch an is sufficient at doing so. I also have a 20g i am gonna upgrade to down the line i like the fast spool of these turbos. In my opinion I'd go with either a 16g or 20g.

 

[gsx187]

Thanks all for the info..I will keep on researching and reading..basically got it down to the 20g and the gt30r...one of these i will get...i will keep you posted!

 

[BigBeans]

Thanks all for the info..I will keep on researching and reading..basically got it down to the 20g and the gt30r...one of these i will get...i will keep you posted!

For 300whp a 30R is a waste of $.

Go with the 20G, pocket the extra $ and you can still get more out of it when you have the motor/supporting mods sorted out.

 

[avengerKid]

For 300whp a 30R is a waste of $.

Go with the 20G, pocket the extra $ and you can still get more out of it when you have the motor/supporting mods sorted out.

I agree the 20g is a good turbo an cheaper than the 30r.

 

[lauj2gdsm]

wtf??? 20g over a 30r??? 20g over 50trim bb?? this guy is had a 50 trim.. its like ya saying queen latifa over kim kardashin. u guys got issues. FOr me ill go with the 30r or bb50trin anyday over the 20g.

 

[avengerKid]

Well that is your preference but the 20g is also known to put out big numbers an is good enough for the hp he is shooting for an will also give him room to grow. All this while being easier on the wallet! So why not go with the 20g?

 

[Below Ambient]

I think if it were me I'd look into the HTA DSM82. I used to run a 50 trim and loved the top-end pull... I think anything with a GT30R wheel would be a great upgrade

 

[FLASH1970]

I say go with a 20g. Also, you have a 98 so you might have a flashable ECU. If so, sell the AEM setup, get EVOScan and a tactrix 2.0 cable with the flash plug, download ECUFlash and you are set for datalogging and tuning for about 200-225 dollars.

 

[gsx187]

Thanks all..Yeah I will look into selling the AEM and get LINK...or EVOSCAN as mentioned above...Also one question many stated to get the 20g turbo just want to know which turbo will provide a bigger punch/pull when tuned to 20 psi the 20g or gt30r?...i know the gt30r is a bigger turbo and will prob be more efficient at 25psi and over..but in the future I do plan on running 25+psi thanks.

 

[dsm-onster]

If one is looking at a 30r, there are several other turbos out there that are proven to spool the same and flow more air. Or proven to spool faster and flow the same air.

If you're looking at a TD05H 20g, then you can net the same goal with an evo3 16g using pump gas. But you can always upgrade the turbine housing to the t3 piece on the fp 20g and manifold to a t3 flange to make a good 450whp pumpgas setup. But you can do the same with something like an hx35 as well. . . The options now-a-days are endless. When you upgrade the hotside of a td05h 20g, you're putting it in the range of the 30r turbos. . . And again, you have to look at all the options far more affordable than the 30r: hx35, s256, etc. Afterall, the hx35 is a quite consistant 10sec turbo with the stock housing. And you can have it be a bolton turbo that has consistantly output well over 400whp with pumpgas with faster spool than a 30r. But don't leave out the s256 which can be had in bolton form and has put out some very nice numbers in bolton housings. Both have the option of running larger housings later that will give you full potential of 580-600whp compressor wheels already installed on them.

 

[avengerKid]

If one is looking at a 30r, there are several other turbos out there that are proven to spool the same and flow more air. Or proven to spool faster and flow the same air.

If you're looking at a TD05H 20g, then you can net the same goal with an evo3 16g using pump gas. But you can always upgrade the turbine housing to the t3 piece on the fp 20g and manifold to a t3 flange to make a good 450whp pumpgas setup. But you can do the same with something like an hx35 as well. . . The options now-a-days are endless. When you upgrade the hotside of a td05h 20g, you're putting it in the range of the 30r turbos. . . And again, you have to look at all the options far more affordable than the 30r: hx35, s256, etc. Afterall, the hx35 is a quite consistant 10sec turbo with the stock housing. And you can have it be a bolton turbo that has consistantly output well over 400whp with pumpgas with faster spool than a 30r. But don't leave out the s256 which can be had in bolton form and has put out some very nice numbers in bolton housings. Both have the option of running larger housings later that will give you full potential of 580-600whp compressor wheels already installed on them.

This is some good information thank you for elaborating on the subject. I'm sure this will help alot of people in the future reading this post i know it is gonna help me!