My First Engine Build (yes its a 6 bolt)

[Gst18]

I finally got everything back from the machine shop and had some spare time so I started the assembly process. (as you can tell this is a slow project since its my first)
Current short block setup i will be running.
.020 bored
polished crank
Eagle rods/Ross pistons
Clevite 77 main and rod bearings
Arp hardware which i dont have yet.
Removed oil squirters.

Here are a few pictures of the block.
Main clearances checked out at .002


Any advise will be very helpful.
Thanks

 

[Injected]

Did you paint your block gold?!?

Seriously though make sure to keep everything clean from any contaminants, even your own fingers. Also, be sure and clean the cylinder walls before putting in the pistons. Some machine shops will and some won't. If they don't then there is quite a bit of metallic particles left over from the machining process that can severely cut the life of the engine down.

What machine work did you have done? Of course .020 over and honed I'm sure. Did you get the mains line honed for roundness? If everything checks out and is in spec (good for you for checking), then it should all be well, I'm just curious.

Are you keeping track of other specs? What are your ring gaps and piston-cylinder gaps?

 

[Dream On]

Blingin' block.

 

[Gst18]

I had told my machine shop to give it a line hone but they said they checked it and it didn't need one. As for measuring the rest of the clearances i will be doing them this week while I'm at school and have some spare timing. I know i should have done all the measurements before i started installing but i got excited

I have a question... The ross pistons and eagle rods i received 'have some kind of marking on them to show which direction they are installed. I take it the pistons go with the larger valve pocket on the back side of the block and the rods go in either way?

I'm also about to order my front case and a few other parts but i don't know where i can find the best deal for true oem parts.

Thanks

 

[Gst18]

Ohh and yes i did paint my block gold. I made sure i taped everything off that let towards the inside of the engine.

How's it look?

 

[project_tsi]

Looks good, BUT, your plastigage was done wrong. Plastigage needs to be done dry, meaning no oils, grease, or assembly lubes on the bearings when doing it. It can cause incorrect readings if you do.

 

[Injected]

Looks good, BUT, your plastigage was done wrong. Plastigage needs to be done dry, meaning no oils, grease, or assembly lubes on the bearings when doing it. It can cause incorrect readings if you do.

He's right (damn, why didn't I catch that?). I would do them again.

'm also about to order my front case and a few other parts but i don't know where i can find the best deal for true oem parts.

What's wrong with the original parts you have (except oil pump, check SBR)?

How's it look?

Gold. How do you think the gold block going to look in the silver car?

 

[Gst18]

i guess i will redo them since it doesnt take long at all.
The block is actually being built for my 1g awd. Its pretty much all gutted out and gonna be my street/drag car. Its a black talon TSI AWD thats gonna have everything unnecessary removed.

hoping to get about 400 wheel.
Will post my future plans in a few weeks when i get further in my build.

 

[project_tsi]

Are you going to switch to ARP main studs? If so, a line hone needs to be done after the ARP mains are installed.

 

[Gst18]

i guess i will just stick with factory main bolts since someone sucessfully made 700 wheel on them. Does anyone know if topline oil and water pumps are any good?

 

[Dream On]

I wouldn't skimp on two things that are so important. Get OEM for the pumps. I'd try JNZTuning, they always seem to have the best OEM prices.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Are you going to switch to ARP main studs? If so, a line hone needs to be done after the ARP mains are installed.

Why? Just of curiosity?

Looks good man... Hopfully when the money starts commin in I'll be in the same boat as you Keeps it clean, and double check everything! Good luck hitting the 400s!

 

[project_tsi]

Anytime a set of new mains are used a line hone should be done. Of course, I guess you could say it isn't mandatory and people have gotten away with out doing it, but others have had failures due to not doing it. I've heard it from quite a few people, including multiple engine builders, as well as reading it a few times on these forums.

 

[Gst18]

so would i be able to use the existing main bolts i currently have then? Wouldn't reusing them after so many miles make them stretch over time? I dont know how many miles are on them either.

 

[project_tsi]

so would i be able to use the existing main bolts i currently have then?

More than likely yes. Many people reuse stock main bolts in higher hp engines.

Wouldn't reusing them after so many miles make them stretch over time? I dont know how many miles are on them either.

I believe you can measure them for stretch just like rod bolts. Look in your manuals for tolerances.

 

[Ravenous]

I don't understand why the bolts make a difference on the mains? I understand why on the rods since they have to be pressed in and that can cause a distortion, but is just changing the main bolts going to cause enough distortion to warrant a line hone? I was under the impression that it was only needed if you changed the main caps (pro-gram main caps...etc)

 

[project_tsi]

Read up on everyones information if you'd like.


http://dsmtuners.com/forums/search.php?searchid=2293431

 

[gixrman]

Removed oil squirters.

First off why? its a 1g and theres nothing wrong with them, they are there for piston cooling, and 2 I hope you pluged the holes or you're going to be dumping oil all over the crank creating all kinds of windage issues.

 

[project_tsi]

First off why? its a 1g and theres nothing wrong with them, they are there for piston cooling, and 2 I hope you pluged the holes or you're going to be dumping oil all over the crank creating all kinds of windage issues.

He removed them because he's running Ross pistons. If he were using stock pistons then the squirter's would still be needed. But think about it, during the R & D of the Ross pistons, as well as Wiseco's, JE's, etc, etc, these pistons were never designed around using any type of piston squirter. This means that a squirter on an after market piston is not needed. I've called wiseco and talked to them about it, and they stated while a squirter would still help cool the piston a small bit, its not necessary at all.

I prefer to run all my setups without squirter's on forged pistons.


And yes, if removing the squirter's, the holes need to be plugged. I bought some bolts, cant remember what size, but they are the same thread and pitch of the squirter's. I cut them down to size and used copper crush washers and loctite red on them. If you don't plug them, you will lose almost all oil pressure.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Anytime a set of new mains are used a line hone should be done. Of course, I guess you could say it isn't mandatory and people have gotten away with out doing it, but others have had failures due to not doing it. I've heard it from quite a few people, including multiple engine builders, as well as reading it a few times on these forums.

Ahhh, see Im a dumbass, I thought you were talking about headstuds....
oh well, I still didn't know that aobut the main studs either though I guess you learn something everday huh?

Another question, what do you mean "after they are installed" as in, torqued down, or just screwed in... I'm confused...

 

[gixrman]

He removed them because he's running Ross pistons. If he were using stock pistons then the squirter's would still be needed. But think about it, during the R & D of the Ross pistons, as well as Wiseco's, JE's, etc, etc, these pistons were never designed around using any type of piston squirter. This means that a squirter on an after market piston is not needed. I've called wiseco and talked to them about it, and they stated while a squirter would still help cool the piston a small bit, its not necessary at all.

I prefer to run all my setups without squirter's on forged pistons.


And yes, if removing the squirter's, the holes need to be plugged. I bought some bolts, cant remember what size, but they are the same thread and pitch of the squirter's. I cut them down to size and used copper crush washers and loctite red on them. If you don't plug them, you will lose almost all oil pressure.

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I'm just assuming he's running this on the street and benifit of the squriters would outway the removal. The EVO8 still uses them and they have forged pistons.

 

[project_tsi]

Right, either way you can use them or not. If building a stroker, you can actually use the evo squirters because they are shorter.

 

[Gst18]

i called Ross up today and they told me to just use them if i'm planning on running a good amount of boost.
boost equals more heat making the pistons hotter, creating det, knock etc.
I guess imma buy a set. Anyone knows where i can find them new for cheaper than 50 bucks?