My 2g Chassis Build.

[turboking15]

What do you plan on doing for a jig table?

 

[Alex7747]

wow you are one crazy mofo. . dam i cannot wait to see the finished product . good luck man!!

 

[dsmornothing]

As far as a jig table goes, I made adjustable stands which should work just fine. My main shop floor is perfectly level so it should not be an issue, I just have to watch out for any warpage that may occur during welding. Lots of measuring. And for some reason I am unable to upload pictures at the moment. Hopefully its just some technical problems.

 

[turboglenn]

Yea, floors work fine, i've seen many a chassis built using not much more than a floor, some chalk line markings and a few simple 90, 45 and other various angle jigs just for doing joints. then some other simple jigs you can make for working width and such are super easy as well

 

[Lofty]

You added me on facebook, I thought "Okay! Another random DSMer"

Then I saw your pictures of this and I was like THIS GUY IS NUTS!


I can't wait to see what this becomes. Those TUBS are HUGE!


Don't you dare let this project die out or I will come to your house and weld a roman battle spear on the front of the car and make it run and then immediately crash it into your garage.

 

[spooling 1g]

I think its been in the high sevens. DSMTimes.org - Home At least when Buschur owned it. I thought Phil Davidson owned it now?

Yup phil owns it now.Im not sure how fast its been since buschur had it but i think phils went 7's in it aswell.

 

[dsmornothing]

Figured Ill share theses pictures from last night. Nothing special really, was just playing with my GoPro a bit.

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[bastarddsm]

Stop it! Your giving me bad ideas about my 1g again!

Anyway, do somthing differen't put a g-force or jericho behind it! Not some stupid auto. It's almost like watching paint dry seeing the other RWD dsm's run.

Also, cover your glass when your making sparks. They will burn into it glass.

 

[96awd]

Lofty is a creep...

I'm in shock it's gone this far, Cory. Lol I can't wait for it to actually come together!

Lewis Ludwig via MyTouch 4G

 

[dsmornothing]

I was looking into Tremec 5 speeds but these days, it seems as auto is the best way to go. And yes Lewis I am amazed it got taken this far too. Never thought there would be a day that I was cutting up my beautiful 2g. No Regrets.

 

[96awd]

I was looking into Tremec 5 speeds but these days, it seems as auto is the best way to go. And yes Lewis I am amazed it got taken this far too. Never thought there would be a day that I was cutting up my beautiful 2g. No Regrets.

Good ol' Tremec trans.. They take some beatings, that's for sure. I would stay auto though if you want 8's. The auto will just accompany that weight just perfect for an 8 second pass.

 

[dsmornothing]

Good ol' Tremec trans.. They take some beatings, that's for sure. I would stay auto though if you want 8's. The auto will just accompany that weight just perfect for an 8 second pass.

I agree. Not only that, but if the day ever comes where I decide to become sinister and go with say a 4202 or something like that. 5 speed is not fun when your ripping a turbo that big.

 

[96awd]

I agree. Not only that, but if the day ever comes where I decide to become sinister and go with say a 4202 or something like that. 5 speed is not fun when your ripping a turbo that big.

Agreed. Auto with some nitrous is all you need!

 

[Pirrofab]

a ford 9inch imho is a bit overkill. A well built chevy 12 bolt should be around the same price and lighter. However if you already have the rear then I guess it doesn't matter. Im definatley interested in this build and hope it gets carried out to completion. As far as a transmission a th350 will be more then able to take a beating but with gm bellhousings not changing and a few transmissions ato choose from with an adapter plate maybe a 700r4 would be an even better selection. Slightly longer and heavier but you would get a fourth gear and you could get a controller box for the overdrive. 700r4 are weaker stock when compared to a th400 however when built they are bulletproof. I have one built to handle 11,000 lbs GVW.

Another very heavy, bulletproof, power robbing trans to use would be a 4l80e truck trans from a new 5.3/ 6.0 chevy pick up. I think that is way over kill though.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'm just saying driving a 5 speed car is way way more fun than an auto.

 

[dsmusmc]

I'm just saying driving a 5 speed car is way way more fun than an auto.

Yea for a street car but for someone looking for a drag car and wanting to keep your drivetrain in the car then go auto. On an auto once your spooled your turbo will stay spooled wont drop off. Don't forget about better reaction times. Building a drag car with a manual is like buying a N/T and putting a turbo on it.

 

[Pirrofab]

Get an automatic and put a manual valve body in it if you still want to shift the car your way. This can be done on the newer electronic automatic transmissions as well. Just cost alot more

 

[arrowhead]

I am in the same process as you are except mine will be a road race car not a drag car I have done inside the same thing but gone further as far as weight reduction and replacing parts with fiberglass.
I have built race cars before and when I have come up with a question before or an idea most people in these forums will start coming up with wild ideas.
My car is a 98 Talon tsi with lock up motor which I have not even taking out of the car yet. The local club here is called FARRA and there are no minimun weights only engine size. I got involved again after a few years away from it becouse my son decided to build a mustang to race in SCCA and the local club.
My first experiance with these cars came I beleive in a race in West Palm Beach or Daytona and the Archer Brothers showed up I had a 69 corvette with a 427,
I raced in SCCA and IMSA I was lion head in SCCA and a lion tail in IMSA.
These guys put it on us so bad It was pitiful how could these small engines do it?
I always like these cars for their looks and performance. So I bought me a Talon
back in dec.2010 I have so far made a new hood with an extra hump on the pass. side. the 2 doors the hatchback and a complete roof w/o the sunroof and everything will be replaced with plexiglass of course a roll cage will be in it.
I had a machine shop for 18 years but i still have to learn about these engines since I am an all motor man and also an old man I have been reading a lot and learning take your time and do it right.
I will be following your build and dont give up on it

arrowhead
arrowhead

 

[dsmornothing]

Wow, I have not updated In quite a long time. Got some goodies in. Here they are!

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[arrowhead]

Glad to see you are making progress.
are you gutting the doors also and inside panels on the rear, and on sides of rear seats.

I started with the pass door strip it to the max even cut the hinges in half, but it still weighed 14#, NOT GOOD ENOUGH FOR ME, so i made new ones out of fiber,if i can make a piece and cut its weight in half then I am happy, complete door weight
with all panels, reinforcements, electric motor and hardware my scale only goes to 100# and it top it so i guess about 105 to 110.

Final weight of pass. side door 4 1/2# it will probably go up to 6 when I am done with it.

Since I can make almost anything out of fiber I am going to make the lightest car I have built Ihave done these before with many friends cars and my own.

I did my 69 corvette for road racing and got it down to 2072# with the stock chassis with many reinforcements to it.

As you can tell I am a weight nut but it sure works, the local club where I plan to race only goes by engine size so I am going to built a very light car.

If I can give you some pointers let me know.

arrowhead

 

[dsmornothing]

Alright, Here is some real progress. The body is now a floppy mess. But body lines still look ok. Looking at Cutting out more then reinforcing the body its self with more 4130. I really want to see this car UNDER 2000lbs when it is finished.

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[bryanwheat]

Kind of going about that wrong in the front end. I would of definetly left the lower frame rail and inner fender structure and just reinforced it with some tubing by tying it into the roll cage. The structure there is plenty strong enough for what you are doing. Kind of over complicating it by going this route. IT also would of been pretty feesable to build a rear subframe that bolts to the factory location to mount your 4 link to that. I could see if you were trying to build something with a full tube frame, but i don't see that necessary. Should of braced the whole body up before cutting it all apart also to keep everything aligned.

 

[dsmornothing]

Actually I AM doing a full 25.1e SFI Tube chassis. It was necessary to cut everything off.

 

[bryanwheat]

Do you have a jig to do this with to keep the frame true, or are you just building it off that un braced twisted body? I commend you for taking something like this on, but doing it on jack stands like that, without having it mounted to a jig of some sorts and bracing everything it is not going to come out straight.

 

[dsmornothing]

Well I can say that I have a 30 yr experience chassis builder helping me. He said it was not needed tie the body together as the bracing will just have to come out anyways to drop the body on. As far as a table, Ive built stands for building the actual chassis on. MANY people have built them on garage floors and they come out just fine.