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Any reason why some of this years pics are down and not working? Qhite a few seem to be broken links and not showing.
 
Any reason why some of this years pics are down and not working? Quite a few seem to be broken links and not showing.
 
Any reason why some of this years pics are down and not working? Quite a few seem to be broken links and not showing.

Hmm, all photos seem to be showing up for me?

I will say what I found odd on my driveshaft post, is I left most of those photos at the end as thumbnails, and they seemed to post as "full images" on their own.
 
Hmm, all photos seem to be showing up for me?

I will say what I found odd on my driveshaft post, is I left most of those photos at the end as thumbnails, and they seemed to post as "full images" on their own.
Thats so weird as when i went back they all appeared again? Hmmm dont know what was going on there then.

Im glad it posted them as full images as i hate going through thumbnails, i just said this on someone elses post
 
Hmm, all photos seem to be showing up for me?

I will say what I found odd on my driveshaft post, is I left most of those photos at the end as thumbnails, and they seemed to post as "full images" on their own.
That was my doing. :) I always tell people to click the "Full Images" button when posting attachments so that viewers don't have to click the attachments individually to view them.
 
That was my doing. :) I always tell people to click the "Full Images" button when posting attachments so that viewers don't have to click the attachments individually to view them.

Ahhhh well that makes sense! I didn't think people would want to scroll through a bunch of large photos haha. I will post as full image from now on! Thanks!
 
Ahhhh well that makes sense! I didn't think people would want to scroll through a bunch of large photos haha. I will post as full image from now on! Thanks!
People are used to scrolling through photos now, it's become a pretty standard user expectation - very few want to click to enlarge these days. We're becoming more lazy.
 
Well, after about two months of searching and waiting, and dealing with A LOT of clowns, I finally got the forward frictions that I wanted to use! They are an upgraded material from Raybestos, the same material used in Kiggly 5 friction front clutch pack. I have a couple rear clutch pack kits on the way.

I went this route mainly for a piece of mind, as I do have some generic aftermarket frictions I came close to using, and they just feel too "papery" to me. These Raybestos feel "right" and I'm much more confident using these in the build that's for sure.

161400442_875571999951647_8212877763171193752_n.jpg

I wanted to rebuild the replacement forward drum that I got too, so I found the special tool used to compress the piston's springs to take it apart and install new piston seals:
150778640_417071616045338_694075790205707629_n.jpg

161900831_3829089407136987_6890988261379319211_n.jpg


And this is why I wanted to use a different forward drum, I found my original unit it be crack:
cracked forward drum 1.jpg


And it was time to get the trans back together and in the car. I just hope I did the trans correctly, fingers crossed big time on that!
162022401_1190222041398745_7430843598255876821_n.jpg

162238966_346551170079160_6848579249573877067_n.jpg
163516157_1706164829571917_1049143717706322963_n.jpg
162078029_463304528153122_4126198875681084601_n.jpg
162046309_457599368625241_8778463719394948899_n.jpg
161728197_773013313644375_2691765753984687679_n.jpg



Just a couple more small things I got for the car while I was waiting. I wanted to have a fire extinguisher in cabin for a long time, but I didn't want to have a big bulky unit. I came across this element fire extinguisher that some other fellow DSMers have been using, so this will find it's new home in the car shortly, probably between the rear seats and the glove box.
162965466_263223945302098_3225095541576027215_n.jpg


Also it was time to ditch the old OEM rear trans mount/ roll stop with half assed prothane inserts. I went with boosted fab rear trans mount with their poly bushing option:
150911075_769819440305369_756406727331932333_n.jpg



And that's pretty much it for now. I have to button up the rest of the car, and find out if I did this transmission correctly or not!

Thanks for lookin!
 
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Well, after about two months of searching and waiting, and dealing with A LOT of clowns, I finally got the forward frictions that I wanted to use! They are an upgraded material from Raybestos, the same material used in Kiggly 5 friction front clutch pack. I have a couple rear clutch pack kits on the way.

I went this route mainly for a piece of mind, as I do have some generic aftermarket frictions I came close to using, and they just feel too "papery" to me. These Raybestos feel "right" and I'm much more confident using these in the build that's for sure.

View attachment 625221
I wanted to rebuild the replacement forward drum that I got too, so I found the special tool used to compress the piston's springs to take it apart and install new piston seals:
View attachment 625222
View attachment 625238

And this is why I wanted to use a different forward drum, I found my original unit it be crack:
View attachment 625226

And it was time to get the trans back together and in the car. I just hope I did the trans correctly, fingers crossed big time on that!
View attachment 625239
View attachment 625230 View attachment 625231 View attachment 625229 View attachment 625228 View attachment 625227


Just a couple more small things I got for the car while I was waiting. I wanted to have a fire extinguisher in cabin for a long time, but I didn't want to have a big bulky unit. I came across this element fire extinguisher that some other fellow DSMers have been using, so this will find it's new home in the car shortly, probably between the rear seats and the glove box.
View attachment 625232

Also it was time to ditch the old OEM rear trans mount/ roll stop with half assed prothane inserts. I went with boosted fab rear trans mount with their poly bushing option:
View attachment 625233


And that's pretty much it for now. I have to button up the rest of the car, and find out if I did this transmission correctly or not!

Thanks for lookin!
Great update as always!
 
I don't have too much of an update, as I'm stuck in the water with my shift box out for repair. Not sure what's going on with it exactly, but it doesn't seem to be powering up correctly.

I was able to get to the alignment rack, but found my rear toe was out of adjustment and wasn't able to get any better than -.4 degrees, so I ordered up a set of Volk Metal Craft's (@99gst_racer ) 2g adjustable rear toe arms and installed them. Whenever I get the shift box back I will get the rear alignment sorted out 100%. These rear toe arms are awesome looking and amazing quality!

Volk toe arms 1.jpg


Volk toe arms 3.jpg
Volk toe arms 2.jpg


One other small thing I tossed in while waiting for the shift box to get back is a Motion Raceworks horn cover for the steering wheel. Gives it a cleaner look when compared to the grant horn button.

175134266_461547351789253_4701482180294528788_n.jpg


Once I get the shift box back, rear toe dialed in, and a couple other checks I should be ready to hit the dyno and hopefully make it out to a couple races this year!

Thanks for looking!
 
I don't have too much of an update, as I'm stuck in the water with my shift box out for repair. Not sure what's going on with it exactly, but it doesn't seem to be powering up correctly.

I was able to get to the alignment rack, but found my rear toe was out of adjustment and wasn't able to get any better than -.4 degrees, so I ordered up a set of Volk Metal Craft's (@99gst_racer ) 2g adjustable rear toe arms and installed them. Whenever I get the shift box back I will get the rear alignment sorted out 100%. These rear toe arms are awesome looking and amazing quality!

View attachment 627663

View attachment 627665View attachment 627664

One other small thing I tossed in while waiting for the shift box to get back is a Motion Raceworks horn cover for the steering wheel. Gives it a cleaner look when compared to the grant horn button.

View attachment 627666

Once I get the shift box back, rear toe dialed in, and a couple other checks I should be ready to hit the dyno and hopefully make it out to a couple races this year!

Thanks for looking!
Are those Sparco shoes in that last photo? :D
 
Thanks for posting up on your build. There's always something to be learned from reading through other people's build threads.

Thank you also for sharing the information about the extinguisher. We didn't previously know about those and we were just about to add them to build.

The clutch packs look stout. What brand are those?
 
Thanks for posting up on your build. There's always something to be learned from reading through other people's build threads.

Thank you also for sharing the information about the extinguisher. We didn't previously know about those and we were just about to add them to build.

The clutch packs look stout. What brand are those?
Thanks! Yeah I want to say I originally saw Jason Drew post about the Element fire extinguisher, and it looked like a nice alternative to a typical unit you see.

The rear clutch pack consists of Raybestos Stage-1 RED frictions along with fresh steels.

4.jpg
 
Yeah im lucky to have some volk stuff on my, car i call him up and go get it hes only 30 minutes from me so nice and convient, good to save on shipping, nice discount when i just show up for parts.
 
The 6 bolts that attach the driveshaft shop DS to the tail section, did those come with it?

I picked up a used one for the Galant and the bolts didn't come with it.

Also, what did you use to spray on the section of the driveshaft that's still stock?
 
The 6 bolts that attach the driveshaft shop DS to the tail section, did those come with it?

I picked up a used one for the Galant and the bolts didn't come with it.

Also, what did you use to spray on the section of the driveshaft that's still stock?
Yes, my diveshaft shop DS came with 6 new bolts to connect to the OEM tail section.

I used POR15 for the OEM tail shaft section, and actually just brushed it on after prepping it.
 
Yes, my diveshaft shop DS came with 6 new bolts to connect to the OEM tail section.

I used POR15 for the OEM tail shaft section, and actually just brushed it on after prepping it.
Are you able to tell me the size/length of those bolts?

I called them and asked and got the following

six - 5/16 x 24 x 1 1/4 long, and
four - 3/8 x 24 x 1 1/4 long

The bolts in the pictures you have in post 39 look to be longer than 1 1/4 inch
 
Are you able to tell me the size/length of those bolts?

I called them and asked and got the following

six - 5/16 x 24 x 1 1/4 long, and
four - 3/8 x 24 x 1 1/4 long

The bolts in the pictures you have in post 39 look to be longer than 1 1/4 inch
I would say 1 1/4 in thread length sounds about right.
 
Well I made it out to my first event of the year, my local no prep/ pour your own puddle (PYOP) event that DetroithoodTV puts on every month or so. This time was a little bit different, as the track they usually use is shut down, so they lined something up with a different track that hasn't had any passes on it for over two years. I entered the hardtire class which had by far the most cars in it I have ever seen at their events, 18 car field.

It was a successful outing, with a couple battles for sure. I ended up winning the class, but I randomly failed a cam angle sensor between rounds (thankfully I packed my spare), and was battling this DAMN shift box again. As the day went on it seems like the shift box just kept wanting to short shift, I just don't get it and am getting very frustrated with this thing. Thankfully Forcedfour is willing to work with me on trying to find out just why this thing is doing this. Long story short, I try to target 8500-8700 shift points, and this thing was shifting 1-2 at 7000 and 2-3 at 6950 in the finals, not good. Thankfully this car makes a good amount of steam and I was able to overcome this.

I would really like to try and step into the small tire class just to see how far behind these guys I am, as they are FASSST, but this shifting issue NEEDS to be sorted out before I event think about tossing the Hoosiers on.

Anyway I had a blast, and the turn out was amazing for these guys. Met some really cool people at this event and of course took home some cash with the win. Here's a couple videos I was able to get together to post up. Finals was up against a nitrous powered c4 Vette, really cool guy that has been doing very well in the hardtire classes. He was on a hurt rear differential so that def sucks. I raced a couple modded duramax trucks and also a nice 90s formula.

In cabin run vs one of the duramax trucks, shifting points were OK here:


In cabin run of the finals, shifting points were NOT OK here LOL:


and an outside view of the finals with the GoPro fusion:


185034618_559688892086025_4127815157498651691_n.jpg


186219817_477000240193393_6286500283933575944_n.jpg



If I get to uploading any other videos I'll post them up.

Thanks for looking!
 
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while your running 9s and having shift box issues, I am just trying to keep my car running LOL.
Congrats on the Win.
I am still looking for DSM mechanic/tuners all in one [knowledge] where I live. I know two very good shops but they are always booked and have no time to tech an old guy on set up and tune.

back to the point Congrats on your Win.
 
Hi all,

Went back to the track for my monthly local no prep/ PYOP event, and took the win again in hard tire with a new set of issues! SMH :banghead:. It was a super hot day, I didn't check DA but I'm sure it was trash so I want to thank my friends who came out and stuck it out with me.

Onto problem number 1: The car was pushing coolant all day so that wasn't fun to manage and the head will be coming off in the next couple weeks. I'll bring it up to the shop to check for flatness and have surfaced if needed. I will be going to try out the SCE vulcan cut ring headgasket this time around.

Next problem: Seems like the shift box is still shifting short, but I haven't been able to 100% confirm this. I rewired the RPM signal wire and put a resistor inline as suggested to clean up the signal if it was choppy at all. It seems to have improved, but still didn't have me shifting at my target of 8500-8700 rpm. Weird, because my test hit on the street to test my changes before the race had me shifting really close to my shift points. The only difference with my test hit is my boost was down a bit compared to what I run at the track, and the test hit was from a roll, so I'm really not sure what to think there.

Next NEW issue: it seems that the shift box had me launching in 2nd gear most of the day :banghead:. I haven't ran into this problem until now. I do use the "stall up mode" feature on this shift box. The box sees brake signal and with set parameters knows to hold the car in 2nd gear while getting on the converter, this pretty much ensures you will not pull through the brakes. Once you let off the brake, the shift box is supposed to shift the trans back down into 1st gear for your launch, and I'm pretty sure it has been working fine until this last weekend. After speaking a bit with ForcedFour, we believe they found what the issue was and why this was happeneing, and working on a solution to correct it. Should be good to go next time around.

I plan on trying to get away from using the RPM up-shifter on the shift box, which sucks because it's what I'm used to using and have been doing it this way for years now with the old box (DSM plus-2)... I sold the plus-2 awhile ago so I can't reinstall it, else I 100% would. I'll be trying to dial in shift points using the speed based shift maps once the car is ready for testing and just pray to the shift gods it works and is consistant 🙏. It's been pretty frustrating, and I'm reallly reallly lucky that this box hasn't cost me two events.

Anyway, went a total of 4 rounds.

Round 1 vs a heavily modded diesel truck. He had problems spooling at the line and the light was on before he could get up on converter. Cool guy, I hope to have a clean pass with him in the future. This is the only run the car launched out in 1st gear, and I also highly suspect it did this only because the shift box's stall up mode did NOT engage at all.

Round 2 vs a boosted Chrylser 300, I do not have any footage of this run, but it was actually the closest race of the day for me. I turned everything down and it almost bit me in the ass. This is also the run that car started to launch out in second gear, and did so for the rest of the event. I learned a very important lesson on this run, and that's to never judge a book by it's cover.

Round 3 vs a modded Trailhawk. Car launched out in 2nd gear, trail hawk knocked the tire off but recovered quickly, and the rest you can see in the video.

Round 4 (finals) vs my buddy Craig's red EVO. Awesome fp black car, he bogged the launch pretty hard. I gotta give it to him and our other buddy John with a yellow evo being out there trying to hit a light on a clutch and bang gears, this type of racing is hard to be super competitive in and do all that.

I'm no video editor, but here's what I tossed together to try and not post 5 videos like I normally do LOL




View attachment 632466

View attachment 632467
 
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while your running 9s and having shift box issues, I am just trying to keep my car running LOL.
Congrats on the Win.
I am still looking for DSM mechanic/tuners all in one [knowledge] where I live. I know two very good shops but they are always booked and have no time to tech an old guy on set up and tune.

back to the point Congrats on your Win.
Get ahold of Smiley AutoWerks in Kyle, Texas. Not sure if that was one of your two shops.
 
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