1G Loud knocking/thudding on acceleration

[Funky Geko]

So I got the car running, put in the new squirters and new timing belt etc but whenever I first fired it up it had this intermittent knocking sound. Drove it around a bit, went on the highway and off and it got a lot worse after getting off the highway. When I begin to accelerate, it's not very noticeable, but when I push the clutch pedal in to shift it gets REALLY LOUD and then kinda quiet end up when I let the clutch out and into gear, or press the brakes. The wheels are tight (and it makes the sound but not as loud when sitting still), the crank pulley is also new (fluidampr with the longer ARP studs) as well as the tensionor, alternator, power steering pump rebuilt and all new belts. I'be read that the crank pulley could be rubbing or a piston rod bearing may be toast, I took a video that demonstrates the sound. And it's only getting worse, please help!

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[o0GuitarKid0o]

Did your buddy reuse the hydraulic tensioner? Did he use a vise to reset it? If so you cannot go fast when pushing the tensioner down to put the grenade pin back in. (Ps A small drill bit will work as a pin)
And you can even find a drill bit that measures between 3.8mm -4.5mm to check spec. I used a bunch of feeler gauges on mine

Also

When I did my timing belt I was able to reinsert the grenade pin back in after rotating the motor 12 times .

 

[Funky Geko]

Did your buddy reuse the hydraulic tensioner? Did he use a vise to reset it? If so you cannot go fast when pushing the tensioner down to put the grenade pin back in. (Ps A small drill bit will work as a pin)
And you can even find a drill bit that measures between 3.8mm -4.5mm to check spec. I used a bunch of feeler gauges on mine

Also

When I did my timing belt I was able to reinsert the grenade pin back in after rotating the motor 12 times .

It was a brand new tensioner, and we did not try putting the pin back in honestly.

 

[Mello]

Your replies to the many questions in this here thread are making me think that you & your friend did not do the timing belt maintenance correctly and or per the Mits maintenance instructions. Go through this link for the proper way to do a timing belt https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/timing-belt-tensioning-tips-for-4g63-turbo.214625/

If your lucky & caught this in time all you'll need to do is redo your timing belt the correct way. It sounds like you may be lucky.

First thing I learned when I purchased my car was one must learn how to do as much of everyhing possible yourself. If you have any questions the answers are in this site. If you must have someone do the wrenching you will only be able to tell if they qualified if you can do the work yourself first. Most local "mechanics" are not qualified & if they say otherwise they are propably full of crap. This also includes most of the Mits stealerships too. If you do not have the time or can not do it yourself think about selling your car to some that can & will. The only other option is to ship what's needing fixed to one of the few professional vendors who advertise & support this site & truly know these cars. Lastly this site is godsend for those willing to learn, turn some wrenches, get a little dirty, & DIY. Good luck.

 

[ohlegend]

How many teeth were the cam gears off from being aligned? Also is no one else going to mention anything about the metal shavings found in the pan? I would drop the pan and pull off the bottom connecting rod caps and check the bearings. Metal in the oil is never good.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

How many teeth were the cam gears off from being aligned? Also is no one else going to mention anything about the metal shavings found in the pan? I would drop the pan and pull off the bottom connecting rod caps and check the bearings. Metal in the oil is never good.

No it's not but I did mention in post #4 that he should open up his oil filter . One step at a time.
it could just be flashing that found it's way into the pan or it could be a complete ticking time bomb and needs a full rebuild .

Just waiting for gecko to take some pics of everything and up load them.
Hell my 300,000km motor had a peice of flashing stuck in the baffle of my oil pan but never made it's way into anything. Do to the oil pick up screen

Only one journal bearing had a small line that passed the finger nail test on mine. And zero scoring on the crank and measured to spec.

Cutting the oil filter will help see if the motors completely screwed, it didnt seem like the oil was glittery when he mentioned it so let's hope he just found a flashing that came loose .

He needs to remove the driver side motor mount and all pulleys and timing cover.

 

[Funky Geko]

Bumping old thread - the timing belt was retensioned (wasn't properly tensioned) and it ran fine BUT we did a comp test and saw that it was 120 in two of the cylinders so tore the whole damn thing apart and yeah looked like an oil spuirter went to town in the rotating parts as well as the rings were fried, the pistons were getting chewed and so on SO the block is still waiting to get back from the machine shop and I've already got the head back with all new valves/springs/guideseals/decked/etc BUT the shop has had the block for about 6 months and now they aren't calling back and are closed due to the pandemic so I'm just trying to get some more non-factory parts lined up for when I do finally get the block back. Thank you all again for the help based upon my vague and picture-less descriptions.