Lost All Clutch Pressure.....Again

[habitatguy187]

Alright, 5 days after I got the car going from the clutch job all my clutch pressure bled out somewhere, I tried bleeding it for about half an hour to no avail, so I just went and bought a new master cylinder, now, 9 days after the new master cylinder I went out to start the car and same thing Mad . There's no fluid anywhere, waddaya think could be causing this?

The first time it bled out in less than 4 hours, this time it was overnight, both times I found no fluid. I really need to get this fixed cause I don't want to drive somewhere far and have this happen, but after some searching I don't really know of anything besides replace the master again.

The slave cylinder is new also.

 

[Talon64]

First I would look under the car to see if you see any leaks. Also pull back your slave boot to see if its leaking there. If you replaced the master next thing would be the slave. You also could have broke the line somewhere also. Extremepsi also sell a complete stainless steel line that goes from your slave to your master. First step is to see if there any breaks in the line. Also just check your slave. Make sure that bleeder is tight

 

[Calan]

Besides what Talon64 said, look to see if fluid is leaking from the master and going down behind your floor mat up under the dash. You can lose fluid there and not find it until it soaks through the floor mats.

 

[LCWDSM]

+1 for calan, thats where i found my problem, lucky i was installing my NON curise cable & it didnt reach the floor mats. Sounds like the slave tho...

 

[habitatguy187]

I checked it some more today on lunch and again found no leaks anywhere, I pulled back the boot on both the master and the slave and both were dry.

And I know this sounds weird but when I start the car in neutral the pedal feels like it has even less pressure than when the car's off

 

[Talon64]

When was the clutch changed. Could be a pressure plate problem. When I changed my slave I noticed my line was twisting when I tried taking it off. So I replaced it because It wasnt that great. Also I dont know about the 1g's but the 2gs have an actuator that supposely helps the trans. That might have went. Also did you properly adjust your clutch pedal?

 

[Calan]

Is your reservoir staying full during all this, or are you having to add fluid?

 

[habitatguy187]

Is your reservoir staying full during all this, or are you having to add fluid?

It hasn't budged a bit, although I adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal (the rod on the master is already all the way out) and it's drivable for now, but it's not like it was (nor like it should be)

I forgot to bleed it yesterday but I'll try to get to that soon.

 

[habitatguy187]

Alright so I've figured out what's going on with the car (kinda)

When I start it cold the clutch pedal is real light and engages right off the floor, but once the car gets good and warm, or especially after a good highway drive, the clutch gets stiffer and engages about 3" off the floor, about 4-5 inches off the floor after a long highway drive.

What the heck is this? I was thinking I need a SS clutch line but it seems like those would actually expand under the heat, causing less clutch pedal

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I am having the same problem. Any stuck clutch pedal? I just replaced my slave, bleed it, worked for a few pumps and then, nothing. Now there is no fluid coming out from slave cylinder.
HELP!!!!

 

[PieEyedPiper]

You've both inspected the rubber line connecting the top half of the metal line to the clutch fluid accumulator?

 

[turboglenn]

Have you checked the condition of the clutch fork pivot ball...WHen it's worn the fork can move sideways and cause the rod to extend fully out of the slave cylinder and not even push on the actuall clutch... I had a mystery clutch tthat was coming and going for a few days...checked it out and found that i couild wiggle the arm/fork all over the place, and when testing that against a friends car with the same clutch and all the same basic swaps i found his stayed perfectly tight and only moved the direction it was supposed to...

When i got it apaprt the clutch ball was actually broken off the stud that holds it in the trans...replaced that, the arm/fork (it was cheap and mine had the ball broken off in it) and for good measure I replaced the TOB and it's been good since

 

[92 GSR-4]

Have you checked the condition of the clutch fork pivot ball...WHen it's worn the fork can move sideways and cause the rod to extend fully out of the slave cylinder and not even push on the actuall clutch... I had a mystery clutch tthat was coming and going for a few days...checked it out and found that i couild wiggle the arm/fork all over the place, and when testing that against a friends car with the same clutch and all the same basic swaps i found his stayed perfectly tight and only moved the direction it was supposed to...

When i got it apaprt the clutch ball was actually broken off the stud that holds it in the trans...replaced that, the arm/fork (it was cheap and mine had the ball broken off in it) and for good measure I replaced the TOB and it's been good since

+1

The fork could be bent also, check that out. The old part number for a 1G clutch fork got updated to the 2G style as they are less prone to bending.

 

[Black99gst]

what about peddle adjustment? the master cylinder needs free space at the top of the peddle, because when pressing the peddle, the master cylinder pushes the fluid out of the cylinder, down the line to the slave. but it will not pull in more fluid until it is fully open, i would suggest adjusting the clutch peddle FIRST before trying to spend any money on something that could be fixed for free. engagement should be closer the the floor, with free-play in the top of the peddle. since no fluid is bleeding for the lines. you keep saying theirs no more fluid, but the fluid reservoir is full. this leads me to believe that the master cylinder is not adjusted properly, and allowing fluid from the reservoir, into the cylinder, down the clutch line to the slave. hope that helps