The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Looking for 4g64/g4cs answers? LOOK HERE!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Can anyone clarify on the crank timing plate?

I'm going to buy a friends G4CS and wasn't clear on which timing plate to use? Or are they the same? It would suck to get my engine together only to foul the valves and everything else up on initial start-up. I think I read only ONE person said to use te G4CS crank timing plate, but I just want to verify with everyone else who has one running.

Thanks.

my_gst95
 
Injected said:
1. The G4CS is the same block as the 4G63, just 6mm taller. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to just share platforms. Mitsubishi has done this with Chrysler-Dodge-Eagle and Hyundai for years. If they are actually the same engine block, the castings would be the same, right? That would also explain why everything from the 6-bolt 4G63 transfers over.

3. The extra 6mm (in both directions) allows for the use of the 100mm stroke using the 2.4L crankshaft (100mm stroke) which can be found in either the G4CS, or the 6-bolt 4G64 found in the Galant. The best way to do this is order a factory fresh 6-bolt 4G64 crankshaft.

6. Factory pistons from the 1G will yield a very high compression ratio. Use of aftermarket, super low compression pistons will correct that. If the block is the same, then couldn't you use any super low compression 4G63 pistons?

I'm not real knowledgable on the G4CS but the 4g64 has a larger bore than the 4G63. Also the 100mm crank can be used in the 4g63 which makes the 2.3l stroker. So for the pistons you can not use the factory 1g pistons because they are the wrong bore.
 
my_gst95 said:
Can anyone clarify on the crank timing plate?

I'm going to buy a friends G4CS and wasn't clear on which timing plate to use? Or are they the same? It would suck to get my engine together only to foul the valves and everything else up on initial start-up. I think I read only ONE person said to use te G4CS crank timing plate, but I just want to verify with everyone else who has one running.

Thanks.

my_gst95


Use everything off of a 4g63 except for the cam gears and timing belt. The stock SOHC pulleys, timing plate and all that will not work. I tried. The balance shaft crank gear has the wrong spacing on it and makes the timing belt ride out towards the edge of cam gears, I can't remember what was wrong with the crank timing belt gear, but I'm pretty sure it was wrong. The crank timing plate causes piston on valve contact.

Always turn the motor over by hand if you've been messing with the timing belt to make sure everything is right.
 
When you say 4g63 you mean a 6 bolt right? Will the mitsubishi balance shaft elimination kit for a 6 bolt 4g63 work on a 4gcs?

To the guys with 2.4's:

What are your track times? Any dyno results? Have you run into any problems? What clutch do you guys recommend to handle the extra torque?
 
Turbocharged said:
When you say 4g63 you mean a 6 bolt right? Will the mitsubishi balance shaft elimination kit for a 6 bolt 4g63 work on a 4gcs?

Yes, the Mitsubishi parts for eliminating the balance shafts in a 6 bolt 4G63 will work in the G4CS. That is what I used. Whenever I said "4G63", I mean the 6 bolt turbocharged 4G63 engine, that came stock in my 91 Eagle Talon TSi.
 
have any of the guys that were building the 2.4l or the 2.3 stroker been successful since this thread was started. i would love to see their posts on the results
 
unlmtdndeavor said:
have any of the guys that were building the 2.4l or the 2.3 stroker been successful since this thread was started. i would love to see their posts on the results
mine starts and idles fine. i havent had a chance to run it yet though. probably next week. its the same as a 2.0 for all intents and purposes though. no smoke or illusions here.
 
never got to the project thanks to my super-slow machinist. i'm probably not going to get a chance to work on it until next winter. i'm thinking about just sending all my stuff to ffwd and having them build it. we'll see...
 
My 4gcs will be installed within the next month. Ill let you know how it goes...

Just one question to you 4gcs guys. There are two holes in my block that need to be plugged. There is one in the front of the block (easy to block) and there is one in the back of the block that goes into the balance shaft bearing journals. I dont understand why there is a hole here. It is very shallow and Im trying to figure out how to plug it without making it so that I cant fit the balance shaft bearing in. How did you guys solve this problem. I will be using the BS bearing from the BS elimination kit, so it will help seal the hole as well...

Also, has anyone mounted their knock sensor in the threaded hole for the intake manifold bracket? Im refering to the bracket that bolts to the bolt and the bottom of the intake manifold. The threads are the same size and pitch and the hole is right between cylinder 2 and 3. Its close to the stock location for a 6 bolt 4g63. Im not going to be using the IM bracket anyways so this seems to make the most sense...
 
Turbocharged said:
My 4gcs will be installed within the next month. Ill let you know how it goes...

Just one question to you 4gcs guys. There are two holes in my block that need to be plugged. There is one in the front of the block (easy to block) and there is one in the back of the block that goes into the balance shaft bearing journals. I dont understand why there is a hole here. It is very shallow and Im trying to figure out how to plug it without making it so that I cant fit the balance shaft bearing in. How did you guys solve this problem. I will be using the BS bearing from the BS elimination kit, so it will help seal the hole as well...

if you're talking about the hole that supplies oil to the balance shaft, just turn the bearing so it blocks the hole. that should be sufficient. that's what you're supposed to do anyway, isn't it? if there is another hole, then i'm not sure what you're talking about. i can look at my block when i get home tonight and see if i can figure out what you're talking about.
 
anubis said:
if you're talking about the hole that supplies oil to the balance shaft, just turn the bearing so it blocks the hole. that should be sufficient. that's what you're supposed to do anyway, isn't it? if there is another hole, then i'm not sure what you're talking about. i can look at my block when i get home tonight and see if i can figure out what you're talking about.


Sorry, I should have been more specific:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
Look at the third picture from the bottom where it says:

"Here is a closeup of the front balance shaft bearing. The water pump would be in the upper right of the pic if it were installed. Note the screw in plug on the left (circled) - that is to allow the factory to drill the oilfeed hole from the bearing journal into the oil galley."

The "screw in plug" is missing from my block and the hole is very shallow. I am unsure what to plug it with that wont hit the block off bearing. Any suggestions? Im thinking a very small bolt with RTV or threadlock... or I could see if the machine shop could weld it shut...

Anyone tried the knock sensor location that Im looking at?
 
Turbocharged said:
The "screw in plug" is missing from my block and the hole is very shallow. I am unsure what to plug it with that wont hit the block off bearing. Any suggestions? Im thinking a very small bolt with RTV or threadlock... or I could see if the machine shop could weld it shut...

that sucks. you can block that however you want. doesn't make a difference, as long as it won't back out later down the road. think about whether or not you're ever going to want to remove it for some reason or another later and make your decision.

sorry i can't help with your other question as i've not gotten that far. i am curious to know if it will work though...
 
anubis said:
that sucks. you can block that however you want. doesn't make a difference, as long as it won't back out later down the road. think about whether or not you're ever going to want to remove it for some reason or another later and make your decision.

sorry i can't help with your other question as i've not gotten that far. i am curious to know if it will work though...


If nobody responds about the knock sensor location I think Im just going to use the manifold bracket hole. I dont know what hole near cylinder #1 that everyone is talking about. Its supposed to be by an A/C bracket near the front case?
 
Turbocharged said:
If nobody responds about the knock sensor location I think Im just going to use the manifold bracket hole. I dont know what hole near cylinder #1 that everyone is talking about. Its supposed to be by an A/C bracket near the front case?
thats where im putting it. i know of several people that put it htere. ive only heard one bad story from doing this.
 
mines still together.A good 8000 miles into it now.Love the power torque.Jm fabrications intake manifold is going on next week,to help with the heavy breathing of the turbo,cams,ported head.Soon after i got a nice tubular manifold going on,and might be switching up turbos.....but we shall see on that one.

car rips,got some videos of illegal racing with it,but i wont post em.Pump gas it rips enough to take out 98% of what pulls up next to you.
 
My 2.4 is done at machine shop and coming home in a few days for final assembly.Unfortunately have a few questions still after reading this whole thread.
I have a G4CS 90 hyunda sonata 2.4 block.

Questions I have 91 timing wheel. Thought read someone say to use 93 94 or to use the 93 to 94 marks? and thought someone else said no problem with 91 timing thing.
Which is right? I realize throw away the G4CS stuff.
Also someone is trying to tell me I have to clearance the oil pan for the 2.4 due ot the crank hitting it..yes or no..I realize to use a 2.0 6 bolt oil pan and have one. The 2.4 pan has no turbo return holes.
So does the oil pan need clearancing or is that only in the 2.3 engines.?
 
If you have a 2.0 6 bolt oilpan, that will work with no "clearancing". Just bolt it on and you will be fine. I transferred mine over from my original 91 6 bolt 2.0 engine to the G4CS with no problems.
As far as the timing marks go, I just bought some AEM adjustable cam gears, to replace the 91 timing gears. As far as I know, the marks on the 91 cam gears will not line up correctly with the G4CS setup.
 
Umm have a 2.0 6 bolt oil pan like you do.Not sure why guys are saying with 1g oil pan you have to clearance mabye they had 7 bolt oil pans?
Also I have the 2.4 timing gears.Talking the timing wheel on the crank! Did you use a 91 timing wheel on the crank and just set it to the 91 marks or did you use a different year of timing wheel?
 
Make your own timing mark on the crank pulley (not the sprocket for the timing belt). You will need to do this to set up the ignition timing. Just put an extension down the #1 spark plug hole and rotate the motor until it is at TDC and make the mark accordingly. I find this to be the easiest way to set up timing when installing the belt as well. I didnt even look at the marks on the crankshaft sprocket.

The 6 bolt oil pan works just fine. The 7 bolt oil pan will not work.
 
Guys couple more questions..there is no oil separator in my 2.4 main seal housing.Do I need to use my housing off the 2.0 or just use the 2.4 housing?
Also I bought brand new mits front cover and oil pump gears.Do I have to put vaseline in there.I am worried about getting something in my new off the head FP3065 oil feeline filter.
Can I not worry about putting extra stuff on the new oil pump gears.I will turn over engine without plus or injectors firing of course first.
 
Ok here's a couple quick questions

1. Are the pistons from a G4CS the same as the 4g64?

2. If I go 20 over what size would that translate to if I ordered a cometic hg (which if I remember correctly only have 4g63 not 4g64)

3. Does anyone have a pic of their "re-marking" the cam gears. I have some new fidenzas sitting around the garage and would like to use them
 
AL92 said:
Guys couple more questions..there is no oil separator in my 2.4 main seal housing.Do I need to use my housing off the 2.0 or just use the 2.4 housing?
Also I bought brand new mits front cover and oil pump gears.Do I have to put vaseline in there.I am worried about getting something in my new off the head FP3065 oil feeline filter.
Can I not worry about putting extra stuff on the new oil pump gears.I will turn over engine without plus or injectors firing of course first.

Yes use the oil separator just like you would with any 6 or 7 bolt build. I used the then entire 6 bolt rear main seal housing/separator.

I used assembly lube on the oil pump gears. You dont need to "pack" the gears like everyone says, you just need to get a of film lubrication to help make a seal for the pump. You dont want dry gears.
 
PokinatchaPunk said:
Ok here's a couple quick questions

1. Are the pistons from a G4CS the same as the 4g64?

2. If I go 20 over what size would that translate to if I ordered a cometic hg (which if I remember correctly only have 4g63 not 4g64)

3. Does anyone have a pic of their "re-marking" the cam gears. I have some new fidenzas sitting around the garage and would like to use them

Please search... yes the pistons are the same and you are going to want an 87mm or 88mm HG. I went with a "custom" 88mm HG because of the excessive chamfer on the cylinders. Just call cometic, they will make custom sized gaskets.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top