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Anyone take or seen pics of the mods you need to do to the lower timing cover on a 2g 6 bolt swap? I want to be as neat as possible with my dremel.
 
I had talked to Jackson Auto Machine yesterday about machining my g4cs block, they recommended I keep the b-shafts and machine the block for oil squirters. Is it a bad idea to remove the balance shafts? Has anyone had any problems w/o them on thier g4cs? I have always removed them when I do a t-belt on a 4g63 and really don't want them in the g4cs if I don't need them.
 
I took them out of my 2.4 build.I used a fluidampr balancer.Factory balancers are garbage had a few come apart in my various dsms at random mileage.
I didn't balance engine which maybe I should have done. I heard that aftermarket parts are pretty close in balance already and also heard you had to balance the clutch and flywheel and didn't even have them when I did the engine and besides what if I change my clutch and flywheel. And most guys don't balance their engine after they take out the balance shafts in a 2.0.

I don't get much vibration at idle..my mirrors are clear. I don't seem to get much thru the range but may get a bit of something at 3500 or so but it seems to smooth out at higher rpm.I am not sure if that 3500 resonance is from 3 inch exhaust and no cat though or maybe from something else entirely. vibration from 3000 up is not that extreme either mirrors are still clear nothing in the car is shaking to pieces.
I have poly energy supension rollstop inserts front and back and that may also be some of the resonance ,vibration.

So I think its maybe a good idea to balance the engine but I don't agree with jackson and many others don't either that you have to leave the balance shafts in the motor.
I have seen balance shaft bearings go bad and seen many pics of what a broken balance belt does to a engine if it messes up the timing belt.
Lots of companies like FFWD and think magnus build 2.4 with no balance shafts.Most don't put in oil squirters either. They are not supposed to be very necessary in forged piston motors for sure.And one more thing to clog /mess up.
Its too bad they dont make kevlar belts for the 2.4 engines just the 2.0 and 2.3 .It would be nice to have kevlar timing belt for extra piece of mind and then maybe would have used balance shafts in the 2.4 if could have at least used kevlar balance belt. But there would still be the bearing failure problem from the shafts.

I have about 2000 miles on my 2.4 since started it up. So far no problems really except that 3500 resonance /vibration thing.
 
kicker91laser said:
I had talked to Jackson Auto Machine yesterday about machining my g4cs block, they recommended I keep the b-shafts and machine the block for oil squirters. Is it a bad idea to remove the balance shafts? Has anyone had any problems w/o them on thier g4cs? I have always removed them when I do a t-belt on a 4g63 and really don't want them in the g4cs if I don't need them.

Do you mind me asking what they quoted you for this? I'm going to have JAM do my 4gcs this winter since they are less than an hour away. And since mine is going to be more of a street motor I want to retain the squiters and balancer shafts.
 
They quoted me $730 to do the block machining, that included everything that is in their 4g63 stage two block prep (accept for installing b/s elim kit) as well as machining the block to accept the factory oil squirters.
 
I just lost my whole 2.4 bottom end. Under 2k at this point never saw over 20 psi on a 60-1 pulled the pan and it was full of copper colored bearings. Not good...

Pulling the rest of the motor tonight looks like the mains are shot. Not sure what happened yet.

Whole assembly was balanced at time of build, new mitsu oil pump, eagle rods, wiseco pistons. Will post pics when we get it out.
 
I have aquired a 3g 2.4L 4g64 complete engine
Does anyone have any info or can you direct me to the right person/website for putting a 1g dohc head on it?

I have ink transferred the deck surfaces to a paper and matched the oil galleys and water holes. All but a couple line up.
I am pretty sure this will work, but want to be 100% sure before I start spending money.

Thanks
 
I have aquired a 3g 2.4L 4g64 complete engine
Does anyone have any info or can you direct me to the right person/website for putting a 1g dohc head on it?

I have ink transferred the deck surfaces to a paper and matched the oil galleys and water holes. All but a couple line up.
I am pretty sure this will work, but want to be 100% sure before I start spending money.

Thanks

May I help you?

There was a young man in autoshop who reported had no oil pressure. His teacher confirmed same, 2-3 tear downs later zero results. Somebody was not telling the truth. You have oil or not, while I doubt gaskets are your problem and if you have read my responses, start a new subject and send a heads up. If I think you are spoofing me, if I think you are from a TV show I will do my best to discredit.

I suggest START a new subject, I will help you but I have a short fuse for amatures who have made this 200 riplies long. No I do not give private consultation.

GTM
 
First of all, learn some tactfulness instead of immediately trying to degrade someone that
you know nothing of.

A simple yes or no about this engine would have been fine.

Amature?? HARDLY not.. I dont call 9 years as a Helicopter Mechanic an Amature.
Next time before you make the assumption about someone you dont even know, hold your tongue.
-----------------------

Now, anyone having experience about a 3rd generation mitsubishi eclipse engine (4g64)
send me a message and let me know what the outcome was.
 
I just lost my whole 2.4 bottom end. Under 2k at this point never saw over 20 psi on a 60-1 pulled the pan and it was full of copper colored bearings. Not good...

Pulling the rest of the motor tonight looks like the mains are shot. Not sure what happened yet.

Whole assembly was balanced at time of build, new mitsu oil pump, eagle rods, wiseco pistons. Will post pics when we get it out.

So what ended up being the problem?
 
Your question is a little vague. Are you talking about the timing belt for a G4CS or the timing belt for a 4G63? If you are talking about which timing belt to use on an engine consisting of a G4CS block and everything else from a 4G63 (head, etc.) then the correct timing belt to use is already listed in this thread. It is the timing belt from a 94 Galant GS.
 
1. How is everyone's engine holding up? what piston and rods did you put in and how much boost/power are you making for how long?

2. Since I have a 7-bolt, when installing the engine do I need to follow the 6-bolt install guide and use the parts your suppose to use to make a 6-bolt fit in a 2g?

3. Would I have to modify the engine to fit a 7-bolt head?

3. What about the downpipe meeting with the exhaust since the engine is taller?

Krummel21
 
I dont have mine going just yet but have friends that have 20,000 or so on them running 20ish psi on a 50 trim. Most are running eagle or scat rods with weisco pistons

The 7-bolt is bolt in, no wiring differences and no 6-bolt swap crap. All you have to do is plug the drain holes on the top of the block and bolt the 2g head on.

I have been running a 2.4 for 3 years and ran an evo III mani, turbo, and o2 housing and a Megan racing dp for the 2.0 and I dont have any trouble.
 
There are no kevlar timing belts available as far as I know for the 2.4 6 bolts anyway. With a 2.3 build you just use the 2.0 belt.I wanted a kevlar belt but out of luck.
Also eagle makes forged cranks for good price I would have also used one of those but they came out just after my engine was done.
I would like to hear from more of you 2.4 6 bolt guys. How many miles you have and what rpm you have set for max. I have mine at 8000 and have bumped it a few times but usually try to shift around 7000. Just wonder if should go down to 7500 or even 7000 redline but my turbo and sheet metal intake and cams just rev so quickly.
I have 3500 miles on my engine,its been run at 20psi mostly and no problems to report so far. Just a bit paranoid 8000 redline is too high.I have built motor with forged rods and pistons and crower stage 3 cams and crower springs.
 
wondering how come my 4g63 belt works on this 4g64/4g63 swap?
Your tensioner is probably close to being all the way pushed in and the belt is probably very tight. -Unless the deck and head were shaved and you used a thin HG. The two belts are actually pretty close in length, about a centimeter or so difference I think.
 
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