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4g64, g4cs, g64b cranks

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afsdsm

10+ Year Contributor
82
1
May 28, 2009
Jupiter, Florida
I have been doing some research on cranks for stroking the 4g63. In another thread someone mentioned that there is a difference between the three. Can anyone tell me what the difference is, coating, hardness, strength? When does a forged crank become necessary (HP). How might these cranks compare to the 4g63 crank in terms of strength. Also, does anyone have part numbers for these cranks.
 
Stock cranks have held a TON of power. at least 9-second passes, could even be 8-second passes (not sure if Kiggly is runninf an OEM crank or not anymore).

4g64 crank is a 7-bolt crank, g4cs crank is a 6-bolt motor, not sure about the other one.
 
Actually some early model 4g64's were 6bolts. I am aware of how much power has been made on a stock 4g63 crank, hence my question, How might these cranks compare to the 4g63 crank in terms of strength. Does anyone know if there's a difference in strength between the three? Wisemen?
 
I was talking about oem 4g64/g4cs cranks that handle that power. I know some evo guys that are in the low 10s/9s on oem 4g64 cranks

Yes thats why before i grab a g4cs (hundiya) crank, i want to make sure it's not weaker than the mitsu 4g64, g64b variants. As i mentioned above, someone in another thread on the subject mentioned that there may be a difference.
 
The 92 Mitsu Expo van. :thumb:

I have an article on my shelf of a silver 2g with a 700whp 2.4 stroker built with a junkyard crank from a 4g64. If your interested in a 4g64 6 bolt crank let me know. I have one that I pulled from an 89 mitsubishi van with 116k on it with a broken timing belt. I had a plans of a 2.4 stroker for the street but decided to stick with a 2.0 for the rev potential and ease of build. You have to do some slight clearencing when building a stroker motor. As far as strength differences I'm not sure though but for 700whp on a junkyard crank I would think there isn't an issue.
 
I was running an untouched OEM mitsu crank last year. I'm going to try an Eagle this season. I don't trust the OEM crank after it spit a rod out. The journals are all still fine, but I just don't trust it after the impact.

Kevin
 
^^^Proof right there that they can handle some serious power. Thanks for chiming in Kevin.

Not all blocks have to be "trimmed out" for a different crank btw.
 
I found a g64b 6bolt crank from NAPA for $200 (obviously a reman). does that mean its already been cut? Is that good or bad? Kevin stated that he was running a MITSU crank, my question was, is there a difference between the three, 4g64, and g64b (mitsu), and g4cs (hyundai)?
 
I'm running a brand new OEM 4g64 crank that hasn't been uncut. I'm pretty sure all the cranks have the same finish on the outside that hardens the crank. Some people say don't run a crank thats been turned, but there have been tons of fast cars running cut cranks.

I've actually never heard of anyone running the g64b cranks. I know lots of people running the g4cs cranks though. Are they the same crank, different part numbers and came in different cars?
 
I believe the g64b is the same as a 4g64 6bolt (both mitsu 2.4 6bolt). The funny thing is, NAPA list's the the crank as, also hyundai sonata 88-91 exept 89 g4cs. It doesn't even mention 4g64. I think this is because, the 4g64 6bolt is extremely rare. This would also explain why some argue that there wasn't a 4g64 6bolt. I am really becoming annoyed with crank shopping. If money wasn't a issue, i would just pick up a eagle or a new oem and be done with it.
 
I'm going to join in on this because nobody is giving me any info that I need. I need to develop a quick and cheap bandaid motor able to withstand stock boost pressure just for daily drivability. And there are no 4g63's at the local u pull yard. However there is one G54B from an Expo and one G4CS from a Elantra. I am interested in doing a 2.4 as my main built motor but right now I have no choice but to go ahead with it....

And I've heard rumors of this "forged OEM G54B Crankshaft"... is it true?
 
Ok. So will a 6 bolt 4g64 crank will fit in a 6 bolt 4g63 block.

Anyone know. That would be helpful for me.
 
yes a 6 bolt 4g64 crank fits in a 6 bolt 4g63 block, thats what i run. Depending on what rods you use u will have to do some grinding in the block to make the rods clear. :thumb: also, i use a cut crank, i dont recommend it but i havent had any problems in 10,000mi (knock on wood) its just really important to make sure you use a GOOD crank shop to cut it. i went threw m2 racesystems for all my machine work( they do alot of brent rau's stuff) and they sent it out to The Crank Shop in montgomery ny, they know about the fillet radius that needs to be on the bearing journals. they also cut the crank that went into dogboxracings red race talon that went 9.0 @ 160mph, and had a alot of passes on it. I guess its hit or miss with a cut crank, but you cant go wrong with a CLEAN uncut mitsu crank
 
Found a wideblock 4G64 with a 6 Bolt crank in the junkyard today. Block says 4G64 on it and crank says 64 on it too... I have two cranks here one from that and another from a 80's van, both wideblock 6 bolts. The van crank looks like the counter weights are thinner, have more balance holes and doesnt say 64. This one I just picked up is thicker, less balance spots and says 64. Any reason why not all 64 cranks say 64?
 
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