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Eagle Cranks

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InvaderGSX

15+ Year Contributor
135
2
Jul 16, 2004
Kentwood, Michigan
Eagle has some new cranks and I want to get one. I am staying with 7 bolt because I have an automatic. I blew up my engine last weekend where the rod went through the block and blasted my started into 3 pieces! That's what happens if you car was detonating at 110 mph...... Anyways I am doing a complete built motor. I don't trust any stock cranks even if they are machined because I have been through a lot of motors. Anyways the new Eagle cranks is what I am interested in. They come in 3 choices: 88mm, 94mm and 100mm. I know the 88mm is for 2.0 and the 100mm is for 2.4 stroker, but what will the 94mm do? I have titanium retainers and Manley springs, so I don't want to go to a full 2.4.
 
The 94mm in a 4g63 block would be an alternative to the 100mm crank. If you are using the stock block then just go with the 88mm or 100mm. There would be very little advantage to using the 94mm in a stock block over the 100mm, it would require custom pistons as well.
 
InvaderGSX said:
I have titanium retainers and Manley springs, so I don't want to go to a full 2.4.

Dare I ask why in the world you think this should have any impact on deciding which crank to run?
 
Because you cant rev 2.4's to where the springs will actually be usefull. He could have just kept the stock valvetrain. Just a guess.
 
That's exactly why. If I was to do a stroker. The regular 4G63 with the 4G64 crank then I would only be able to do 8000 rpm max. That is the one downfall of going to the stroker.
If I went to the 100mm crank wouldn't I have to run custom pistons also? It cannot be the same pistons and rod setup as the regular 88mm crank
 
InvaderGSX said:
That's exactly why. If I was to do a stroker. The regular 4G63 with the 4G64 crank then I would only be able to do 8000 rpm max. That is the one downfall of going to the stroker.
If I went to the 100mm crank wouldn't I have to run custom pistons also? It cannot be the same pistons and rod setup as the regular 88mm crank
If you run the 100mm crank in the 63 block then you need pistons with a rased pin in order for their to be no clearance issues. If you are running a 100mm crank in a 64 motor and want to run long rods you have to use the same pistons to gain the ability to run longer rods. If you run a 100mm crank in the 64, then no, you don't need a piston with raised pistons.
 
Injected said:
If you run the 100mm crank in the 63 block then you need pistons with a rased pin in order for their to be no clearance issues. If you are running a 100mm crank in a 64 motor and want to run long rods you have to use the same pistons to gain the ability to run longer rods. If you run a 100mm crank in the 64, then no, you don't need a piston with raised pistons.

OK is there anything else different that needs to be done if I went to the 100mm crank in a 4G63 block besides the pistons with raised pin? Standard Eagle rods will be fine? Anything else I need to do different?
 
InvaderGSX said:
OK is there anything else different that needs to be done if I went to the 100mm crank in a 4G63 block besides the pistons with raised pin? Standard Eagle rods will be fine? Anything else I need to do different?
You may need to clearance the block for the rods (I think this has more to do with the rod choice than it does the block since the castings are the same for the 63 and 64). If you are running ARP hardware, you will have to check for clearance on the oil sump support. I think that covers it.
 
Cool thanks for the help. Lastly, which pistons do you guys think are better for this setup? JE's or Wiseco? Do you know if you use Eagle rods that you will have to clearance the block for them? I read that you do if you have Pauter Rods.
 
TRBOBLU said:
Because you cant rev 2.4's to where the springs will actually be usefull. He could have just kept the stock valvetrain. Just a guess.

Aftermarket valvetrains arert just for high rev applications. If you plan on upgrading your cams to anything larger than 272's, then titanium retainers and springs are recommended. A 2.3/2.4 will bennefit greatly from large cams like the FP3X.
 
Turbocharged said:
Aftermarket valvetrains arert just for high rev applications. If you plan on upgrading your cams to anything larger than 272's, then titanium retainers and springs are recommended. A 2.3/2.4 will bennefit greatly from large cams like the FP3X.

Exact-a-mundo.

If you are running a 2.3 or 2.4 in order to extract the maximum power you will need cams that are larger than the HKS 272. If you are running cams larger than the 272's it is possible to cause some serious damage using the stock (near or slightly better than stock) components.
 
In my setup now on my regular 2.0 that I blew up I have a 2G head with Magnus intake manifold, Manley titanium retainers, Manley springs, and FP2's. I was thinking of upgrading to the FP3's since I want to go to the stroker, but I do not want to go to a dual spring setup. Will I be ok with my single manley springs if I went to the FP3's on a 2.3 hybrid? The FP3X says dual springs are required and the FP3's say recommended. Or how will my FP2's work with the stroker setup?
 
The FP2's will be fine; Im running OEM turbo cams on my car and FP2/3's will be my next upgrade.
 
I just contacted forced performance and they said with the springs and retainers I have with a 100mm crank in a 4g63 motor the best cam to go to is the FP1x! Well he told me
FP1x intake cam. I haven't gotten a response yet by email if he meant to change both cams or just the intake cam. He said if I went to any other cam I could only do 7000 rpm.......... Man I don't know if I want to go to the stroker now.....
 
InvaderGSX said:
He said if I went to any other cam I could only do 7000 rpm.......... Man I don't know if I want to go to the stroker now.....

Your initial idea of revving a 2.3 to 8000 RPM is dangrous. The road ratio and rod angle in these motors make anything over 7000 a bad idea. Regarding the cams, I have Comp 200's on an 8.8:1 2.3 and while the cams will run to about 7400, I don't rev the motor over 6800 on a hard pull. These motors are NOT about revving to the moon. Once you feel the torque from one of these things and spool your turbo amazingly fast, you won't care about revving to 8000. The FP2 or Comp 200 will do fine with this motor so what you have is more than workable.

For pistons and rods, I recommend either Wiseco/Eagle or Wiseco/Manley (what I have). If you build a 2.3, the block will need to be clearanced for the 4G64 crank. Any competent machine shop will see that in an instant.
 
Well I've gone to the Eagle 100mm stroker crank, JE stroker pistons, and Eagle Rods. Now I am in a dilema about the cams to run. I've been reading up on here about the FP cam differences and on the FP site. I tried calling and emailing FP and only a chick calls me back asking if I want to order something. I do want to order something, but I need some damn help before I order! So obivously with my new stroker I want to sell off my FP2 cams and go with either the FP3 or FP3x. But the information out there is mainly about running the FP3x on a 2.0 and not on the stroker, so I am confused on which way to go. And which would be better. I figured I can go with the dual valve spring kit now, but I also need figure out from FP how much that kit is without the titanium retainers since I already have those. So anybody out there running the FP3 or FP3x on the stroker?
 
InvaderGSX said:
Well I've gone to the Eagle 100mm stroker crank, JE stroker pistons, and Eagle Rods. Now I am in a dilema about the cams to run. I've been reading up on here about the FP cam differences and on the FP site. I tried calling and emailing FP and only a chick calls me back asking if I want to order something. I do want to order something, but I need some damn help before I order! So obivously with my new stroker I want to sell off my FP2 cams and go with either the FP3 or FP3x. But the information out there is mainly about running the FP3x on a 2.0 and not on the stroker, so I am confused on which way to go. And which would be better. I figured I can go with the dual valve spring kit now, but I also need figure out from FP how much that kit is without the titanium retainers since I already have those. So anybody out there running the FP3 or FP3x on the stroker?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=183700&highlight=fp3+fp2
 
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