man_of_saturn
20+ Year Contributor
- 168
- 0
- Aug 31, 2002
-
Temple,
Texas
Just picked up a G4JS-2.4 7bolt thinking it was 4GCS...did I just waste my money?
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how many of you guys have your 2.4L up and running. how many miles so far? any tips or information that you found out that wasn't listed in this thread or pieces of info in this thread that you believe to be unnecessary?
Im working on building a 2.4L to replace my stock block and improve my low end and midrange powerband. I plan on revving to 8000RPM's on My T3 .70A/R Hx-40 setup.
Ive had my 2.4 running for over a year. In all ive had it for 6 years. I broke the crank in it 5 years ago. I think the crank had a flaw, and prob other issues+ they cut the crank .
I got lucky, used the same piston rods (they only had 5k on them or so) got a fresh crank and got it back together. I had the crack/clutch/stock 4g63 pulley balanced this time. THIS IS A MUST! The factory 4g63 pulley had to have 3/4 holes drilled on the opposite side of the factory drilled holes to balance it!
Also, I invested in a fluidamper balancer after I got it together, got acl race bearings, and all is good. 26PSI on pump gas with a gt4294 and it rips like no other.
laser beam pulls- Video
using oil squirters?
No piston squirters.
B-safts have no effect on bearing, wrist pin, or other points of concern in the block at all whatsoever. They merely for your butt. If you have forged pistons, knwo that the manufaturers of forged pistons recommend usign the oil flow elsewhere. Forged pistons do not need nearly as much cooling. I don't know why your machine shop insisted on those two points of your short block build. . . Especially the b-shafts. Bshafts can't stop the crank from jumproping or wabbling. They are only tied to the crank via big fat rubber bands . When the WHOLE MOTOR moves one way, then the bshaft weights move another. It's there to cancel out the 2nd order vibrations (how the whole block vibrates after the crank make rotations), not the crank vibrations that damage parts. . .
Completly understand that, and made that arguement to him. 70% of his business is 4g63's so i'm taking his word it. He could of said "ok" and not done it but insisted that if I wanted a motor that would last I should do it.
this stuff is good info, oil squirters have been debated back in forth in my mind, half the time i come up with" they might fail and cause me to loose oil pressure, plus forged pistons and rods wont miss them much" or " I need the squirters for street use, as they not only cool the pistons but keep the skirts and pins lubed too".
I guess ill end up running without them since i dont abuse my motor to much. ie no track use or road racing.
I already know what place it is, and they told me the same thing...Nothing like having something useless in the motor that could add to taking out the head/valvetrain and pistons. Ask this shop how many cars do they own with both of them, and what kind of numbers they do track/dyno.
Ever see what happens when a balance shaft belt breaks? Well the timing belt usually gets tangled up and jumps off also. I bet they wouldnt warrenty that eather.
Piston squirters are useless in a race motor. And its a race motor, shit will find a way to break.
R&R aluminum rods? Sounds like you got your self a race motor there. Im sure some guys will say "why you building such a extreme motor if your not gonna beat it"? But who cares, if you got the money build it so you dont have to worry about it.
I may like to say a suggestion. You can run a felpro permatorque mls headgasket on a 2.4 block. It alittle smaller bore size since its for a 4g63, but not enough to create an issue. Also arps will do, but L19s will be the best way to go.