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LC1 Wideband install w/pics

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So its blue?
behind the radio?


and alright, i dont mind the CEL.

wouldnt i be splicing the yellow(narrowband) into rear o2, since ill want the wideband for the gauge?

am i right or wrong? can i get some insight on this so i dont mess up, im trying to get it finished cause i need the car tomorrow.
 
To tell you the truth i make things easy on my self. Ive installed more than 5 of these and EVERY one has tapped the 12v from the cigarette fuse. I simply pull the fuse, wrap the wire around a leg, and then pop the fuse back in. No problems yet.
 
Alright scratch that, i guess i have the DB gauge, sorry. so i will need to run the calibration wire?

and well i would use the cigarette lighter, i just already have it spliced to light up 2 other gauges. would splicing this in with it be too much for it?

Oh and i don't have a multi-meter. im pretty limited with tools at the moment.
so id rather not be guessing. i dont have a inline fuse and dont want to risk messing it up.
 
You should be fine as long as you are not running anything serious from you cig lighter, but even so it's fused for a reason. The calibration wire is more complicated than it needs to be. You can simply leave it isolated and ground it when you need to run a calibration. If you are worried about it than you might be better off wiring in the push button and led.
 
Just got done. its only 230 in the morning.
what a pain in the ass.

ended up just wiring it through the cig lighter, everything hooked up and it works fine.

does seem a little laggy, but could be due to it being so far back in the exhaust.

thanks for all the help:thumb:
 
So which wire did you run to the gauge?

Well, I know that this thread is old, but I am bringing it back since I found it while searching before installing my new LC-1 WB and gauge with my DSMLink v3 lite and I just wanted to make sure the thread had the answer…

I ended up using the brown wire (analog 2 out) to both the gauge and to pin 15 (EGR temp) of the ECU.

Then, since the LC-1 now a supported WB sensor by DSMlink v3, I then just configured DSMLink to set the Wideband input to the ERG temp sensor under “ECU inputs” and under “connected sensors” I set the WB type to “LC1 wideband”.

I left the LC-1 with the factory default calibrations for “Analog1” and “Analog2” outputs.

I also tested the ability to save the calibrations since my LM Programmer software version is v3.25 which is newer that the wiki page v3.16 that warns that the calibrations do not save for versions above v3.15. Apparently that software bug is fixed by v3.25. Again, I did not need to change the calibrations since it appears the LC-1 is supported by DSMLink v3.

So far everything seems to be working great…

Just passing along some info. Hope it helps :thumb:
 
I mounted mine to the frame of my car, on the awd i will put in somewhere less visible for a clean look. It took a while to get it installed but im happy i took my ti me.
 
Do i need to re calibrate my LC 1? It was installed on my old car W/O V3? i cant find the cables that plug into my computer.
 
You should calibrate it regularly, if you do, you don't need to calibrate when switching cars, but really, why not? It's a single button press since it's out anyway.
 
Ok I have the calibration button. I mean hook it up to the computer. It was installed on my other car but i dont know how it was programmed. It was on my other talon and it had link on it. Its not running so i took link and the WB and put it on my current talon. Does it come factory default with the 0-5v?
 
The wideband controller never changes, it's the gauge (or ECU) that has to be set to read it.
 
Ok to make it clear. I have a LC 1 WB im going to be using the brown wire to my rear O2 input to log my WB readings and the yellow on to simulate narrowband on my front O2. Do i need to hook it up to my laptop for programming? Im Tuning with link V3. Or can I just leave the yellow unplug and let link simulate my NB for me? If so what should the settings be in V3 NB Sim.?
 
How does the LC-1 box handle cold temperatures? As in would it handle being in the engine when it's -40 outside?
 
I have read that numerous times. Im looking for a more defined and simpler answer. What happens when i enable the NBO2 simulation switch point at 2.44volts? Will it always log WB and trick the ECU that its running NB for closed loop operation?
 
I apologize im new to Link and DSMs. I guess im just trying to figure out how the simulation works. Ive will it make my NBO2 work better than if it was a stock O2 sensor? I have looked at my logs and others and alot of what i have seen is a steady .20 to .80 volts while mine jumps unstablly up and down.
 
If im wiring in my analog 2 (brown wire) to my rear O2 for logging WB and using V3 to simulate NB do i still need to plug in my analog 1 (yellow wire)? If so do i cut the Front O2 Wire and plug it in there?
 
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