LC1 Wideband install w/pics

[deflator]

I had to search long and hard on here to find the correct wiring and placement for the Innovate LC-1 Wideband. So since my install went cleanly, I'm going to do a write-up of it.

Wiring
12v power : Connected to white wire on ignition harness (blue plug in steering column) fused with 15A inline

Heater Ground, System Ground: Connected by ring terminals to two different screws on the ECU brackets

Analog Output 1: I connected this to the wire for the stock 02 sensor, pin 75 on the ECU. This is so the sensor can be logged by DSMLink. Then use the LM Programmer software to set the LC-1 up to output the same voltages as the Tech Edge WB innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki].

Analog Out 2: I set this one up to display to the gauge, using the voltages that were default from the factory.

All the other wiring is explained well in the manual

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Sensor Placement
I had the bung welded where the stock o2 used to be. I cut out the stock sensor, and cut the carpet above where the sensor goes through the bottom of the car. A mm or two of grinding and the Innovate sensor will fit through it too. I reused the brown grommet that was on the stock sensors' line by cutting it down the middle, then refastening it to the new sensor's line with a cable tie.

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LC-1 Unit Placement
The hole in the carpet is right under the driver's seat. I coiled everything up and left it under the seat, out of sight. Kudos to turbosax2 for the idea to put it there

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[snowborder714]

Heater Ground, System Ground: Connected by ring terminals to two different screws on the ECU brackets (must be grounded at ECU if you feed one of the analog outs into it)

Just to let you know, according to the manual, these don't have to be grounded at the ECU. You might want to check to see if that is a good ground, as I've not seen/heard of that being a typical ground spot.

This is what it says in the manual about the blue and white wires which are the two wires that need grounded:

The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source and although these grounds are of the same source, the BLUE wire should be wired separate from the WHITE wire to avoid analog ground noise. Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn't possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal "noise." When possible, soldering is always better than crimping.

 

[turbosax2]

Nice writeup. A few comments I have:

- The output used is actually output 2 (brown wire). Output 1 (yellow wire) is the simulated narrowband output. This can be used to replace the factory front o2 sensor if you want.

5. Grounding to an ECU housing is generally not optimal- housings are strapped to the
frame for shielding, but not necessarily grounded.

- I don't think grounding the wires where you did is an optimal spot. The manual says:

If an external data logger or ECU is to be fed by
an MTS device, the MTS ground should be located at or near the ECU or data logger’s input
signal ground.

Notice it says the ECU's signal ground. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the ecu's signal ground is through its case. The reason I say this is become some ecu's in our cars have plastic cases. However, I have no clue where the ecu's signal ground would be

- Optimally, the blue and white wires would be soldered into a single lug rather than 2 separate lugs that use different grounding points. (And then furthermore, an optimal setup would have EVERYTHING grounded on a single lug on the engine block............which would be a pain to do.)



After going through the manual a few times, I decided to use a distribution block from Radio Shack to ground all the aftermarket items in the car. (This was on snowborder714's car btw.) The distribution block has a very short, large gauge wire going to a factory grounding point on the frame that was no longer being used. Also, the blue and white wires were soldered into a single lug.

You can see his setup here.


So will any of this make a noticeable difference? Maybe, or maybe not. My guess would be no, but then again electronics can be funny.

 

[68442]

Did you mount the guage? Seems like you'd have to splice in a lot of wire to get it where it'd work good.

 

[deflator]

Did you mount the guage? Seems like you'd have to splice in a lot of wire to get it where it'd work good.

I mounted the DB gauge in my a pillar pod. I just had to run a wire from the analog output and a wire for ground to the white wire's ground point.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/DB_manual.pdf

So will any of this make a noticeable difference? Maybe, or maybe not. My guess would be no, but then again electronics can be funny.

This seems to be working. If all else fails, I'll get that distribution block. I got the idea to ground them at the ECU brackets from other posts on this forum, and it worked for them. God only knows where the ECU signal ground is

 

[ApexVIII]

soo you completely removed the down stream o2 correct?

i have a Hi flow catt, so i cant do that.

what should i do so i can still logg it threw DSM link?(i dont have dsmlink yet but will soon)

 

[deflator]

Well putting it in the rear O2 location was just for east of placement. To log in DSMLink, you have 3 or so ecu inputs you can splice into. Rear O2 is the signal I used, since its not really necessary unless you have to pass emissions

Installing a sensor for logging:
installnewsensor [ECMTuning - wiki]

LC-1 specific setup:
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[ApexVIII]

so to install it in the o2 housing section i would need to cut out the stock o2, what wires need to be ran /connected where?

 

[ApexVIII]

hmm i put it into the rear o2 and now the car is running really rich any ideas?

 

[snowborder714]

Is it running rich at idle, cruise, WOT? And what numbers are you looking at for those scenarios?

 

[ApexVIII]

just at idle it is, i havnt moved the car but im sure it is all the time, it sputters when i rev it, the front o2 is not really moving Volt wise i checked 2323234 times to make sure that i taped into the rear wire and not the front one.

i can smell the fuel when i try to rev it

 

[erald01]

About to install my lc-1 wideband, but i was wondering if the sensor will fit okay on the hole that the stock one sits, which is in the therma r&d exhaust? Any ideas? I noticed that the guy did this thread said that he made the hole a mm bigger, but how, wouldnt that mess up the threading in the hole?

 

[romeen]

I think the hole that he was referring to was the one in the floorboard under the driver's seat where the stock sensor wiring comes up into the car. Most O2 sensors use the same size bung, 18mm x 1.50mm. The lc-1 sensor should thread in just fine with the existing bung.

 

[erald01]

K so i got the wideband installed in this order; red wire to 12v power (cigarette lighter) without the fuse (forgot to put a fuse in), white and blue wire are the ground, and the yellow one is the wire that can be hooked up to the ecu, but i didnt connect that one (the analog wire to the ecu) and i am not using a gauge because i dont have one so i am using the lap top to do the reading when i tune the car. NOW the problem is that i can not get any readings at all, HOWEVER when i open
the LM Programmer V3.22 it recognizes the wideband being powered on, but when i go to LogWorks3 (the program that shows the reading), i CAN NOT get a reading at all so what do you guys think it could be? Me not putting a fuse (which i think it should not matter at all), i am running out of options and cant figure it out.

 

[romeen]

I'm not familiar with logging the wideband readings using DSMlink. But you probably have to wire the wideband analog output into the ECU. On a 2G you can wire it into pin 75 which is the rear O2 sensor. It will only recognize voltage values up to 1.27V but that is enough range for the typical A/F ratios that the motor should see. That is how I have my PLX set up using Pocketlogger to datalog.

Again, I'm not positive that it works the same way using link but I'm sure there are threads that you can search regarding this.

Also, I believe the LC-1 has a very specific way or location that the ground wire must be hooked up. You may want to double check that. IIRC, it must also be calibrated.

Edit: Just realized that this is all mentioned in the opening post.

 

[erald01]

I'm not familiar with logging the wideband readings using DSMlink. But you probably have to wire the wideband analog output into the ECU. On a 2G you can wire it into pin 75 which is the rear O2 sensor. It will only recognize voltage values up to 1.27V but that is enough range for the typical A/F ratios that the motor should see. That is how I have my PLX set up using Pocketlogger to datalog.

Again, I'm not positive that it works the same way using link but I'm sure there are threads that you can search regarding this.

Also, I believe the LC-1 has a very specific way or location that the ground wire must be hooked up. You may want to double check that. IIRC, it must also be calibrated.

Edit: Just realized that this is all mentioned in the opening post.

thanx for the input bu please read the thread more carefully what i am trying to say, i am not using the ecu/dsmlink to get the reading i am using my laptop meaning stright connection to the laptop (think of the laptop being the gauge)

 

[imdrax]

thanx for the input bu please read the thread more carefully what i am trying to say, i am not using the ecu/dsmlink to get the reading i am using my laptop meaning stright connection to the laptop (think of the laptop being the gauge)

Without starting a new thread i thought id pop this one up. I too am going with an LC1 and i DO NOT have dsmlink. I am logging with mmcd and will be using a laptop with logworks. Can logworks log both rpm and afr simultaneously to review after a each pull? ANd i have read that with a 1g mmcd can log through egr but it has to be converted. Is this true for a CA car?

 

[dylnwit]

I have one question about the LC-1 install. Can the LC-1 unit be safely mounted outside the car?

My TSI is my daily driver, so it sees snow and everything, the problem is I don't see a way to get the bung before the flex and the LC-1 box inside without somehow lengthening my sensor wires.

 

[snowborder714]

I have my LC-1 box mounted on my front subframe. I don't daily drive the car, but I believe the unit is sealed so you shouldn't have any issues.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

I have my lc-1 unit mounted to the a/c line on the driver side of the car....Its up and out of the way of everything...I have not tried using it it yet though car is down for upgrades....

 

[2gawdtsi]

Alright, didnt want to start up a new thread,
I am in the process of installing my new LC-1.
I've searched and think i have everything figured out.

However, instead of using the cigarette lighter(already used for other gauges), where can i splice into for 12v power? easiest spot might i include.

Also, since i have the gauge i wont need to install the calibration wire?

 

[dalesmitsu]

Your picture links are broken, sir.

 

[snowborder714]

You could also use the accessory power for the radio.

If you have the XD-16 gauge, you don't need the calibration wire. If you have the DB gauge you do.

 

[2gawdtsi]

what color is the accesory power?
and its the xd-16.

I'm putting it in the rear 02 hole.
What should i do with the rear o2? just disconnect it? could i wire the yellow analog into one of the rear o2 wires to get the reading to the ecu when i start logging? or would i have to pin it into the ecu.

 

[snowborder714]

See if this helps you find the accessory power wire.
2nd Gen Wiring Diagram

You'll want to disconnect it. You can splice the brown wire (wideband signal with 0-5v) into the white wire (goes to pin 75 of the ECU) of the rear o2 sensor. If you don't have a way to turn off the CEL (i.e. ECMlink), one will be thrown.