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Knock Sensor housing from wireing harness

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PrimerPLus

10+ Year Contributor
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Jul 28, 2011
Tokyo, Asia

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Okay ill have to check

So I started pulling back the covering and tape. Is this normal. Minus the connectors I know those are not stock LOL.
But there is a white insulated wire running inside of a green insulated protector along side an uninsilated wire that comes up and connects to a black wire. The uninsilated wire and the black wire are connected to eachother but the black wire runs down back into the harness while the uninsilated wire goes up to the housing. Also it was covered in the thick bla k sticky goo like rubber compound.
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Is it the wiring harness side you need ? or the knock sensor side?
Heres the Female end on the wiring side of engine harness
NMWP 2P GY female Connector : JNZ Tuning
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Yah wiring harness side. Does that come with the pigtails too?
That's exactly what I need
 
Yah wiring harness side. Does that come with the pigtails too?
That's exactly what I need
On the drop down section "style" theres an option it says "pigtail + $5 " .. Im sure you can call them and see if its attached as one piece. The description also shows its used for knock sensor connector on 1g and 2g. I hope this helps out:thumb:
 
They don't have the wires provided with the female terminals already crimped on, but they do provide terminals and wire seals with the connector, so you can crimp it onto your wire.
 
They don't have the wires provided with the female terminals already crimped on, but they do provide terminals and wire seals with the connector, so you can crimp it onto your wire.

Itsays they have pigtails for extra 5 bucks... Im guessing its separate with pins. Im just glad jnztuning has a bunch of connectors ...most people are hopeless on finding replacements.
Connectors & Wiring : JNZ Tuning
 
Itsays they have pigtails for extra 5 bucks... Im guessing its separate with pins. Im just glad jnztuning has a bunch of connectors ...most people are hopeless on finding replacements.
Connectors & Wiring : JNZ Tuning

They only have the pigtails on the NMWP connectors with male terminals. The pigtail means that the terminal is crimped onto a 24" wire that is GXL material, 18 AWG. so it is ready to use for repairing a harness.

They will have the others as pigtails at some point, just not yet. For the others, you can buy the connector housing, and it comes with terminals and seals all in a bag.
 
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Received the connector today. I emailed jnz asking if it comes with a pigtail. It does not but jnz contacted the supplier and they included all wires and connectors.
Here is what I got.
 

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Would recommend soldering the connectors to the wires as well as crimping. That will make sure that they do not come apart after some time.

I wouldn't suggest that. If you are not very careful with the solder job, the soldering will actually make the wire become more likely to break at the solder joint.

It CAN be done, just usually isn't necessary if you crimp it correctly. OEMs don't do it, and most are eliminating solder joints elsewhere in the harness too.
 
Nice I would just crimp it, then no need for solder but that's just me it could cause a problem if it starts to make contact on the other terminals.
 
This was from a while ago. Anyways I don't think you understand what i was asking.
I don't know why you think using a crimp connector is better than soldering 2wires together.
Anyways, I got it all fixed and I can assure you it is safe.
 
So how did you wind up crimping the terminals on the wires?

I'm curious to see what sort of install jobs people are doing with all these mitsu connectors.
 
Those are small connectors, would a normal crimping tool work on them? :)
 
I guess it depends on "normal" For most people normal is a crimp tool for insulated and non insulated butt connectors. Definitely not the right tool.

When I tried some Delphi crimpers a while back, they didn't really work that great for this. Nice crimp tools are 2 stage and crimp the wire and seal in 1 step. But, that means you have to get the exact right tool designed for that particular terminal and wire gauge. Which was the problem with the otherwise nice Delphi crimpers.

If you use a universal crimper, you can crimp 1 section at a time. And when I say universal, I mean universal for terminals. The Hozan P706 is a pretty good example of a universal one.
 
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