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Keep Blowing Drivers Side CV Joints

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erkitner

10+ Year Contributor
99
0
Oct 24, 2011
Olympia, Washington
So I'm on my 4th or 5th CV shaft. I get about 300 miles out of each one, and then they blow up.

Basically, I put one in, and then after about 300 miles, I get a HARD pulling to the left for a few seconds and then I hear parts "falling" out from underneath and then it straightens up again because the outer joint separates and the "stress" is gone.

For all of the other times it has happened, I was on the highway, and that was all I experienced. But last night I was close to an exit and took it. I slowed down and when I came to the stop light, I saw a lot of smoke coming up from the drivers side RIGHT before it finally separated. I think it may have been the grease hitting the inner part of the brake rotor and cooking it.

So all in all, this keeps happening. I have no idea why I blow through drivers side front CV axles so fast. It's very frustrating.

They break at the exact same spot, every time. Outer joint, drivers side.

What gives? Anyone have this issue before?
 
jack the car up and make sure everything is straight. I have seen other cars that have been in accidents or even curbed really good have a bent control arm that would put some stress on the axles.
 
No mention of clutch in your mods are you auto? Auto and 5spd axles are different part numbers. Somebody has mentioned the intermediate is a different length, yes that's true but the axle part itself from the intermediate out to the wheel is a different part number in ASA for auto vs 5 spd. Make sure you have the right one. I do not know what the difference is but I bet it's length because to keep equal length auto and 5spd are likely different.
 
I went through 3 cv axles and 2 ball joints, 500$ in tows and 1000$ later in labor and parts, I had to get a cv axle and ball joint from the dealership, the parts stores like autozone, nappa, sell junk! The first one that broke on me, I drove around the block seemed good, parked, woke up to go to work started driving down my drive way... it fell apart...

Second time I was on my way home from work, just took a turn, balljoint and cv axle came apart.

Third time I was in front of work pulling in, same thing, I about lit the car on fire there, it's on it's last leg of leaving me stranded, if I have another balljoint or cv axle fail, i'm lighting it on fire!
 
How are your motor mounts? I was told once by a reputable source that worn out MM's are hard on cv shafts... Corse I think there's something bigger going on :hmm:
 
SMDH. i guarantee he has deleted the AC and didnt properly space the bracket to the block -_-
 
No. AC is NOT deleted. Lets put that to bed.

Engine mounts? Just did all 4 3 weeks ago. Spent the money and got some GOOD ones. Avid Racing billet aluminum with 75A inserts rated up to 650hp. THAT took car of my first gear take-off shimmy.

I also just replaced my sway bar links with MOOGs. Lower end ones were flimsier.

I'm clicking on the same joint and just noticed the boot clamp is canted and sprayed grease everywhere. Not separated yet though. Been babying the car since I did the mounts. Wanting to see what happens with the axle.

BTW, I keep replacing the axles with the O'reilly Auto Parts axles. Any opinions of these? I also had a friend suggest to me to get one from the dealership. Any experience on this? Are they better?

One more thing. I drove the car with the bad mounts to the shop where I did mount job. In order to get it there I replaced it with a new axle. It was a 15 mile in town drive. Have NOT replaced it since.

DSM4Life.
 
I've had no problems with O'Reilly's or Auto Zone replacement axles, they're free when they break and I haven't had them just up and fail. I went through axles when my car was slammed and just by looking at your avatar your car looks slammed.

Lowering a DSM makes it look good but you throw off the suspension geometry and you'll go through axles, power steering racks, tie rod ends, etc. Just be happy you get free replacement axles from O'Reilly's.
"a front end shop"? Seriously? :ohdamn:

The whole purpose of this exercise is for suggestions that are worth-while.
I'm sure "DSM1G90" knows what he's talking about but if you're looking for helpful answers next time I recommend posting in a tech forum. Newbie forum = newbie answers.

:dsm:
 
Rollin' on Eibach Sportlines. 1.5" drop. Not ridiculous, but yes, lowered. I'll replace the axle again this weekend. I get the feeling I may be okay since I changed the mounts. I'll keep this post updated. No catastrophic failure yet.

Thanks, all.
 
I work in the oilfields, I see some things broken that flabbergasts me.

We have service hands who drive mostly Chevy 2500s, and when a service hand travels to a rig, the rig is out the middle of nowhere. Average 20 miles driving on dirt roads that mostly heavy trucks drive on. It's one hell of a test on these service pickups in other words.

We get our axles from Napa, and they're rebuilt cores. No problems here. But that's Napa, I realize you said O'Reillys'.
 
Thank you. I never thought of Napa. I'll check them out. I forgot they were even here.
 
No mention of clutch in your mods are you auto? Auto and 5spd axles are different part numbers. Somebody has mentioned the intermediate is a different length, yes that's true but the axle part itself from the intermediate out to the wheel is a different part number in ASA for auto vs 5 spd. Make sure you have the right one. I do not know what the difference is but I bet it's length because to keep equal length auto and 5spd are likely different.

Actually you are wrong. The only difference between auto and 5 speed manual is the carrier bearing shaft is different lengths. axles are interchangeable.
 
Rollin' on Eibach Sportlines. 1.5" drop. Not ridiculous, but yes, lowered. I'll replace the axle again this weekend. I get the feeling I may be okay since I changed the mounts. I'll keep this post updated. No catastrophic failure yet.

Thanks, all.
That's the same suspension setup I had when my car was blowing driverside CV axle boots, even my power steering rack a few times. I "lifted" my car going to the Prokit springs and haven't had to fix a boot/replace an axle since. Granted, the "hellaflush" kids don't like my stance but I can run Hoosiers under my car so I'm good.

This is how "slammed" my car was with the Sportlines when I went through axles.

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:dsm:
 

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This is probably not the best place to ask but I'm new and don't know how to post but does anyone know a worthwhile brand of cv boots all the autozone ones I buy go out in about 3 weeks and I'm sick and tired of changing them I've replaced driver side twice in one month and the passenger side 3 times it's a real hassle they keep ripping. Thanks in advance and sorry if I bombed your post. :confused:
 
Here you go. 1997 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE CV Joint Boot

I used the Raybestos one's. Professional grade. :thumb:

My rule of thumb is most auto parts stores don't have what I want for my car. I've bought stuff from auto zone part wise but now I stick to the universal stuff, oil, filters, cleaners, antifreeze, paint, etc. You know stuff that a major manufacturer made. I got a MAT sensor from them, plug wires, alternator, starter, axle, and I'm sure a few more things at different times but the one's I listed by name I ended up returning them for a replacement. And some of them another replacement, and another. :notgood:
 
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