1G Just bought another DSM after 12 years

[awdtsi_90]

I live in Wichita Kansas. If there are any fellow DSM people around or in Wichita I would love some help.

This car is a 1990 Eclipse GSX with 180,000. It has a 16g turbo, MAF translator. It also has a front mount intercooler & fuel pressure regulator that is always maxed out on the gauge, even when the car is off. I was told it would never move regardless on the adjustment. Supposed to be a aftermarket fuel pump wired but not sure on what the pump or injectors are. The wide band gauge in the car constantly shows a 18 at all times. The fuel gauge dosnt work & I believe the temperature and oil pressure gauge are not correct also. Oil pressure shows high almost all the time and will bleed off to normal then sky rocket again. The temp gauge never went above 1/3 on the gauge granted it was 70°.

I did pick up the car for $2,000. It does run and drive and had a 30 min drive home at highway speeds. But would love some input and help on figuring it out and with the wires idk what are and are cut .

The powesteering pump leaks from the fitting. Is what the silicon is on there for which dosnt help so will be needing a new line or a fitting.

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[Moonlight GSX]

1G DSM Circuit Diagrams - Electrical Factory Service Manual

This is the 1G Mitsubishi Eclipse / Eagle Talon Factory Service Manual covering:Electrical - Circuit Diagrams - Section 8 Continued96 pages - 6MB -- use the link below to access.Here is the direct link from my Google Drive - You must be registered to see element.

www.dsmtuners.com

This will be your best friend. Read it, learn it, and commit... once you start you definitely want to either create stopping points or at least have all of your notes written somewhere. Wiring is not a fun task but isn't as hard as many make it out to be. I would also invest in some type of DMM to check live and dead connections (12V or just ohms, either or). Let us know if you have any questions.

 

[We're on Boost]

It looks like your alternator has not had a fire yet. You are lucky - it looks like the PS fluid drip has been missing the openings in the alternator case. I see a pink puddle there on the case very near the openings.
Anyway, it's a thing that seriously needs to be fixed! I probably wouldn't drive it until then.

That fitting that has RTV goop around it is the low pressure one (return line).
On my car it was the high pressure fitting that leaked, and it did cause an alternator fire. The fire made a lot of smoke. I was in city traffic, lots of driveways around. I pulled into a driveway immediately to park, and by the time I got the hood open the fire had gone out. Fortunate. I do keep a Halotron fire extinguisher in the back seat footwell though.
Anyway that metal fitting is probably ok, but it has an O-ring inside and that is what needs to be replaced. The rubber hoses likely could stand to be replaced too.

There were 2 different styles of PS pump on the early years and they had different O-rings in that return fitting, in fact the entire fitting was different. If your PS pump is a for real 1990 pump it probably uses the same O-ring there that mine does. If the pump body is iron (not aluminum) then I think that's the one it will be. I used an American Standard -112 size O-ring which was easy to buy locally, and it works fine. OEM is probably metric and I don't know what the correct metric size is.

When you get that fitting to stop leaking, keep a close eye on the other places where it can leak.
BTW the alternator looks real nice. I think I even see anti-seize on the bolt threads.

 

[awdtsi_90]

Thank you guys. I will see about the o ring today and I was worried about a fire . The car dose have a fire extinguisher in it. I will keep you guys posted. The passenger window motor went out yesterday so I will be getting that ordered friday along with tires, brake rotors & pads.

 

[Dericsh]

Welcome back! Looks like you’ve got some work to do, but you’re in the right spot for some help. Good luck with it!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Just bought another DSM after 12 years

What took you so long!

Just kidding, welcome back to DSM Life. Be sure to add your vehicle profile https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/

Get yourself an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.The stock oil pressure gauge doesnt have any numbers and isnt accurate anyway. You might be dealing with a ticking time bomb and not know it.

 

[awdtsi_90]

thank you. Yes I am going and getting a fuel pressure gauge today to see if the gauge or regulator is bad. I am also getting a o ring tray assortment to fix the leaking power sterring pump.

Then sometime in the next few days I will be figuring put if the bosh sensor is bad to try and figure out why the gauge is reading so high. Maybe the fule pressure regulator is bad? idk but will find it out.

I am scared about it because this is about to be a daily driver through the winter untill I can ride the speed triple again in spring/summer. So I am trying to get everything sorted out and the car runs good.

If its not the bosch sensor or the fuel pressure regulator what could cause the 18 on the wideband gauge?

also what could be causing the oil pressure to ve so high if it's not a gauge error? The furl gauge dosnt work either so it may be a bad gauge or just really that high

 

[Dericsh]

also what could be causing the oil pressure to ve so high if it's not a gauge error? The furl gauge dosnt work either so it may be a bad gauge or just really that high

A balance shaft delete makes the pressure higher.

 

[We're on Boost]

I am also getting a o ring tray assortment to fix the leaking power sterring pump.

I doubt that an o-ring assortment will do you any good.
An assortment of American Standard sizes might have a -112 in it but that's about it. So just buy a -112.
A metric assortment won't have the right sizes for the high pressure fitting (the fitting on top of the pump) because the correct o-rings for that fitting are odd sizes even for metric. I wound up buying those o-rings from The O-ring Store online, because they have practically everything that exists! What's odd about them is the cross-section thickness is 1.9mm. Not 2mm or 1.5 or anything common.

Here from the 1991 FSM are the correct o-ring sizes for that top fitting. In my case, I've only ever had to replace the upper 2 rings, the ones numbered 1 and 2 in this diagram. The 11 x 1.9 and the 13 x 1.9:

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Here's where they are on the o-ring store:
1.9 x 13mm
1.9 x 11mm

These are nitrile, 70 durometer.

If you want to shop for American Standard (AS) sizes on this site, pick the section labeled "AS568 O-Rings Standard Inch" and then pick the section labeled "Buna-N Nitrile o-rings (NBR) 70 Duro Standard".

 

[awdtsi_90]

ok thank you guys very much. This coolant temp sensor has no wires going to it and there are a few dancing underneath it but don't have the clip part to attach to the sensor. What can I do or ehats th3 part I need to get. I will take a better pic today once I get home.

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I am unsure if it has the balance shaft delete.I would assume this motor has never been opened up but you don't really know on a 30 year old car. I couldn't get the gauge yesterday for the regulator so I will be trying to get that today and pull put the bosch sensor to see ifi can tell its bad or get the type I need atleast. I'm not a mechanic but am learning. If anyone knows of a fellow dsm person on here in wichita ks or the area, then maybe we can get together and I can get someone to overlook the car for things im not seeing or recognizing tohelp send me in the right way to make this car mechanically solid & sage. Thank you very much because you have all already helped out. The DSM community truly is amazing. ai remember it like this from 12 years ago. I just regret getting rid of my car back then. It was a gem with nothing hacked, done professionally, not missing any interior peices and was very reliable. but I have another one and will get this one reliable and safe to drive and not blow up . When I open the door to enter the garage I can smell a gas odor. What's a common leak with fuel for these cars?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Man, this car is f***ed up but that's ok. It's fun to fix stuff. The sensor you pictured is not the coolant temp sensor; that's actually used to turn on the /ac fan or something along those lines. As mentioned, get an oil pressure gauge with remote mount line from STM or extremepsi.com and you'll get a much more accurate reading. If you go through my build thread, you can see what I did.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/40-off-all-in-stock-gauges.544973/

 

[awdtsi_90]

So today I fixed the power steering pump leak with a new o ring, replaced the bosh wide band sensor for the gauge, put a new fule pressure gauge on & got the afr down to to 13-14 at idle with adjusting the MAF translator. I'm not to sure if the thermostat is opening up or staying closed tho. I have some pics to help identify. I think it's the coolant sensor and I believe the 2 wires are what goes to it but it's missing the connector which is why I'm assuming the wires are bare. I'm not sure which is why I am asking all the professionals In the dsm world.

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here are the pics of the wires and missing sensor I think also with a update video of the car

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[Vegas Smith]

The coolant temp sensor is the bottom sensor under both of the parts you pointed at. Does the car have ecmlink?

 

[We're on Boost]

here are the pics of the wires and missing sensor I think also with a update video of the car

In the video, looks like a cold start, but towards the end of it your AFR is about 14.0 when it settles down to a stable idle, and that is close to right. If the engine was pretty much warmed up the AFR should be more like 14.7 when you aren't blipping the gas. Trouble is we don't know what the engine temperature is at that point in your video.

You say in the vid that you replaced the O2 sensor with a wideband. Are you using the feature of the wideband that sends a simulated narrow band signal to the ECU? You don't have ECMLink right?

The sensors in your thermostat housing - the upper one with white plastic on it is like Vegas said, a switch for AC operation. It's #3 in the diagram and pic below. The 2 cut-off wires you are holding might be for that. I see stripes on the wires. If we knew the color of the stripes and the color of the wires we could probably figure out what they are for.

The other sensor you point to with 2 hose spuds sticking out of it is the "Thermo Valve" which is part of the EGR system. It's #4 in the pic below. In the original stock configuration it would have 2 small diameter rubber air hoses to it which then go to the throttle body or some other part of the EGR system. Most of us disable that system. I don't know what the status of the rest of it is on your car. My thermo valve is sitting there disconnected just like yours and the rest of my EGR system has been removed.

The 2 sensors you really need are #1 and #2 in the diagram and pic below. #2 especially has to work right because the ECU uses it to run the engine correctly. #1 runs just the temp gauge on the instrument panel. Your #1 and #2 look like they are there. If the #2 sensor is bad though, it will cause bad running.

Here are 2 diagrams from the factory manual and a shot of this area on my car, marked up with the numbers. I've got new connectors with new wire on sensors #1 and #2. The #3 on my car is just a pipe plug! Took the AC switch out.

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Oh I missed the pic in post 15 where you show 2 oxygen sensors. So I guess one is the new wideband which just runs an AFR gauge, and the other is the stock type narrow band which actually runs the car. So that much is good!

I'm noticing now in the pic one up from that, I see red PS fluid lying around on the high pressure fitting that is on top of the PS pump. So wipe that off clean and watch it to see if red fluid reappears there. It looks like it might be dripping down the front side of the pump and dripping off the bottom onto the alternator. That's what mine was doing.

Your mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is on the regulator, is it stuck on 60 psi now? It shouldn't be. On a turbo car the fuel pressure should go up and down 1 to 1 with manifold air pressure. I'm thinking maybe there is no vacuum line running to the regulator? Or it fell off somewhere. Then the regulator would sit at one pressure all the time pretty much. And that isn't going to work in driving conditions.

Noticed one more thing, this short loop of hose on the throttle body. That would be part of the EGR deletion process, so that should be ok, unless I'm remembering the EGR delete wrong which is highly possible. This would fit with your no hoses going to the Thermo Valve - OK.

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[PredatorSniper]

Hello OP, I live in Wichita and I have a 90 TSi I just purchase a couple of months ago. This is my 3rd DSM. This forum is a good source for everything, take time to research and see what all is available. Good luck and reach out if you need.

-Mike

 

[awdtsi_90]

No the car dose not have ecm/dsmlink. I looked for the connector it would have to be plugged Into the computer and couldn't find it but I did see that the ecu has been opened up because the stickers are ripped on both sides so idk tbh. So much was unknown with this car. Not sure on the size of fuel pump it has, or th3 size of Injectors or they may be stock idk.

The car was driven around the block about 1-1.5 hours earlier. That was before I got the afr down to the 13.7-14. Yes I did replace the sensor for the wideband but I have no clue if it goes to the ecu. and mine dose have the egr delete.

I am ordering a timing belt kit with new water pump because look at this. idk how to do it tho so may have a shop do it

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I can turn my fuel pressure down but if I do then my afr goes up so i turned it back. If i take off the vacuum line, the pressure dose go up on the gauge.

Also is that belt about to break? Dose it still have enough life in it for atleast a few weeks?

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Also, if I turn my fuel pressure down to 43 the afr goes up to 16.5. Can't I just make another adjustment on the MAF Translator. That's how I got the afr down from 18 was I bumped up the knob that reflects the injector size by 2 then i was at the 13.7-14.2. Sorry for all these pics videos and posts guys but thank you very much. I can use as much help with the car as I can and I appreciate everything that has been said far. I'm excited to see there is a dsm still around here. You never see them anymore. We gotta keep thr dsm's alive and strong! Rebuild what we can! Thank you

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[We're on Boost]

If i take off the vacuum line, the pressure dose go up on the gauge.

Yes this is correct. If it is 60 already at basically idle, then it goes up to probably 68 when you take the line off? That's so too high!

Also, if I turn my fuel pressure down to 43 the afr goes up to 16.5.

Yup again. Less fuel same air.

Can't I just make another adjustment on the MAF Translator.

Yes I would think so. That is part of what it should be doing. BTW do you have the manual for the MAF Translator? I have a pdf copy of the manual for the Gen2, and the other pdf they had for how to wire it into a 1g ecu. So I could post those here.

I think your wideband is working OK. That's essential for where you are at now.
I'm worried about what happens to the AFR when you get on the gas pretty hard. If your regulator is working correctly, it will try to raise pressure to possibly 80 or so if you are at say 10 psi of boost. You'd want your AFR to be around 11.0 or even in the high 10's at that point. If it isn't, if it is too high (too lean) you would need to back out of it right away. Would be very bad for the engine, knock basically.
80psi is about where a Walbro 255 starts to drop off pretty bad and might not give you enough fuel. That's a reason for not having the base fuel pressure too high. You have the right idea that base fuel pressure (idle with the vacuum line off) should be about 43 psi.
Usually people only run the base fuel pressure higher if they are trying to make more power than what the injectors can do, so they try raising base pressure to get more through the injectors. But then you run out of fuel pump - unless it's a pretty big pump. Better to put in bigger injectors.

When you say you couldn't find a connector for DSMlink, did you mean you can't find the stock OBD port that should be there in the car? We just helped a guy find that in another thread. His had been kind of chucked behind the fuse box by somebody previous. Can direct you to that thread if you want.

The timing belt does look pretty bad. I imagine it would last a couple weeks if used easy. I'd be more worried about finding a mechanic who would know how to do it right, if you are going to have a shop do it.

 

[We're on Boost]

When you do a new timing belt, you might find that you also need a new tensioner in there, new idler wheels, etc.
Some of those things are no longer available OEM. But JNZ just posted yesterday that they can get this stuff, the real OEM stuff, although sometimes it comes in a "White Box". They are talking about parts for the 6-bolt engine only here, which is what yours should be (1990) unless your car had a different engine put in at some point. These parts are better if they are OEM. Better than Gates or any of the other aftermarket stuff. So check out their post, here:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/6-bolt-timing-kit-madness-oem-quality-aftermarket-pricing.545000/

 

[awdtsi_90]

How do I know if the car has dsmlink? I ordered a kit from stm. it's a gates belt kit that comes with this. I literally just got their last kit. I don't know how to do it myself so unless there is someone around Here that can help and teach me then I will be having to pay a shop to do the timing belt.

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[pauleyman]

I can turn my fuel pressure down but if I do then my afr goes up so i turned it back. If i take off the vacuum line, the pressure dose go up on the gauge.

If that is the case you have other problems.

Also is that belt about to break? Dose it still have enough life in it for atleast a few weeks?

There is no way for us to know this. Would I risk it? No.

How do I know if the car has dsmlink?

you have to pull the ecu and open the case.

I ordered a kit from stm. it's a gates belt kit that comes with this. I literally just got their last kit. I don't know how to do it myself so unless there is someone around Here that can help and teach me then I will be having to pay a shop to do the timing belt.

Choose your shop wisely. My son lives elsewhere sobi couldnt help and he had a shop do his. They messed it up and i had to give them instructions how to fix it. This was not a mom and pop either.

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[We're on Boost]

From what I can see of your setup, I gotta warn you that it will be unsafe to try to make much more power without having a way to correct the ignition timing tables, and to log knock.
With the MAF Translator you can probably get a decent AFR, but it has nothing to correct your timing. And your timing will be too advanced in some places when you are fooling the ECU to run with higher fuel pressure or with bigger injectors. Timing too advanced will cause knock.

On my old setup, the way you see it in the "up through 2015" profile, I was using a GM MAF, and all that timing and logging stuff was taken care of like this: The ECU was modified (programmed) by DSM Chips, which took care of the timing and the 850cc injectors and some other things, and the logging was done with an ECU+ Silver Box which could log knock and was a very nice logger overall. The ECU+ also has its own built in MAF translation that translates from just about anything to just about anything else. That setup was running well and on its way to making quite a bit more power.

How do I know if the car has dsmlink?

You will see this big red chip that says ECMLink inside the ECU if it has dsmlink.

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[awdtsi_90]

I am not trying to make anymore power. I am just trying to clean this up to make this a daily driver.

If that is the case you have other problems.

What other problems would that be? I am no mechanic at all but am learning as I go

 

[pauleyman]

You have a setting wrong on the translator, injector issues oetc.
You really need to know what injectors yiu have and if you have ecmlink (doubtful). You might consider returning to stock at least temporarily to figure out what is what.

 

[We're on Boost]

I live in wichita Kansas. If there are any fellow dsm people around or in wichita I would love some help.

Holy Cats! If you are in Mulvane, you are only 103 miles from Marty Wilson's shop in Independence, KS.
He is @1990TSIAWDTALON in here.
You should take the car there for your timing belt job. I think there will be many Easter Eggs to follow if you get some work done there.
His shop is Wilson Racing and Engine Shop.
He's built lots of 4g63's and is a true DSM guy and a 1990 guy. Yeah!
You could have your car taken there on a AAA flatbed for "free" if you buy the AAA Premier membership. You know, if you don't want to risk driving it there.
The way that works is, they will transport your car up to 200 miles free. They will take your car to the shop, but they won't bring it back. They expect you'll be able to drive it back, or get it back some other way. This is how I get my car to English Racing.
Guess what, you are closer to Marty's shop than I am to English Racing. So you don't have it so bad!