General Jackal - speed density tuning software for 1g DSMs

[Ludachris]

Since the old thread by the Jackal developer was deleted, I'll start a new one to allow people to continue to discuss the project, share experiences, and work out technical issues here in a new thread. If any critical information was lost in the deletion of the old thread, I do apologize.

"Jackal" is a software project developed by ds-map.net for tuning a 1G DSM using Speed Density - you will have to register an account at ds-map.net in order to download the actual software, as that's where the software is being managed and maintained, and probably where support could be found. As of the time of this posting the software download is free. But there are costs associated with going this route, as you'll see below.

Here is the content of the old thread, explaining what you need to do to use the software and how it works:

Speed Density: what is that? Basically Speed Density is a different way to calculate AIR FLOW without needing to MEASURE AIR FLOW. You calculate pressure from a map sensor, over rpm and volumetric efficiency against a table, instead of using a MAF sensor that restrict total air flow. So technically you can never max out speed density based on air flow.

Materials:

• GM-3BAR map sensor (MSD-2313) / Other sensors are supported (GM2Bar, AEM 3.5/5, etc)

• GM-AIT (MSD-2320)

• 3/8 NPT bung (38NPT-S), found at RRE's AEM page under Other Sensors

• A Moates Ostrich unit

Preparation:

• 1) You need to have your ECU socketed, a MAP chip (of course), a palm pilot, and the mmSD logger program.
  
  2) Get the 3/8 NPT bung welded into your IC piping. Make sure to place it after the intercooler, and before any water injection. It can be on either side of the BOV.
  
  3) Install an EGR block off plate. EGR will cause inconsistant MAP readings, because is is allowing exhaust into the intake. The ECU assumes everything in the intake is air.
  
  4) Get a Ostrich which makes this project a real, realtime editing ecu... like aem-ems.

Installation:

• 1) Disconnect the battery, so we don't bake anything.
  
  2) Skip 3 to 4 if you just buy this wire harness, which is $39.99 from Fullthrottletech.com
  
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  3) The MAF wiring we are interested in is MAF sensor pins 4, 6, 7, and 8.
  
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  4a) For Turbo MAF : Connect the MAP sensor A to pin 6, B to pin 7, and C to pin 4.
  A goes to GB (green black)
  B goes to GY (green yellow)
  C goes to GR (green red)
  For NA MAF : Connect the MAP sensor A to pin 4, B to pin 5, and C to pin 3.
  not sure on colors for NA
  
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  4b) Connect the two wires from the GM-AIT to pin 8 and pin 6. It is a resistor, so polarity does not matter.
  
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  5) You will probably want to put a molex connector from radio shack on rather than soldering everything directly to your wiring harness.
  
  6) Put the Ostrich chip into your ECU, be sure that the half circle notch on the chip matches the half circle notch on the socket, and the one printed on the ecu. If it is in backwards your ECU will fry.

Testing:

• Starting it up: Make sure everything's back together, and reconnect the battery.
  
  Turn on the car, but DON'T start it. The CEL should light up, the boost gauge will go halfway up. If the car makes a lot of clicking noises, or the CEL/Boost gauge do not read correctly, turn off the car and recheck your wiring.
  
  Connect the logger, and set it to view MAP, IAT, and Coolant. MAP should be around 1.0 bar, and IAT should be equal to the outside air temp. If the car hasn't been run, coolant temp should also be about equal to this. If either of these are way off, recheck your wiring.
  
  If everything looks good, fire it up, and drive off. The CEL and boost gauge will turn off.

NLTS:

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Wire clutch switch to pin 104. (The Neutral safety switch (AT only, grounded on MTs)

Pics

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[knochgoon24]

I've never seen the Jackal interface before. I like how it's laid out.

 

[eclipsh]

Chris, the other thing not mentioned that is very important for tuning Speed Density is a Wideband O2 sensor. Jackal supports running on a native wideband signal rather than the stock narrowband. This means the ECU is always seeing a REAL AFR as opposed to the unreliable one the stock O2 sends. That makes a huge difference for tuning since you also get to log the wideband signal right along with your boost, RPM, IAT etc.

I've been using this for a couple years now. Basic tuning with it is very straight forward and there are some excellent tutorials on the DS-MAP forums. It is quite possible to get a good base tune with four 4th gear pull logs. Do one 4th gear pull, check the log for your AFR vs. Boost and RPM, correct in the direction you want to go at various points via the %-adjustment column on the left of the VE table (picture below) and do another pull. Lather, rinse, repeat and 1/2 hour later you should be in great shape for WOT conditions.

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[LandoAWD]

Just to confirm I read that right...FOURTH gear pulls. :0

 

[Ludachris]

Thanks Nick. Feel free to post any other updates or info that might have been in the old thread that DSMers will find useful.

 

[toofast82]

Chris, the other thing not mentioned that is very important for tuning Speed Density is a Wideband O2 sensor. Jackal supports running on a native wideband signal rather than the stock narrowband. This means the ECU is always seeing a REAL AFR as opposed to the unreliable one the stock O2 sends. That makes a huge difference for tuning since you also get to log the wideband signal right along with your boost, RPM, IAT etc.

I always used DS-MAP V1 with great success, so I could imagine that Jackal works even better since its the follow up to v1!
I'm stuck in the stone age with the chip burner and a desktop,

I hex coded the "native wideband" code into the ecu and had great success. The car operated flawlessly in closed loop. I would recommend going this route for any Jackal user


I was curious if anyone of the Jackal users have had good success with the BoostDC% tables using the fpr solenoid or a gm 3port solenoid?

 

[Baron4406]

Tried posting on the DS-Map boards and none of my posts make it to the boards there so I have some questions for the guys on here running it. Are you guys running the wideband in the stock location? If you are how long does it take to preheat the sensor like your supposed to when you start the car...assuming you have an LED wired in that tells you its ready. Anyone?

 

[jlr2196]

A majority of us are running the wideband in the stock location with no issues, including myself. I run the Innovate WBO2 & the time to pre-heat is really based off of the calibration of the sensor but mine takes approx 20 seconds.
I highly recommend the purchase of the Innovate wbo2 if using Jackal because it targets 2.5V for stoich, this will give you the ability to run in closed loop operation. The Innovate brand is one of the few that do this plus you can't beat it's prorgrammability for the price.

I was completely new to the world of tuning dsm's and I installed Jackal without an issue, I'm highly impressed with it's ability, makes engine bay very clean, awesome throttle response, easy to tune & great fuel mileage.
First run at the track with STOCK intercooler & stock rubber snorkel intake I ran a 13.2 all the while pegging my afr's at 9.8:1 from 900' through the lights due to the stock intercooler heatsoaking to 200 degF!!
Pretty impressive to say the least, many other dsm'rs were highly impressed.

As stated the software is free.
Socket ecu: $65
Intake air temp sensor: $25
MAP sensor: $50
Innovate WBO2: $150
Ostrich Emulator: $165
Total Cost to convert: $455 with all new components

When I looked at other tuning solutions they ranged from $500 on up WITHOUT hardware or socket service. So if you're on a tight budget (or not) the bottom line is this software works very, very well. Expect to see some fast dsm's running this software.

 

[eclipsh]

Just to confirm I read that right...FOURTH gear pulls. :0

Yup, 4th gear. I start out around 2k RPM's and floor it up until I hit around 75-80mph. It gives a longer more gradual log of change in vacuum and boost. I used to do 3rd gear pulls but switched based on advice on the DS-MAP site. I actually do find it easier to tune with this method. Third gear pulls are just over too fast

I am running my JAW 1.041 wideband O2 in the stock location and have had no issues so far. If you buy your WBO2 from AutoZone they'll warranty it too

Toofast, I haven't had a FPS in the Galant since I built it. I had one in the 1g but didn't do any playing around with it.

 

[toofast82]

Toofast, I haven't had a FPR in the Galant since I built it. I had one in the 1g but didn't do any playing around with it.

I was actually talking about using your old fpr solenoid instead of the stock bcs to run the native boost control.
A lot of 2g guys have used it with the evo ecus because it is a 3port that completely blocks air from the wastegate instead of bleeding off like most mbc do.


I will comment on the wideband sensor in the stock location:
I have read that many dsm/evo guys have had great success with running the wideband sensor for many miles

In my personal experience:
When I originally installed my Innovate LC-1, I put the sensor in the stock location. About 2weeks after installing it, my LC-1 controller and O2 sensor failed. I sent the controller into Innovate and they sent me a new one and had great customer service.
I then drilled a hole further downstream on the downpipe and welded a bung and mounted the sensor there. Since then, I have had no issues with either the controller or sensor.
I can't say for sure that the failure of the controller and sensor was a direct cause of running the sensor in the the stock location, but I didn't want to risk putting it back there again

 

[LandoAWD]

Yup, 4th gear. I start out around 2k RPM's and floor it up until I hit around 75-80mph.

Concern addressed!

 

[the_mork]

I was actually talking about using your old fpr solenoid instead of the stock bcs to run the native boost control.
A lot of 2g guys have used it with the evo ecus because it is a 3port that completely blocks air from the wastegate instead of bleeding off like most mbc do.

I actually no longer suggest this. The FPRs works and is a HUGE improvement over an MBC but when pushing the car to its limits it tends to not be able to hold boost where you want it to without significant enough fluctuations to make the car choppy at the top end. If I dial the car back some it works just fine but I'm likely going to move to a better bcs when I have the opportunity.

 

[donniekak]

Concern addressed!

One of the things i love about AZ. I can do 80 mph tuning pulls, and NOT get a speeding ticket.

 

[IgotBoost91]

around how much would speed density cost?

 

[jlr2196]

around how much would speed density cost?

As stated the Jackal software is FREE, any other true engine management solution is going to cost you $500 or more for JUST THE SOFTWARE! You still have to socket your ecu & buy a wideband O2 sensor regardless of what you use to tune with. So the only extra cost to you is the IAT, MAP sensors & Ostrich Emulator in order to tune "on the fly". You can use a chip burner but the Ostrich Emulator is the only way to go.

Socket ecu (Must have): $65
Intake air temp sensor: $25
MAP sensor: $50
Innovate WBO2 (Must have): $150
Ostrich Emulator: $165
Total Cost to convert: $455 with all new components

 

[toofast82]

I actually no longer suggest this. The FPRs works and is a HUGE improvement over an MBC but when pushing the car to its limits it tends to not be able to hold boost where you want it to without significant enough fluctuations to make the car choppy at the top end. If I dial the car back some it works just fine but I'm likely going to move to a better bcs when I have the opportunity.

Have you played around with a more capable solenoid like the GM 3port or AEM for example?

 

[cookmeup272]

I don't want to start a huge debate or an argument but im gonna post this anyways. Jackal vs ECMLink? When i get my car back on the road, I dont think the SAFC/MAFT is going to be a good choice. I already have an Innovate Wideband in the box...So as far as price is concerned, Jackal sounds like a good way to go. Has anyone made the switch from Jackal to ECMLink or vice versa?

 

[twdorris]

Choose whichever suits you. Just keep the facts in mind.

First, for dsmap or any Ostrich-based solution, you're going to need an Ostrich and a datalogging cable plugged into the laptop. I don't like the extra clutter with the second cable, but it's certainly not a major issue. Just something to keep in mind.

The going rate for the Ostrich and cable is probably around $210 or so, depending on where you get it. That's assuming $175 for the Ostrich as listed on Moates and then $35 for the USB cable.

You'll also need to get your ECU socketed and I don't know what that runs, but one of the previous posters mentioned $65 (seems high, but who knows). If that's the case, then you're looking at $275.

For ECMLink, you have the option of running V3Lite for $345 which includes a molded USB dataloggin cable, clutch cut wire and custom designed reflash module, specifically for DSMs. We can also do the socketing and caps at the same time for $30, bringing the final total to $375. In addition, we offer complete, professional repair options and full testing of the ECU while it's here. We also offer a non-EPROM conversion for 1Gs too.

We've been in the business for nearly 10 years and we've been a part of DSMs for over 15. We still own and track our DSMs regularly too. We're true enthusiasts that have been around a long time and will be around a lot longer.

But we can only continue supporting the DSMs as well as we have if we continue to get support from the users in the community. We are constantly developing new products and cool new features like GM MAF integration inside the ECU, the non-EPROM conversion for the 1G (and soon 2Gs), platform support across 1G, 2G and early EVO lines, etc., etc...

A few dollars in pricing isn't the only thing to consider, IMO. I'm sure that's all opinion, but there's mine.

If you want, you can also watch a few videos of our package in action here to help make up your mind.

ECMLink demos

Hopefully that helps,

Thomas Dorris
ECMTuning, Inc.

 

[99gst_racer]

Yup, 4th gear. I start out around 2k RPM's and floor it up until I hit around 75-80mph.

That doesn't sound like a 4th gear pull at all.

I easily break 100 mph in 3rd... If I did a 4th gear pull, I'd be going 140 mph by the time I let off the throttle. I personally would not be willing to do that every time I wanted to datalog a pull.

 

[jrohner]

Yup, 4th gear. I start out around 2k RPM's and floor it up until I hit around 75-80mph. It gives a longer more gradual log of change in vacuum and boost. I used to do 3rd gear pulls but switched based on advice on the DS-MAP site. I actually do find it easier to tune with this method. Third gear pulls are just over too fast

I don't get it. I break 100 doing 3rd gear logs, and you do 80 in 4th? Do you rev your car like a diesel or something? 4th or 5th are good for tuning the low end, but very unrealistic for top end.

 

[eclipsh]

That doesn't sound like a 4th gear pull at all.

I easily break 100 mph in 3rd... If I did a 4th gear pull, I'd put going 140 mph by the time I let off the throttle. I personally would not be willing to do that every time I wanted to datalog a pull.

I'm not running to redline and don't really need to for the VE Compensation adjustment. The adjustment is based on manifold pressure, not RPM. The 4th gear pull gives a full range of pressures over a nice long log so picking out what is happening around certain pressures becomes much easier. In third gear those changes just happen more rapidly and it makes picking out what happens around the change from vacuum to boost more difficult to follow and tune. This gives a very quick base tune.

For a more detailed tune it is possible to go in and adjust the VE based on RPM using some third gear pulls going to redline. The base VE maps are awfully good and I haven't had a reason to play with this section on my 2.0 build. My 2.4 that goes in this summer may need some changes but there are VE maps others have built available on the DS-MAP website.

Thomas, thanks for all the support you give to DSMs. I haven't used ECMLink but I'm sure it is a great system. To be a fair comparison between the two systems though you'd have compare functionality of the LITE software to that of the Jackal software and add the cost of the speed-density components (MAP sensor, IAT, wiring and possibly the WBO2). If it is just s straight comparison of controllers and software Jackal users are looking at about $200 to get started (logger cables are cheap and easy to build or a USB logger cable can be had on the DS-MAP site). The USB cable for the Ostrich is the same one often used in printers. I've got three or four laying around the house.

In the end I think it is really just what users will feel comfortable with learning to use or having someone else use for them. I chose Jackal because I had friends running it and the initial costs looked lower. Others will probably choose ECMLink because it has been around longer and their friends are running it.

 

[cookmeup272]

Im just wondering what is the easiest and most efficient vs cost and difficulty to install.

 

[the_mork]

Have you played around with a more capable solenoid like the GM 3port or AEM for example?

Nope not yet, but hopefully I will soon. For now the FPRs does do what it needs to on a basic level, I just think there is room for improvement and it is a decent solution for being free.

 

[Baron4406]

3rd gear pulls are better

 

[jlr2196]

Im just wondering what is the easiest and most efficient vs cost and difficulty to install.

Jackal is as easy as trashing the MAF (very sweet for a clean looking engine bay), then drilling a hole in the throttle body elbow and welding in a bung for the IAT sensor & mounting a MAP sensor on the firewall with a vacuum line from a boost/vacuum source to it. Download the Jackal software to your laptop and upload the "base tune" that comes with Jackal to get your car up & running.

I can't speak for ecmlink but I was/am a complete newb to these cars yet it was as easy as 123 to setup Jackal. I researched both & really felt Jackal was the best bang for the buck & many agree that eliminating the stock MAF is a huge improvement. You can buy ecmlink V3lite cheaper than the "loaded" version of Link but Jackal has all the capabilities of the full blown version so you need to compare apples to apples, even at that Jackal still comes out cheaper then V3lite.

Jackal improves monthly with updates & new features that are easily downloadable over the internet. My experience with the Dsmap forum has been AWESOME, these guys are very helpful & knowledgable. My whole experience with Dsmap Jackal has been one of the best, I can't describe how well my car runs..it was a whole new experience from the start of the key, simply amazing.
Check out the Dsmap site & see what you think..Sometimes doing something different than everybody else can be the best thing, it was for me