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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

ITFLYS - 95GSX 2.0L 6-Bolt Crank with 2G pistons, 1G TopEnd, with 2Gb-CamSensor and a Kiggly-CrankSensor - TD05H-Bastard 20G - E85 w 1000cc inj. ~25psi. Street driven track day car.

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KN cone vs Stock airbox
Oh yeah I see. In Feb you posted this:
Stock Air Filter might be the bottleneck. I will try to find a K&N for in the box - A box I want to increase cold air input with a few ideas.
Is this still the plan then?
That's a big difference. I'm a little bit surprised. But I've never really looked at the stock 2g airbox.
It looks like K&N still sells that panel type filter for your car. I'm a little surprised by that too.
K&N Replacement Air Filter for 2G DSM (33-2072)
 
All I did was cut a hole in the bottom of the air box.
Yay!
Although those logged HP numbers are janky all over the place.
I mean, I see 418 hp at 258.627 sec. I see 1,250 hp at 260.123 sec.
I would go more by the airflow which looks like a solid 35-36 lbs/min from 6000 rpm up.
And that is a nice improvement in airflow for just adding a hole!
 
Yay!
Although those logged HP numbers are janky all over the place.
I mean, I see 418 hp at 258.627 sec. I see 1,250 hp at 260.123 sec.
I would go more by the airflow which looks like a solid 35-36 lbs/min from 6000 rpm up.
And that is a nice improvement in airflow for just adding a hole!
400hp at the wheel based on calculations. I'll take it. - Smooth data is a challenge outside of a dyno environment. The road is never smooth enough or level enough. That reminds me - I should drop by the landscape supply yard - they have a drive on scale that anyone can use - if you ask.
 
Smooth data is a challenge outside of a dyno environment. The road is never smooth enough or level enough.
Yeah that's it.
When I tried in here to get whp based on calculations, I looked at the guy's log data and decided to take a shot at calculating the average whp from 6466 to 7239 rpm, rather than trying to come up with point values. I think it was pretty good but I probably should have added more like 80 hp for aero drag, rather than only 60. That was back in 2010.

These days with my own car, I have one dynojet run from ER in 2016 that was with boost turned down to pretty much exactly what I run my car at in the summer, and about the same ethanol % in the fuel. This is dyno run #12 which is not the same run you see in my specs (that is run #13, with more boost).
I find that the 10hp per 1 lb/min airflow rule of thumb gives me the same hp that is on that awd dynojet chart for rpm's between 6000 and 7000.
At rpms below 6000, that relation diverges, the dyno hp is lower than what you would expect from the 10hp per pound of airflow rule.
But between 6000 and 7000 rpm it's extremely close to the "rule". So I just go with that for my own car, and noting that the "hp" would be awd Dynojet hp.
 
Last edited:
I've been carting my original hood through two house moves for this day - I took pictures of my stickers, scaled and cleaned up the images in photoshop, and sent the files online to : https://www.carstickers.com
Here are the warning stickers in PDF with Pantone spot color definitions in the file.
Screenshot 2025-03-07 at 3.05.49 PM.png Screenshot 2025-03-07 at 3.05.03 PM.png
 

Attachments

Ok - what the heck is that step in pressure? I'm reluctant to make edits with this weirdness.
View attachment 759234
What exactly are you asking by step in pressure? Do you mean the boost est vs map sensor reading? If so they never really line up dead on, usually are right around the area like yours is.
The hole tune it's self looks quite good honestly. Little bit of tweaking to get air fuel right on target at some points.

The boost drop off is around what i would expect depending on how it is plumbed. I always use external gates and use the top and bottom port on the waste gate. Sometimes you can hold boost out a bit better this way but i assume you already have it this way by the lock settings for at zero and 100% duty.

Have you pulled plugs to see what the timing mark says on the strap? From my experience a 8:5:1 motor hits MBT around 16-18 degrees of ignition timing.
I have tried anything from 11.1 to 12.5 air fuel target on e85 over the last 10+ years. From my experience the leaner you go does not always pick up power. I see your intake temps are climbing very fast.
Though e85 often does not show knock on the knock sensor you can start to see peppering on the plug.
I often target 11.7 to 12.0 for air fuel. When intake temps are climbing fast i will shoot richer on this, sometimes 11.5. The latent heat evaporation of e85 helps to pull heat out of the incoming air charge. I cannot back up this little bit richer helps to lower the air temp a noticeable amount but it makes me feel better anyway.

I have in a pinch at the track with a car i tune ran things on what i considered and plug's showed to be the ragged edge and everything it had.
This was on e30 even no less but a 9:0 compression car with a hx35 bolt on housing at 33-34psi by memory. We made a pass in the finals at 22 degrees of timing up top and i think around 13-14 at peak tq. The plug's after the pass showed it was speckled yet knock sensor picked up nothing and the burn mark was literally at the base on strap showing we were well beyond mbt likely. Yes the car did run a bit faster but this tune up would not last long i would bet.
 
Well it's pretty wet and 2 rookies have crashed already causing big delays. Sheesh. I'm going to watch the rest of it tomorrow night LOL.
Good defence by Norris a the end, terrible pit strategy for Farrari and that 18 year old in Mercedes finishes 4th - That's a rookie of the year award right there.
 
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