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intercooler install DIY pics

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snakeyes711

10+ Year Contributor
646
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Feb 5, 2009
W-S, North Carolina
I figured I'd post this here for youo guys to check out what I'm ready to do this weekend.

I got a FMIC from CXracing. I got the 28x6x3 with 2" inlets. After I did some researching about what size to get thats what I ended up with.

As for piping I looked at a million kits, even CX quoted me 74.99 for intercooler piping, and couplers. I thought that was ridiculous for some bent aluminum parts. So I dug around in the local scrap yard, and found more aluminum piping then I needed for under 10 dollars! Talk about budget since they charge 1.25 a pound for aluminum.

I also got two pieces of stainless bent at 90*. What I plan on doing is cutting the pipe where its bent then connecting them together for a 180* j pipe from the turbo. Then I'm going to get a small piece of 1/4 inch plate, and trace out the flange, and weld it to the end of the pipe for a super cheap j pipe.

Here what I got so far.
 

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Well, that size intercooler was 40 plus shipping. Then the tubing was 10. I'm up to about 80 now. I need a few couplers, and I'll be all set.

I'd have started today but I had a tig weld test to go take. BOSS! :rocks:I got done with what they had set up for me to weld. the shop manager said. "Hey rob come tell me what YOU think" The guy said... Shit yeah hell he can weld better then I can! I hope they call me. It was for aluminum pipe welding. I was nervous as hell! LOL
 
Well, that size intercooler was 40 plus shipping. Then the tubing was 10. I'm up to about 80 now. I need a few couplers, and I'll be all set.

I'd have started today but I had a tig weld test to go take. BOSS! :rocks:I got done with what they had set up for me to weld. the shop manager said. "Hey rob come tell me what YOU think" The guy said... Shit yeah hell he can weld better then I can! I hope they call me. It was for aluminum pipe welding. I was nervous as hell! LOL

Well, I now have very high expectations for when I see your intercooler setup done:p
How do you plan to route the hot pipe?
On the cold are you going to short route it, or use stock ic pipe location?
 
Well, I now have very high expectations for when I see your intercooler setup done:p
How do you plan to route the hot pipe?
On the cold are you going to short route it, or use stock ic pipe location?

Agreed i want to know the plan. also i would hope you would make it as short as possible with the least amount of bends.:hmm::talon::thumb:
 
Right on least amount of bends, least amount off couplers. I've got that tubing to fab a j pipe with, its going to be turned around back down, and I'll do a bit of custom bending for the j pipe to go as far down as possible to the inlet. I'm also heat wrapping it to save it from heat.

On the outlet side its only being routed back to the current intercooler location as habitat said. I think thats the smartest option, its waay away from heat going up that way plus I still got my bypass valve where it is now. I thought about using the old lower intercooler hose, as I probably could get it to fit up as long as it is. It'll insulate the heat a lot better then aluminum piping will. Even though I'm wrapping it also where I do use it. All I really need will be a 90* bend coming out of the intercooler then I could connect the old pipe to the 90* pipe.

As far as aluminum piping, I've got more then enough to do three kits here as you can see. I'm sure I'll have gobs left over for piping if anyones interested when I'm done. I can bend it, and press a nipple on the ends for you. I can even High polish it if your into that. I thought at first to go with the brushed look. then high temp paint black look. but in the end I think I'll use black heat wrap for it.
 
BTW after researching about FMIC's. When its mounted, and piped in. I'm betting I can run my boost at 16psi, with zero knock, with max timing, all the way up with this setup. LOL

I was wondering though on a recent log I did I noticed the MAP sensor says 21 psi at times? Is THAT the real manifold pressure in there? Is my boost gauge wrong? because thats way more then it should be set.
 
Its really not much I'd say its 1 5/8 to 1 3/4. I'll look into that. My car has ABS installed. But the light stays on 24/7. Id did when I got the car. the brakes work great. But when you stomp on them they do lock up it doesn't bother me really. If that was deleted I'd have a straight shot to the throttle body. Then again I'd have to weld a bypass valve flange on the IC piping too.
 
I got a chance to install the intercooler yesterday I got a bunch to do today but I'll post pics. The downpipe was totally a custom job, and was the hardest part of all. I reused the flange on the old one just cut it off. I looks real good I could do a few more adjustments, and the fan would mount back in with no problems, I had to take it out.
 
I still haven't had time to take pictures. I can tell you some things I noticed after the install. The car runs at an average of 196* to 203. Before it would run more like 189 or lower cruising. So it does run a bit hotter. I used a piece of the old air dam to cover the bottom up so the air only goes to the radiator. I'm wondering if there is a better way to make sure of this.

After driving tonight I felt the intercooler after I got out, and it was ice cold like your fridge I can tell you that. Even when the fan came on after I let it idle for a few I could feel it pulling the air in, and it was cold to the touch. The hot side was a bit warm though. But that is sitting still too with the fan going.

The best part is even running at 206* if I punch it the most knock I got to redline was 4 counts! I thought that was a drastically low for having the boost at 16psi. Timing advance seems to not go below 18* either.

I also noticed a few pounds of boost drop. I have a leak somewhere too though, it sounds like there is a screaming school girl under my hood or a banshee .ROFL I still need to fix that problem. Its only if I hit high boost past 10 psi. the logger shows the high fuel trims pulled back to 96% or so. I'll do a boost leak test tomorrow. I had a double header ball game tonight.
 
I still haven't had time to take pictures. I can tell you some things I noticed after the install. The car runs at an average of 196* to 203. Before it would run more like 189 or lower cruising. So it does run a bit hotter. I used a piece of the old air dam to cover the bottom up so the air only goes to the radiator. I'm wondering if there is a better way to make sure of this.

After driving tonight I felt the intercooler after I got out, and it was ice cold like your fridge I can tell you that. Even when the fan came on after I let it idle for a few I could feel it pulling the air in, and it was cold to the touch. The hot side was a bit warm though. But that is sitting still too with the fan going.

The best part is even running at 206* if I punch it the most knock I got to redline was 4 counts! I thought that was a drastically low for having the boost at 16psi. Timing advance seems to not go below 18* either.

I also noticed a few pounds of boost drop. I have a leak somewhere too though, it sounds like there is a screaming school girl under my hood or a banshee .ROFL I still need to fix that problem. Its only if I hit high boost past 10 psi. the logger shows the high fuel trims pulled back to 96% or so. I'll do a boost leak test tomorrow. I had a double header ball game tonight.




i want pic's to see the progress.
 
Alright so heres my update pics finally. Please disregard my messy engine bay. :D also I took the fan out to take the pic of the j pipe.

Theres a pic of my custom j pipe, I'll be sanding that down, and high temp painting it. Plus theres a pic of the stock cooler location . Also I'll be re routing the piping instead of around the outside, straight through under the radiator there is a perfect hole for a 90* pipe to run to shorten the routing. :rocks:

I really like this set up, no knock all the way to redline.:rocks::thumb:
 

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I like the black couplers, and the intercooler has that sleeping look. I also like the fact that it kept the fog lights where they were to even further keep that stock look. I seriously thought about turning it the other way so the pipes got max air.
 
Is that an exhaust clamp connecting your J pipe to the other part of your intercooler pipe?WTF
 
LOLROFLROFLROFL:shhh:I'll fix it when the couplers get here. It kept blowing the other coupler I had off at high boost. So I extended the j pipe like that, and sealed it with black high temp using a short piece of aluminum pipe, and clamped the hell outta it! Its sealed my fuel trims are 107%, 100%, 104%.
 
So where's the pic of the upper IC pipe? How did that work out? I just picked up a 12x27x3 intercooler for $31 shipped, and now I need some piping. Only thing is the inlet and outlet are 3". Your J-pipe looks great though.

Let me know if you want to make me some piping, I'd really like to figure out how to short-route it though, maybe cut off the curve on the stock bov pipe :hmm:
 
I can make you a j pipe no problem. The only problem was it took me two or three times to get it fitted correct before I finish welded it. Thats a awesome deal on that IC! Thats a pretty big inlet. I can get a hold of 3" aluminum piping it may not be bent correct but you can use it where I did Just go with 2 1/2 piping I can get that too.

Here's what I'm doing for the hot side short route piping. That'll cut out like 3' of that piping I got run right now. I'll work on the other side when I get time. its a little ugly but it'll get the job done. I'm going to cut that hole the steering line runs through a bit bigger, and run it through there.
 

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So where's the pic of the upper IC pipe? How did that work out? I just picked up a 12x27x3 intercooler for $31 shipped, and now I need some piping. Only thing is the inlet and outlet are 3". Your J-pipe looks great though.

Let me know if you want to make me some piping, I'd really like to figure out how to short-route it though, maybe cut off the curve on the stock bov pipe :hmm:

As for the upper IC piping, I still need to fabricate one up. I'm going to get a hold of some 1/4 inch aluminum plate, and use some maybe 1 3/4" aluminum pipe to weld to the IC pipe then short route it, and use the stock BOV. I post up pics when I get the material. I'm going to just go straight down past the intake pipe to the IC, and use a 90* turn coupler there with a small piece of straight pipe through the crash wall. Then I can use the area for the stock IC for a cold air intake.

As for your j pipe, the stainless pipe cost me 20 bucks for two 90* bent pieces. Being exhaust pipe its kinda thick, wouldn't be easy to put a nipple on, but I could weld a thin bead around the end of it for the hose to slip over.
 
looks good, period

Looks good man. Nice work.

Thanks I've been so busy lately I haven't had time to fab anything. When I get mine all set I can weld up some custom piping like this for anybody that'd want some. I could cut out a few BOV plates, and make a few short route upper pipes or something.
 
not yet, I've been having some family problems lately. Work along with it, and playing ball three nights a week, its tough to get around to it.

I did fix my turbo fluttering sound I've been having. I didn't say anything or had time. My sisters boyfriend motivated me to inspect to find out why. I found two loose turbo bolts that were finger loose. So I torqued them back down, and that solved that problem. I'm relieved to know that the turbo is fine, and just a few loose bolts.

I'm wondering how much of that hole under the bumper do I have to cut out for the pipe to fit through it. that, and I may need to extend it a bit longer.
 
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