Installing ARP head studs, please help. Thanks.

[packinkimber45]

Hello everyone, I took off my head the other night and read up on arp studs but did not get enough info on my questions. Here goes...

1. I bought my car with arp head studs already installed. I beleive they have only been installed on the car once, when they were first purchased. Since I took the head off and am hoping to reusing them, how can I tell if they are reusable? Other than a visual check to see if the bolts been stetched. I dont know what the original length of the studs were out of the box, is there anyway to check if it's still in spec to use?

2. Installing them. I understand after cleaning the threads, to hand tight the studs in the block dry (no lube on the bottom threads that go to the block). How about thread sealant?

Then install head gasket, then follows the head. Lube both sides of washer, bottom of nut, and the thread the nut and washer go on. Torque the head studs per head install sequence and 3 stage process on torquing. Am I right so far? Now the big question, I understand the whole 3 stages of torquing ( per arp 80 ft/lbs, 35, 50, 80), but ARP's states to cycle 3-5 times, does this mean... Torque all the studs to proper torque and then loosen, this would be 1 cycle, and repeat 3-4 additional times? Please correct me if I am wrong. Now does this rule apply since this is not the first install (new out of box)?

3. I also came across their new product for lube on their fasteners called Ultra Torque. Reading some articles and per arp video it is more consistent with torque values and within 5% of your desired torque value with the first pull. Does the cycling procedure above apply with using this lube? Or do the same, 3-5 times cycling?

Sorry for the long post, first time installing a head for that matter. And definitely no experience in installing arp head studs and dont have any written instructions. Thanks.

 

[1213579w]

Lube stud going into the block and hand tighten. Wipe away excess lube. Install gasket. Lube top threads. Carefully slide on head. Make sure it is sitting flush with the block. Then tighten it down with the nuts in the correct torque sequence. Have fun!

 

[packinkimber45]

Thank you 1213579w.

More info welcome to address my concerns. Dsm-wisemen and experienced engine builder's feel free to chime in as well. Thanks.

 

[2g 6 bolt swap]

Ok after you have the studs in. Slowly make your way up to 80 lbs. I start at like 30 lbs, and then increase the torque wrench 10-15 lbs at a time until you get to your desired torque. The 3-5 cycles is heat cycles. I usually drive around taking it easy for the first 100 miles. Don't put that 100 miles on the first time you drive. Let the car fully cool down 3-5 times in that 100 mile period. Then retorque the head studs to 80 after the 100 miles and your done. Anything else you need help with?

 

[gsxtasy]

No, actually you were correct the first time. The cycles are to be torqued to spec then loosened then done over again. This is supposed to make all the torque values more even and accurate. I just torque them at 3 intervals going up to the desired final torque. Say I'm shooting for 90ft-lbs, I would go 30-60-90, all in the proper sequence, then loosen and do it again. It's makes your arms tired, but the peace of mind and extra 10 minutes is worth it.

As far as checking the studs themselves, I'm not entirely sure how to go about that. I don't know if you can just check them with a micrometer or what has to be done. I know there is a way, maybe somebody more knowledgeable can step in. Good luck!

-Aaron

 

[vzeoh6om]

your suppose to lube both threaded sides of the stud with a generous amount of the arp lube not just one....u can also use thread locker instead of the lube but not together... It has to be one or the other...torque them down in steps n proper sequence bout 3-4 times like stated... and then do the hundred mile retorque idea.... but as far as inspecting them (besides physical damage and what the eye can see) I would contact arp themselves and see what the have to say

 

[blakktalon]

I just did my studs 2 days ago and after much research and the advice of 2 very experienced friends i did not lube the bottom threads, hand tighten then back off just a tad you dont want to bottom out the stud. Do the torque sequence 5 times if brand new, not sure about used ones however, also put the washers in the head while its off it is much easier than putting them in when the head is on.

 

[BogusSVO]

the reason to tighten/loosen the head studs is to prestrech the studs, its a small amount, this only has to be done with new out the box, since yours are used, you can just 3 step them to the final value.
( there will be 2 diffrent values one for the ARP moly lube, this will be the low one, and one for 30wt motor oil, this will be the higer of the 2.

make sure you clean the bolt holes in the block well, brake clean and compressed air, DO NOT CHASE THE THREADS WITH A TAP!!, a tap will cut/thin the treads in the block and weaken them.
the best way to clean is to take an old head bolt, and take a cut off wheel and groove the bolt longways across the threads.

Personaly I have used a small amount of lube on the threads that go into the block. but it seems lubed or dry will work.

 

[packinkimber45]

the reason to tighten/loosen the head studs is to prestrech the studs, its a small amount, this only has to be done with new out the box, since yours are used, you can just 3 step them to the final value.
( there will be 2 diffrent values one for the ARP moly lube, this will be the low one, and one for 30wt motor oil, this will be the higer of the 2.

make sure you clean the bolt holes in the block well, brake clean and compressed air, DO NOT CHASE THE THREADS WITH A TAP!!, a tap will cut/thin the treads in the block and weaken them.
the best way to clean is to take an old head bolt, and take a cut off wheel and groove the bolt longways across the threads.

Personaly I have used a small amount of lube on the threads that go into the block. but it seems lubed or dry will work.

Thanks, exactly what I was looking for. How about thread sealant? Do 4g63 motors need thread sealant on the studs going into the block? I read something about the sealant to use for studs that are used by water jackets. Bolt trick, that's great. Better than paying $$$ for a thread chase. I think arp wants $60 for theirs. At worse since I dont have an old head bolt I will just buy a new bolt from lowes or home depot with the right thread pitch and make one.

 

[BogusSVO]

you will only need thread sealent if the bolt/stud goes into an open hole that goes into water, if it is a blind hole then sealent is not needed.

 

[Hesh724]

you will only need thread sealent if the bolt/stud goes into an open hole that goes into water, if it is a blind hole then sealent is not needed.

Not trying to steal post but i figure its a valid question. I looked online but cant find a picture that shows which studs go through (wet) holes. No pun intended.

 

[bryanwheat]

Not trying to steal post but i figure its a valid question. I looked online but cant find a picture that shows which studs go through (wet) holes. No pun intended.

None of the holes on a 4g63 go into the coolant passages. On some engines they do, but not these engines.

 

[porkchop]

Mic them to see what they all come out to. If they were over torqued to begin with then they will be out of spec or possibly vary in length from stud to stud.
I have only torqued studs in ft.lb increments(ex:30-60-90) as previously stated, but never re-torqued them because of supposed stretch. Remember these are not torque to yield. Using lube gives you a consistent torque value, but if you use oil it changes things.

 

[HaveBlue83]

Just did mine last weekend.

when I did mine on my 7 bolt i lubed both ends. the 7 bolts didnt have the hex head on the top so I hand tightened them. the 6-bolt studs had the hex inset on the top so I tightened them down into the block.I didn't go crazy tight, but enough that the moly lube squeezed out and the stud was tight in the block. i wiped the stud of excess lube, threw on the gasket, lubed and did 30-60-85 ft lbs and done. the 7 bolt ran fine, and the 6-bolt isn't in the car yet.

honestly I'm sure everyone has their own tricks, but it's pretty easy.

 

[Fourdoor]

New studs and nuts and even the washers will have small imperfections that flatten out a bit when the nut is torqued down. In my job, on high pressure flanges we just do a full star pattern torque sequence, and then 4 hours latter do a clockwise around the perimeter torque check. Then after a system is up to normal operating temperature and pressure we just do a leak check since we can't torque bolts on a system that is under pressure. The "tighten, loosen, and re-tighten" method does the same thing as our 4 hour torque check, and the normal temperature and pressure leak check is like doing the torque check after a few heat cycles of your engine.

Good luck,

Keith

 

[slam816]

do you guys have the head and block plained before reinstallation?