Need help installing ARP head studs

[brute]

Hey guys, just bought my ARP head studs and I need some help installing them. These may sound like stupid questions, but please help, as I've never done this before.

1. Is the allen tipped (top) of the stud used when installing? I see the nut/washer combo, and that fastens the head to the stud. When torquing the nut, does that also tighten the stud into the block?

2. I'm planning on using Loc-tite on the block end of the stud. It says to put it on, put all the studs in, and get the head on and studs torqued before the Loc-tite sets up. Due to this, I would like stud install to go off without a hitch.

3. So, I put on the Loc-tite as I'm installing the individual studs. Tighten them into the block hand-tight, then put on the head gasket and head. Then I put on the nut/washer and torque that down. Is this correct?

4. After how many miles should I pop the valve cover and re-torque them?

Thanks

 

[SinaiTSi]

The allen head side should be facing up, this is so you can tighten them down into the block. Use the lube provided by the ARP's, especially for where the nuts, you don't want to use lock tite there, then you'll never be able to get them off. The lubricant provided by the ARP's is actually a type of anti-sieze. So, you want to put in the studs, snug them with an allen wrench. Throw your head on, and then tighten them down in sequence gradually going tighter. If you're looking from the front of the car, it looks like this:

7 5 2 4 10
9 3 1 6 8

You'll want to torque them down in that sequence starting at 30 then 65 then 100 ft./lbs. One other thing, if you haven't already, you'll have cut the motor mount a little bit. There's a write up on it on vfaq.com. Hope that helps.

 

[brute]

Do I tighten them down with the allen or with the nut? Do I hold an allen on there while tightening the nut?

I was planning to use Loc-tite for the inside-the-block part so I did not have to re-torque them every 10k or so miles. Does this work?

 

[SinaiTSi]

You pop in the studs, with the head off, and then tighten them down with an allen wrench. No, you don't have to hold the allen wrench on there, while tightening the nut after the head goes on either. I've actually heard of people never tightening down the studs into the block, but i wouldn't suggest it. I've actually never heard about putting lock tite on the studs where they go into the block, I really don't think it's necessary and it may create problems in the long run actually if you ever get your block rebuilt. As far when you re-torque them, you do it at 1,500 miles after they were originally put in, then that's it.

 

[project_tsi]

Hey guys, just bought my ARP head studs and I need some help installing them. These may sound like stupid questions, but please help, as I've never done this before.

1. Is the allen tipped (top) of the stud used when installing? I see the nut/washer combo, and that fastens the head to the stud. When torquing the nut, does that also tighten the stud into the block?

2. I'm planning on using Loc-tite on the block end of the stud. It says to put it on, put all the studs in, and get the head on and studs torqued before the Loc-tite sets up. Due to this, I would like stud install to go off without a hitch.

3. So, I put on the Loc-tite as I'm installing the individual studs. Tighten them into the block hand-tight, then put on the head gasket and head. Then I put on the nut/washer and torque that down. Is this correct?

4. After how many miles should I pop the valve cover and re-torque them?

Thanks

1. Tighten the studs into the block hand tight. Use the allen if there is any binding/ etc on the stud. I generally run the stud into the block with the allen all the way, then back it off a turn or so, so it spins freely. If the stud is installed all the way then it can/will yeild you incorrect torque readings.

2. IMO loc-titing the studs in the block is not needed. I've never had a problem. I use a good coating of thread sealer however as some studs protrude into oil chambers.

3. Si. (yes). Try to have a buddy help you as you should try to peform the operation as quickly as possibly if your using the loc-tite method, as if some of the studs harden in place, it can yeilde incorrect torque readings. Make sure you use the ARP assembly lube on the nut/washer and torque in steps of 3. I generally torque 30-60-90, or 95.

4. I generally just check the torque and retorque if needed when I remember. Make sure its not too long. After the first few heat cycles is a good time to retorque.

 

[brute]

project_tsi: You said, "IMO loc-titing the studs in the block is not needed. I've never had a problem. I use a good coating of thread sealer however as some studs protrude into oil chambers."
I was wondering what thread sealer you recommend. I guess I will not go the loc-tite way, so I won't be rushed putting them in. I know loc-tite is a thread sealer, but since I'm not going that direction, is there any kind you prefer or recommend?

Thanks for the help thus far, both of you.

 

[brute]

Is it hard to install a single stud once the head is already on?

 

[project_tsi]

project_tsi: You said, "IMO loc-titing the studs in the block is not needed. I've never had a problem. I use a good coating of thread sealer however as some studs protrude into oil chambers."
I was wondering what thread sealer you recommend. I guess I will not go the loc-tite way, so I won't be rushed putting them in. I know loc-tite is a thread sealer, but since I'm not going that direction, is there any kind you prefer or recommend?

Thanks for the help thus far, both of you.

Brute, I in the past and friends of mine have both used the high heat red thread sealer made by permatex. It can be found here. The tube/ package may not look the same, but in general it is just high heat safe red colored thread sealer.

Is it hard to install a single stud once the head is already on?

This depends where the stud is IMO. The studs in the middle area of the head can be more accessible with common tools more so than the ones that can be a bit "tricky". But yes, the studs CAN be installed with head on the block, although I don't recommend it.

 

[Rex2342]

Another piece of advise would be to put the washers in place in the head before you put the head on. I couldn't get all the washers to sit flush after the head studs were installed and the head was in place. I had to pull the head back off to install the washers.

 

[project_tsi]

Another piece of advise would be to put the washers in place in the head before you put the head on. I couldn't get all the washers to sit flush after the head studs were installed and the head was in place. I had to pull the head back off to install the washers.

I agree. What happens is that some, some of the washers will get caught on the valve
springs an will be hard to get to sit flush in the head. Beacause of this, I generally also
try to put the washers in the head before sitting the head on the block. It still is possible to
put on the washer after the head is on the block, your just going to spend a few more minutes
maneuvering your way around getting it to work.

 

[SinaiTSi]

I 3rd that. When I put my head back on, some of the washers and springs were touching so it wouldn't sit flush. All I did was just put the nut on and tighten it down and it just popped the washer past the springs with no harm done but it would've been easier to put the washers on first nonetheless. Also, have you cut part of the motor mount yet?