Installing the head with arp studs

[talon14turbo]

I have searched but I could not find an answer to my question. Why does the arp bolts have to be installed on the block before placing the head on the block? I am in the process of installing my 1g head on a 6bolt block and I was wondering if it is ok to install the head first, then thread the arp bolts in the block?

In short, is it a reason everyone is installing the bolts before placing the head on the block?

 

[snowborder714]

My guess is people put them in to help line up the head while putting it on. It's not necessary to put them in before hand, seeing as people swap from stock to ARP while leaving the head on. If you have the head on, I don't see why you wouldn't put them in before hand.

 

[talon14turbo]

I was wondering because if it does not matter, I would not have to remove the motor mount bracket to install the head & less chance to scratch the head surface while attempting to line up the bolt holes.

 

[pboglio]

You don't torque the studs into the head, you hand tighten them until they bottom out. Having the studs in place first locates the head gasket during install. Makes sense since it prevents the entire head gasket/head from sliding around before its clamped down. Easy way to gouge something that way.

 

[daren_p]

^^ Exactly & as said, the studs themselves are not supposed to be torqued into the block. When I did mine I actually bottomed them out & then turned them about 1/8th of a turn back, to make sure I'd get a correct torque value on the nut. Used this method, based on some others advise & so far for me I've ran up to 30psi with the stock composite HG & havent had any issues.

 

[z24frank]

Just turn them in by hand,I found that out the hard way.Also make sure its clean nad then thread them in.Mine had all kinds of gunk or whatever when the stock headstuds were in and it made it harder to tighten.

 

[talon14turbo]

Thanks for the quick replies. I know the studs are to be tightened by hand but just wanted to know if it mattered if the studs were put on after seating the head on the gasket.

Can anyone explain the procedure to check the arp studs to evaluate whether they are stretched?

 

[99gst_racer]

Can anyone explain the procedure to check the arp studs to evaluate whether they are stretched?

When brand new, you need to measure each one individually and record their free-standing lengths. After use and upon inspection, remeasure and see if they stretched at all. If they have permanently stretched .001" or more, then they are unusable and need replacement.

 

[talon14turbo]

When brand new, you need to measure each one individually and record their free-standing lengths. After use and upon inspection, remeasure and see if they stretched at all. If they have permanently stretched .001" or more, then they are unusable and need replacement.

Thanks, I will just order a new set to be safe. Any leads on a good place I can order from with fast shipping and not over priced?

^^ ... I actually bottomed them out & then turned them about 1/8th of a turn back, to make sure I'd get a correct torque value on the nut...

Wouldn't it be more consistent if the studs were bottomed and snug assuring that the studs don't turn with some of the nuts and turn with others while torquing the nuts down?

 

[freeman 188]

when I installed mine I had to back some of the studs off .they were very hard to get the washers on and when putting the nuts on they were hitting the valve spring , you could see the nuts shaving the metal from the hitting problem . so I had to push the spring over and screw the nut on with a screwdriver . so take a good look while doing this and make sure it doesn,t send metal into your motor .

 

[z24frank]

I ordered mine from extreme psi.they seemed really fair priced and sent them out fast so I was happy to bad you just missed the sale they had though.

 

[Grescht]

yeah i got mine from extremepsi. Good price and they came in 24 hrs. but i'm only one state over soo.... but i installed mine first before the head. when you bottom them out if there is any oil in there is will seap out through the threads. but my nuts hit the springs too. I just tightened them slowly and the spring just moved out the way. no metal shavings. give it a try.

 

[talon14turbo]

Is this the correct procedure to re-torque the nuts on the studs:

Torque all nuts in sequence (i.e 20, 40, 60, 90), then loosen them all in reverse order and re-tighten them in sequence? Then repeat the entire procedure 3-5x's?

Or should I loosen the nuts one at a time and then re-torque it back up to the final torque value 3-5x's? If so, is this done in original order or reverse order?

Thanks in advance for any help?