Installed Evo16G Turbo, No boost! (Have All Supporting Mods)

[jm1080]

Well today, I finished up the install of Evo16G Turbo, AFI 1050cc Injectors, Fuelab AFPR, and Supra Fuel Pump. All mods in my profile, have dsmlink to tune, have everything, only thing left for me to install is wideband.

Anyways, injectors working set dsmlink to -57% global and 330 deadtime, idles perfect, car feels good. Supra Pump working and quiet

Now turbo is from FP and is ported. Using stock exhaust and o2 manifold. No restrictor (still have balance shafts)

Now I took for a test drive and car runs perfect, but when I pushed pedal 50%, no boost...Always in vac maybe to 0psi. Only way to get into boost is going WOT and even then it takes until maybe 4k-5k to get to atleast 8-10psi. My T25 was way faster than this...My idle is at 900 and vac at 20psi perfectly steady. Everything was installed perfectly, every hose was replaced new and ziptied. Anyone have any idea? Searched and found nothing, unfortunately

 

[EmeryatSTM]

Check and make sure the wastegate actuator is hooked up to the flapper. Also check for boost leaks.


-Em

 

[JusMX141]

Using stock exhaust and o2 manifold.

Are these items ported?

If not, did you happen to notice the outlet of the Evo III 16G's turbine housing is roughly 2.5" while the inlet of the 2G o2 housing is closer to 2"? Same goes for the manifold, only in the reverse order.

Not saying these would necessarily cause a slow-boosting situation, but it most definitely adds turbulence.


Notice the difference in the size of the turbine housing outlet between the Big 16G (left) and Evo III 16G (right) in the photo below:

 

[jm1080]

Check and make sure the wastegate actuator is hooked up to the flapper. Also check for boost leaks.


-Em

Is there a way to check the wastegate actuator without taking off the turbo? Everything went in how it came. Flapper seemed to work.

Also Jus, it looks like the right pic, all that is ported, the stock manifold isn't ported neither is the o2 housing. One thing I noticed in link is that my A/F ratios are at 23 around that area. On my T25 before the 16G they were at 11-14. How do I adjust that in link? I havent adjusted LTFT/STFTs yet, just the global and deadtiming (not sure if that will affect turbo though)

 

[Dsmj89]

Your a/f ratios were at 23 ? Umm wow i'm amazed how your car is still running dude, that's unbelievably lean...
To what did you connect your wastegate actuator to ? Are you sure your flapper isn't stuck open ?

 

[ziggo0]

If your wideband isn't hooked up, how are you getting any AFR reading? Before you installed any of the stuff now you should've put that wideband in.

 

[jm1080]

I'm getting AFR readins through link, not sure if link just puts whatever? But before they were in the 11-14 range.

Also, I think I found problem, I had to turn up boost . Boost was set lowest possible through mbc, so once I turned it up more, it went to 15psi and felt a bit faster than T25, then I went to 20psi and bigger difference, I wish spool was like my T25 though but I do love the pull

I only tuned the injectors with deadtiming and global setting, can I turn up the boost to however much I can since I have supporting mods? Of course I won't go past 25, but just wondering if there is anything needed to do on dsmlink before turning up boost, I have no knock from 20psi and idle and vac perfect. Car does sound deeper though.

 

[Dsmj89]

Anyone else have any insight on this i am interested as well, i changed my plan and instead of going afc im going link next year.

 

[gofer]

what kind of dsmlink do you have (v2/v3) and your AFR's in link are estimated thats why you need a wideband. to get your AFR's close to accurate you need to set it up (im assuming you have v3) quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

and turn the boost BACK DOWN and stop going WOT until you get everything dialed in correctly. unless of course you don't like a working car?
the above link has a hyperlink to the MAF settings as well (do those too) and im blaming your funky boost issues on your wga... where is your boost source for your wga?

remember, even after you set everything up in link those AFR's are estimated so dont use them to street tune or else it could be bad news. IMO you should completely remove your boost control and control boost (10psi) from your wga until your ready to tune it... meaning, installed wideband.



heres additional dial in info from ecmlink
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/howto

 

[jm1080]

Thanks Gofer, also what do you mean by funky boost issues being caused by wg? You mean the slow spool? It doesn't feel too bad, just a bit laggier than T25. I have internal wastegate and have the turbo source to pipe below j-pipe. I didn't think it mattered, that is how Punishment Racings FMIC came, nipple is not on J-pipe it is on the pipe below it.

Also I have v2, using v3 software, I noticed that the AFR rating was reading for 450cc injectors, so I changed them to 1050cc. It now reads 14.7-14.9 at idle and on cruise around 14-17. I will adjust according to wiki and will install wideband soon.

One more thing I noticed it happened only twice, that the car died when coming to a stop. I have FPR set correctly to 43.5 and no leaks at all. I thought that would happen due to being rich? But AFR reads a bit on the leaner side?

 

[gofer]

no problem man, i enjoy helping out where i can... usually its me asking questions but thats how we learn!
im not a dsmlink guru but i know the basics since i just went through the same setup stuff you did just over a month ago.
your boost source for your wga is in a good spot, on the j-pipe or LICP is perfect. now im starting to think you've got a pre-turbo exhaust leak if its laggier feeling cause that 16g should hit hard and right around 3.5k to 4k.
the estAFR might be set for your 1050cc injectors but you need to also compensate for those monsters in your global and deadtime settings if you haven't yet.
baseinjectordata [ECMTuning - wiki]

check for pre turbo exhaust leaks with the car idling... you should be able to hear it! my car would die when coming to a stop if id get into the throttle and brake because it would flood the motor. you setting up your global and deadtime injector settings should fix this too and those AFR's might look good in link but it gets them by taking the info you give it about your injectors not the actual AFR's.

 

[jm1080]

Thanks Gofer! They don't have 1050s in that list though

Is there a guide that shows how to find deadtiming on your own? I use 330 because that is what someone told me to try.

Also I was thinking maybe it is the fuel pressure? I set it to 43.5 and when coming back from a drive and checking it it is around 30 or so at idle. Is that normal? I really searched through 6 pages, and couldn't find anything on that. Not sure if fuel pressure is supposed to drop or if it is supposed to stay steady at 43.5.

 

[gofer]

that 43.5psi is set after you remove the vacuum line going to your AFPR, with the vacuum line attached you should be at 37psi at idle.
your 1050cc injectors aren't on that list but you can look at the 1000cc and the 1150cc injector settings and go smack dab in between... so your global (%) should be -58 and your deadtime (microsec) should be 330 like you were told.




find any exhaust leaks around your exhaust manifold or the top of your turbo? you did use a gasket and all 4 turbo bolts i hope?!

 

[jm1080]

Hmm -58 for global? link estimates -57, not sure if it makes a difference. Also as for FPR, I don't unhook vac line, I turn on fuel pump via link and adjust with hose on to 43.5. But then after a drive it drops to like 30-34 at idle. I tefloned everything! hehe.

As for exhaust leaks, I really can't hear any air leaking out. I'm really a perfectionist when it comes to my car , so I copper sprayed every gasket! I used all new gaskets and use RTV as well on gaskets (for instance oil return) I let it dry overnight, retighten every bolt. So I would doubt there would be an exhaust leak, but is there another way to check? I heard if I pour seafoam I should see it if it does have a leak. But I already changed my oil

 

[gofer]

ive heard of using seafoam to find exhaust leaks but personally have never done it, all your symptoms of slow spool would seem thats what it would be i would think? if you were a nazi about the install and you know its not an exhaust leak above the turbo then possibly your wga is blowing open your wg flapper and not letting it spool up the turbo. you can put a few washers under those (2) 12mm bolts to shim the wga too.
-57 it is, i was just guess-timating since it wasn't on the table. and you set your fuel pressure with the vacuum line off of the AFPR. so activate your fp in link and then remove the vacuum line going to your AFPR and set it to 43.5, re attach the vacuum line and fp set!

 

[jm1080]

Ah so with dsmlink to set FPR, you have to take off the vac hose anyway? I read you keep it on if activating pump through fuel pump

I also read that when shutting off car, there should still show fuel pressure in the FPR gauge. Well as soon as I turn off car and check it is at 0. My car does seem to turn off like in an instant when I shut it off, seems nice, but not sure if normal.

Also, I guess I didn't really update it, but spool is around 3.5k or so (full spool of 20psi) Yes I know I have to lower it, but it addicting! . I will tune it though, using jeffsgst guide and wiki. Will post log, not sure if here or just start a new thread. T25 spooled around 2.8k it was really fast spool! I sort of miss the fast spool. When boost was at lowest like 10psi, my T25 seemed faster! It seems as if I don't have a turbo.

Is there a guide to tune AFRs? Or is it just adding and lowering fuel?

 

[Sam@RRE]

Also DSMlink AFR is a guesstimate until you set the correct setting in for props. In the log tab where all the graphing happens. At the bottom where all the values are, double click AFRest (hence it says Est for estimate, go by your wideband). When you double click you will get a box where you can set the injector size and deadtimes that is used in the estimates. If its assuming you are still running 450cc injectors, the 23:1 AFR EST makes with a -57% global. *__*

 

[snowborder714]

You were correct on how you set your fuel pressure. You only need to disconnect the vacuum line if you intend to set it with the car running.

Post up a log.

 

[gofer]

You were correct on how you set your fuel pressure. You only need to disconnect the vacuum line if you intend to set it with the car running.

Post up a log.

removing that vacuum line wouldn't really do much with the car OFF would it. if you were to remove the vacuum line to set the fuel pressure and just activated the pump in link would it really do anything though? i just hope i didn't give him mis info that could potentially ruin his car.

 

[Calan]

if you were to remove the vacuum line to set the fuel pressure and just activated the pump in link would it really do anything though?

Nope. Like you just said....Doesn't matter if the line is connected or not unless the car's running.

All that line does is manipulate a rubber diaphragm that changes the return pressure. With no boost or vac on the line, pressure is controlled solely by the internal spring (which is what you are adjusting). As boost or vac is applied, the diaphragm modifies the spring pressure, allowing the fuel pressure to change with engine load.

 

[gofer]

All that line does is manipulate a rubber diaphragm that changes the return pressure. With no boost or vac on the line, pressure is controlled solely by the internal spring (which is what you are adjusting). As boost or vac is applied, the diaphragm modifies the spring pressure, allowing the fuel pressure to change with engine load.

thats good news atleast, i was telling him to remove the vac line while setting it with the pump activated in link. it makes sense its not necessary now that i think about it but im glad it wasn't something that could have ruined his afpr... i hate when i get misinformation, then i go and give misinformation.

 

[jm1080]

Ok well I tuned the STFT/LTFTs, only up to 250hz, I'm assuming to tune the rest you would do a 3rd gear pull. I noticed when revving to lets say 150hz, I can hear little misfires, I have NGK 6s right now, so not sure if its time for 7s.

Also I took a 3rd gear pull log, but laptop died so I wasn't able to save, I will make sure to provide one.

Here is log of idle for now:

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Also car died again coming to a stop, not sure what it can be. Could it be spark plugs or bad tune? Thanks again for your help everyone.

One more thing I forgot to add, my LTFT mid and lo are far apart, reading Jeffsgst site, it said to increase deadtiming if that is true. Well I increased all the way to 390 and they didn't change, so I just kept it back to 330.