I need some help choosing cams...

[Spoolin98]

Ive been out of the loop for awhile and Im looking at getting my car back on the road.
I did some research on cams but its just WAY too much input and way too many variables to make an educated decision myself. Thats why Im asking for some help from some people who KNOW what they are talking about.
I want to know which cams would be best for my current setup and why.

My setup is in my profile, but here is just a few things to help anyone willing to help me.

Evo III 16G Ported w/34mm flapper
1g intake mani
1g bored tb
FMIC
6 Bolt swap
1mm Oversized Stainless Steel Valves
JAM Performance Single Springs & Titanium Retainers
Ported exhuast and intake runners
Bored .020 -- 8:2 Wiseco pistons

Im not sure what the numbers are on the Jackson Auto Machining springs and retainers are but that would probably help...

Please no "i would get these because they are my favorite" replies. If its not a response with an explanation please dont respond.

Thank you in advance for your help.

BTW, im looking to get cheaper cams considering I will have to buy different ones when I upgrade the turbo.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Goals for the car, street car, the stockers are fine. Pricing, your budget, ask yourself those first.

 

[DSMTyson]

Some 264s or 272's would be perfect for the Evo 3 16G. I recommend Delta Reginds from ffwdconnection. They have the same specs as the HKS cams(proven) and cost half as much money. I have some on my car right now and they are a great set of cams.

If you plan on upgrading to a larger turbo in the future, I would get the 272's. A set of 272's is only $297 right now.

I'm not trying to advertise for them, but DAMN are these some good deals.

 

[hurricanecris24]

First you havent posted your goals for your car. Is it gonna be a dd? all out drag car? more power down low or up top?

 

[DSMTyson]

First you havent posted your goals for your car. Is it gonna be a dd? all out drag car? more power down low or up top?

From the sound of things, this car is probably the fun car that he drives for enjoyment and to go to the track every now and again.(he's had the car for a while but hasn't used it lately, which means he probably has another DD)

 

[91stocker]

Some 264s or 272's would be perfect for the Evo 3 16G. I recommend Delta Reginds from ffwdconnection. They are the same as the HKS cams and cost half as much money. I have some on my car right now and they are a great set of cams.

If you plan on upgrading to a larger turbo in the future, I would get the 272's. A set of 272's is only $297 right now.

I'm not trying to advertise for them, but DAMN are these some good deals.

This

272/272(not kelfords) make great street cams. BC,HKS, etc pick one that matches your budget. The 272's will give you some room to grow as well.

 

[Spoolin98]

Sorry guys, I should have been a little more informative.

The car made 317whp with the stock cams, the tuner says im "starving" the motor of air. Basically i have oversized valves and port work, but its pointless without some cams.

As my car sits now, FWD, 317whp is plenty for the street, but it would be nice to see what my setup can do with some cams in it. So I dont really have a horsepower goal, just wanted to through some cams in while i have it apart for the fun of it

Its not a daily driver, some track abuse, and I would rather have top end power since all it does is burnout in the low rpms.

DSMTyson, you are correct. Im the second owner, had the car 11 years now. It sits more than it drives only 80k on the frame

From the reading I did, each 272 cam has different specs. Thats why I was asking for help.
If I can get more power from 264's with my setup thats what ill get. Im buying these cams specifically for my current setup. Ill buy other cams for my next turbo.

I was looking at BC 272/272, used for 265 shipped...

 

[-red97rum-]

I would get a set of 272's from Delta Cam (HKS Profile). I was very happy when I started running them. They give great top end power, no big loss down low and they have a nice little lope at idle. It's a proven setup, I was running 12.0 @ 118 on an evoIII 16g with them on a half way decent tune and otherwise stock head.

Save yourself some money and go through Delta directly, just give them a call: Delta Camshaft

 

[Spoolin98]

Thanks for the input

 

[Armandotech]

I have tested both HKS 264 and HKS 272 on evo 3 16g's and by the way the make power and everything I would get the 272's which will make a great cam now and if you want to make 500+ whp in the future they are also great for that.

 

[Spoolin98]

I have tested both HKS 264 and HKS 272 on evo 3 16g's and by the way the make power and everything I would get the 272's which will make a great cam now and if you want to make 500+ whp in the future they are also great for that.

Thats exactly what I was looking to hear...thanks

 

[ziggo0]

What about the SIM 275s? If you plan to upgrade to a bigger turbo, it's pretty much the best between both worlds.

 

[Spoolin98]

I would get a set of 272's from Delta Cam (HKS Profile). I was very happy when I started running them. They give great top end power, no big loss down low and they have a nice little lope at idle. It's a proven setup, I was running 12.0 @ 118 on an evoIII 16g with them on a half way decent tune and otherwise stock head.

Save yourself some money and go through Delta directly, just give them a call: Delta Camshaft

So Delta does the grinds for FFWD?

 

[JacksonAuto]

I see your interest in our spring setup. Just curious, who are you planning to have build your head? Give me a call or shoot me a PM and I'll put together a nice package price for you.

 

[airmail96]

I see your interest in our spring setup. Just curious, who are you planning to have build your head? Give me a call or shoot me a PM and I'll put together a nice package price for you.

I think he already has the setup, he just isn't aware of what they are rated for.

 

[Spoolin98]

I see your interest in our spring setup. Just curious, who are you planning to have build your head? Give me a call or shoot me a PM and I'll put together a nice package price for you.

In case your wondering, YOUR the ones who built my head and block.

*** admin edited - use the Vendor Reviews section for this ***

I think he already has the setup, he just isn't aware of what they are rated for.

Exactly...I refuse to call and find out

 

[JacksonAuto]

PM me your name. I would like to look you up and see what we did for you.

 

[phunny]

From my experience the 272's will provide you what you want for the 16G and leave you room to grow in case you go bigger later.

 

[Spoolin98]

PM me your name. I would like to look you up and see what we did for you.

Read this thread and you will see every which way you screwed me.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/260127-my-2g-6-bolt-build.html

Oh and I forgot to mention that when I gave you the head it had SS studs in it, they were removed when I got the head back and I had to order new ones. I cant remember If I ever got them back from you, If I did I would have put it in the thread. Im not reading through a ton of pages to find out.

From my experience the 272's will provide you what you want for the 16G and leave you room to grow in case you go bigger later.

Thanks for the input, I decided to go with 272 regrinds...I just have to finish tearing the motor down to get the cams out to send in.

 

[Ludachris]

Read this thread and you will see every which way you screwed me.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/260127-my-2g-6-bolt-build.html

Oh and I forgot to mention that when I gave you the head it had SS studs in it, they were removed when I got the head back and I had to order new ones. I cant remember If I ever got them back from you, If I did I would have put it in the thread. Im not reading through a ton of pages to find out.



Thanks for the input, I decided to go with 272 regrinds...I just have to finish tearing the motor down to get the cams out to send in.

Take that to PMs please.

 

[JacksonAuto]

After reading your build thread, I would like to take a few moments to address your issues and defend your comments.

1.) The studs and dipstick issues are inexcusable. Oversights happen and I apologize for that but am disappointed that we were not given the opportunity to correct the situation.

2.) The leaky galley plug. I can see in the photos that sealant was applied to the threads and am sure it was tightened. Not sure why it leaked but I wouldn't be shocked if it were staged so the shop didn't have to R&R the rear main seal for free. Galley plugs typically dont fail. I don't buy it. Things don't add up. If it was the galley plug then why did the shop not see it the FIRST time they had it apart? Because they didn't want to admit they screwed up. The rear main seal is a more likely culprit due to your rich A/F causing blowby coupled with your lack of a functioning PCV system.

3.) The crank pulley being tight happens from time to time. If the diameter of the crank snout is on the high side of the spec and the pulley is on the low side, it will fit tightly. It doesn't mean that anything is wrong or defective. It's just luck of the draw. If there were a problem with the crank, the spacer ring would have been tight too. This is something that is really out of our hands and it's not fair to flame us for it.

4.) Now you've got a rod knock. I don't see how you could possibly place the blame for that on us after you admittedly ran it RICH during break in to the point where the oil smelled like gasoline, had random misfires, bad sensors and were driving the car while you "learned" to tune. Gasoline is not a lubricant and will drastically shorten the life of the bearings. There's no way the engine would have run for 5000 miles if it was assembled, machined or clearanced improperly.


I do not intend to argue with you over any of this but I will not hesitate to defend our company against any and all accusations. We will not tolerate any slanderous comments. I'm certain that a phone call or two would have been all it took to rectify all of your problems. I have yet to see any proof of how you were "screwed". If you have questions or wish to discuss any of this further please call the shop and keep the e-drama off of the forums.

 

[Spoolin98]

After reading your build thread, I would like to take a few moments to address your issues and defend your comments.

1.) The studs and dipstick issues are inexcusable. Oversights happen and I apologize for that but am disappointed that we were not given the opportunity to correct the situation.

2.) The leaky galley plug. I can see in the photos that sealant was applied to the threads and am sure it was tightened. Not sure why it leaked but I wouldn't be shocked if it were staged so the shop didn't have to R&R the rear main seal for free. Galley plugs typically dont fail. I don't buy it. Things don't add up. If it was the galley plug then why did the shop not see it the FIRST time they had it apart? Because they didn't want to admit they screwed up. The rear main seal is a more likely culprit due to your rich A/F causing blowby coupled with your lack of a functioning PCV system.

3.) The crank pulley being tight happens from time to time. If the diameter of the crank snout is on the high side of the spec and the pulley is on the low side, it will fit tightly. It doesn't mean that anything is wrong or defective. It's just luck of the draw. If there were a problem with the crank, the spacer ring would have been tight too. This is something that is really out of our hands and it's not fair to flame us for it.

4.) Now you've got a rod knock. I don't see how you could possibly place the blame for that on us after you admittedly ran it RICH during break in to the point where the oil smelled like gasoline, had random misfires, bad sensors and were driving the car while you "learned" to tune. Gasoline is not a lubricant and will drastically shorten the life of the bearings. There's no way the engine would have run for 5000 miles if it was assembled, machined or clearanced improperly.


I do not intend to argue with you over any of this but I will not hesitate to defend our company against any and all accusations. We will not tolerate any slanderous comments. I'm certain that a phone call or two would have been all it took to rectify all of your problems. I have yet to see any proof of how you were "screwed". If you have questions or wish to discuss any of this further please call the shop and keep the e-drama off of the forums.

You havent seen any proof of how i was screwed? Well reread #1 of your last post.
Im not going to argue with you over this...phone calls were made and like the above statements the blame was put on everyone but yourselves.
Notice this all happened years ago, and i never once "flamed" your company until now. You posted in my thread and I responded...enough said.
Please dont respond to this or any other post of mine. Im through with you and your company.

Sorry Ludachris, this will be the last of my comments on this subject. I been on these forums for years and never break the rules. I was just annoyed and needed to speak my mind...

 

[JacksonAuto]

That's not being screwed, it's called a mistake. You didn't give us a chance to make it right so that's on YOU. I think it's funny that in your build thread you had problems with every vendor or shop you dealt with because of your incompetence. It takes a big pair to blame your mistakes on other people. Let me know how that works out for you in life.

 

[Spoolin98]

That's not being screwed, it's called a mistake. You didn't give us a chance to make it right so that's on YOU. I think it's funny that in your build thread you had problems with every vendor or shop you dealt with because of your incompetence. It takes a big pair to blame your mistakes on other people. Let me know how that works out for you in life.

Yeah I guess my incompetence made you leave a broken oil dipstick in my block right? And my incompetence made you take the head studs out and not put them back in?
And im the one blaming mistakes on other people...
Everything you say is hypocritical.

For everyone reading this, this is the type of unprofessionalism you get from JAM. They have no clue what customer service is or how to be professional.

And I did call about your screw ups, what was I going to do? Ship a block all the way from PA to MD so you could take a broken dipstick out? Or sand the crank down? Or ship the head back for you install studs you took out? I called for the studs, YOU never sent them.

So just stop replying before you ruin your creditability with the customers who actually do like JAM.

Can a moderator please close this thread so I don't have to read these worthless replies.

 

[D's GS-T]

Stop clogging up this thread with this nonsense. PM Jackson and figure something out.