2G I just need help

[grossman99]

Ok. I know this all has been said already and gone over in other threads but I can’t find what I’m specifically looking for for my situation.

Here’s the build: 1997 eclipse GS-T swapped with a 95 Talon 6 bolt 4G63. Stage 3 ACT Clutch,
oe spec pistons, forged rods (forget the brand) stage 3 head, ported and polished. Hks atmospheric BOV, Greddy Fmic, 70mm journal bearing turbo, forced performance intake. AEM
electronic boost controller, 38mm external
wastegate, aftermarket exhaust. Mishimoto
radiator with reversed fans. ECU was sent off to DSMLINK.

Right now, she barely idles. Takes a long time to start and sputters and sputters till she does. Takes some rpm’s and then drops back off. Will drive for about 10 feet then fall flat on its face and dies. Runs real rich as well. You can smell the fuel overloading. Fuel pump primes when you turn the key to the “on” position. Already rerouted the plug wires to the correct diagram, and have taken the whole kit apart from the turbo to the throttle body to fix any potential boost leaks. I am not going to lie, this is my first venture with any car of this type. I am a big v8 magnum guy but thought this could be interesting.

The AEM truboost controller has started throwing the ERS code which means it’s either disconnected or faulted out. Temp sensor doesn’t work for some reason and GLOWSHIFT oil pressure sensor has doesn’t work as well. The power comes on for it all but no readings. AEM airfuel gauge works as well as stock boost gauge. Blow off doesn’t seem to work either

I drove her about 10 feet today and she way over heated and started pissing coolant from an unknown location. It’s too low to see under but is in the photos. Engine hasn’t even been drove on the street since full build.

Any help or knowledge would just be fantastic.

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[Mello]

See you joined our forum today. Welcome aboard. Please make a vehicle profile as quick as possible so we can come up to speed on your car.
Sounds like you have multiple issue so best to address them one at a time. No coolant sensor will cause problems like no start, hard to start & rich fuel trims. No CTS forces the ECU to default into limp mode and supply extra fuel. I would recommend fixing this first & then come back & let us know what changed & how things are after the coolant sensor changed. What size injectors? What do you have to tune with? Stock size injectors will not be suffiecent for your 70mm turbo & I bet they have been changed to large which will deliver too much fuel under all conditions.

 

[Dericsh]

Post a log from from your ecmlink so someone that knows what they are looking at (not me) can pinpoint some issues for you quickly.

I don’t think this is the cause of your main problem but something I notice is that you’re running a MAF with an atmospheric blow off valve, the ecu is expecting that air that’s being lost and that can cause some issues as well.

Welcome to the forum! You’re in the right place- just help us help you!

 

[DSMPT]

Welcome!
I believe that you have multiple issues.
It seems you have no O2 sensor in the factory location. Where do you have the sensor?

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[grossman99]

See you joined our forum today. Welcome aboard. Please make a vehicle profile as quick as possible so we can come up to speed on your car.
Sounds like you have multiple issue so best to address them one at a time. No coolant sensor will cause problems like no start, hard to start & rich fuel trims. No CTS forces the ECU to default into limp mode and supply extra fuel. I would recommend fixing this first & then come back & let us know what changed & how things are after the coolant sensor changed. What size injectors? What do you have to tune with? Stock size injectors will not be suffiecent for your 70mm turbo & I bet they have been changed to large which will deliver too much fuel under all conditions.

I couldn’t tell you what size injectors. I bought the car like this knowing just a little. But When I have time, I will strip the fuel rail off and see if I can find out what size they are. Also, I seem to not be able to even find the coolant sensor on this engine. Like I said, I’m not really familiar with these engines. If I could have a location, that could be helpful. Hopefully it’s just unplugged.

Welcome!
I believe that you have multiple issues.
It seems you have no O2 sensor in the factory location. Where do you have the sensor?

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I didn’t know there was suppose to be an O2 sensor there! I know there is still an O2 sensor on the exhaust after the first cat and then a wide band on the downpipe

 

[Mello]

Coolant sensor is in the thermostat housing from the factory. There are 2, a one wire sensor for the instrument cluster light & us idiots behind the wheel, the other with 2 wires for the ECU. After you get your car running the next thing you should put on your to do list is maintenance, especially the timing belt if you don't know the age & mileage of the belt on your car.

 

[grossman99]

Post a log from from your ecmlink so someone that knows what they are looking at (not me) can pinpoint some issues for you quickly.

I don’t think this is the cause of your main problem but something I notice is that you’re running a MAF with an atmospheric blow off valve, the ecu is expecting that air that’s being lost and that can cause some issues as well.

Welcome to the forum! You’re in the right place- just help us hel

Coolant sensor is in the thermostat housing from the factory. There are 2, a one wire sensor for the instrument cluster light & us idiots behind the wheel, the other with 2 wires for the ECU. After you get your car running the next thing you should put on your to do list is maintenance, especially the timing belt if you don't know the age & mileage of the belt on your car.

the timing belt doesn’t matter. This car hasn’t even been driven on the road a mile since it was fully built. I will check those sensors out tomorrow. Hopefully they’re just unplugged and the wires aren’t damaged nor the sensors bad.

 

[Xarzor]

One thing I noticed is I don't see a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. From the photos it almost looks like its still the stock one on the end of the fuel rail. If you can hear the pump kick in at key on I'm gonna assume it's not stock either.

Might have a over fueling issue.

No coolant sensor will cause problems like no start, hard to start & rich fuel trims. No CTS forces the ECU to default into limp mode and supply extra fuel.

I did notice in one picture below the radiator cap it appears both sensors are installed and plugged in, but, that doesn't mean they are working properly.

 

[grossman99]

One thing I noticed is I don't see a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. From the photos it almost looks like its still the stock one on the end of the fuel rail. If you can hear the pump kick in at key on I'm gonna assume it's not stock either.

Might have a over fueling issue.



I did notice in one picture below the radiator cap it appears both sensors are installed and plugged in, but, that doesn't mean they are working properly.

How am I to regulate fuel pressure without changing out that regulator to an aftermarket one? Or is an aftermarket one the only way

 

[Xarzor]

You will have to purchase one. Extreme PSI and STM both sell kits for 1G and 2G cars. Around $300 will get you plug and play kit.

 

[grossman99]

Okay. 550cc AUS highflow injectors, dw400 fuel pump pushing 415 lph. I replaced the plug because the old were fouled out. Got my coolant temp sensors, aem boost controller and oil pressure sensor all working. As well as redid a lot of wiring that was just, horrid. Redid my vac lines to where it would make more sense. Pulled the ecu out as well and verified that it is an eprom ad well as has the dsmlink v3 installed. My fuel pressure regulator and new and bigger fuel filter will be in tomorrow.

The car started running good so I got her out of the driveway. Took her around the block as well. This is the first time in years this has happened and the first time on the engine. At 3k, rpm’s plummeted to about 800 till I let off the throttle. Felt like a fuel cut but I’m not too familiar. Boost gauges weren’t showing any boost either so was it a boost cut as if I still have more boost leaks? Tried driving it again and it went back to normal just dying under any type of load.

 

[Dericsh]

Did you find the cable for the ecmlink so you can hook up to a laptop?

 

[grossman99]

Did you find the cable for the ecmlink so you can hook up to a laptop?

If I know what cable it is, I can look for one! But I am still learning what I’m even looking at. I found the “OBD2” port when extracting the ecu. I’m not familiar with how that works either. Do I just plug it into my laptop through whichever port it is and then it automatically lets me be able to “tune” it? I’m not the one who did all these mods and the person I got the car from said he didn’t know anything about the dsmlink, just that he sent it off to be modified so it can be tuned.

 

[Dericsh]

When you looked at the chip, was it ecmlink v3?

If so, you’re looking for THIS cable. Hopefully you can find it in the car somewhere and not have to repurchase it.

Here is the ecmlink wiki page. Hopefully that can begin to answer some of your questions about it.

I feel like since you got it to idle decent, we might find out that the tune is the only thing holding you back from driving now.

 

[grossman99]

If so, your looking for THIS cable. Hopefully you can find it in the car somewhere and not have to repurchase it.

Here is the ecmlink wiki page. Hopefully that can begin to answer some of your questions about it.

I feel like since you got it to idle decent, we might find out that the tune is the only thing holding you back from driving now.

I will run through the car tomorrow up and down to see if I can’t find it. Otherwise, I will have to purchase it and then we will see. Like I said, maybe it a a fuel issue and my new regulator and filter tomorrow will fix everything? Was told that there was just a “base” tune out into the ecu so it should run with just stock boost parameters if I’m not mistaken.

 

[Dericsh]

The fuel parts you ordered will be needed and good to have. Whatever base tune is on there might get you by but there are lots of little things that, as mentioned earlier, someone smarter than me will be able to pick up very quickly if you could post a quick log of the car running. Things such as: are you suppose to be simulating the front o2 sensor that’s missing? We need to know if some certain boxes are checked if that makes any sense.

 

[grossman99]

The fuel parts you ordered will be needed and good to have. Whatever base tune is on there might get you by but there are lots of little things that, as mentioned earlier, someone smarter than me will be able to pick up very quickly if you could post a quick log of the car running. Things such as: are you suppose to be simulating the front o2 sensor that’s missing? We need to know if some certain boxes are checked if that makes any sense.

That front o2 is there. It’s just lower on the down pipe than the stock location.

The fuel parts you ordered will be needed and good to have. Whatever base tune is on there might get you by but there are lots of little things that, as mentioned earlier, someone smarter than me will be able to pick up very quickly if you could post a quick log of the car running. Things such as: are you suppose to be simulating the front o2 sensor that’s missing? We need to know if some certain boxes are checked if that makes any sense.

makes a lot of sense. Like I said, I will look through the car tomorrow to hopefully find that cord. If not, I will need to wait a little while to get a little more lonely to spend, then I will buy a new one and we will see what happens. Will keep everything updated though as I go.

 

[grossman99]

That front o2 is there. It’s just lower on the down pipe than the stock location.

makes a lot of sense. Like I said, I will look through the car tomorrow to hopefully find that cord. If not, I will need to wait a little while to get a little more lonely to spend, then I will buy a new one and we will see what happens. Will keep everything updated though as I go.

couldnt find the cord in the car so i bought a new one this morning. Should be here by tuesday

 

[Xarzor]

I'm very interested to see what the issue is. Did you ever find the size of your injectors?

 

[grossman99]

I'm very interested to see what the issue is. Did you ever find the size of your injectors?

They are 550s

 

[grossman99]

Okay. So I got my fuel system installed and she’s back to running decent. About 950-1000 rpm’s at warm idle and 22psi oil pressure. Both boost gauges says -19 though. She drives as long as I don’t put her under boost. Afpr is set at about 43psi. TPS comes in tomorrow to help a little with the surges I think. But idk. I think it comes down to tuning at this point?

 

[Dericsh]

I think it comes down to tuning at this point?

I think you’re right.

 

[Xarzor]

Sounds like tuning 100%. Once you get to building boost you will have to address your blowoff valve not recirculating. This will cause a rich fuel spike between gear shifts. Switching to SD might be a good choice.

 

[grossman99]

Sounds like tuning 100%. Once you get to building boost you will have to address your blowoff valve not recirculating. This will cause a rich fuel spike between gear shifts. Switching to SD might be a good choice.

Okay so, checked timing. Crank was correct on tdc but, tdc for cylinder 4. Tore it down and made tdc for crank be for cylinder 1. Talk about a pain with the engine in the car. BUT, she wanted to start much better. Ran better too but still didn’t want to drive. Killed itself right as any boost started building. What is an SD as well?

 

[pauleyman]

Okay so, checked timing. Crank was correct on tdc but, tdc for cylinder 4. Tore it down and made tdc for crank be for cylinder 1. Talk about a pain with the engine in the car. BUT, she wanted to start much better. Ran better too but still didn’t want to drive. Killed itself right as any boost started building. What is an SD as well?

Explain this please. Doesn't make any sense. TDC is TDC. You set the mark on the crank and see where the cams are. If you retain balance shafts you have to rotate the motor 6 times before you will get a crank TDC and cams to line up again. Without balance shafts it's every 2 turns of the crank. I ki da think you just did a bunch of work you didnt have to.