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2G I just need help

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grossman99

Proven Member
39
8
Jul 19, 2022
North Wilkesboro, North Carolina
Ok. I know this all has been said already and gone over in other threads but I can’t find what I’m specifically looking for for my situation.

Here’s the build: 1997 eclipse GS-T swapped with a 95 Talon 6 bolt 4G63. Stage 3 ACT Clutch,
oe spec pistons, forged rods (forget the brand) stage 3 head, ported and polished. Hks atmospheric BOV, Greddy Fmic, 70mm journal bearing turbo, forced performance intake. AEM
electronic boost controller, 38mm external
wastegate, aftermarket exhaust. Mishimoto
radiator with reversed fans. ECU was sent off to DSMLINK.

Right now, she barely idles. Takes a long time to start and sputters and sputters till she does. Takes some rpm’s and then drops back off. Will drive for about 10 feet then fall flat on its face and dies. Runs real rich as well. You can smell the fuel overloading. Fuel pump primes when you turn the key to the “on” position. Already rerouted the plug wires to the correct diagram, and have taken the whole kit apart from the turbo to the throttle body to fix any potential boost leaks. I am not going to lie, this is my first venture with any car of this type. I am a big v8 magnum guy but thought this could be interesting.

The AEM truboost controller has started throwing the ERS code which means it’s either disconnected or faulted out. Temp sensor doesn’t work for some reason and GLOWSHIFT oil pressure sensor has doesn’t work as well. The power comes on for it all but no readings. AEM airfuel gauge works as well as stock boost gauge. Blow off doesn’t seem to work either

I drove her about 10 feet today and she way over heated and started pissing coolant from an unknown location. It’s too low to see under but is in the photos. Engine hasn’t even been drove on the street since full build.

Any help or knowledge would just be fantastic.
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The ECU is adding 16% fuel. What size of injectors are in the car? It is set for 560's but acts like it only has stock 450s on a quick glance while I shuffle around work. The global fuel is off, put it at zero and see if it will start and run. It is sitting at -19% now, -10% should make it closer on long term and short term fuel trims.
If you reset the global, do another log and post it.
 
-TPS should be .63v at idle and 5v at WOT. I would manually adjust the tps to get those values. If it's still off, you can make the adjustments in link.
- It's starting to get hot 226*. Figure out why
-You have 3 dtc codes 0135, 0141, 0120.
-Do you have an omni 3 bar map sensor?

The ECU is adding 16% fuel. What size of injectors are in the car? It is set for 560's but acts like it only has stock 450s on a quick glance while I shuffle around work. The global fuel is off, put it at zero and see if it will start and run. It is sitting at -19% now, -10% should make it closer on long term and short term fuel trims.
If you reset the global, do another log and post it.
Marty he has 550's so those seem correct.
 
-TPS should be .63v at idle and 5v at WOT. I would manually adjust the tps to get those values. If it's still off, you can make the adjustments in link.
- It's starting to get hot 226*. Figure out why
-You have 3 dtc codes 0135, 0141, 0120.
-Do you have an omni 3 bar map sensor?
getting hot because the thermostat decided to quit on me last night. I didnt see that till I stopped te video and saw that it was that hot. Im not getting her to temp again until I replace that thermostat. No I do not have an omni 3 bar sensor. I have the stock MDP sensor. The first two codes are for O2 sensors getting too much current while hot. The last one is for the tps is getting wrong voltage. New sensor just installed and wiring is perfect. So im not sure whats going on.

Marty he has 550's so those seem correct.
I do have 550s and the deadtime is what the dsm wiki page recommends and the calculator gave me the global percentage.

This one was done last night after I installed stock fuel trims and timing.
 

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getting hot because the thermostat decided to quit on me last night. I didnt see that till I stopped te video and saw that it was that hot. Im not getting her to temp again until I replace that thermostat. No I do not have an omni 3 bar sensor. I have the stock MDP sensor. The first two codes are for O2 sensors getting too much current while hot. The last one is for the tps is getting wrong voltage. New sensor just installed and wiring is perfect. So im not sure whats going on.
You have to adjust the tps. Loosen the two bolts, start a stream and turn the tps is until voltage is .63, then tighten down the bolts. Engine does not have to be running. Under ECU Inputs, change MAP sensor type to undefined. Clear the codes and start another log and post it.

Are you using the WB as front O2?

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You have to adjust the tps. Loosen the two bolts, start a stream and turn the tps is until voltage is .63, then tighten down the bolts. Engine does not have to be running. Under ECU Inputs, change MAP sensor type to undefined. Clear the codes and start another log and post it.

Are you using the WB as front O2?

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I do believe that it is the wideband.
 
just rotated the tps. now reads .63V
It needs an o2 signal so it can control fuel in closedloop. If you only have the wb (without front o2 sensor), the narrowband output needs to be wired to the ecu and also make the changes in link so it knows you’re doing this.

 
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It needs an o2 signal so it can control fuel in closedloop. If you only have the wb (without front o2 sensor), the narrowband output needs to be wired to the ecu and also make the changes in link so it knows you’re doing this.

the wideband is directly wired into the harness to the ecu. The O2 is pushed back more towards the rear O2
 
In total you have 2 sensors in the exhaust, a WB and one behind it? Please read the highlighted below. Do you have one or two wires from WB to ecu?

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In total you have 2 sensors in the exhaust, a WB and one behind it? Please read the highlighted below. Do you have one or two wires from WB to ecu?

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Ill go check the ECU but I am very unsure on what port it will be on. Keep in mind, Im not the one who built this car and im very new to dsm. I have a Glowshift A/F ratio wideband kit.

Ill go check the ECU but I am very unsure on what port it will be on. Keep in mind, Im not the one who built this car and im very new to dsm. I have a Glowshift A/F ratio wideband kit.
and yes, I still do have my stock rear O2.
 
Ill go check the ECU but I am very unsure on what port it will be on. Keep in mind, Im not the one who built this car and im very new to dsm. I have a Glowshift A/F ratio wideband kit.
All good man. We’re all here to help. Idk if the glow shift wb has a 0-1v output tbh. Just google it and make sure it has it.
 
All good man. We’re all here to help. Idk if the glow shift wb has a 0-1v output tbh. Just google it and make sure it has it.
"This gauge utilizes a 12 volt wideband controller that features a 0 to 5 volt digital output, allowing you to connect to virtually any data logging or engine management system."
 
"This gauge utilizes a 12 volt wideband controller that features a 0 to 5 volt digital output, allowing you to connect to virtually any data logging or engine management system."
So it only has a wb a/f 0-5v output. You’ll have to buy a front o2 sensor, get a bung welded to the downpipe and connect it to the harness under the thermostat housing.

You’ll want to wire that 0-5v output to one of the available inputs on the ecu so you can log afr’s.
 
So it only has a wb a/f 0-5v output. You’ll have to buy a front o2 sensor, get a bung welded to the downpipe and connect it to the harness under the thermostat housing.

You’ll want to wire that 0-5v output to one of the available inputs on the ecu so you can log afr’s.
Just did some digging into it. The front O2 sensor is true. It is an O2. The one behind it is my wideband according to all the wiring. I chased it all the way from the gauge to the bung and all the way back to the ecu. The wideband harness connects to the ecu via one wire as well.
 
Does it just need a pin assignment for the WB then? What do you see Tony? I am not able to look at the log as the company is changing over from a tower to a laptop currently.
 
Just did some digging into it. The front O2 sensor is true. It is an O2. The one behind it is my wideband according to all the wiring. I chased it all the way from the gauge to the bung and all the way back to the ecu. The wideband harness connects to the ecu via one wire as well.
Hmm. Look at post 58 and you’ll see the front o2 signal close to 5v. It should be 0-1v so something is off. Can you post a pic of where the wb is wired to ecu?

Here is the pin out.

NOTE THE ORIENTATION YOU’RE LOOKING AT THE CONNECTOR

Does it just need a pin assignment for the WB then? What do you see Tony? I am not able to look at the log as the company is changing over from a tower to a laptop currently.

His wb doesn’t have a narrowband output so he needs the front o2. I’m curious to see where his 0-5v output is wired to. I don’t recall seeing a wb displayed on his screenshot but I’ll go back and double check.
 
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Ok. So what it looks like is I need to do some rewiring. Gowshift oil pressure sensor and gauge, glow shift gauge, and my a/f gauge and sensor are all tied together and the jumper to the ecu goes into 72. Thats the wrong pin for my wideband. so rewire and throw another log?
 
Ok. So what it looks like is I need to do some rewiring. Gowshift oil pressure sensor and gauge, glow shift gauge, and my a/f gauge and sensor are all tied together and the jumper to the ecu goes into 72. Thats the wrong pin for my wideband. so rewire and throw another log?
None of those should go to the ecu expect for the wb output. 72 is for intake air temp so find that wire and wire it back in. If you don’t have a catalytic converter, I would use the rear o2 input to log your wb. You’ll have to set this up in link once it’s wired in. And yes, post another log.
 
TPS still not corrected. Same as before
Why did you change the MAF slider?

To capture and display your WB. Start at 17:00 mark and only differences are brand and located in rear o2.

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TPS still not corrected. Same as before
Why did you change the MAF slider?
i rotated the tps to where it was correct. I will chreck it again and make sure it didnt somehow move. And thats the graph it gave me for the 2g hacked maf. Just ran a stream and its saying that my tps though is still where it needs to be at .65v
 
When you run a stream, it does not save the log so I assume you loaded an old log. Zero out the MAF slider. Post another log of it idling.

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When you run a stream, it does not save the log so I assume you loaded an old log. Zero out the MAF slider. Post another log of it idling.

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doesnt want to run with the mafcomp zeroed out. at all.

new
 

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