The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

HPDE3 Report: 2g Talon with cooling mods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ambient temperatures are 90s with track temperatures as high as 115. We have large groups so getting clean air is difficult, thats why i keep the fan on.
 
I know that OP is planning on installing a hood vent and a few have mentioned using one but, no one seems to be stressing the importance of letting the heat out and how much more effective that makes all these other mods. All the air intake in the world won't flow through a blocked airpath.
 
I can't speak for the rest of them, but that's one of the reasons I recommended awdfun to get a hood vent. Since he has air flow going in, he also needs airflow going out. Same theory as my "bumper vent" thread but I can't seem to find an easy way to install intake vents on the front of the bumper.
 
Good timing for this thread. I'm currently working on my cooling set-up for my Talon that I'm building exclusively for road racing. I've been thinking about ditching my FMIC and running a stock SMIC. This would free up a lot of airflow to the radiator as well as save me 4 points (the series I want to run is point per mod based). Not to threadjack, but would a stock sidemount be able to support around 200-215 awhp without suffering from major heatsoak?

I really like the ducting and sealing everything off idea. Just ditched my stock latch last night actually so I can seal up that area.
 
Just read the write up, sure must have felt nice later realizing you out ran drivers equipped with cars such as the GT-R and Zo6. Just goes to show
driving skill > Super car.
 
My track car, the old Archer racing car, uses a thicker side mount in the stock location. This setup works great and I have no cooling issues. The car uses the stock radiator and one stock fan. Coolant temps max out around 210 on hot days. the car is ~240 hp at the wheels at 15 psi.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Thanks for the pics! Definately got a few ideas brewing in my head.

I'm assuming the silver oil cooler is engine oil, and the black one is tranny oil?

And the stock power steering cooler seems to be adequate...
 
Last year I was having on-track overheating issues after installing my SSAC FMIC. I had DSMLink set to light my CEL at 225º coolant temps and after 10 minutes or so of lapping it would light up. At the time I had the stock radiator & thermostat, A/C removed, both OEM fans installed and rewired to activate with the A/C button, 50/50 coolant, both stock exhaust heat shields, and ductwork between the FMIC & radiator, and a cold air intake.

Then I got an aluminum radiator which is 1.5" thick (versus 1" stock). Hit the track again and experienced the same problem. D'oh!

This year I've tried few more things. I picked up a 170º thermostat (versus 180º stock), WaterWetter, switched to 100% water (after two thorough flushes), and improved my FMIC ducting. This did the trick! I went from 225º+ coolant temps to a solid 190º on-track.

Regarding my FMIC ducting… Initially what I did was cut the stock radiator ducting to fit, and supplemented it with aluminum sheet metal and foam pipe insulation. It was sealed up pretty good, however only half the FMIC was exposed to airflow and there was still a small area around the hood latch for air to escape before passing through the radiator.

So what I did this year was apply some aluminum foil duct tape to the top / sides of the radiator ducting to seal it against the radiator support. This forces any air passing through the FMIC to also pass through the radiator. Also, to better expose the FMIC to airflow, I opened up the bottom of my bumper support more and sealed the sides & top against the FMIC to create a vertical “scoop”. It’s difficult to explain with words, so looking at the following album might help make more sense: FMIC Install pictures by scmcint - Photobucket

This year I also installed an external oil cooler, but there appears to be an issue with its thermostat as the cooler never sees oil flow. That’s a topic for another discussion. The relevant point is that with NO oil cooling whatsoever (removed the stock oil cooler), my on-track coolant temps were still a steady 190º. I’d chalk that up as a success! :thumb:
 
Scott is rather lucky to have his OEM Rad Ducting.
The PO got rid of the ducting on my car, so I'll have to fab up something out of sheet metal.
I did in fact make that ducting that Tsiboosted posted up, and it came out nicely, but there is a lot of open space up top that'll allow air to escape.
I have to flush my coolant system, so I'll be redoing the coolant and water wetter.
I'll also be installing my 170* T-Stat this evening and hopefully will see another improvement.

I will be revising the ducting to close up the top and hopefully will see improvements like Scott.
 
SPC upper front arms

Is the picture you posted (#5) your "track" height w/ these installed? Very curious on this, your car looks more dropped than most with the SPCs who actually use them, and great to btw. :cool: This is one mod I feel my car is sorely lacking, but we all know about the drawbacks / less than optimal design.

Also, is that a DVDT FMIC I see? I always thought my FMIC would never work on track (20 min sessions), and am always contemplating trading for an air to water setup. It seems as if you've resolved your issues. Nice!
 
UofACats, that is the "standard" height - though that pic makes it look a bit lower than it actually is. I bought the JIC's muellerized, and have never touched them besides the damping clickers. Hopefully soon I'll have a spare set of wheels with race tires, at which point I'll get serious about suspension/alignment setup.

In the mean time, my rear JIC shafts are starting to corrode, so I don't expect the shock seals to last more than a few more events. I'll be sending them out for repair/rebuild/revalving when the car is down for the freshly rebuilt tranny, whenever I can get around to that.

And it is a DVDT intercooler setup. I'm sure with a few more changes it will be fine for track days. For the other 75% of the cars life I'm very happy with it.
 
I used to run the R4-E and now run Hawk pads. I was happy with the Porterfields but they tended to overheat and break up. The Hawks are terrible when cold, but once warmed up they stop a bit better than the Porterfields. The Hawks just seem better when (very) hot.

On that note I have two sets of used stock rotors and 35% to 50% R4-E pads that I was saving as spares. If anyone wants them I'll sell them very cheap. They would each be good for at least 1-2 track days yet.
 
Went to Thunderhill for my first ever HPDE session, and my instructor was
very impressed with the car, and my driving that by the end of the 2nd session he suggested we do a lead/follow on the 4th session.
So during my 4th session I followed him around the course for 2 laps, and then he turned me loose.
Car after car waved me by as I was turning laps.
It was over way to fast it seemed, but my instructor came up to me right after and said
that he had a hard time catching me because of all the traffic I was going thru.
He said I passed 12 cars.
My instructor then handed me my log book and promoted me to HPDE 2 on the spot.

So, the car ran great.
Did the same sheetmetal set-up as in this thread, and it turned out great.
I set my Coolant CEL to light up at 216*.
It came on a handful of times on my last session which was at 3:30 on a 92* day.
It came on when I followed someone, but once I was around them, it was off.

Earlier my instructor took me out in his 250whp Cooper S, fuggin little go-cart...
We ran a combined session with HPDE 4 and TT.
Let me tell you something about those TT guys, (Holy Shit) these guys are mad men!
Passing 2 wide around turns, getting out in the marbles and maintaining a slight drift while passing...
500whp Z06's playing peek-a-boo in the mirrors and then blasting right by us as if we were standing still.
It was absolutely fugging amazing to be apart of the Road Racing world for the day.
I ended up finding a group of local SRT-4 buddies of mine so we hungout in the pits.
My DSM buddies all flaked, which pissed me off, but oh well, so now I'll be one step ahead of them, and they'll never catch up.
Sorry for rambling on, but I wanted to update all of you since the OP replied enthusiastically to my first post.

The Porterfield R4-E's worked great for me, but I'm still hella green, so I can't really say for sure.
I know eventually I'll either, A) swap to JDM Knuckles up front and do the complete Evo
Swap, which will allow me to upgrade to Evo Big Brake Kits in the future, or B) do the full TCE Big Brake Upgrade and don't look back.
Oh, and one thing for sure, I need way better tires.
I bought a set of Evo IX rims/tires with about 75% tread left and figured I would shred
them pretty badly, but they held up great.
When they got hot, I could literally feel the tread blocks squirming as I was cornering...

I had one helluva time, and I can't wait until August for Thunderhill CCW, the normal way.
Infineon in June is already sold out :notgood:.

Anyway, this will give me more time to dial the car in better for August.
Oh, and the stock Rad Ducting is only $60 from the dealer, so I'll probably go with that for ducting since I have all of the core support and hood latch hardware.
Thanks for the space guys.
 
I do on my wife's camera, but it looks just like the one I think you posted earlier...
Yeah man, I'm fully addicted and I'm looking for a nice DD so I can transform my GSX into a dedicated Track Warrior.... :rocks:

edit
***TSiboosted posted the pics of the ducting Tsunari did a while back***
***It would be better if it were completely ducting with an angled top and sealed to the A/C.***
***I plan on buying the stock rad ducting and modifying it to fit my FMIC...***
 
Great job Chris...Glad to see more DSMers are getting out and trying their hands and cars on the road courses. Keep it up guys :thumb:

I will be at Road Atlanta in August if anyone wants to join us...
 
Eddie, that is the 7-9th, correct? This way I can mark it off in my calendar as well as see if my brother can come down.

Brian - Actually, the date has been moved to August 15 - 16. Not sure why, just got the E-Mial the other day. Kewl if you could make it too. Would be good to have some other DSMers around the track with the rest of the Porsche guys :D
 
Great to hear about your first track day!

This seems to be the best place for DSM road course drivers to discuss stuff, so I'm glad you chimed in.

I agree with you on the DE4 drivers. My first DE event I rode with a buddy in DE4 and I was hooked. I'm half amazed that I've made it to DE3 already, and look forward to DE4 eventually...
 
Brian - Actually, the date has been moved to August 15 - 16. Not sure why, just got the E-Mial the other day. Kewl if you could make it too. Would be good to have some other DSMers around the track with the rest of the Porsche guys :D

Good to note. I wish I could bring my car down here as Road Atlanta looks like a fun track to race on!!
 
A link to pics from Thunderhill HPDE event.
LeMons - Reno-Fernley
Don't know why it says Reno Fernley, but it was Thunderhill backwards.
http://www.nasanorcal.com/trackmaps/NASA_Thunderhill3040.jpg
It was a really fun track, and I can't wait to go back in August to run in CCW.
And no that Civic wasn't passing me.
That Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited was pretty fast, but couldn't hang in the corner of course.
Man, I need to do something about that body roll I've got going on.
I have RMDSM sways, Tein Flex CO's, Poly Bushings throughtout.
Maybe need stiffer springs...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top