Spoolin4Ever
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,142
- 14
- Apr 24, 2005
-
Moses Lake,
Washington
How do you change a valve? I think I have one or more burnt valves. Last time I took it to a machine shop, but I'd be interested in knowing if I can do it myself?
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Your better off just replacing them all and calling it a day if you have the funds. Your gonna have to take the head completely off and buy your self a valve spring compressor. To ensure that the new valve is gonna seat you can take it to a machine shop and have them do a valve angle job. Also I would change the valve guides while you already have the head off. Your gonna need a new head gasket. Also dont quote me but im pretty sure you can reuse the head bolts from a 6 bolt if they are in good condition.
Yes I have done a recent timing belt job (and a valve at the same time). I think what happened is I did not tighten the tensioner bolt enough. Looks like I skipped timing and I have a burnt valve on cylinder 2.
The compression test says: 180-0-60-90.
I thought I would re-time it first, just in case I got lucky. Most people were saying it's probably got a bent valve on cylinder number 2.
So I will re-use the timing components, the are only 20K miles on them. I'm pretty sure I did everything else ok but just didn't torque the tensioner pulley bolt enough and it loosened over the 20k miles.
With cylinder 2 at top dead center on the compression stroke do a cylinder leak down test and listen through the exhaust and the throttle body and see if you can hear and of the air rushing out from either. Did you notice a loss of power all of a sudden, or did it come over time getting slower and slower??
Yes I have done a recent timing belt job (and a valve at the same time). I think what happened is I did not tighten the tensioner bolt enough. Looks like I skipped timing and I have a burnt valve on cylinder 2.
The compression test says: 180-0-60-90.
I thought I would re-time it first, just in case I got lucky. Most people were saying it's probably got a bent valve on cylinder number 2.
So I will re-use the timing components, the are only 20K miles on them. I'm pretty sure I did everything else ok but just didn't torque the tensioner pulley bolt enough and it loosened over the 20k miles.
IF you have the head off is a good oportunity to replace those old piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear and front seals also. so you dont have to deal with all this mess later i forgot to mention , dont forget to hone the cylinders...
Well I was noticing it wasn't very fast, kinda slow but still ran ok. Then I went and seafoamed it, and it made no difference. I went to the gas station, put gas in and reset the ECU via battery. I got on it kinda hard, it was still slower than usual.
The next day on the way to work during the commute, it became even slower and that's basically when it started running on 3 cylinders. I drove it a couple days thinking it was a fuel injector but then did a compression test and got those results, and parked it.
So to me it looks like it was gradually coming out of time, maybe a tooth off before and then on the way to work slipped even further is what I think happened. So far everyone is saying that with zero compression on that cylinder, it has to be either a valve or a piston.
Should I re-time it before the leak down test?
IF you have the head off is a good oportunity to replace those old piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear and front seals also. so you dont have to deal with all this mess later i forgot to mention , dont forget to hone the cylinders...