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How to change a valve?

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Your better off just replacing them all and calling it a day if you have the funds. Your gonna have to take the head completely off and buy your self a valve spring compressor. To ensure that the new valve is gonna seat you can take it to a machine shop and have them do a valve angle job. Also I would change the valve guides while you already have the head off. Your gonna need a new head gasket. Also dont quote me but im pretty sure you can reuse the head bolts from a 6 bolt if they are in good condition.
 
Your better off just replacing them all and calling it a day if you have the funds. Your gonna have to take the head completely off and buy your self a valve spring compressor. To ensure that the new valve is gonna seat you can take it to a machine shop and have them do a valve angle job. Also I would change the valve guides while you already have the head off. Your gonna need a new head gasket. Also dont quote me but im pretty sure you can reuse the head bolts from a 6 bolt if they are in good condition.

Alright that all sounds like good advice.

So I still save some money by pulling the springs and valves out myself even though I pay the machine shop to do the valve angle job? And then I put the new stuff in myself and it saves some money too?
 
I have that one too. I like the one in the vid much better.
 
Yes I have done a recent timing belt job (and a valve at the same time). I think what happened is I did not tighten the tensioner bolt enough. Looks like I skipped timing and I have a burnt valve on cylinder 2.

The compression test says: 180-0-60-90.

I thought I would re-time it first, just in case I got lucky. Most people were saying it's probably got a bent valve on cylinder number 2.

So I will re-use the timing components, the are only 20K miles on them. I'm pretty sure I did everything else ok but just didn't torque the tensioner pulley bolt enough and it loosened over the 20k miles.
 
Yes I have done a recent timing belt job (and a valve at the same time). I think what happened is I did not tighten the tensioner bolt enough. Looks like I skipped timing and I have a burnt valve on cylinder 2.

The compression test says: 180-0-60-90.

I thought I would re-time it first, just in case I got lucky. Most people were saying it's probably got a bent valve on cylinder number 2.

So I will re-use the timing components, the are only 20K miles on them. I'm pretty sure I did everything else ok but just didn't torque the tensioner pulley bolt enough and it loosened over the 20k miles.

With cylinder 2 at top dead center on the compression stroke do a cylinder leak down test and listen through the exhaust and the throttle body and see if you can hear and of the air rushing out from either. Did you notice a loss of power all of a sudden, or did it come over time getting slower and slower??
 
With cylinder 2 at top dead center on the compression stroke do a cylinder leak down test and listen through the exhaust and the throttle body and see if you can hear and of the air rushing out from either. Did you notice a loss of power all of a sudden, or did it come over time getting slower and slower??

Well I was noticing it wasn't very fast, kinda slow but still ran ok. Then I went and seafoamed it, and it made no difference. I went to the gas station, put gas in and reset the ECU via battery. I got on it kinda hard, it was still slower than usual.

The next day on the way to work during the commute, it became even slower and that's basically when it started running on 3 cylinders. I drove it a couple days thinking it was a fuel injector but then did a compression test and got those results, and parked it.

So to me it looks like it was gradually coming out of time, maybe a tooth off before and then on the way to work slipped even further is what I think happened. So far everyone is saying that with zero compression on that cylinder, it has to be either a valve or a piston.

Should I re-time it before the leak down test?
 
Yes I have done a recent timing belt job (and a valve at the same time). I think what happened is I did not tighten the tensioner bolt enough. Looks like I skipped timing and I have a burnt valve on cylinder 2.

The compression test says: 180-0-60-90.

I thought I would re-time it first, just in case I got lucky. Most people were saying it's probably got a bent valve on cylinder number 2.

So I will re-use the timing components, the are only 20K miles on them. I'm pretty sure I did everything else ok but just didn't torque the tensioner pulley bolt enough and it loosened over the 20k miles.

IF you have the head off is a good oportunity to replace those old piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear and front seals also. so you dont have to deal with all this mess later i forgot to mention , dont forget to hone the cylinders...
 
IF you have the head off is a good oportunity to replace those old piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear and front seals also. so you dont have to deal with all this mess later i forgot to mention , dont forget to hone the cylinders...

The head is not off yet; and this has been rebuilt before so I'm just looking at what is the min. I need to do. I might even just do the valves that are bent and slap it back on with new HG, and some new turbo to manifold bolts and those copper washers for manifold to the head. Everything else is pretty new. Although when it was rebuilt before, I don't know to what extent they went. But I don't have the resources to get into the bottom end this time around I don't think.

I'm gonna retime it first and compression test it. If that cylinder is still bad, I pull the head and replace the burnt valves. Actually I probably will do all the valves.
 
Well I was noticing it wasn't very fast, kinda slow but still ran ok. Then I went and seafoamed it, and it made no difference. I went to the gas station, put gas in and reset the ECU via battery. I got on it kinda hard, it was still slower than usual.

The next day on the way to work during the commute, it became even slower and that's basically when it started running on 3 cylinders. I drove it a couple days thinking it was a fuel injector but then did a compression test and got those results, and parked it.

So to me it looks like it was gradually coming out of time, maybe a tooth off before and then on the way to work slipped even further is what I think happened. So far everyone is saying that with zero compression on that cylinder, it has to be either a valve or a piston.

Should I re-time it before the leak down test?

You dont have to "retime it". Just check the timing and make sure it hasnt sliped. If it hasnt then you gotta dig deeper into the engine to find whats causing you problem. Like you said most likely is a valve that needs to be replaced. Try to do them all if you can afford it. Also search on here for gasket matching you intake runners. This take time with a diegrinder but will pick u up a few free ponies. :thumb:
 
IF you have the head off is a good oportunity to replace those old piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, rear and front seals also. so you dont have to deal with all this mess later i forgot to mention , dont forget to hone the cylinders...

This really doesnt have much to do with having the head off. He would be better off pulling the engine if he wanted to freshen it up this much.
 
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