Help with head issues

[TurboLaserRS]

I hate making a ton of threads about nearly the same thing but I need some help. Essentially I am following the directions for reassambly of the cylinder head. Put the lash adjusters in, put the rockers on, and then installed the cam at the 12 o clock position. Thing is, it won't turn freely. I bled the lash adjusters as recommended in another thread and this thing is rock solid. Did I do something wrong or did I buy a defective head? Help please, I'm getting frustrated.

 

[WES_393]

Is the head on the engine? If so, it's possible the valves are hitting the pistons. If not, try bleeding the adjusters again.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Yeah the head is in my house. The weird thing is the haynes manual doesn't even mention bleeding the adjusters at all. Ill try it again but I did each one for about a full minute.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Yeah. It didn't work. Something is still binding.

 

[ilco187]

How does the cam turn without the rockers? if it turns hard then im suspecting cam tower warpage.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

It glides like butter. Nice and smooth. Anything else I should check? I just installed the intake cam and its the same.

 

[WES_393]

Do the valves sit open at all with the rockers and lifters installed? Pour some water in the ports and see if it leaks past the valves.

Also, might seem like a dumb question, but are you able to collapse the lifters by hand after bleeding?

 

[TurboLaserRS]

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With just therockers and lifters in? No, but with the cam snugged down I think two valves are just barely open a little. There is just barely enough play for me to turn it a little and it closes there and starts opening valves elsewhere.
Edit: Yes I can collapse them by hand but some are harder than others. Does not seem to change no matter how much I bleed them though.

 

[WES_393]

They should definitely close completely until the cam lobe is hitting the rockers. Try the water trick I mentioned with the cam lobes for those valves pointing straight up. If some of the valves leak with the cams in, it's most likely a problem with the lifters or valve stem ends. If they leak with no cams installed, it could be a bent valve or bad valve seat.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Ok I will try that. I noticed that some of the lash adjusters I can completely bottom out with my hands and some I can't. I keep trying to bleed those but nothings coming out and as soon as I take the paperclip out the resistance comes back. If this thing doesn't leak I might just buy new lash adjusters.

 

[1983gsp]

How are you trying to turn the cam? There should be a lot of resistance tapering off to no resistance then a knuckle busting jerk of the wrench out of your hand. That's the camlobes compressing the valve spring then releasing the valve spring. Sounds normal to me.

Is the head installed on the block? If it is make sure the engine is 30-40°btdc. That allows the valves to open without hitting the pistons if you are just spinning the cams without the timing belt installed. Good luck.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Thanks I got that figured out. Hopefully it doesn't blow up.

 

[1gslotsi]

what did you find in this situation

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Well as it turns out, I have always worked on overhead valve motors. I've never had to time any of them before. I don't know why but for some reason I thought I could turn the cams by hand. So what I thought was a problem, was actually normal. The only thing I notice is that when the timing marks are lined up, a couple valves are just barely open. I believe that is normal. I don't *think* there is any possible cam orientation where all valves are closed.
Please do correct me if I am wrong on that though.

 

[TurboLaserRS]

Sorry I'm just full of questions lately but I need a little reassurance. I dropped the head back on last night. I had turned the crank so all of the pistons were at the same place. I think that is mid stroke. The cam gear etch marks are pointing toward eachother, maybe a tooth off or so. Should I take the head back off and return it to tdc or will this be ok? I know you can find tdc either way but I don't want to make any extra work for myself and I also don't want to replace any valves because I did something stupid.

 

[BogusSVO]

If it is at mid stoke in the block, all 4 pistons about half way down, you can move the cams as needed so you will not have any piston to valve contact.

Line the cam gears in place, and use the tool or one of the other well used methods on the fourm to lock the cam gears inplace.

Then gently roll the crank untill the crank marks line up.