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Help with cam timing

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
I can get all the other marks to line up and STAY lined up after the belt is tensioned accept the cam sprockets. I line up the camshaft and place the cam gear jamming tool to hold them in place while the belt is installed, and I keep noticing them go out of place when I check the timing.

Can someone look at my cams and tell me which way I need to move them? I'm pretty sure I need to redo the timing again :(
I keep reading that the marks need to be comepletley flat and checked with a strait edge, and lined up with the heads surface but I can't get them lined up right without being a half tooth off.

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No, that has nothing to do with it. You need to work from the exhaust cam, over the intake cam, down over the idler, around the secondary sprocket, around the crank, and once you complete this you should be able to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley. You are a full tooth off on the crank now.

With the cam locker in place and the belt on, regardless of when you install the tensioner, everything will stay in line. This can be a little tricky the first time, but soon you'll be able to do a full timing job in 10 minutes minus the time it takes to remove the covers and let it sit for 15 minutes.

Pull the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the crank. Rotate the crank back until it's in line, and slide the belt over the crank. The teeth might not match perfect, might be off 1mm or so, but you can get it on there. Use a breaker bar to hold the crank in place. Don't let the balance shaft sprocket to your right slip out of time either. And remember, as long as there is tension on the belt and the cams are locked, you don't have to worry about the top side any longer. ;) You're almost there.
 
I tried using one of those special tools when doing a timing belt and it is ok but i figured out the best way to get it done the FIRST time right is without the special tool. Wrap the timing belt around both cams and zip tie it in there, count your teeth to make sure it's where it needs to be. After that the trick is to get it as tight as you possibly can around all other gears and pulleys. Same thing goes for the tensioner pulley, get it as tight as you can (you will adjust proper tension later). Then rotate it backwards and forward and everything should line up the first time. Hope this helps :)
 
After getting the belt clamped to the cam gears with them lined up i then to around the idler and to the crank. When putting the belt on the crank i will turn the crank counter clockwise about half a tooth than put the belt around it. From there you can turn the crank clockwise back to the mark and it will take out all the slack on the idler side of the belt. Now you can put the belt around the tensioner pulley and adjust the tension.
 
After getting the belt clamped to the cam gears with them lined up i then to around the idler and to the crank. When putting the belt on the crank i will turn the crank counter clockwise about half a tooth than put the belt around it. From there you can turn the crank clockwise back to the mark and it will take out all the slack on the idler side of the belt. Now you can put the belt around the tensioner pulley and adjust the tension.

Exactly. :thumb: I forgot to mention that as you pull the belt over the tensioner pulley, it will put a little rotational force on the entire assembly. As the crank is the closest, it will give it freedom to turn that half too, fall into place, and allow slippage to slide over the pulley.

Good info there.
 
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