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2G help please. Kind of a noob, multiple probblems

Posted by Boostedtsi0521, Mar 2, 2020

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  1. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Hey guys/gals
    Quick hiatory i i be a memebrr since 2003 under another username but i got out the game in 2009 and just got back in with new username.
    So here goes first problem which i kinda know the solution but just wanted feedback. I installed a b16g turbo and a evo8 fmic . I also have a 3 inch turbo back with stock o2 housing. I just got it running literally yesterday and I have nasty boost creep shoots up to about 25 lb. I routed the wastegate vacuum line to the blow off valve and got it to hold at 20 with the boost creep but getting some type of fuel cut. I'm pretty sure it's I need an upgraded fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and that should solve that but what do you guys think?
    Now for the bigger problem I'm having clutch disengagement issues basically if I press the clutch all the way to the floor it grinds but if I let off about a quarter inch it's fine but as I'm driving the gear don't want to go in. I changed a new master and a new slave and got all the arrow but when I first start the car I can get it into gear ( 1st gear pops out 3x before it grabs) but as I was driving and testing it just trying to downshift or go into another gear it grinds it's almost like it's still has air but I know it doesn't.
    Will be adjusting the clutch rod as I've been doing a lot of research and change the oil before I drop the tranny what you guys think?
     

    231  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  2. Kryndon

    Kryndon Proven Member

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    The Evo/Big 16G simply creeps like a mofo, it's a fact. Your 3" turboback system isn't helping the creep at all, either. You'd be able to decrease the spontaneity of the creep by running the stock 2.25" downpipe and system, but it will still creep past 15 psi. You can also port the wastegate opening and the hot side itself, but from personal experience that also doesn't stop creep entirely. The surefire way to control it is to run an external wastegate, but that requires either custom manifolds or O2 housings.

    Simply running bigger pumps and injectors wont make it creep less. It will allow you to "utilize" a bit more than stock boost, but you'll still hit fuel cut. Getting some way of tweaking the fuel maps and getting a tune would be good to make it a bit safer when it starts creeping past 15 psi.

    Also don't connect the wastegate actuator to the BOV. The BOV nipple needs to be connected only to the intake manifold nipple (right next to the MDP sensor) for best response and operation. The wastegate actuator should be either connected to the turbo compressor housing (or Jpipe if yours has a nipple), or run it to a boost controller with a T fitting like the factory diagram shows.
     

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  3. DSMPT

    DSMPT Proven Member

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    What injectors and tuning method are you running? And you should do first things first before do guess works. Do a boost leak test and fix all boost/exhaust leaks and mechanical issues first (including to check if the wastegate/fuel regulator properly working and if the exhaust manifold/turbine housing/O2 housing have some crack physically). And take the pressure source of wastegate actuator from the J-pipe or somewhere closer to the compressor housing. then if it wouldn't solve the boost creep-ish/fuel cut-ish issues then go to the next step.
    As for the clutch issue too, since you have new master/slave cylinder, make sure if the clutch adjustment, clutch fork position, shift cable adjustment, clutch pedal crack are ok first, before drop the transmission.
     

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  4. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys. I dont have a vacuum nippel on my compressor housing or j pipe so that kind of sucks.
     

    231  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  5. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    I have no injectors yet or a tuning method. Im in the process of getting a wideband for now.
    It just sucks i cant WOT LOL
     

    231  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  6. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

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    Like DSMPT said. First make sure you have no boost leaks and tap the J pipe or compressor to feed the wastegate, that will sol a lot, do no t split the source of the wastegate, otherwise it will not help at all with your boost creep issue.

    Concerning the clutch issue, take a pic of the clutch fork at the transmission opening, so we can see where exactly is located, it can be off alignment, Take a pic to see where it rests.
     

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  7. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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  8. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    Or drill/tap the compressor housing, thicker material and less prone to leaks.

    Or pay your local welder to TIG an NPT fitting on your j-pipe.

    Or buy a j-pipe with one already integrated.

    Many ways to skin a cat...
     

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  9. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Im on the way home now 2 make a new vacuum source and take the picture of the fork I'll repost in about an hour.
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  10. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    So heres the pic. From what ive searched seems like its getting pushed already. This is with the clutch pedal not engaged and i can push in the slave all the way.
     

    Attached Files:

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  11. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

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    Holly caw, If this pic is without pushing the clutch, then you are off spec on the clutch fork.

    the clutch fork has to be seating over half way of the opening towards the slave cylinder.,
    You are over halve way to the opposite way, it means you need to take off the transmission and shim the pivot ball to get it into spec.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2020

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  12. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

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    C0A0008C-CCD6-4F48-BF43-E5C602FE3C7D.png

    I found this pic so you can see how it supposed to be.

    tk106 can guide you better on the process of aligning the fork which he had the problem before.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2020

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  13. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Wow!!! Way off LOL. I might as well do the clutch.
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  14. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    What i dont get is if my fork is already pushed in why do i have to press al they way down to get gears going and if i over press they grind?
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  15. miguelmcv

    miguelmcv Supporting Member

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    No, it’s not how you think, is totally the opposite way.

    You have the clutch all the way out so even when you push the clutch it barely touch the clutch.
    So basically you have more travel to engage the clutch but not enough to fully engage.
    When the fork is placed on the right side (like the pic I provided) is almost touching the clutch plate, so when you push the clutch it engages right away.
     

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  16. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    If i presumably have no air in the system am i supposed to be able to push in the slave all the way?
     

    231  1

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  17. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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    When you push the slave in by hand, all you're doing is pushing fluid back into the master via relief port in the master, so it won't matter if you have air in the system or not. Unfortunately, you do have to shim the pivot ball. It can be done without pulling the trans but it's a little tricky. This is how I did it.

    Get the thinnest 12mm open wrench.
    Remove the slave and the dust cover.
    Push the fork to the right and from there you have to crack the pivot ball loose and back it out as much as you can. Enough room so you can slide a washer behind it.
    Then you have to cut a washer into a "C" shape. Looks like you'll need a couple.
    Put the washer on a magnet and try to guide it in. Angle of how you put the washer on the magnet is important and you don't want to drop it.
    While doing this, use a long flat screwdriver to push it onto the pivot ball.

    I will see if I still have the washer I used.
     

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  18. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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    10mm id washers cut this way

    F96A91B9-959A-47CC-BC24-0F6AA40837A3.jpeg

    And carefully guide it in at the right angle. You want the opening facing downwards so it doesn’t fall once you push it on with a flathead.

    403A7D6A-1D2B-41BA-BEEB-22F5C9A27B50.jpeg

    If it falls off, you can possibly fish it out by blindly using a magnet or you’ll have to pull the tcase depending on where it lands. Worst case, you’ll have to pull the trans.

    I’d go at least 4mm total thickness on washers in your case
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020

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  19. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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    @miguelmcv is correct. Think of the pivot ball and the fork as a seesaw. The higher the pivot ball the higher the travel and vice versa.
     

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  20. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Is this too many shims? Will i have any issues if i leave it like this?
     

    Attached Files:

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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  21. DSMPT

    DSMPT Proven Member

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    Too much... The fork would possibly contact the pressure plate, would damage both.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2020

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  22. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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    Can you move it to the left with your hand? If you can’t, it’s too many.
     

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  23. TK's9d2TSi

    TK's9d2TSi Supporting Member

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    This is where mine rests

    C003C5CE-5EE7-4590-B49A-B2342537A592.jpeg
     

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  24. Boostedtsi0521

    Boostedtsi0521 Probationary Member

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    Thanks fellas..got the tranny dropped and removed some washers so its perfect now.
    I will be putting it back tomorrow.
     

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    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
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