ECMlink Help Me Shave .2 off My ET

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Basic setup: 1g FWD, V3 Lite on SD, 14b @ 20 lbs, E85 and FIC 850 injectors. My profile is up to date on all mods.

My goal is to break into the 13's on street tires and the 14b. I am close, just looking for a little bit more to help me achieve my goal.

I have done all the tuning myself with thanks to Corey (Gofer) and a few other users on this site and over on ECMTuning. It has never been on a dyno. I went to the track back in May and ran a personal best of 14.1 @ 113 with a 2.4 60'. Here is the log:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I went back to the track for the first time since then on Friday. I had added a Quaife LSD, Fuel Lab filter, and Tial 50mm BOV. I made a few adjustments to my VE ratio and kept noticing that my VE table was inflating a lot. I have since learned that apparently the E85 in my area changed recently so I'm planning on loading my old VE table and just reworking the globals. Anyway, I ran a best of 14.2 @ 111 with a 2.3 60'. Here is the log from Friday:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I am going to keep working with my launch and try to get used to the LSD (as it feels completely different then before) and I'm going to try to figure out how to get my 14b to hold my boost. That is not really the purpose of this thread (although I am open to any suggestions you may have). My question is, what can I change within ecmlink to maximize my power?

Also I tried the NLTS for the first time ever on Friday on my 3rd-4th shift and LOVE it! I'm going to try to use it more, its just not normal for me so I have to consciously force myself to remember and do it.

 

[dsmornothing]

Have you done anything with weight reduction?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Have you done anything with weight reduction?

I have removed the A/C, cruise control, spare tire, jack, tool kit, and all sound deadening material behind the front seats. This is a street car and I will be keeping the full interior. The main point of this thread though is what I can change within ECMlink v3 to get just a little bit more out of her.

 

[compression]

You damn sure have the mph, I went 110 @ 12.3 obviously a better launch would be where its at. Could you run some race gas an advance the timing? Or work with the integrated boost control to help with traction off the line.

Edit: saw e85 cancel racegas. On phone can't pull up the log.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

You damn sure have the mph, I went 110 @ 12.3 obviously a better launch would be where its at. Could you run some race gas an advance the timing? Or work with the integrated boost control to help with traction off the line.

I agree that I'm severely lacking in the traction department. I was hoping that the LSD would help more. I think that it will but I need more practice with it. However before going back to the track and just working on my launch, I want to make sure that everything else to up to par as well so I am working on this from several angles. Slicks would obviously help me the most but I really want to hit 13's on street tires before making the switch.

I'm already on E85 and the timing is pretty advanced. I am still new to the tuning game, if it can be advanced more safely, then I am willing to give it a try. I understand that the best way is to get it on a dyno but that isn't really a possibility at the moment.

As for ECMlink's boost by gear setup, it's only available on V3 Full and I currently have V3 Lite. I am considering it though, upgrading to the Full version and setting up boost by gear. For the time being I am just trying to regulate it with the throttle.

 

[compression]

I am not sure what v3 lite has to offer, but if it doesn't offer boost control you could get a stock bcs and wire it to the fps which you can control amazingly, have it close about the mph you would shift to second, its not making more power but its change within link that could greatly affect your launch.

If you see odd out of place words , its auto correct on my phone haha..

 

[bryzenga]

How's your traction? Any wheelhop? I see your stutter box is set at 3500. Maybe try going a little higher if you arent having too many traction issues. How are you launching it? Just dumping the clutch and going or slipping it? I've found that slipping it and staying out of 100% throttle is the best for getting off of the line without completely losing the tires.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

How's your traction? Any wheelhop? I see your stutter box is set at 3500. Maybe try going a little higher if you arent having too many traction issues. How are you launching it? Just dumping the clutch and going or slipping it? I've found that slipping it and staying out of 100% throttle is the best for getting off of the line without completely losing the tires.

My traction sucks. I didn't used to get wheel hop with the open diff, (just lots of spin) but I was getting wheel hop on Friday with the Quaife. I had it set to 4,000 initially, (also I think thats where it was set back in May with the open diff when I ran 14.1) but I lowered it to 3,500 and thats what got me the 2.3 60' (my best ever). The wheel hop was so bad with the Quaife that it was turning the wipers on and 1st and/or 2nd (if I didn't spin in 1st, but then spun in 2nd, it would still hop so much the wipers would turn on). Before with the open diff, the wipers never turned on.

As far as my technique, I push the gas enough to reach my rev limit and keep it there. When the light changes I slip it just enough to grab and try to maintain that partial throttle where its not spinning/hopping. I tried "pre-loading" for the first time ever on Friday and ended up red lighting. I need to work more on that if it will be beneficial.

 

[spooling 1g]

Better motor mounts/solid,was the best mod i ever did to my gst.i had a couple 2.0 60fts after i did f/r solid mounts.

 

[DJ23GSX]

I don't think your tune is bad at all. You can maybe try adding a degree or two of timing in the area's that your not knocking. Its the seat time thats gonna really bring those times down. Keep working on your launching and and once you get those 60 footers down you'll be in the 13's no problem. In my last awd dsm I was cutting consistent 1.9 60' times and running 13.4 at only 101mph all day long. I had a modded fwd 14b powered dsm about 11 years ago and went to the track twice with it and both times I was disgusted with it . Fwd was def frustrating for me. My best with that car was a 14.4@100mph with a 2.4 60 footer at 19psi. The hardest part for me was forcing myself not to go wot in 1st or 2nd gear. Ideally I wanted to try 1/2 throttle through 1st gear 3/4 throttle through most of 2nd gear then wide open through 3rd and 4th but once that light turns green I lost all my concentration . You have a lot more mods on your car than I did on my fwd so I'm sure wheel spin is probly worse for you unless you got some nice tires on there.

If I'm not mistaken you can run pretty aggressive timing on e85 without knocking right?

Better motor mounts/solid,was the best mod i ever did to my gst.i had a couple 2.0 60fts after i did f/r solid mounts.

I was told this many years ago about my fwd as well but being my daily driver I didn't want it to turn into a rattle box with the solid/poly mounts. Most people say you get used it after a while but I've driven a few dsm's with no balance shafts and poly motor mounts and its something that I just couldn't live with.

 

[compression]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...w-make-switch-street-race-boost-high-low.html

Do something similar to this , just instead of a switch have ecmlink control it via fps or egr. ( if lite has the option ) I'm willing to be money your 60's will improve all you need is 1/10 off and your there.

 

[bryzenga]

Best thing I ever did to get rid of wheelhop was to go with full coil-overs and wider rims/tires, and all poly mounts. But thats not exactly cheap... This year was my first year at the 1/4 with a non-stock setup and managed a 13.4 with a 2.3 60ft. I deff need more seat time, but this was the first time I didn't have wheelhop. Just be careful with the hop, I destroyed my original tranny when one of the spider gears in the diff broke and punched a softball sized hole through the case... Not a fun day.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Better motor mounts/solid,was the best mod i ever did to my gst.i had a couple 2.0 60fts after i did f/r solid mounts.

I currently have Prothane mounts all around along with Energy Suspension control arm bushings. How does it feel with metal front and rears? I also have my balance shafts removed.

I don't think your tune is bad at all. You can maybe try adding a degree or two of timing in the area's that your not knocking. Its the seat time thats gonna really bring those times down. Keep working on your launching and and once you get those 60 footers down you'll be in the 13's no problem. In my last awd dsm I was cutting consistent 1.9 60' times and running 13.4 at only 101mph all day long. I had a modded fwd 14b powered dsm about 11 years ago and went to the track twice with it and both times I was disgusted with it . Fwd was def frustrating for me. My best with that car was a 14.4@100mph with a 2.4 60 footer at 19psi. The hardest part for me was forcing myself not to go wot in 1st or 2nd gear. Ideally I wanted to try 1/2 throttle through 1st gear 3/4 throttle through most of 2nd gear then wide open through 3rd and 4th but once that light turns green I lost all my concentration . You have a lot more mods on your car than I did on my fwd so I'm sure wheel spin is probly worse for you unless you got some nice tires on there.

If I'm not mistaken you can run pretty aggressive timing on e85 without knocking right?

My timing is pretty aggressive already, at least compared to stock. I don't have enough experience with tuning yet to know if I should/could safely run more. If I hear from others that have ran more safely I will surly add more.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...w-make-switch-street-race-boost-high-low.html

Do something similar to this , just instead of a switch have ecmlink control it via fps or egr. ( if lite has the option ) I'm willing to be money your 60's will improve all you need is 1/10 off and your there.

Thanks for the link. I don't think that I can control the solenoids with Lite and mine are removed anyways. If its worth it I will upgrade to Full and get the BBG package. I always planned to upgrade down the road anyway. Its $125 to upgrade to Full and $39 for their boost control solenoid.

 

[schroder]

Solid Motor Mounts, Boost by gear, and something in the rear to help rake your car and stiffen it up. not sure if V3 lite does boost by gear, but you can go to autozone/advance auto and they have spring spacers. They are basically polyurethane parts that slide inbetween the coils on your springs in order to "lift" the car and stiffen the suspension. Its worked for some NA guys on other forums, and they are cheap. Biggest thing traction...thats done by the three things I mentioned earlier

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Best thing I ever did to get rid of wheelhop was to go with full coil-overs and wider rims/tires, and all poly mounts. But thats not exactly cheap... This year was my first year at the 1/4 with a non-stock setup and managed a 13.4 with a 2.3 60ft. I deff need more seat time, but this was the first time I didn't have wheelhop. Just be careful with the hop, I destroyed my original tranny when one of the spider gears in the diff broke and punched a softball sized hole through the case... Not a fun day.

I already had Prothane motor mounts and Energy Suspension control arm bushings and used to get zero wheel hop, regardless of the amount of spin. This was my first time at the track with the Quaife and BAM, wheel hop. The good news is I shouldn't have to worry about my diff breaking. I also have KYB AGX/Eibach Pro suspension.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Solid Motor Mounts, Boost by gear, and something in the rear to help rake your car and stiffen it up. not sure if V3 lite does boost by gear, but you can go to autozone/advance auto and they have spring spacers. They are basically polyurethane parts that slide inbetween the coils on your springs in order to "lift" the car and stiffen the suspension. Its worked for some NA guys on other forums, and they are cheap. Biggest thing traction...thats done by the three things I mentioned earlier

I have the KYB AGX struts and I set them to 8 in the rear, which is full stiff. I bought some of those spacers before and tried to get them to go in the Eibach Pro springs but it wasn't happening. I've seen them used on stock springs but there is no way it was happening on the tighter Eibach springs.

I agree 100% that my biggest problem is my launch, and it needs the most improvement. But before I go back to the track I want to make sure that my tune is optimal as well. There is a good chance that V3 Full/BBG will be my next purchase, it is working its way to the top of my list. I'm also looking at a 7 cm hotside for my 14b, shimming the wastegate actuator, and porting my exhaust manifold to help me hold my boost better.

 

[compression]

You can be cheap and make a toggle switch next to your shifter, however in the heat of the moment its just one more thing you'll have to do and will take concentration off your driving. I'm sure somebody would sell/give you a stock bcs!

I know we are all giving suggestions on your launch when you clearly stated you knew the issues, and were asking help on tune mainly, so to address your tune I don't think there's much you could really do to it besides advance your timing a little bit. At 111mph on the 14b I think your tune is great and without nitrous or cams and what not I'm not sure what more could be harvested from your current setup ( obviously there's always a tad more ). All IMO of course.

 

[DJ23GSX]

My timing is pretty aggressive already, at least compared to stock. I don't have enough experience with tuning yet to know if I should/could safely run more. If I hear from others that have ran more safely I will surly add more.

You don't know aggressive timing like a stock 1g turbo map . With my current 14b awd talon I was seeing around 24* of timing at 20psi of boost with zero knock on the stock timing maps. Now with a keydiver eprom chip compensating for my injectors timing peaks out around 18* and pulls so much smoother than the stock chip. The great thing about link is you can adjust timing at each rpm so if you don't see knock and your a/f ratio's are good then you have room for more timing. From what I've gathered here on the forums is that 19-20* timing is where you will make optimum hp but every car is different.

Another thing I was debating on trying with my fwd was a dual stage boost controller. That might be an option for you if you can't figure out how to get link to control boost by gear.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

You can be cheap and make a toggle switch next to your shifter, however in the heat of the moment its just one more thing you'll have to do and will take concentration off your driving. I'm sure somebody would sell/give you a stock bcs!

I know we are all giving suggestions on your launch when you clearly stated you knew the issues, and were asking help on tune mainly, so to address your tune I don't think there's much you could really do to it besides advance your timing a little bit. At 111mph on the 14b I think your tune is great and without nitrous or cams and what not I'm not sure what more could be harvested from your current setup ( obviously there's always a tad more ). All IMO of course.

Haha, thats ok. I know I need help in the other areas too and it is painfully obvious with my MPH. How much can I advance the timing though? That is where my concern it. Do I just raise it in the cells used in the lower RPMs or do I raise it across the board? Is there a "safe" limit (if there even is such a thing as all setups are different)?

You don't know aggressive timing like a stock 1g turbo map . With my current 14b awd talon I was seeing around 24* of timing at 20psi of boost with zero knock on the stock timing maps. Now with a keydiver eprom chip compensating for my injectors timing peaks out around 18* and pulls so much smoother than the stock chip. The great thing about link is you can adjust timing at each rpm so if you don't see knock and your a/f ratio's are good then you have room for more timing. From what I've gathered here on the forums is that 19-20* timing is where you will make optimum hp but every car is different.

Another thing I was debating on trying with my fwd was a dual stage boost controller. That might be an option for you if you can't figure out how to get link to control boost by gear.

Good point. Mine tops out at 19 once it hits 7,000 RPM's although I shift before then. I primarily use 15-18* down the strip, I guess its not as aggressive as I was thinking. Does anyone have a good timing table they could post or PM me just so I could use it as an example?

 

[SBstar]

I can't look at your log on my phone while working but ill take a look when I get home. I wouldn't stretch peak timing past 19* honestly. After seeing Dave and Nate peaking at 18-19 and running mid 11's on e85 I don't think there is much to gain past there. That will be my setup once I get this thing back together. Boost by gear would definitely help you. From the sounds of things your spinning well past the 60 mark so its not just the initial launch suffering. I can send you a stock bcs if you want to try that. Pm me or send me a fb message with your addy.

 

[GDNF2ET]

Take out the headlight to get more air to the filter..Get rid of the Catalytic converter if its still on and get a non-restrictive muffler.. An underhood pic of the car might help us see what can be improved..

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I can't look at your log on my phone while working but ill take a look when I get home. I wouldn't stretch peak timing past 19* honestly. After seeing Dave and Nate peaking at 18-19 and running mid 11's on e85 I don't think there is much to gain past there. That will be my setup once I get this thing back together. Boost by gear would definitely help you. From the sounds of things your spinning well past the 60 mark so its not just the initial launch suffering. I can send you a stock bcs if you want to try that. Pm me or send me a fb message with your addy.

That's pretty much what I have seen too, which is why I set it up as I did. However the 19* timing cells are outside of the RPM band that I use during a pass, so I could probably adjust it a little more. That is very true, I appreciate it Shane! I'll let you know. I'm looking forward to hearing your thoughts on the log.

Take out the headlight to get more air to the filter..Get rid of the Catalytic converter if its still on and get a non-restrictive muffler.. An underhood pic of the car might help us see what can be improved..

My air filter is in the front bumper already in a sealed box and have I full 3" exhaust without a cat.

Here is a current underhood pic:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[banshee04]

Whats your base timing at?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Whats your base timing at?

The base mechanical timing is set right at 5* BTDC.

 

[sbeck]

Drag radials are street tires and should be a huge improvement for 60'. I have no plans on ever drag racing my eclipse but I do lots of 1/8th mile in my Camaro and tires make all the difference. I gained a full .5 in my 60' once I could get consistent traction at the launch.