Help me plan my build

[3kgt2nv]

So I finally decided on what turbo I was going to go with. Now i would like some help of the more experianced people to lay out a well balanced quick street car that will see occasional track time.

What im looking for is to use a hta68 16g running about 25ish psi. I only have 93 octane around here so most likely I will end up with meth injection as I do not have e85 as an option.

Most of my parts are in my bio but if you think anything should be changed let me know. Im not looking for a 10 second car im hoping for mid to low 11 sec and no specific awhp number.

This IS NOT my daily driver so i do not need to worry about that and as far as work goes i have a local shop that does f1 and alms racing team work so i have a knowledgeable machine shop.

I have built a dyno'ed 550 awhp Mitsubishi 3000gt but I have never done a four banger or a dsm before so looking for realistic help. If all your going to say is go with a bigger turbo or do this please state why.

 

[casuprock]

Nice turbo choice. I just put a 68HTA on my wrx. At 16psi it's already ridiculous and the turbo isn't even in it's peak efficiency range until after 17psi I'm not an authority on turbos, but the thing spools like the TD04 and is completely awesome.

For your build, consider a 2.3 stroker. You'll spool your turbo faster and the 68HTA can breathe to keep up with the added displacement. There's a thread on here about a FPT28 putting out 380 ft*lb... the 68HTA should do even better. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...er-affect-big-28-adversely.html#post152178974

For a car that sees street action and doesn't rev to the moon (greater than ~7.5k) a stroker is where it's at. I put together a stroker after kthackst suggested it would be fun... the thing growls and is described as "mean".

I bet with some basic weight removal and some kind of tune you'll be able to run 11's no problem, maybe high 10's. Depends on how you drive too you might do better.

At 25psi, you may or may not need meth depending on how good your intercooler is and how high the compression is in your build. You probably will need meth if it's hot outside, have an ebay FMIC, and run 9:1 compression. Run an EGT and you'll know if you're getting too hot and risk detonation. E85 is a pain if you drive the car anywhere where it's not available.

 

[3kgt2nv]

I have 9.1 wiesco pistons now in my 2.1 build but was thinking of doing a 2.3 with 8.1 or 8.5.1 compression.

For an fmic i was going to do the ets kit. the car is already stripped down as its a no frills car and i even pulled some unimportant stuff like power steering and abs also the wipers and the motors for them and im eliminating my pop ups in a unique way.

but with the build i am looking for what im going to need for fuel injectors, tuning im going to go v3 link, what else do i need. I dont want to miss something because i didnt know.

 

[casuprock]

Go big for fuel injectors, it's easier to dial down the duty cycle than max out or over rate smaller ones. I think the biggest you can go is 1600cc before you need to change the electronics to drive them. For ECU I'm using ceddymod and open ecu right now, but am considering an AEM ecu to work with my wideband because I'm upgrading the turbo to a holset. If you end up going meth... I would recommend the AEM ecu since it can interface with the AEM meth sprayer kit to make sure you don't boost if the meth kit has a malfunction or there's a clogged sprayer. I just got the AEM 1gal meth kit and it's high quality, but I have not used it yet.

 

[richard33]

Since you have DSMlink get the biggest injectors you can. 1000+ for sure. The worst thing is having to detune the car cause you're out of fuel.

 

[3kgt2nv]

would 1150 injectors be big enough or go up to like 1200 or 1400

 

[AZEclipse07]

Definitely get the biggest injectors if your going to go the ECMLink route. Your going to need a 255 fuel pump and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Your probably also going to need to ditch the 1G mass (if you still have it) for a MAFT blow through setup or even an Evo mass.

This might help. Good info from a previous thread...

Fuel Injectors FLow Calculator - Fuelinjectorclinic

 

[3kgt2nv]

have a 2g mass but was going to go 3' gm maf with the ecu wire

 

[richard33]

have a 2g mass but was going to go 3' gm maf with the ecu wire

Look into speed density. The gm maf clutters up the engine bay. Speed density is a better way to tune too. I had 1600s with my 16g but I was on e85. Im sure 1000s would be enough if you don't plan on getting a bigger turbo. If you find a good deal on 1200s or something scoop them up!

 

[casuprock]

Look into speed density. The gm maf clutters up the engine bay. Speed density is a better way to tune too. I had 1600s with my 16g but I was on e85. Im sure 1000s would be enough if you don't plan on getting a bigger turbo. If you find a good deal on 1200s or something scoop them up!

richard33 is right about the ease of speed density, but that is also a double edged sword... For example, if you change altitudes and the turbo efficiency changes, then you have to retune SD. Some factory systems that use SD are based on conservative assumptions... for tuning you want to be on the efficient frontier of the hardware, not rely on conservative fuel, boost, and timing to accommodate changes over time and altitude. Retaining the MAF allows closed loop adjustment. The MAF route is better for efficiency and although it is more work upfront and requires a MAF sensor, it is less hassle in the long run since the car has smarter control. Closed loop control is always better in an engineering sense, but I can't deny SD is a classic method and shouldn't be discounted as a viable option if you are strict about your engine's operating conditions.

LS1 MAF with a MAF translator isn't highly complex hardware either...

 

[3kgt2nv]

i had thought speed density but wasnt all sure how much is involved with v3 link and sd. I dont DD the car so there is no real concern with having variations for the speed density to have issues with