My GSX build plan, please give me pointers/criticism.

[AngelOfPassion]

Hi everyone, I have been planning a GSX build and have done many hours of research on this site. I think I have my build plan solid and would like some feedback on the mods and mod order that I have come up with.

If you see anything that has caused problems for you in the past or that you think is not good for the car let me know.

My goal is to have a part time track car that has about 300-350hp and not have any cooling problems.

Thank you for reading, here is my plan:

Step One:

Upper Intercooler Piping, BOV, Intake Pipe, and GM MAF

Blow thru upper intercooler pipe
GM 3.0" MAF
MAF translator
Greddy type RZ bov
No MAS intake pipe with PCV and charcoal connection

Step Two:

PCV Connection

Attach a fuel filter in the pcv line so no oil gets into cooling system.

Step Three:

Gauges and Boost Controller

Autometer Water Temp Gauge
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Manual boost controller

Step Four:

Exhaust

Apexi N1 cat back exhaust
Apexi N1 downpipe
Forced Performance DSM race manifold
DSM Evo III o2 housing

Step Five:

Lower Intercooler Piping and Turbo Upgrade

LIP for 16G turbo
MITSUBISHI TD05H "EVO III BIG" 16G


Step Six:

Upgraded SMIC or FMIC


Haven't decided on getting a Supra MKIV side mount or ETS 95-99 Eclipse 2G DSM 12" Ultra Race Super Short Route Intercooler Kit.

I don't know if i want to spend the money on that FMIC but i also don't know if the supra can handle cooling.

Step Seven:

Clutch and Flywheel

Fidanza 7bolt flywheel
Act 2600 clutch



And that's what I have so far... Let me know what you guys think! I have been reading about all the different ways of doing things for days.

 

[92AWDHX40]

A wideband, and a logger to go along with your maft set up.

 

[Dylan0123]

I have the FP race exhaust mani and I love it. They say it won't crack like the oem ones because of the better quality cast material, and i've seen cars that put out way more than the 300-350hp you're looking for using it.

I see you're in arizona, so if you're running your car hard you do want to make sure you take all kinds of precautions to keep your car cool. I'd suggest looking in the Road Course section and seeing what solutions other members have come up with. If you get a big front mount intercooler it can block flow to your radiator so you want to watch out for that. Try making some ducts to funnel air to important areas like the brakes and maybe the side mount if you're going to keep that. Also make sure you get some kind of functional hood vent or scoop. Run as much water as possible in your cooling system, and try using Redline Water Wetter or other additives to keep temps down. Make sure you have a good cooling fan setup with quality fans like Mishimoto or Spal, not eBay knockoffs (unless those knockoffs actually work for you, I'll let you experiment, I don't have experience with them). Use heat wrap on your exhaust mani or get a quality thermal coating on it, maybe get a blanket for the turbo or fab up some heat shields to contain the heat and not let it spread to the rest of the engine bay. You might also want to look into getting a good cold air intake setup.

What kind of "track" are you thinking about? Like a road course, or a drag strip?

Check out the "upgrade paths" in the "tech" tab at the top left of the page.

Here's a basic rundown of the upgrade path ( I did this off the top of my head, might have switched some things around. The order you do these upgrades in is up to you):

intake & filter
boost gauge
bov
mbc
exhaust mani
exhaust w/ wideband o2 bung
o2 sensor housing
dsmlink v3
wideband O2 sensor
warning gauges: egt (high temp = lean condition), water temp, oil pressure
fmic and pipes w/ t-bolt clamps and good quality couplers
stainless fuel feed lines
fuel pump
fuel injectors
adjustable fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge
turbo
clutch

Make sure you know what your goal is before you even start so you save a lot of time and money down the line.

Think about things ahead of time and set up a plan on what you're going to do and in what order your going to do them in.

For example, if you're getting a new exhaust, you might as well go with 3'' instead of 2.5'' and later needing something bigger. Or if you have the exhaust off go ahead and put in a wideband O2 sensor bung, even if you have to plug it temporarily until you get a wideband setup. Or if you have the turbo off, might as well port your o2 sensor housing or swap your exhaust mani while you're at it. Buy a boost gauge that has the max amount of boost you think you'll ever need, instead of getting a 0-20 psi one and needing one that goes to 25 psi later. If you go with DSMlink, get the biggest fuel injectors you'll need for your end goal instead of buying a set of smaller ones and having to sell them and lose money. Also, get your tuning stuff set up early so that you can learn to use it as you go instead of risking running without a good tune and ruining your motor. Also it'd be fun to know how much power each new bolt-on nets you.



Check out this article about the pcv system:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/366890-4g63t-pcv-system.html

Here's some nice oil catch cans: http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/freelancer-products-services-10/filtered-catch-cans-24769/

Do some research on this fmic, see if it fits what you like. I've heard people say it's a good set up , especially for the price: http://vr-speed.com/store/vrsf-fmic-front-mount-intercooler-9599-eclipse-talon-turbo-p-348.html

 

[JayB12]

Get a Punishment or VRSF intercooler (inexpencive, serves purpose, covers a few steps listed), I would probably run a 1g bov, I didn't like my old greddy one because it leaked badly and this is cheap. And get some 550+ injectors (AFPR and Fuel pump as well) and a logger and run them with the translator, and swap the water temp gauge for an LC1 or Uego wideband, unless your having issues with stock temp gauge. You may also want to get a set or ARP headstuds put in. Also if you have E-85 local, I would look into that, it would make your goals a lot easier.

Just my opinion.

EDIT: I also agree on getting link (or doing ceddymod) early because if you stick with it, you will most likely upgrade to this. Like I am now.

On another note surf the classifieds on here, lots of good parts for cheap.

 

[92AWDHX40]

With a logger or link you could monitor temps, but a wideband is a no brainer with any set up to help you.

 

[Frskrgps]

if you get link you can run speed density and ditch the maf

 

[92AWDHX40]

Yes with link sd, a great set up, im ditching my maft for various reasons. But youll really like link if you get it, lots of cool features.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I have definitely been looking into DSMlink, i just don't really know how to use logging software. But I know i will have to learn because tuning these cars is really important.

Maybe I will get a 3 pillar gauge pod so I can fit the A/F ratio in there.

Thanks for the input guys

 

[T is for TURBO]

Step 1: Maintenance

 

[DWR-DSM]

You could find some 560cc evo injectors laying around. Thats a cheap upgrade. I would get the VRSF intercooler and skip all that hard intercooler piping with a 1g bov. Hallman pro boost controller, boost gauge a must, megan o2 housing, megan down pipe, and an exhaust of your choosing. FP manifold or evo3 manifold, I went with the evo3 so I could use a nice polished heatshield and the evo3 manifold is cheaper. I believe a walbro 190 would be fine, so you dont have to spend extra $$$ on a FPR. K&N filter with FP intake n reducer coupler. I would rather use a ACT flywheel than the Fidanza and the 2600is good. I find it useless to invest in a GM Maf when the stock 2g maf would do just fine. AEM wideband and if possible Ecmlink Maintenance is important also and should already be done or in the process while installing mods.

I have definitely been looking into DSMlink, i just don't really know how to use logging software. But I know i will have to learn because tuning these cars is really important.

Maybe I will get a 3 pillar gauge pod so I can fit the A/F ratio in there.

Thanks for the input guys

You could always play around with it in the beginning and always have someone help you. I'm sure somebody on here would give you a hand. I would just use a cluster with a boost gauge and wideband.

if you get link you can run speed density and ditch the maf

There is no need for him to have a harder time tuning and spend more $$$$. He is fine with the 2g maf or even getting an evo maf

 

[T is for TURBO]

I agree, there is no need for a GM maf, unless you REAAAAALLLY want to vent. But for the sake of keeping it simple, just use the 2g maf. It will make tuning way easier, especially if you are just getting your feet wet with tuning.

 

[compression]

Gm maft , for increased flow, sensor relacation, and Injectors size setting.
650+, i know you won't need that large for 300/350 but they are so close in price its just better to have wiggle room
Fmic , the one stated above is great.
Walbro 255 with afpr, or a 190 without one. ( I would go 255 unless funds are tight)
Evo 3 16g
Pocket loggers
Wideband ,boost gauge

That's a pretty basic list but its got everything you need . I went low 12's with this setup ( I ran evo 8 pump , 190lph)

Gauge pods, the one that goes in your center vent is awesome. The one that houses two gauges. Looks clean and there's lots of room to run wires/hose behind it to make it clean.

 

[icerob]

skip the maft and just get the ecmlink!

 

[compression]

skip the maft and just get the ecmlink!

Well , yes ecmlink is better , but after getting an eprom, socket it and buying ecmlink he would have spent 800$ + alone ( of course could be less)

Even then I would still like the Gm Maf. In which case you would want the cable or make your own.
For a 300-350 HP goal the maft will be more cost effective . He could get one used and an evo 3 16g for that price

 

[daren_p]

After a quick skim over, I'd ditch the MAF setup, go with ECMLINk & run speed density. Personally not really a fan of Greddy products, I'd look at Forge, Tial, HKS, etc for a BOV. Also wouldn't recommend the Apexi N1 system, the resonator in that system is a huge restriction (necks down to ~2" internally), so its a huge power restriction in the upper rpms. If you must have that system, cut out the resonator & add another resonator that is a true 3" internal diameter (such as Vibrant Performance).

If you want to save some cash, don't bother with the evoIII O2 housing. The gains over a stock ported will be very slim & alot of downpipes won't work with the evo housing as its at a slightly different angle vs the stocker (RRE make a DP that will work with it, if you want to run it).

Also not a fan of Autometer mechanical gauges. I've ran a number of them over the years & I haven't had any that were tht accurate, some way out when new & some drifted a good amount over a year or two.

I wouldn't bother with a SMIC setup, save up & go FMIC, its defently worth it.

I'd also recommend the ACT XACT flywheel over the Fidanza. The Fidanza can cause driveability issues because its so light, they don't have the best quality control & they won't absorb/handle heat as well as the ACT. The ACT is ~12lbs vs stock ~18lbs, while the Fidanza is ~7-8lbs.

2600PP is also a pretty heavy pressure plate (not the best choice for thrust bearing wear). I personally wouldn't run this PP on a 7 bolt. SouthBend make some nice alternatives.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Well , yes ecmlink is better , but after getting an eprom, socket it and buying ecmlink he would have spent 800$ + alone ( of course could be less)

Even then I would still like the Gm Maf. In which case you would want the cable or make your own.
For a 300-350 HP goal the maft will be more cost effective . He could get one used and an evo 3 16g for that price

$125 for the GM MAF + $200 for the translator= $325

Then you have to add in $800 for when he realizes that he wasted $325 for a MAFT. Now he's up to $1125.

There is just no need for a GM MAF, the 2g maf won't be overrun until after 400hp. Add to that, it's just so damned simple to tune with a 2g maf.

 

[compression]

$125 for the GM MAF + $200 for the translator= $325

Then you have to add in $800 for when he realizes that he wasted $325 for a MAFT. Now he's up to $1125.

There is just no need for a GM MAF, the 2g maf won't be overrun until after 400hp. Add to that, it's just so damned simple to tune with a 2g maf.

i bought my maft new for 200 and got a sensor for 20$ from scrap yard. sold my used with sensor for 100, so new would be less then $300.

and speed density is a royal pain in the ass to tune just so you know.

a maft has three knobs for tuning, it cant get too much more simple then that. i am not denying ecmlink is better, hell i run it and suggest it. but he needs to get EVERYTHING including the turbo, fuel , some sort of management, clutch flywheel etc etc. i doubt he will want to go all out and buy the best of the best in each category. he wants an evo 3 16g , he didnt state he wanted a gt42r with a top mount manifold.

best bang for the buck for what YOUR LOOKING FOR is the maft setup IMO.

and i am not saying he will overrun the 2g mafs, theres no way in hell he is with what he wanting. i was leaning maft for the reasons i stated above, flow, sensor relocation, and injector size setting.

not arguing, i agree with you. if he was shooting for a higher goal i would recommend ecmlink w/ speed density 100%

 

[AngelOfPassion]

I definitely want to stick with the GMMAF, I feel like it is complicated enough to where i could get a decent set up but not so complicated that i will fell defeated. And it is relatively cost effective.

I will definitely look into a different flywheel. Thanks for the input on that I will look at the ACT flywheels.

Will this O2 housing bolt to an EVO16g?
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=21121&cat=256&page=1

What clutch from SouthBend do you recommend? The parts guide doesn't have any links to any vendors... Or would an ACT 2100 be better?

 

[DWR-DSM]

I definitely want to stick with the GMMAF, I feel like it is complicated enough to where i could get a decent set up but not so complicated that i will fell defeated. And it is relatively cost effective.

I will definitely look into a different flywheel. Thanks for the input on that I will look at the ACT flywheels.

Will this O2 housing bolt to an EVO16g?
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

What clutch from SouthBend do you recommend? The parts guide doesn't have any links to any vendors... Or would an ACT 2100 be better?

Yes it would. You could save money with the megan o2 housing. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[db5424]

i know i'm new and shouldn't give advice, but i can give stuff to look in to that i saw or have read about. i saw a youtube video on how to rebuild a turbo and he rebuilt a evo 16g and bought a kit on ebay that had a 20g wheel and a 16g housing machined for a 16g turbo. he kind of created a hybrid turbo. i don't know if this is a good idea but i thought i would give you something to look into.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Yes it would. You could save money with the megan o2 housing. EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Thanks I saved that one to my parts list

 

[LiquidX]

Hi everyone, I have been planning a GSX build and have done many hours of research on this site. I think I have my build plan solid and would like some feedback on the mods and mod order that I have come up with.

If you see anything that has caused problems for you in the past or that you think is not good for the car let me know.

My goal is to have a part time track car that has about 300-350hp and not have any cooling problems.

Thank you for reading, here is my plan:

Step One:

Upper Intercooler Piping, BOV, Intake Pipe, and GM MAF

Blow thru upper intercooler pipe
GM 3.0" MAF
MAF translator
Greddy type RZ bov
No MAS intake pipe with PCV and charcoal connection

Step Two:

PCV Connection

Attach a fuel filter in the pcv line so no oil gets into cooling system.

Step Three:

I would get a better BOV than the POS Greddy.

Your step 2 has me a bit WTF

After hours of searching, how did you come up with that???

 

[ed1380]

Step 2 is a poor man's catch can.

What year 2g are we talking about? 98 and 99 have the flashable ecu, so no need for ecmlink. And it's still cheaper to buy the flashable ecu and openport2.0 vs ecmlink

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Step One:

Upper Intercooler Piping, BOV, Intake Pipe, and GM MAF

Blow thru upper intercooler pipe
GM 3.0" MAF
MAF translator
Greddy type RZ bov
No MAS intake pipe with PCV and charcoal connection.

Skip the MAFT, ECMlink with SD will be a much better choice and you'll see it in the long run. Please do not get that Greddy POS bov. A Tial would get the job done. A PR or VRSF fmic are the two most common budget FMICs you can get for your money.

Step Two:

PCV Connection

Attach a fuel filter in the pcv line so no oil gets into cooling system..

Ditch this idea and get a rather cost effective catch can setup, I know this is the poor man's way but do it right the first time.

Step Three:

Gauges and Boost Controller

Autometer Water Temp Gauge
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Manual boost controller

Add a wideband to this list while you're at it and I would suggest a Hallman MBC.

Step Four:

Exhaust

Apexi N1 cat back exhaust
Apexi N1 downpipe
Forced Performance DSM race manifold
DSM Evo III o2 housing

While I have a soft spot for Apexi exhausts, if you'll be buying it brand new then I would recommend another brand. Preferably HKS or Thermal R&D.

Step Five:

Lower Intercooler Piping and Turbo Upgrade

LIP for 16G turbo
MITSUBISHI TD05H "EVO III BIG" 16G

Please remember the install kit for the 16g, one that includes the J pipe for a FMIC. LIP wont be needed with the FMIC kit.

Step Six:

Upgraded SMIC or FMIC


Haven't decided on getting a Supra MKIV side mount or ETS 95-99 Eclipse 2G DSM 12" Ultra Race Super Short Route Intercooler Kit.

I don't know if i want to spend the money on that FMIC but i also don't know if the supra can handle cooling.

While ETS is what I would recommend, the PR or VRSF is more than enough for your goals and at a reasonable price.

Step Seven:

Clutch and Flywheel

Fidanza 7bolt flywheel
Act 2600 clutch

 

[LiquidX]

Well since a few others have avoided it.

OP, the PCV does not hook to the coolant system. The PCV is the changable nipple on the back of the valve cover towards the fire wall. The hose attaches to the intake manifold.

It allows ventilation of the crankcase by having the engine vacuum suck any positive pressure out. During boost operation, the valve is to close up (since it's a check valve) to prevent positive pressure from going into the crank case.

I believe what you meant to say is the valve cover breather vent that normally hooks to the intake pipe is where you would put the fuel filter. That prevents oil from blow by from being sucked up into the intake system.

It works and it works well if you have the right style filter. You want one that has both the inlet and outlet nipples on the top of the filter. I use it but I have my line open to the atmosphere since my intake pipe doesn't have nipples on it.