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My REVISED GSX build plan; more ideas and criticism appreciated.

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AngelOfPassion

10+ Year Contributor
1,013
5
Jul 5, 2011
Mesa, Arizona
I have a 1997 GSX 5-speed and my goal is to achieve about 300-350hp and I want the cooling system to be able to handle a day at the track, as in a circuit course not a drag strip. It will be a part time track car only.

I am still saving up for parts and would like to get each "stage/step" done all at once. Feel free to comment on any parts you have had trouble with or any pointers you have for me.

I am currently in the process of getting maitenance done on the car before I start adding parts. We have flushed all the fluids and checked the xfer case. And I am saving up to do a new timing belt and water pump.
Obviously we have changed out the oil as well haha. Also, there is a little play in the front two tires. So maybe new control arms/rack and pinion. Haven't really looked into it to see what it is yet.


Step 1:

ESMlink


ESMlink V3


Step 2:

Exhaust


ApexiN1 cat back
ApexiN1 downpipe
Forced Performance Manifold
Megan Racing O2 sensor housing



Step 3:

Gauges and Boost Controller


Manual Boost Controller
Innovate MTX-L wideband added
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge DONE! (had one laying around)

Autometer WaterTemp Gauge REMOVED
Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge (for now) REMOVED



Step 4:

FMIC, BOV, Intake Pipe and Filter


VRSF 2G FMIC
1g OEM BOV
Dejon Tool Intake pipe with stock MAS and VCV and Charcoal connections
K&N FIPK Air Filter Kit added
Install a catch can between VCV and intake pipe.


GM MAF REMOVED
MAFtranslator REMOVED
HKS SSQV bov REPLACED



Step 5:

Fuel


Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Fuel Injector Clinic 850cc Injectors




Step 6:

Clutch and Flywheel


South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Assemblies
ACT STREETLITE FLYWHEEL



Step 7:

Turbo Upgrade


MITSUBISHI TD05H "EVO III" 16G
2g Install Kit




Thanks for reading and let me know if you have had any problems with any of the parts/setup above.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, usually there is a group of injectors that are the close together, like 650-850 are all within 10$ of each other on fics website. Then you get a nice jump of 26$ for 950s and then it starts going up more.

Best thing to do is get the biggest ones you think you will ever need first. Unless its daily driven, then get the biggest ones that you think you will ever need that idle well.
 
950cc's from the classifieds, all day.

I would get ECMlink v3 as the first mod. Not just for the capabilities, but for the level of insight it allows. Your ability to see what the car is doing goes from essentially nil(dummy gauges) to full logging capabilities, enabling perception into every aspect of the tune. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it.

I know you have v3 listed first, but you also have the intake listed first and eventually you might realize SD is the way to go, removing that little bit of restriction in the intake, and you'll probably want to get a different one. So, that's my only advice other than it's extremely difficult to write out and execute a "build list" because it's going to change as you progress. It must change, and it has actually, this is only the second revision. :thumb: Good luck with the build, mod wisely.
 
950cc's from the classifieds, all day.

I would get ECMlink v3 as the first mod. Not just for the capabilities, but for the level of insight it allows. Your ability to see what the car is doing goes from essentially nil(dummy gauges) to full logging capabilities, enabling perception into every aspect of the tune. You'll wonder how you ever lived without it.

I know you have v3 listed first, but you also have the intake listed first and eventually you might realize SD is the way to go, removing that little bit of restriction in the intake, and you'll probably want to get a different one. So, that's my only advice other than it's extremely difficult to write out and execute a "build list" because it's going to change as you progress. It must change, and it has actually, this is only the second revision. :thumb: Good luck with the build, mod wisely.

Well maybe once I figure out what Speed Density even is, I will switch to a different intake. But I have never tuned a car before and this is my first Turbocharged car. So I was trying to make it as simple as possible. Which is why originally I wanted to just do a GMmaf with translator. But I am planning on getting ECMlink as one of the first things.

I would recommend ceddymod. Its 1/2 the price of ecmlink

I will look at it, but I feel like I would get more help from the forums if I was using ECMlink because that seems to be the popular choice.
 
I saw someone mention that they believe that the N1 downpipe is the restriction. This could very well be true, I bet that flex section snugs right down, I've not seen it. However, the real culprit is the N1 catback. The resonators neck down to under 2". I've seen it.

Just don't buy overprices Apexi aluminized steel exhausts. I don't have any comment on the GT variety other than more over pricing.
 
Yeah if you don't need a carb number on it, just go with cheapo ebay stainless steal catback and a megan or punishment down pipe.

Either that or have it fabricated locally. Honestly the best way to do it (no drone @ cruising speed full performance on demand) would be an electric cut-out with a 3" downpipe. Ceddy mods is just expensive as DSM link once you factor in the cost of the H8 ecu, and the cable, and a patch harness. Ceddy is just nice for people that allready have an h8 ecu.
 
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