My REVISED GSX build plan; more ideas and criticism appreciated.

[AngelOfPassion]

I have a 1997 GSX 5-speed and my goal is to achieve about 300-350hp and I want the cooling system to be able to handle a day at the track, as in a circuit course not a drag strip. It will be a part time track car only.

I am still saving up for parts and would like to get each "stage/step" done all at once. Feel free to comment on any parts you have had trouble with or any pointers you have for me.

I am currently in the process of getting maitenance done on the car before I start adding parts. We have flushed all the fluids and checked the xfer case. And I am saving up to do a new timing belt and water pump.
Obviously we have changed out the oil as well haha. Also, there is a little play in the front two tires. So maybe new control arms/rack and pinion. Haven't really looked into it to see what it is yet.


Step 1:

ESMlink

ESMlink V3


Step 2:

Exhaust

ApexiN1 cat back
ApexiN1 downpipe
Forced Performance Manifold
Megan Racing O2 sensor housing



Step 3:

Gauges and Boost Controller

Manual Boost Controller
Innovate MTX-L wideband added
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge DONE! (had one laying around)

Autometer WaterTemp Gauge REMOVED
Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge (for now) REMOVED



Step 4:

FMIC, BOV, Intake Pipe and Filter

VRSF 2G FMIC
1g OEM BOV
Dejon Tool Intake pipe with stock MAS and VCV and Charcoal connections
K&N FIPK Air Filter Kit added
Install a catch can between VCV and intake pipe.


GM MAF REMOVED
MAFtranslator REMOVED
HKS SSQV bov REPLACED



Step 5:

Fuel

Walbro 190lph Fuel Pump
Fuel Injector Clinic 850cc Injectors



Step 6:

Clutch and Flywheel

South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Assemblies
ACT STREETLITE FLYWHEEL



Step 7:

Turbo Upgrade

MITSUBISHI TD05H "EVO III" 16G
2g Install Kit




Thanks for reading and let me know if you have had any problems with any of the parts/setup above.

 

[dallasadkins90]

what about a data logger ? i think that and a wideband is a must. also suspension ideas?

 

[90_eclipse]

You really don't need a MAF-T unless you want to vent (hence why I actually got one... The noise is fun, but money could of been spent better else where). The stock MAF, especially the 2g, is more than adequate and it'll be a long time before you out flow it.

I would look somewhere else for a BOV. I LOVED my SSQV sound, but right now mine is leaking like crazy. I'm currently running my 1g, and I don't really see myself fixing my SSQV.

You can just use a simple breather filter, or just leave it completely open if you don't mind getting the engine bay a bit dirty. There aren't large quantities of oil spewing out. A catch can is more eye candy if anything and they're pricey for its basic purpose.

KEEP AN INTAKE PIPE AND FILTER ON THE TURBO. A tiny pebble can ruin your day if it makes its way into the turbo. Also you will be pulling a lot of hot air from the engine bay. There is a reason why the stock setup has the filter so far away from the engine and in a well vented spot.

No need for the water temp gauge (stock is fine) and definitely DO NOT USE A NARROW BAND. I just had a problem with mine which caused to screw up my low fuel maps pretty badly. Basically the o2 sensor creates its own voltage. A narrow band reads this voltage which gives you your light show. Unfortunately, tapping into the very weak signal the o2 sensor screws the ECU's reading. I've gone through 3 o2 sensors and then believed it was my ECU's fault for having my frt02 reading stuck at 199% or 100% without movement. DO NOT USE A NARROWBAND.

For the most part, manual boost controllers all have the same design. GET A BALL AND SPRING, NOT A BLEEDER STYLE. Nothing against hallman, but why not just get a simple NXS controller off of eBay which are proven?

Personally, I think it's much cheaper to have a local exhaust shop custom make an exhaust for you. Just get a muffler, hi-flow cat, and down pipe and have it all welded as one piece. Less chance of leakage, and it's essentially how your exhaust would be if you had bolted flanges since after some time of being exposed to the elements, the metal would freeze together.

Any 16g will give you the numbers you're looking for, FYI.



All in all assuming that you don't want to go with LINK (which I highly recommend), you should look into... (in preferable order)

-DATA LOGGER
-Boost gauge
-Boost Controller
-FMIC/BOV
-Exhaust
-Any piggyback device
-Fuel Injectors
-Fuel Pump
-Exhaust components
-Turbo

 

[LiquidX]

Get an Innovate MXT-L wideband.

 

[Boostinsideways]

No such animal as an EVO III 16g, its a either a Small, Big, or Evo 3.

Big 16g and evo III are different turbos.

FP Manifold isn't need for your goals.
Don't bother with the autometer if its a narrowband. Narrowbands are as useless as a tits on a boar hog.

Does the ACT come with a detachable friction surface? If not consider the fidanza. It comes with a detachable friction surface.

I would also consider a 1g throttle body. You need to open up the intake manifold to match the throttle body, but it is nothing that you can't do with a cheap dremel and a porting kit. I did mine in about a half hour with the engine still in the car. Just stuff some rags in there and port with one hand while you suck up metal shavings with the other. Or get a friend to go on vacuum duty.

I would consider a Wally 190 LPH or Evo 8/9 fuel pump and a re-wire kit.

I like my SSQV but you can get much cheaper bovs. I will admit, I only got the SSQV because of the different sound, and the the shape. It looks cooler than a lot of bovs.

@ the guy who said his leaks, you probably just need to replace the o-ring gasket. Either that or its a knockoff. The SSQV is proven to hold until about 50 psi.

 

[PotatoFlakeSTi]

Not sure why you made a new post, the original was only 5 days ago.

Anyhow, you were told in the last one, and this is pretty important;
A narrowband sensor with an A/F gauge will tell you absolutely no useful information.

Gl with your build

 

[90_eclipse]

@ the guy who said his leaks, you probably just need to replace the o-ring gasket. Either that or its a knockoff. The SSQV is proven to hold until about 50 psi.

I did replace the o-ring and even the c-clamp. The flange weld is fine, it's just the primary valve opens prematurely in boost. I have the older design with the tension screw and tightening/loosening it doesn't fix my problem.

 

[compression]

So I posted an original build plan awhile ago and there were MANY issues with my layout so I decided to post my revised version to receive further guidance to what is best for my car.

I have a 1997 GSX 5-speed and my goal is to achieve about 300-350hp and I want the cooling system to be able to handle a day at the track, as in a circuit course not a drag strip. It will be a part time track car only.

I am still doing research about wideband(i have no idea wtf i am looking for/at ) so i have not included any plans for it in this particular build yet.

Step 1:

FMIC and BOV

VRSF 2G FMIC
GM MAF
MAFtranslator
HKS SSQV bov shop around there are better alternatives.
No MAS intake pipe with VCV and Charcoal connections

Step 2:

Valve Cover Breather Vent

Install a catch can to prevent oil to build up in the intake system

Step 3:

Gauges and Boost Controller

Autometer WaterTemp Gauge useless really.
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Gauge (for now)
no, hell no.

Manual Boost Controller (Hallman) hallmans are great and proven. but so are the ebay ball and spring. i accually use one and it was 25$ shipped.

Step 4:

Exhaust

Still looking but so far sticking with:
ApexiN1 cat back
ApexiN1 downpipe i would go for your run of the mill exhaust shop and have one made, probably flow better then that ( assuming that is the exhaust that bottlenecks at 2" ) and will cost less.
Forced Performance Manifold
Megan or Punishment O2 sensor housing

Step 5:

Turbo Upgrade

MITSUBISHI TD05H "EVO III BIG" 16G
2g Install Kit

Step 6:

Clutch and Flywheel

South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Assemblies
ACT STREETLITE FLYWHEEL


Thanks for reading and let me know if you have had any problems with any of the parts/setup above.

i would not get the aem wideband , as popular as it is.
you will need some sort of fuel management. walbro 190 lph or the evo 8 fuel pump will be more then enough. and even though 650cc+ injectors arent needed for 300-350whp i would get them anyways. the higher the more wiggle room for later.

so far the rest looks ok.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

what about a data logger ? i think that and a wideband is a must. also suspension ideas?

I don't have any suspension ideas yet, I will try to learn more about dataloggers.

KEEP AN INTAKE PIPE AND FILTER ON THE TURBO. A tiny pebble can ruin your day if it makes its way into the turbo. Also you will be pulling a lot of hot air from the engine bay. There is a reason why the stock setup has the filter so far away from the engine and in a well vented spot.

The intake pipe i am buying does have a filter and it keeps the filter relatively close to the stock position.

Get an Innovate MXT-L wideband.

That is really specific, thanks. I will add it to my text doc and read up about it.

No such animal as an EVO III 16g, its a either a Small, Big, or Evo 3.

Big 16g and evo III are different turbos.

FP Manifold isn't need for your goals.
Don't bother with the autometer if its a narrowband. Narrowbands are as useless as a tits on a boar hog.

Does the ACT come with a detachable friction surface? If not consider the fidanza. It comes with a detachable friction surface.

I would also consider a 1g throttle body. You need to open up the intake manifold to match the throttle body, but it is nothing that you can't do with a cheap dremel and a porting kit. I did mine in about a half hour with the engine still in the car. Just stuff some rags in there and port with one hand while you suck up metal shavings with the other. Or get a friend to go on vacuum duty.

I would consider a Wally 190 LPH or Evo 8/9 fuel pump and a re-wire kit.

Yeah, the EVO III is the one I want. I copied and pasted the name from extremepsi.

The FP manifold is pretty cheap and I have heard really good things about them.

I have seen the 1g throttle body vfaqs and i am considering it. I don't plan on going past 14-16psi but if I do I will be sure to upgrade to a 190LPH

Not sure why you made a new post, the original was only 5 days ago.

Anyhow, you were told in the last one, and this is pretty important;
A narrowband sensor with an A/F gauge will tell you absolutely no useful information.

Gl with your build

I will definitely upgrade to a wideband. I am just still learning about them so I didn't put it in the build yet.

 

[90_eclipse]

Basically a wideband gauge uses a wideband o2 sensor that is screwed into a bung that is welded somewhere on the down pipe. It needs to be at least 2? (not sure of the exact measurement) feet from the turbo. The process is relatively simple... First determine a spot on the down pipe, drill into the section, and weld the bung onto it. Remember, WELD- not JBWeld haha...

But the Wideband Sensor actually gives you the ratio (the ideal air/fuel ratio being 14.7:1), and basically tells you if your car is running rich or lean. Wideband tuning is usually for WOT.

Like any gauge, it has it's it's source sensor plug-in (the source being the wideband o2 sensor), unit power, and also connections for data logging.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Basically a wideband gauge uses a wideband o2 sensor that is screwed into a bung that is welded somewhere on the down pipe. It needs to be at least 2? (not sure of the exact measurement) feet from the turbo. The process is relatively simple... First determine a spot on the down pipe, drill into the section, and weld the bung onto it. Remember, WELD- not JBWeld haha...

But the Wideband Sensor actually gives you the ratio (the ideal air/fuel ratio being 14.7:1), and basically tells you if your car is running rich or lean. Wideband tuning is usually for WOT.

Like any gauge, it has it's it's source sensor plug-in (the source being the wideband o2 sensor), unit power, and also connections for data logging.

Ok that makes sense... thank you.

And about the exhaust, it looks like the N1 downpipe is where the restriction is so I was thinking to do a 3" Megan Racing downpipe with the Apexi N1 catback instead of both Apexi. And Compression, I will consider having a custom one made.

 

[LiquidX]

90_eclipse

The wideband doesn't need to be 2' from the turbo. Mysf and many others run narrow band simulation using the wideband in the front of bung on the o2 housing.

 

[1990AWD]

I have a 1997 GSX 5-speed and my goal is to achieve about 300-350hp and I want the cooling system to be able to handle a day at the track, as in a circuit course not a drag strip. It will be a part time track car only.

I am still doing research about wideband(i have no idea wtf i am looking for/at ) so i have not included any plans for it in this particular build yet.

Step 1: Tuning.

ECMLink V3 Lite .Best investment I've ever made for my car.
Innovate MTX or LC-1 wideband; they work well with ECMLink and are able to be calibrated, therefore more accurate, especially over time.

Step 2: FMIC and BOV

VRSF 2G FMIC
GM MAF
1g DSM BOV
No MAS intake pipe with VCV
Emissions/vacuum lines delete.

Not much to say here, pretty straight forward.

Step 3: Catch Can and cooling.

Install a catch can to prevent oil to build up in the intake system. If you can afford it, get one made by Craig (Calan), or at least try to get two, one between the PCV and IM and one between VC and intake pipe. This will give the performance, especially for autocrossing.

I would first see how well your cooling system can handle a day at the track, but you may need to upgrade to a better rad and fans in the future. I would try a 180* thermostat, and clean, good coolant, and see how it goes from there.

Step 4: Gauges and Boost Controller

Autometer WaterTemp Gauge
Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Manual Boost Controller (brand doesn't really matter IMO)

Step 5 Exhaust

Still looking but so far sticking with:
Apexi N1 cat back
Apexi N1 downpipe or Megan Racing 3" downpipe
Forced Performance Manifold (really good for the money, but not necessarily needed.)
Megan or Punishment O2 sensor housing

Apexi's are really expensive and I have the Megan Racing downpipe and cat-back and I really like it for a fraction of the price.
Only thing I have to say about the O2 housing is that a ported 2g would probably work just fine for you, but if you wanted, you could get a Evo III O2 housing, but not all downpipes will fit as the flange is ever so slightly angled different.

Step 6: Clutch and Flywheel

South Bend Clutch Heavy Duty TZ-Series Kevlar Clutch Assemblies
ACT Streetlite Flywheel

I've heard good things about that clutch and the ACT is a good flywheel because it is chromoly and will withstand heat better than an aluminum one like the Fidanza.

Step 7: Fuel System.

Injectors, depending on what fuel your using, probably around 850cc I'd imagine.
Walbro 190lph fuel pump and re-wire.

Step 8: Turbo Upgrade

MHI EVO III 16G
2g Install Kit

Good choice.

My $.02

(btw, I edited that all with my iPhone )

 

[AngelOfPassion]

My $.02

(btw, I edited that all with my iPhone )

Yeah, I am starting to think that I should just drop the $500 ish on ECMlink... I will have absolutely no idea what I am doing though...

 

[92AWDHX40]

ITs user friendly watch the demos, look on forums and ask questions its a learning process.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Ditched the GM maf and translator and sticking with stock MAS and ECMlink, edited original post to show changes

 

[18Ace18]

Dont forget suspension, pretty important. Some tokiko coilovers would do the job. Id also upgrade the injectors along with the fuel pump.

And yes go with a wideband.

1000 cc injectors + walbro 255 fuel pump + dsmlink + evo 3 16g + good tune = the hp your looking for

I made 410 hp on same setup + e85 (evo 3 16g ftw)

Look around on extremepsi.com or stmtuned.com for parts needed, youll findmost on there.

Good luck with the car

You can also go with speed density instead of gm maf, its a great upgrade!

 

[goodbuds]

you dont need o2 housing unless your running external waste gate. t

 

[LiquidX]

I finally read over it all.

If you want 300-400 hp you will need to upgrade your fuel. EMCLink v3 which you have listed is an excellent choice, you'll need larger injectors and an AFPR isn't bad either to add in.

If you have any sort of notion of going to a larger turbo, wanting more power, or even running E85 I would go with FIC 1250 at the minimum. Link will control them so you will be fine with large injectors on a small turbo.

Fuel pump will be needed, the Deatchwerks 300lph pump has been excellent and I like it much better than the Walbro 255 I was running, it's a lot quieter as well. An AFPR to make sure your fuel pressure is in check and correct.

I would hold off on the intake pipe until you are for sure on the turbo you want to run. If you plan on going larger I would hold off and just run an ebay pipe ($50) until you get to the big boy. I personally ran a stock intake for 4 years until I upgraded to the Holset HX40 with a 4" inlet so I could get a nice Dejon Tool 4" pipe to match.

For the boost gauge, get at a minimum of a 30psi gauge. I started with a 20psi gauge thinking it would be enough and now I'm at a 45psi gauge.

Personally I would hold off on a catch can until you know for sure you need one. I've been fine running without one, however, I don't have any blow by happening. I do use an Autozone plastic fuel filter (inlet and outlet nipple on top) just in case anything decides to get pushed out. It's still as clear as the day I bought it.

One of these will help greatly if you put it in between the PCV and the intake manifold just in case the PCV is leaking.

With the exhaust, it all depends on the sound you want, you can either get your own made and use some better mufflers, go with a name brand and pay some dough, or go with eBay and just tweak it a bit to fit for cheap.

The Megan Racing o2 housing is a pretty decent piece and will make the turbo area look a bit nicer as well as remove some weight but it's your call if you want it or not. A ported 2g housing will have more flow than a 2.5" o2 housing IIRC.

I wouldn't worry about suspension right now at all until it's needed sometime down the road.

I would however highly recommend that you get better brakes. I like the combo I use which is Power Slot rotors and Hawk HP+ pads. They squeak and squeal a good bit but stop on a dime. You'll be thankful for having better brakes when you start making more power.

All-in-all, do it right and buy it once.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Thanks Liquid, I will start reading about fuel.

I definitely only want an Evo III turbo. I have thought about it alot and i really don't want to go any bigger than that. So the intake pipe is ok.

The car actually already has a 20psi gauge on it so until i need more, i will keep it.

 

[doayamaha]

so i posted an original build plan awhile ago and there were many issues with my layout so i decided to post my revised version to receive further guidance to what is best for my car.

I have a 1997 gsx 5-speed and my goal is to achieve about 300-350hp and i want the cooling system to be able to handle a day at the track, as in a circuit course not a drag strip. It will be a part time track car only.

I am still doing research about wideband(i have no idea wtf i am looking for/at ) so i have not included any plans for it in this particular build yet.

step 1:

Fmic, bov and ecmlink

vrsf 2g fmic
ecmlink v3 w/ sd
1g oem bovDODGE GARAGE MODDED
880cc injectors or larger+ e85
WALLY 255HP
ARP L19'S
FPR


step 2:

Valve cover breather vent
install a catch can to prevent oil to build up in the intake system

step 3:

Gauges and boost controller


autometer boost/vacuum gauge
manual boost controller (hallman)
innovate mtx-l wideband added


step 4:

Exhaust

still looking but so far sticking with:
Apexin1 cat back
have a exhuast shop connect 02 to catback 3in catless
forced performance manifold
megan or punishment o2 sensor housing

step 5:

Turbo upgrade

mitsubishi td05h "e3 16g
2g install kit

step 6:

Clutch and flywheel

oh and not saying sb is a bad clutch but i am loving my fx500
south bend clutch heavy duty tz-series kevlar clutch assemblies if it where me i would make shure it is unsprung
fidanza flywheel due to its changable friction surface.


Thanks for reading and let me know if you have had any problems with any of the parts/setup above.

fixed*
ALMOST 400HP CAPABLE SETUP AND PROVEN DD,TIME ATTACK,DRAG, YOU NAME IT!

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and can look like this

 

[LiquidX]

Thanks Liquid, I will start reading about fuel.

I definitely only want an Evo III turbo. I have thought about it alot and i really don't want to go any bigger than that. So the intake pipe is ok.

The car actually already has a 20psi gauge on it so until i need more, i will keep it.

Sounds good then, just get an intake pipe to match the inlet of the turbo then. You'll probably end up wanting to get a 30psi gauge since the turbo is good for about 25psi.

Also if the E316G is all you want you would be fine with 750cc injectors and possibly a 190lph fuel pump or even an Evo pump (based on gasoline).

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Sounds good then, just get an intake pipe to match the inlet of the turbo then. You'll probably end up wanting to get a 30psi gauge since the turbo is good for about 25psi.

Also if the E316G is all you want you would be fine with 750cc injectors and possibly a 190lph fuel pump or even an Evo pump (based on gasoline).

Added them to the build, thx

 

[Boostinsideways]

Personally I would spend the extra 10$ and get the 850cc FICs gives you more room to grow later down the road and prevents you from buying parts twice.

or spend 11$ more and get these

PTE 880cc Injectors [SCIM880] - $290.00 : Jay Racing 880cc PTE injectors.

 

[AngelOfPassion]

Personally I would spend the extra 10$ and get the 850cc FICs gives you more room to grow later down the road and prevents you from buying parts twice.

or spend 11$ more and get these

PTE 880cc Injectors [SCIM880] - $290.00 : Jay Racing 880cc PTE injectors.

Actually the 850cc injectors are the same price as the 750cc on extremepsi , i didn't even notice, thanks I might as well get them