ECMlink Help! Car won't start

[pokeytsi]

Started the car a few weeks ago to pick up pizza, didn't make it, wasn't pushin on it, just driving and it lost all power and died on the side of the road. Fuses all look good, tested the relays, all good. noticed the CEL doesn't come on when i turn the key on. Pulled the ECU and had a burn mark on the board, sent it into the guys at ECMTuning. They said it was the BCS output transistor and repaired it. Gave it a clean bill of health.

I get it back and installed it, still won't start. still no CEL when I turn the key on. laptop won't connect to the ECU either. Went thru the troubleshooting steps checking the MPI relay, getting power to all the right pins of the ECU. Plugged in a generic code scanner and it connects to the ECU just fine, shows no codes.

I'm at a loss, sometimes it will try to start but won't and still no CEL when I turn the key on. Pullin my hair out at this point. someone please give me a direction here.

thanks for any help in advance.

Bernard

 

[steve]

Please post a log file (use add photos to attach) of you trying to start it.

Have you run down the standard won't start list? https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-diagnose-a-no-start.217951/

 

[pokeytsi]

Awesome thank you Steve. That's exactly what I needed when over it. I did cover most of them but there are a few that I've left out or didn't fully checks. I will go do those and report back. As far as the log, I'm not sure what it is you want, I haven't been able to get the laptop to or the link to connect to the ECU... Is there another way to pull a log for it or am I overthinking this

Thanks again for the direction. I'll let you guys know what I come up with?

 

[steve]

If a normal OBD2 scanner actually talks to it, I wonder if your CEL actually works. The green/red wire on pin 36 should have battery voltage on it with the ignition on and drop to close to 0 volts when the ECU is trying to turn it on.

Since you've run through the 2G MPI function in https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-basic-ecu-mfi-mpi-relay-circuit-function.497188/ it would seem that you have backup power and that the ECU sees the ignition signal, turns on the MPI relay and receives power on pins 12 and 25. It should at that point turn on the CEL and also move the boost gauge to the 0 point. Does the boost gauge move?

There have been issues in the past with pins shifting in the ODB2 port. It's a good idea to check it and make sure it's getting power. Is the light on the DSMLink cable turning on when you plug in in?

 

[pokeytsi]

so it's getting power at pin 36. the boost guage moves to the middle like it should, but the CEL still is not lighting up. could the bulb have died maybe? i just found a black wire with silver spots that looks like it broke at a solder joint, had to be from the previous owner as I haven't quite mastered the soldering game so I avoid and just use crimp connecters and shrink tube.

fixed the black wire, looks like it goes to pin 92
plugged the link into the laptop and holy crap it connected!

 

[steve]

I wouldn't have expected the sensor ground stopping the ECU from communicating but if it's working that's what matters.

 

[pokeytsi]

Me either. That was a little confusing but as you said, that it's working is what matters. It could have been something else that I wiggled or jiggled for all I know, but at least now I know why it's not starting as well. It finally threw up a code for crank's position sensor. I think the wire running behind the damn timing belt got chewed up again.. probably out to check the bulb for the CEL as well and replace it if it needs it .Again. Thank you again for all your help. I appreciate it. I'll post up and let know when I get started

 

[pokeytsi]

Okay sorry about the delay. Work's been crazy so I finally was just able to get the wiring for the crank sensor fixed, and this time i added length and damn thing outside the timing cover so it can't get chewed up by the time you built ever again however, it's still not starting. Currently giving two error codes. One is p0335 and the other is p1300. Could the sensor have been damaged when the wiring got chewed up? I don't know maybe shorted or something? And should I go ahead and replace that sensor now? I've never seen those error codes before so...?

 

[pokeytsi]

Crank sensor was bad. replaced it and still got the p0335 cel. Checked the wires and found a couple spots that felt broken wire, got those repaired and now no more CELs come up. unfortunately it still won't start. I've attached a log of me tryin to start it

thanks!!

Bernard

 

[steve]

Ok time to tell us about the car.
Looking at the log I'd expect it's drowning in fuel based on the InjOn times and the Airflow numbers.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Steve is right, here is the way to tell us all about your car.

Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser vehicle profiles, photos, build threads, specs, and information.

DSM vehicle profiles and build threads - posted by Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 owners

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[pokeytsi]

updated vehicle info, only thing I didn't put on it was that I have the kit from ecmlink to switch to speed density, just need to find someone to weld the air temp sensor bung, and wanted to get it running right before taking that plunge.

also forgot to mention, I charged the battery on a regular charger and now the CEL comes on when I turn the key on and goes out like it's sposed to. funny how much difference the correct amount of power makes...

 

[steve]

Stock injectors with a 20G?
Vented BOV with a 2G MAF and a hose nipple that needs to be capped off.

What have you verified from the no start template? Compression, Spark, Fuel?
With injector pulse widths like those in your log I'm be checking the plugs to make sure they aren't fuel fouled.

I see that you tried to get ECMLink to clear any flooding by holding the throttle all the way open but I doesn't look like it fired still.

 

[pokeytsi]

I'm currently only running 12-14psi boost, I know the 20g is best around 24ish, but not till I can upgrade the fuel, the hose nipple is plugged with jb weld and I verified it's sealed several times just to be sure.

Compression is 150-155 across the board. I had the plugs out this week as I also replaced the timing belt while I was replacing the crank sensor. The looked pretty dirty, sadly it didn't occur to me they could be fouled. Can I just clean them up with brake cleaner and a brush or should I replace them? I'll check for spark and fuel after breakfast and let you know from there

Is the injector pulse not what it should be? Far as I know it should be defaulted to stick injectors, but I can check and/or adjust if need be.

 

[steve]

Plugs are cheap so I replace them. You can try cleaning them to start with. Smell them to see if they smell like fuel before cleaning.

Currently your Global fuel is -0.8 and your Global deadtime is 40ms both should be 0 with stock injectors. Your Fuel Adjustment Table sliders go down to -14.5% @3500 RPM and those should all be 0 across the board right now.

Your InjOn time is about twice what I usually see from a 2G while cranking and I'm not sure if that's because of the changes that have been made to the OpenLoopMinOct Direct Access table or something else.

 

[pokeytsi]

corrected the global fuel and deadtime settings back to 0
also zeroed out the fuel adjustment sliders
installed new spark plugs - no start
verified all 4 cylinders are getting spark
checked for fuel, there is pressure at the rail, have to run and pick up my fuel pressure test set to confirm proper pressure.
sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it fired up briefly, so that means even tho there's fuel pressure at the rail I'm not getting it into the cylinders? or there isn't enough pressure? gonna run and grab my tester so I can verifyj how much pressure I have at the rail.
also attached another log trying to start

 

[Stapl3]

MAF reading looks weird to me.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Have the injectors been serviced? I didn't go back thru all of the things that have been verified. A pressure test will show if its ready to fuel the engine or not.

 

[pokeytsi]

so I put a noid light on each of the injectors, and it's not firing the injectors at all. I'll test the fuel pressure later today when I get home, but the injectors should fire regardless if there's fuel pressure correct? what would prevent the ecu from activating the injectors?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Do you have the injector resistor pack plugged in?

 

[steve]

I haven't looked at the latest log but I'm not convinced Noid lights actually work on DSM's.
If the log shows Injector Pulse Widths > 0 then the ECU thinks it's firing them. It has minimum ability to be sure but will throw a fault code for the worst cases like an open injector or no power to the injector.

 

[nice97civic]

Pulse width isn't logged but InjEnabled is and they never move from 0.

 

[steve]

It's called InjOn, sorry.

"Troubleshooting: If the engine is cranking but the InjEnabled parameters show 0 (disabled), it indicates an issue with the ECU settings, injector wiring, or the resistor pack."

dsmlinkloggableparams [ECMTuning - wiki]

www.ecmtuning.com

I see that they are disabled currently, Perhaps try enabling them by selecting each in the MISC tab since they are disabled. That would turn them off and I'll have to add that to the list of things to check to see if someone turned one or more off in the future.

 

[nice97civic]

Click each of these buttons and then try, like Steve said.

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[pokeytsi]

will do. for them to be on, should the button show light color or darker? or just switch them to the opposite of what they currently are?