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Head Stud install help

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JDR7919

15+ Year Contributor
301
0
Jan 1, 2005
Titusville, Florida
I have some arps I want to install on my 7 bolt. I have been reading about installing them with the head still on the car and would like some clarification on a few things.
I know you remove 1 bolt at a time and replace it. But you have to torque the new stud in steps.
Does this mean I torque the new stud to 35 lbs then go to the next one and do it to 35 and so on. Or do I go 35 65 85 on one stud before going to the next stud?

Also I need arp lube can any assembly lube work?

Thanks
 
Finish one stud at a time before moving on to the next. You don't have to torque in steps, that's only for installing a head and gradually raising the torque on all studs evenly. You should torque and re-torque 3 times.
This means you should bring the stud nut up to full torque, then loosen it, then check the stud to make sure it didn't unscrew, if it did, screw it back in, then bring the nut up to full torque again. Repeat 3x. This will help seat the threads.

Like it says in the instructions, ARP lube is recomended. If you have the time, call or email ARP and get some. Plan B is to go to the auto parts store and get some moly based assembly lube or moly grease. Third best option is to use motor oil, although I don't recomend it at all.
 
Thanks pneumo that helps alot!!
 
Would it be better to drain the oil and radiator fluid?
 
No, since you're not removing the head it's not necessary.

Remember, if you decide to use 30wt. motor oil instead of the ARP moly lube you need to torque it to a higher amount. 120lb/ft instead of 80.

Edit: Sorry, just noticed that this is for a 7 bolt so the 120lb/ft may not be accurate.
 
Yes, but ARP has tested the molylube's coefficient of friction against the bolt torque setting
to achieve the proper bolt preload.
 
I think Im going to just get some moly lube from the auto parts store. I dont want to wait for it to get shipped.
 
what exactly is the point of using lube/ oil? What happens if you used NOTHING? would the bolt seize up before torqing properly?

When using oil on the threads if helps give a more exact torque number. In other words when you set your torque wrench to lets say 90 FT lbs its going to be damn close if not right on 90 FT lbs, when you use oil. Less friction on the bolt so you get a more accurate torque down spec.
 
I used a chaser tap to clean out all the head threads in the block. I applied a conservative amount of the lube Arp supplied to the stud threads and installed them finger tight into the block. The deck surfaces were cleaned meticulously with rubbing alcohol and the MLS head gasket was cleaned with lens solvent and a lint free cloth. The gasket was installed with proper orientation. I placed the head onto the block and torqued the nuts in a five step sequence starting at 10 ft llbs and concluded at 80 ft lbs. I then checked to see that the amount of threads above the bolts were all equal. I loosened all the nuts and repeated the process twice more. Some old timers say that to effectively pre-stretch the studs in a cold engine, the sequence should be repeated ten times. I will also check the torque after about 4 hours of engine run time at or above 5K rpms. It is also a good idea to make sure none of the washers or nuts hung up on the valve spring seats. This can happen on the 4G63 1G head. As I understand it, if the deck finish on the block and head is 40 RA or higher a copper spray should be used on the gasket only. I have decided to throw out my Cometic MLS head gasket and go with a Power Enterprise one. Heck, its only money. There are too many threads about 4g63's with MLS gaskets not sealing well. Since I have already spent my life's savings on this motor, I might as well do it right.
 
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