arp head stud install 1 by 1

[lauj2gdsm]

this polls for people who had install arp head studs 1 by 1 method without moving the head and gasket. what where your results after the install? was it a sucess ( held up boost fine )? or did it fail ( leaks, overheat, headgaset job )?

 

[KazooGS-T]

This makes no sense.

 

[Eeeeky]

no kidding...there are no failure stories, you install them, and forget about em.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

The only time it won't work is when someone takes too long to do it or when someone has overheated the engine and warped the head.

 

[FastGS-T]

its not a question of the type of fastener in this case, its a question of the condition of the head gasket. the worse the condition the less likely the arp stud will seal it using the 1 by 1 method


but if it makes you feel better i know someone who did it on an Evo that was a few years old and it worked

 

[tkelly27]

STM did it with their EVO a while back. It had the stock bottom end record until a missed shift ate up the valves.

 

[lauj2gdsm]

Im pretty sure the head gasket should be fine on this used jdm rvr engine low mileage thats sitting on the engine stand. i got the arps just sitting here waiting for the install. i was going to do the head resurface and new gasket but the last of my money budget has been spent. so i have no other option other than install it.

 

[romeen]

This makes no sense.

no kidding...there are no failure stories, you install them, and forget about em.

Just to clarify, the OP is talking about changing the head studs without removing the head.

I changed mine this way and have had no issues. I performed a compression test immediately before the install and again immediately after and once again approximately 1000 miles after that. No change in compression.

Just follow the normal install sequence 1-10. Some say to torque in steps as if you are installing them with a new HG. But that doesn't make sense to me. Since all of the others are already clamping down at a known torque value it seems to me that you should tighten to the factory value in the first step in order to maintain even clamping load over the entire gasket. Then go back and tighten to ARP's recommended value which is slightly higher.

One other thing I did before installing them is to measure the length of each stud using a micrometer and record it corresponding to it's location. This way if I need to remove them I can re-measure them and know whether it's safe to reuse them (a tech at ARP recommended this).

 

[KazooGS-T]

Just to clarify, the OP is talking about changing the head studs without removing the head.

I changed mine this way and have had no issues. I performed a compression test immediately before the install and again immediately after and once again approximately 1000 miles after that. No change in compression.

Just follow the normal install sequence 1-10. Some say to torque in steps as if you are installing them with a new HG. But that doesn't make sense to me. Since all of the others are already clamping down at a known torque value it seems to me that you should tighten to the factory value in the first step in order to maintain even clamping load over the entire gasket. Then go back and tighten to ARP's recommended value which is slightly higher.

One other thing I did before installing them is to measure the length of each stud using a micrometer and record it corresponding to it's location. This way if I need to remove them I can re-measure them and know whether it's safe to reuse them (a tech at ARP recommended this).

You will have a specific torque sequence you follow. You don't go full torque spec on the first go-around, on any type of bolt/stud. The reason is for proper seating, so you gradually torque to proper specs.

After reading others posts, I got what the topic was asking; but the initial post was terribly worded and really didn't make sense.

Many people have done the 1-by-1 method, and there should be no harm unless you mess something up. Please keep in mind, that you will not be able to put all of the washers on for the arp studs while the camshafts are still in the head, at least I had that problem on my 6-bolt head.

 

[romeen]

You will have a specific torque sequence you follow. You don't go full torque spec on the first go-around, on any type of bolt/stud. The reason is for proper seating, so you gradually torque to proper specs.

I thought it was to minimize distortion to the head and head gasket. Although I do understand what you are saying.

Many people have done the 1-by-1 method, and there should be no harm unless you mess something up. Please keep in mind, that you will not be able to put all of the washers on for the arp studs while the camshafts are still in the head, at least I had that problem on my 6-bolt head.

You bring up a really good point. IIRC, I put each washer in place before installing the stud and had no issues. I didn't have to remove the cams or any of the valve springs.

Edit: To get the washers positioned where I wanted them I put them over the shaft of a long screwdriver. While holding the washer in place I put the tip of the screwdriver right where I wanted the washer to end up and then let the washer slide down the screwdriver shaft and end up right where I wanted it. Not necessary but it does make things easier.

 

[KazooGS-T]

I thought it was to minimize distortion to the head and head gasket. Although I do understand what you are saying.



You bring up a really good point. IIRC, I put each washer in place before installing the stud and had no issues. I didn't have to remove the cams or any of the valve springs.

I'm glad you understood what I was trying to say, I kind of jumbled the words up and they didn't come out quite how I was meaning for them to.