head gasket question?

[thesmartestyet]

im getting ready to replace my head gasket with some arp studs on my 95 talon i was wonder if theres any problems im going to run in to? so if you have done your head gasket let me know so i know what to expect thanks

 

[talonTSIDriver]

im getting ready to replace my head gasket with some arp studs on my 95 talon i was wonder if theres any problems im going to run in to? so if you have done your head gasket let me know so i know what to expect thanks

Make sure you do the timing right, other than that, its fairly basic.

 

[SBR Joe]

Are you using an MLS gasket or a stock felt one?



Joe

 

[thesmartestyet]

im useing a cometic head gasket

 

[SBR Joe]

I would get the surface decked, a HG pushing coolant is enough to make you want to go crazy.


Joe

 

[marsh63]

ive never done this but make sure you drain your coolant first or you'll be doing a whole motor build. take you time. clean the surfaces really good. (if you can afford have it decked) its like $50

(ive seen alot of this happen and its not good your motor will not like the coolant.)

 

[jstipp79]

i have just done my 1g laser with arp head studs, and my roommates tsi 2g will have arp head studs used in it. make sure u have the head checked at a machine shop for flatness, have milled only enough to bring it back to specs. second, it would be good to check the block as well to make sure it is perfectly flat also. Lastly, ARP head studs are made from a much harder material than stock bolts so it is imparitive that they be torqued to the specs sent with the studs!!! NOT factory specs. 1g specs are final 120 LB/FT. and 2G should be around 65 LB/FT. Hope this helps. I have pics of my rebuild, so i can upload them if requested.

 

[thesmartestyet]

im not sure if the pics will be any help but if you could would you upload them thanks

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Hope this helps : http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...707-project-rely-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.html; at least it will familiarize you to the process of what you need to do to get the head back on. Remember, do a bit more research; torque from the middle out and torque in steps. 30 ft/lb (do the ENTIRE sequence for all studs), then 60 ft/lb, then 85 ft/lb with ARP supplied moly lube. If you are using conventional oil, torque to 110 ft/lb.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Heres how your suppose to torque them...

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Wow Tom look at you getting your thread out to everyone HAHA

Tom did a great walk through on his build, and if you check his thread out you shouldn't have a problem with doing this.


To the OP: Nice s/n is suit's you

 

[thesmartestyet]

alright thanks for all the help i am pulling the head off the car tomarow i will let you know how everything works out

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Heres how your suppose to torque them...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Wow Tom look at you getting your thread out to everyone HAHA

Tom did a great walk through on his build, and if you check his thread out you shouldn't have a problem with doing this.


To the OP: Nice s/n is suit's you

HAHA, i'm a forum whore, mind as well be a thread whore too Besides, what good is doing all that work taking pictures if no one is going to see it? While I have your attention, Happy new years to you too!

 

[tkelly27]

Doesn't the cometic require a certain smoothness (RA) on the head and block surfaces? I was under the impression that if it's not at a specified RA it will be worse than a stock HG. Also, is it even worth using the cometic one for a stock 7 bolt, let alone a 7 bolt using a 16g? I know you already have it, but below a certain power level aren't they more trouble than they are worth?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Doesn't the cometic require a certain smoothness (RA) on the head and block surfaces? I was under the impression that if it's not at a specified RA it will be worse than a stock HG. Also, is it even worth using the cometic one for a stock 7 bolt, let alone a 7 bolt using a 16g? I know you already have it, but below a certain power level aren't they more trouble than they are worth?

Yes, yes, and yes. Cometics, Titan ICS copper, mitsu MLS all require near perfect to perfect mating surfaces; not your typical "mill til it's flat" type of job. On cars that are running <30 psi of boost (or so) and/or are not extensively modified, there is no reason NOT to use an OEM headgasket. Hell, Most guys running that much boost and are making 500+whp (Keith from turbotrix ran 10's on a stock headgasket) still use OEM composite's, I know I am.

 

[meliketoball]

Remember to cover the cylinders when you clean everything!

 

[thesmartestyet]

that would be my first step after i get the head off but thanks for the heads up

 

[outkastracing]

if you dont use arp head studs make sure to inspect the head bolts on my first dsm the threads on the bolt were stretched and i got to do it all again as soon as i boosted

 

[thesmartestyet]

ouch...ill check the threads to be safe

 

[thesmartestyet]

i just replace my head gasket and its time for me to put the timing belt back on i have all my marks lined up but when i go to turn the tensioner to get some slack (counter clock wise) the tensioner will not move at all. help?

 

[turboglenn]

Is the bolt loose on the tensioner? I know it's a dumb question but i have to ask. Also i believe that on a 6 bolt the tensioner pully rotates up and on a 2g 7 bolt it rotates down. But i could be wrong, i just remember reading that on here some where. I always rotate mine upwards, tighten it and then pull the grenade pin. I've been on a 6 bolt for so long i'm trying to forget everything i can about 7 bolts

Also, it helps to pull the auto tensioner completely off untill you're ready to put it on and pull the pin on it. I get my belt on completely, set teh pully loose, then put the auto tensioner on and set it and go.
I hope that's what you're talking about.

GO to vfaq.com and read the timing belt install , great info there !!!

 

[thesmartestyet]

well after a little of research i need to compress the hydrolic tensioner and pin it so i can put the belt on

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Is the bolt loose on the tensioner? I know it's a dumb question but i have to ask. Also i believe that on a 6 bolt the tensioner pully rotates up and on a 2g 7 bolt it rotates down. But i could be wrong, i just remember reading that on here some where. I always rotate mine upwards, tighten it and then pull the grenade pin. I've been on a 6 bolt for so long i'm trying to forget everything i can about 7 bolts

Also, it helps to pull the auto tensioner completely off untill you're ready to put it on and pull the pin on it. I get my belt on completely, set teh pully loose, then put the auto tensioner on and set it and go.
I hope that's what you're talking about.

GO to vfaq.com and read the timing belt install , great info there !!!

Correct. 1G pulleys tension in a clockwise fashion and the 2G is a CCW rotation. As far as the grenade pin, that should be the LAST thing you do before you button up the car. That includes after the last step of rotating the engine 6 times manually.

well after a little of research i need to compress the hydrolic tensioner and pin it so i can put the belt on

Correct. Remember to tension the C-clamp 1/2 revolution at a time and waiting a min. between rotations.

 

[asexton6969]

Are you using a new timing belt and tensioner? I would seriously think about doing that.

 

[thesmartestyet]

im using the belt that was on there but it only has about 5000 miles on it if that and i think im going to try to use the tensioner thats on there now

 

[asexton6969]

I would seriously reconsider. Whenever dealing with those parts. Always just buy new ones. I know it may only have this many miles, etc. But for piece of mind. Please just replace them with oem.