Greg Collier DSM Tuners Sponsorship Cal Speedway

[Greg Collier]

Race Prep

After coolant system pressure tests, coolant system dye and blue light leak tests, engine compression tests, flow tested the PWR radiator, rewired the coolant pressure switch warning light, installed a new water pump and gasket, increased the height of the coolant breather tank, installed 2 new Greddy 1.3 bar (18 pound) radiator caps, replaced the banjo fitting with a straight line at the FP turbo oil filter, fabricated more sheet metal housing for efficient airflow, changed the motor oil and filter, changed the tranny fluid, bled the brakes and changed the pads, bled the clutch, re-torqued all the suspension bolts and nuts, changed the right front Hoosier tire, cleaned all the hot tire rubber globes that accumulate on the inside of the rims, cleaned the body and paint touch up on the front fascia, purchased another 40-gallons of VP race fuel, loaded the car on to the trailer, loaded the truck with spare tires, parts, and tools, the car was as ready as it would ever be for the TCRA/HSR California Speedway race in September.

Event

HSR (Historic Sportscar Racing) was holding its annual California Speedway race and invited TCRA (Touring Car Racing Association) and POC (Porsche Owners Club) to help with the astronomical costs of renting the facility. They were expecting 300 entries and 5000 spectators.

To The Track

It was a perfect 70-degree Southern California day when we arrived mid-morning on Friday to set up in our garage. The “Flying Banana” looked good, sounded good, and was ready for a weekend of fast laps and a podium finish.

After we were settled in we took a walk around the garages seeing some of the most stellar racecars ever built. One that caught my eye was the Dan Gurney team Mark-3 prototype that was built for the 1992 24 hour of Le Mans. The car was way ahead of its time with a complete carbon fiber body that looked like a jet fighter. Amazingly, it was powered by a Toyota 4-cylinder single turbo charged motor that made 1000 hp at 12000 rpm.

The event schedule called for a Saturday practice, timed qualifying, and then an actual qualifying race for the main trophy race on Sunday. Sunday we’d get an early morning practice and then the main race at 1:15 PM. I was running with the TCRA group that consisted of BMWs, Porsches, Acuras, Audis, Lotus Elise's, and some vintage stuff like a 1958 “Devin Special”. This car was tube framed with a fiberglass body powered by a modified 475 hp Corvette engine. It couldn’t have weighed over 1500 pounds and reminded me of an original Shelby Cobra. All in all it looked like a good group of somewhat competitive cars.

Saturday

We arrived at the track at 8am ready for our 8:30 drivers meeting. A hundred and forty drivers crammed into the Fontana drivers’ lounge where was discussed how great it was to be there and how everybody should be careful. The meeting was so short and layback I don’t know why they even bothered. The only good thing about the meeting was Tom Dixon showed up there to help us with the car over the weekend.

With the meeting complete we prepared for our practice laps. I started the car and it seemed to stutter. It was idling erratically but I figured it was cold and needed to be warmed up.

My run group that consisted of over 40 cars was practicing with another group of 20. The simple math of it was over 60 cars on the track at the same time. The Cal Speedway Le Mans configuration is 3 miles, but even so with 60 cars at the same time that was a little cramped.

I ran a couple of mid speed warm up laps getting the tires hot and re-orienting myself to the track. Lap three I picked it up and passed quite a few cars. Lap four I let it rip on the front straight of the oval and as I came to turn three onto the road course I noticed my water temps began to rise above 220 degrees. I finished the road course at slower speeds and took the car back to the garages. We let the motor cool and discovered we were having the same low water levels that we had experienced at the last race at Willow Springs. We also noticed that there was a fine mist of water and Water Wetter on the top of the tranny. Through further inspection we deduced that the new Greedy radiator cap wasn’t sealing properly. We pulled a rubber washer off one of our half dozen spare caps and placed it in the seat of the thermostat housing. When we re-installed the Greddy cap it seemed to be a better seal. We had timed laps coming up so that was the opportune time to test our fix.

Back out onto the track I began the same scenario of getting the tires warmed up and focusing on my driving form. The motor was still idling poorly in the pits but once out on the track the power was insane. I was ready to do some quick laps as I pulled onto the front straight of the oval. My run group was less the other 20 cars so there was some breathing room to get up to speed. I blasted through turn one then turn two came into view. I ran low on the track and could feel the g-forces via the incline of the oval pushing me down like I was on rails. Turn three came up real fast as I down shifted to 4th then 3rd. It’s so nice to have all the extra power in third gear that I don’t end up revving real high at slower speeds. My water temps were 210 and holding and I felt like we had the problem licked. I blew down the back straight toward a hard braking right-hander. This equates to 120mph straight to a 30mph buttonhook turn. After I braked and began to accelerate through the turn the rear end of the car swung around a teacup carnival ride. I immediately pushed in the clutch so I wouldn’t stall as I ended up facing the opposite direction on the track. Fortunately there were no oncoming cars so I was able to get back into position. I glanced at my water temps to see 220 degrees reading on the meter and I went directly to my garage.

We had two hours before the qualifying race so the hypothesis discussions began. The tranny was dry so the Greddy radiator cap was sealing. A Porsche mechanic who had been interested in the car since Friday suggested that we might be creating some sort of vortex at the radiator and ending up heat soaking. We thought, “what the hell” and removed one of the radiator fans. Tom rigged up a hose extension to the expansion tank, running the end up to the front windshield. That way if we were pumping any water out of the tank I’d immediately see it prior to any overheating.

Qualifying Race

It was 1:15pm with track temps of about 80 degrees. My race group of 43 cars were out on the track behind the pace car doing our warm up lap. Even with my spin out, my lap time put me in the 26th position for the qualifying race. We made it through the last turn out onto the oval and the pace car pulled onto the hot pit lane. We grouped up into our tight side-by-side starting fashion awaiting the swing of the mighty green flag.

Green, green, green, I powered from 2nd to 3rd gear. I took a high line toward turn one and immediately passed eight cars. I shot down the track toward the apex of the two increasing my momentum by two fold. I could see the cars in front of taking a wide entry into turn three onto the road course. Their tires were billowing smoke and I knew I had the braking power to take me through the inside of the turn. I set my course and went for it. The car responded like an F-15 as I gave just enough brake pressure to set me up for the quick and hard left right turns. I passed another five cars.

That left four cars to go as all my attention was on getting to the front. I had the entire road course to go to catch up. My Hoosiers stuck to the track like glue as my next victim came into sight. I was on the back straight after turns five and six coming up fast on this Speed Touring AWD turbo Audi. I was right on his ass at turn nine, a slow and hard right handed button hook, when water from the expansion tank began pumping out onto the windshield. “CRAP!!” I finished the road course and went directly to the garage.

We jacked the front end of the car up and I noticed a huge puddle under the car and it wasn’t water… it was tranny fluid. Tom hustled down there and discovered two holes the size of his pinky finger in the tranny case. I have no idea how it happened, or even if it’s external or internal. Our weekend was over.

At the end of the race at least a dozen people came over to see what happened to the car. All their comments were, “Man that car is fast!”

It could have been a great weekend

 

[Greg Collier]

Historic racecars and more...

 

[Quasimondo]

Bummer that you had to cut the race short due to a bum gearbox. What's your plan of attack from here?

 

[Greg Collier]

We're pulling the engine and tranny this weekend. The motor is going to Chicago for a head check by Mitch of Engintecs. As far as the tranny, if it's only the casing that's bad we'll fix it locally... if it's more then that it'll go back to Ohio for a rebuild by John Shepherd.

 

[eclipse2via]

Sorry for the tough luck again Greg.

With all the overheating you've mentioned I've been trying to remember something from way back in the Talon Digest days. I recall there was quite a bit of discussion about the water pump cavitating above approximately 6k rpm.

I like the pics of the Devin and the Toyota. I remember Juan Fangio really ripping up Laguna Seca in that Eagle. IMSA really tried to push it down with regs but when all the other factory teams disappeared that car proved it's worth.

 

[andymoraitis]

I was reading this with the hope that you'd finally had a positive result this season. I know you've had setback after setback, but if there's any silver lining it's the fact that you have a damn fast race car.

Keep your chin up Greg. We're all rooting for you.

 

[tstkl]

thats the last straw... I think I finally am just going to have to say it....

God hates dsm's....

weather it be their physics breaking ability to go fast with little cash, or their ability to be the "number one selling import over the last 15 years" and still be a great performing car, I dunno.

This season just wasn't the one. Sometimes its better to take a step back, enjoy the scenery, and triple check everything over the long, bitter winter. Although there isn't much more you can do than send the tranny to shep and the engine to mitch. Taking your time is the smart thing to do, and I think you'll find it will pay off.

something tells me you already got at that though, but why specifically the head? Are you just worried about water getting on the timing belt and skipping the valves or what? I would think a leaky tranny would cause anything BUT a damaged head.

 

[Greg Collier]

eclipse2via Sorry for the tough luck again Greg.
With all the overheating you've mentioned I've been trying to remember something from way back in the Talon Digest days. I recall there was quite a bit of discussion about the water pump cavitating above approximately 6k rpm.

We've replaced the water pump twice. At this point we figure that I've overheated the engine so many times that I probably warped the head.

andymoraitis I was reading this with the hope that you'd finally had a positive result this season. I know you've had setback after setback, but if there's any silver lining it's the fact that you have a damn fast race car.
Keep your chin up Greg. We're all rooting for you.

Thanks Andy. With every change how large or small there's always a new learning curve. But that's what racing is all about...

tstkl something tells me you already got at that though, but why specifically the head? Are you just worried about water getting on the timing belt and skipping the valves or what? I would think a leaky tranny would cause anything BUT a damaged head.

Mitch thinks that if the head was warped (especially at high temps) pressures at high boost are acting like a turbo water pump, pumping the system dry.

 

[SBstar]

Man Greg, you've had this string of bad luck all season haven't you...I was excited to see another diary write-up though, again great job keeping me on the edge of my seat. That car of yours is definately setup to move though, hopefully you'll get these bugs figured out and get back to kicking some butt out there. As always great pictures as well. Good luck we're rooting for ya.

 

[Ludachris]

Damn Greg, you can't catch a break this season. Hopefully this all comes down to working the bugs out for a clean title run next season. You've got the power to compete with anything out there now. It's just a matter of putting it all together and getting some practice in without having to deal with that damned cooling issue. I'm sure Mitch will be able to help out.

As you've seen already, we're all behind you.

 

[JOEY A]

Im always looking forward to hear from your events, I hope everything gets sorted out, you bring alot to our community.

 

[stealthTT]

Another beautifully written race report. I just wish the story would've had a happy ending. I dug up the info on the 3000GT guy that had similar problems. Incidentally, this guy was the first to power a Mitsubishi into the 10's. He did it with a 3000GT on slightly upgraded stock turbos and small shot of nitrous about a month before the first dsm hit 10's. He also likes to road race and he's pioneered a lot of the way for those of us who follow in his wake. His problem was solved after the electric pusher pump, rad. cap on the low pressure side before the electric pump, and an extractor vent in the hood. I hope a pusher pump is all you need to remove this achilles heal.

Here is the link to the discussion:
http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=248374&page=1&pp=10

Here is an excerpt from one of his posts in that thread:

Some 3S cars have significant overheating problems; especially on roadcourse driving, some cars (but not all) seem to overheat, somtimes for no apparent reason--my car included so I've been privately trying to science out answers and solutions. Since Gus in Hawaii with 18G car is having the same issues and contacted me, I wrote some stuff about it and am posting this to public tech forum to try to eventually advance the science and find SOLUTIONS to this 3S issue.

Here are some of my observations so far (copy of letter to Stewart Components I posted, trying to confirm some things etc)
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/cg...=tech;action=display;num=1098894984;start=0#0

(Note, I tested for bad headgasket with chemical tester to find combustion gases in the coolant system, and it says I DON'T have a bad headgasket...and this has happened on different motors for me).
-------------------------------
My engine overheats on roadcourse racing at high rpm--1994 Mitsubishi 3000GTVR4 twinturbo 3 liter V6; iron block, aluminum heads, stock mechanical waterpump driven off cam belt.

It stays perfectly cool at 185-195F...until after racing it a short while the needle suddenly SHOOTS up FAST, PAST REDZONE, starts pushing out fluid/steam past radiator cap, and can't cool it down. Back in pits, it only takes HALF A GALLON of fluid to top it off! So NO WAY it heated up 2+ gallons from 190F to 240F in like 15 seconds...the temp sensor (after heads, in return line) MUST be seeing STEAM and waterflow must be minimal, like the pump is steam-locked--yet the engine is going fine/fast. The heatercore (on MAX inside car!) pushes COLD air, so again LITTLE/NO WATERFLOW seems to be happening! Have been trying to solve for 2+ years...

1) I replaced stock top-to-bottom-flow radiator with bigger dualpass aluminum (I NOW know crossflow WITHOUT dualpass is better, but that would've put waterpipe top on wrong side too).
2) Replaced small fans with giant Flexalite dual fans with full shrouding, 4600cfm airflow!
3) Tried removing thermostat, no help (turns out it's probably better with it IN, as it OPENS, it CLOSES OFF the "crossover intermix hole" so ALL water comes from radiator, none recirculates from heads to waterpump inlet once thermostat open)
4) Reading your werbsite, I see that my stock radiator cap located on top of engine is on OUTLET side/AFTER the heads, sitting above the hose that takes outlet HOT water back to the radiator. This means it sees backpressure created by the radiator, not just steam pressure.

I would like to put the radiator cap on the SUCTION side, the LOWER hose which goes up to the same aluminum fitting that houses the current radiator cap...but the only way to do it would be to put a plain "pipe" Tee'd into the lower hose sticking straight up, with a radiator cap on top of it. Would look kinda funny but...would that WORK and be BETTER?

5) I have your Stewart/EMP electric pusher pump and plan to install that down at the bottom of the radiator, thinking that maybe the main pump is "sucking air"/losing prime for some reason, causing hotspots and boiling MORE like dominoes falling. With the electric pusher, that should help flow at mid rpm's and maybe keep it primed at high rpm's where the problem mainly occurs. I will try putting a "T" pipe upward with a radiator cap on top of it, directly before the electric pump, and block off the stock cap location AFTER the heads...

Does this sound good? What ELSE should I do?
I am a little worried it MIGHT be blown headgasket, but it has overheated this way on different motors for me, and others with our cars have this problem sometimes too.
-----------------------------------------
Here is Stewart Components website for the pump I have:
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ElectPump

Here is the EMP website, who actually make the pump for Stewart (they have other versions for other industries)
http://www.emp-corp.com/html/products/advanced/thermal_mgmt/electric_water_pump.htm

Here is Stewart's Tech Tip on radiator cap location importance (note that last bold line--OURS is exactly WRONG according to this, and our cars do EXACTLY THIS!):
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tech Tip #2 - Radiator Caps
Radiator Caps
In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.

The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.

Radiator Cap Location
The radiator cap should always be located at the highest point of the cooling system, and on the low pressure side (after the radiator core).Cross flow radiators mounted higher than the engine are ideal because the cap is on the tank that is connected to the water pump inlet. This configuration offers 3 advantages:
1. The cap is at the highest point of the system, allowing any air to migrate to the area just below the cap. In the event the cap vents due to excessive pressure, the air will escape first.
2. This area has the lowest velocity within the system, allowing air to separate from coolant even at high engine RPM.
3. The cap is located on the low pressure (suction) side of the system, so it is unaffected by the pressure generated by the water pump.

For cooling systems NOT using a cross flow radiator, mounted higher than the engine, you must use a surge tank. A surge tank is typically a 1 quart tank mounted at the highest point of the system, with the radiator cap on top. The bottom of the tank is connected to the inlet side of the water pump with a 1/2" or 3/4" line. A 1/4" to 3/8" "bleed" line from the side of the surge tank is connected to the highest point of the low pressure side of the radiator. The bleed line allows some circulation through the tank while the engine is running. The surge tank is also large enough to allow the air to separate as the coolant flows through it. Air in the system will then migrate to the area just below the radiator cap, again so that it will forced out first if system pressure exceeds the radiator cap's rating.
In street car applications, an upright radiator (top and bottom tanks, with the cap on the top tank) represents a compromise that will work, as long as the car is not operated at sustained high RPM, like those seen in racing.

Any aftermarket thermostat housing that mounts the radiator cap directly above the thermostat location, or that mount the radiator cap in the top coolant hose, are NOT recommended. Both of those housing styles are poorly designed, and will push coolant out of the cap at high RPM.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
As Forrest had said in his NA car on roadcourse, it seems more rpm dependent than power dependent, because his car wouldn't overheat if kept under 5500rpm, but WOULD overheat/boil/push fluid out the cap if taken OVER 5500rpm...and in a NA car he isn't making much hp at all really so this really points to a waterflow/rpm/pump vaporlock issue of some kind.

In Summary:
I am hoping that by keeping the pump primed/not vaporlocking via the electric pusher pump (along with more waterflow at low/mid rpm's), the radiator cap relocation, the TRD 23psi radiator cap I now have on the car, as well as a vented hood to get airflow more efficiently at high speeds (though I no longer think the airflow/radiator are the primary issues, I am trying to optimize what I can) that the car will stay cool. As to WHY some rebuilt 3S engines, AND some stock 3S cars, overheat while others don't it is still a bit mysterious. I would like to take apart the waterpump of a stock car and an overheating one, as one wonders if the Mitsu REPLACEMENT pumps have smaller impellers or larger tolerances blade-to-pumphousing so less efficient...doubt it but this sure is puzzling. It may be our pump/prime situation have little safety margin, and 1 or 2 more "straws on the camel's back" of ANY sort make it follow the COMMON MAIN PATHWAY I postulate:

Pushing fluid/pressure out radiatorcap-->lower waterflow--->more steam in heads--->steamlock of waterpump--->NO waterflow--->MASSIVE overheating.

Hope this (eventually) helps,
Jack Tertadian
Battleship Mitsubishi, Running Hot At High Shaft RPM's

 

[Zero Bar]

Thats just rediculous!! Just wait until you get all the bugs worked out Greg, you will be owning them all out there!!

 

[Turbo Shogun]

Damn dude, looks like you were really tearin' it up out there. Sucks you had to pit in!

So have you figured out what punched those holes in your transfer case? Kind of sounds like road debris, unless something the x-fer case gave out.

This is why I opted to have an extra one in the garage.

 

[Greg Collier]

SBstar Man Greg, you've had this string of bad luck all season haven't you...I was excited to see another diary write-up though, again great job keeping me on the edge of my seat. That car of yours is definately setup to move though, hopefully you'll get these bugs figured out and get back to kicking some butt out there. As always great pictures as well. Good luck we're rooting for ya.

Thanks for your continued rooting. It's getting hard writting these commentaries with the bad endings...

Ludachris Damn Greg, you can't catch a break this season. Hopefully this all comes down to working the bugs out for a clean title run next season. You've got the power to compete with anything out there now. It's just a matter of putting it all together and getting some practice in without having to deal with that damned cooling issue. I'm sure Mitch will be able to help out.
As you've seen already, we're all behind you.

Yeah Chris, it's been pretty frustrating but you've got to keep a stiff upper lip. I think my upper lip is frozen at this point. Like I've said it's all about the learning curve and taking baby steps forward. Mitch has been awesome throughout all my ordeals and I just feel sorry that I've had to put him through it!

JOEY A Im always looking forward to hear from your events, I hope everything gets sorted out, you bring alot to our community.

I'm glad you're reading them... and "we'll gether done!"

stealthTT Another beautifully written race report. I just wish the story would've had a happy ending. I dug up the info on the 3000GT guy that had similar problems.

Man, that's a lot of really good information. I truly appreciate all your time and energy!

Zero Bar Thats just rediculous!! Just wait until you get all the bugs worked out Greg, you will be owning them all out there!!

I have to admit is was pretty cool passing everybody. The looks in their eyes said it all

Turbo Shogun Damn dude, looks like you were really tearin' it up out there. Sucks you had to pit in!
So have you figured out what punched those holes in your transfer case? Kind of sounds like road debris, unless something the x-fer case gave out.

I'm pulling the motor and tranny this afternoon so as soon as we find out what happened I'll let you know.

 

[Slow old poop]

Thanks for your continued rooting. It's getting hard writting these commentaries with the bad endings...

I know the feeling.

My problems are trivial compared to yours, but I still get an event-ender just about every time out.

This last time at Autobahn, we spung a leak in the oil pan. Apparently, when we broke the ear off the motor and the tranny slipped (two events ago), the halfshaft cut into the oil pan. It wasn't enough to notice at the time, but it got worse and finally split big time last weekend.

*sigh* I'll pull the pan tomorrow and see what's up. We got three weeks before the NASA event at Road America. Should be fixable.

Is anybody campaigning a DSM SUCCESSFULLY out there?
Somebody please tell me that when we get all the little bugs out, the car will be reliable. Somebody? Anybody?

Rich

 

[Greg Collier]

Hey Rich, it does get better...

I removed the tranny and engine yesterday and today. The tranny (see photo below) has casing fragments going out just below the LSD so it's definitely a tranny problem and not road debris. It'll get packed tomorrow for its trip to Ohio to see its builder John Shepherd. The motor is also on its crate base and with is going to Chicago to see its father Mitch...

 

[andymoraitis]

Please keep us updated on how things work out and what Mitch and John say. I just want you to have one great day out there.

 

[Slow old poop]

Hey Rich, it does get better... ..

Gawd, I hope so.

Like you, I have a killer car that really runs great...when it runs. We haven't had a successful-enough day to crank the boost beyond 15 psi yet. We ran it at 15 psi last weekend for the first time, and it was a-smokin'!! If we can ever get it to run at 20 psi reliably, I think it'll run with any TTB car in the Midwest.

Rich

 

[Zero Bar]

Is anybody campaigning a DSM SUCCESSFULLY out there?
Somebody please tell me that when we get all the little bugs out, the car will be reliable. Somebody? Anybody?

Rich

Rich, its not the same as road racing but locally I have a good shot at winning my class in autox this year. 77 more points or more and my smurf car will bring home a trophy!!

I guess being n/a helps as I don't have enough power to break anything, then again on the road course most any car would swallow me up for the lack of power.

Yes it does get better eventually, just it always takes more time than we like it to!!

 

[DROOPY209]

Rich, its not the same as road racing but locally I have a good shot at winning my class in autox this year. 77 more points or more and my smurf car will bring home a trophy!!

I guess being n/a helps as I don't have enough power to break anything, then again on the road course most any car would swallow me up for the lack of power.

What cars do you compete against in AutoX?
are u in a stock class?

 

[2gGSX]

Green, green, green, I powered from 2nd to 3rd gear. I took a high line toward turn one and immediately passed eight cars. I shot down the track toward the apex of the two increasing my momentum by two fold. I could see the cars in front of taking a wide entry into turn three onto the road course. Their tires were billowing smoke and I knew I had the braking power to take me through the inside of the turn. I set my course and went for it. The car responded like an F-15 as I gave just enough brake pressure to set me up for the quick and hard left right turns. I passed another five cars.

If there was one race I wish would have worked out for you, it would probably have been this. Hell, and that was only qualifying!

 

[Zero Bar]

What cars do you compete against in AutoX?
are u in a stock class?

The cars in my class consist of an 86 Civic that will be running at nationals, a nationally competitive crx also but they don't run locally at every event. Also another crx that is lightly built and a rabbit.

I've won 3 events when the national cars were not there, the one crx i am competitive with and the rabbit is about 1 sec behind me in lap times. If I do win it will be on points, the 2 national cars are on average 4 secs faster a lap than me!!

I run in the E Prepared class, it allows for extensive modifications. Some of the only limits are wheel width of 7", minimum weight of 1.05lbs/per cc, stock block(i.e. no engine swaps) and the firwall must remain mostly intact. I could cut the roof off my car if I like to.

 

[Greg Collier]

If there was one race I wish would have worked out for you, it would probably have been this. Hell, and that was only qualifying!

A victory would have been sweet for sure. The suspension and tires at this point are so dialed in it's crazy. And now the power is there to take on just about anything they can throw my way!

It was pretty cool seeing Tom's big smile when I pulled into the garage. He started to laugh and said, "Did you see how many cars you passed out there?"

 

[Zero Bar]

It was pretty cool seeing Tom's big smile when I pulled into the garage. He started to laugh and said, "Did you see how many cars you passed out there?"

I love the fact that most people still think our cars are drag cars only!! Show them how it's done Greg!!